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Europe by Eurail

July - August 2022
A 47-day adventure by S Read more
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  • TravelerEurope by Eurail
    Day 5

    Heidelberg

    July 17, 2022 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We found a beer and food festival in the town, with lovely musical accompaniment froma chap singing 'Lola' on his guitar to a full African-style choir. Crossing the Old Bridge over the river, we climbed nearly 200 steps to the Philosophers Way, before heading to the station to train back to Mannheim. By the afternoon the temperature was sweltering!

    In Mannheim, we wandered to Luisenpark to see the Chinese Pagoda, without realising that it was a part of a huge, fenced-off park with payable entrance, and we circumnavigated almost the whole park before we found out! So tired and hot, we grabbed a tram back to the hotel.

    Beer Index (Heidelberg) - €5.00/0.5l    Read more

  • TravelerEurope by Eurail
    Day 6

    Strasbourg

    July 18, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    The train was Mannheim to Strasbourg was a bit of a journey. The first 50 minutes was to Offenburg which was fine. But we were 5 minutes delayed in to Offenburg for a six minute changeover...they delayed the second train to allow for this, but almost our entire train (which was huge) sprinted for the same train as us which was just three carriages. So the jounrey to Strasbourg was rather cramped!

    Strasbourg was stunning. It looked like a Christmas card (but in mid-30° heat), with beautiful timbered houses lining rambling streets and canals. The city was heaving with tourists though. We popped into the cathedral to see the astronomical clock, before just taking a wander though the old quarter. We found a spare table at a bar on the canal and stopped for a beer or three.

    After a siesta out of the mad afternoon heat, we wandered back into the old quarter and were treated to D'original Bloos Musik brass band for an hour in the town Square as the sun went down and the temperature finally dropped.    Read more

  • TravelerEurope by Eurail
    Day 7

    EU/ECHR in Strasbourg

    July 19, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Knowing temperatures were going to be bonkers today, we got up early, grabbed a quick breakfast then headed to the automatic Velhop terminal to rent a bike. We rode through the cobbled streets (and through a cooling fountain!), and onto the UNESCO Neustadt and then the parliamentary quarter, home to the EU Parliament, the Council of Europe and the ECHR. Northwards, we rode on to the Robertsau Forest and hide from the rising sun under the canopy of trees. We returned the bikes in the early afternoon to avoid the hottest part of of the day, and had a quick, restorative beer before grabbing a bargain lunch from a patisserie and decamped to the hotel out of the heat!

    Beer Index (Strasbourg) - €6/0.5l    Read more

  • TravelerEurope by Eurail
    Day 8

    Titesee

    July 20, 2022 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    From Strasbourg, we journeyed to Titisee, via Freiburg where we dropped our luggage. Titisee lake is at 840m above sea level surrounded by the beautiful trees of the Black Forest. The journey there took in numerous tree-covered valleys and was spectacular in itself. The town itself was a bit like a British seaside town - kitsch tat shops, hotels and bars galore.

    At the lake, we found a shady spot for lunch, before going for a brief splodge in the water! Walking around the north shore of the lake, it started to rain so we took the only reasonable decision and stopped for a pint.

    Beer Index Titisee - €5.50/0.5l    Read more

  • TravelerEurope by Eurail
    Day 8

    Hinterzarten, Pikenfelsen

    July 20, 2022 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Just 4 minutes by train, we stopped of at Hinterzarten. It looked to have some interesting sites of a gorge, a viaduct and some monuments, so we plotted a route and put on our hiking legs. And it was absolutely superb.

    The Black Forest itself was about half hour walk from the station, and from here we climbed up through the towering pines aiming for Pikenfelsen at 1040m. It was cooler than yesterday at around 28° and whilst it was hot in the sun, the trees lent shade and there was a welcome breeze. En route, we stopped at Berend's Bankje (Berend's bench) which gave us a sneak preview of the view from the top.

    The view at Pikenfelsen was unbelievable and very peaceful. The view point had some well-shaded benches and a beautiful lookout point (albeit on the other side of the fence!).

    From here, we traversed down the hill in the Ravenna Gorge through a series of steep, narrow switchbacks, flight led us far lower than our starting point. These brought us to the Ravenna viaduct, an almost 60m high train bridge through the gorge, rebuilt after destruction in WWII. We followed the Ravenna back up (bloody stairs!) passed a beautiful waterfall and an old watermill.

    Exiting the valley, and walking back to Hinterzarten town for a well deserved pint after 3 1/2 hours of hiking!

    Beer Index (Hinterzarten) - €5/0.5l    Read more

  • TravelerEurope by Eurail
    Day 9

    St. Ottilien, Freiburg

    July 21, 2022 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Our first full day in Freiburg promised more hiking (the reason we stayed here!). We got up early, and ventured to the marketplace around Freiburg Münster for a traditional lange rote for breakfast (a big sausage in a bun!). The funicular railway then took us half way up to the Schlossbergturm - the remaining half was sodding steep! This huge 50-odd metre tower on top of the hills of Freiburg give an astounding view of the Black Forest.

    From here, we walked away from the city, through the towering trees on wonderfully marked and shady paths, racking up over 15km by the time we were done. We walked up (the whole day, we walked up...how?!) to St Wendolin's Chapel, a tiny chapel kilometres above the city, and then down to St Ottilien's, which was both a chapel and a cafe and allowed us to have a well deserved pint before heading back to the city. We clearly timed it well, as the funicular was very busy as we passed by at 1pm, but had been empty when we took it a little before 9am.    Read more

  • TravelerEurope by Eurail
    Day 9

    Freiberg

    July 21, 2022 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    After a chance to put our feet up, we wandered out into Freiburg. We ended up mostly shoe-shopping for B who broke both his walking shoes and his action sandals on the same day! The river was awash with people paddling in the stepped pools that ran down it, making it a super site to cool off in the 38° heat. We, however, went to the Ganter bar on the plaza around the cathedral and ordered a metre of beer! We were treated to the lovely church bells, an accordionist and a cellist during our drinks, before retiring to plan the next fews days.

    Beer Index (Freiburg) - €4.90/0.5l (including a flight)    Read more

  • TravelerEurope by Eurail
    Day 10

    Bern

    July 22, 2022 in Switzerland ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    The journey from Freiburg to Bern was a 2hr hop, changing in Basel. Mercifully the train we needed to change on to was on the adjoining platform as we only had 8 minutes for the change and our first train was 6 minutes late! We had enough time to change trains and sit down before the second train left.

    In Bern, the first tram we got ended up going the wrong way due to roadworks, so we ended up having to get a bus - however, it was all very simple, and free with your hotel reservation!

    We wandered the old centre under the baking midday heat, taking in the Einstein Haus, Parliament and beautiful streets and statues throughout. The Aare River is a beautiful colour with lots of people drifting down the fast current...something we may try if we have time! Next to the river is the Barengraben, or bear pits, which has apparently housed bears for since 1857.    Read more

  • TravelerEurope by Eurail
    Day 10

    Gurten

    July 22, 2022 in Switzerland ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We grabbed lunch at the Äss Bar, one of the many cellared shops/bars that exist in the old town of Bern - and the choice at this bakery/cakery was superb. With picnic in hand, we trammed to the Gurten funicular and travelled over 100m above the city of Bern for lunch. The heat even at height was stifling, easily in the mid-30s, but the view was spectacular. Even better, we climbed the Aussichtsturm, a spiral-staircased tower for a view as far as the Eiger as well as over the town.Read more

  • TravelerEurope by Eurail
    Day 10

    River Aare

    July 22, 2022 in Switzerland ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    After a brief bit of respite in the hotel, we decided to do as the locals do and drift/swim down the River Aare. The severe river meander creates the boundaries of the old town and allowed you to float along sublime sights and bridges. Alas, our dry bag, Bob, had apparently developed a slow puncture so we had to purchase another one in town. The river was initially a bit chilly but once in it was superb. The flow was pretty impressive, and so long as you can float its a relatively simple float along the river with lots of other people. We hopped out before the Lorraine Baths, dried off and headed into town to experience the locals beers.

    Bern has a great craft beer scene. We stopped at the Alte Tram Depot, with glorious views over the old town, and then OnTap before decamping to a bar more local to our hotel. On the walk home, we were treated to an impromptu street gig by The Live Jukebox, with an incredible singing voice before a huge lightning storm took over the night sky.

    Beer Index (Bern) - 8.18 CHF/0.5l    Read more

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