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Europe by Eurail

juli - august 2022
Et 47-dagers eventyr av S Les mer
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  • ReisendeEurope by Eurail
    Dag 11

    Hiking in Zermatt

    23. juli 2022, Sveits ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Up early, we got the 7.34 from Bern to Zermatt via Visp to go hiking in the shadow of the Matterhorn. The two hour journey out went by in a flash, as the view was beautiful, even from Bern, and got more grandiose as we travelled. Changing in Visp after an hour put us at the mouth of the valley and the train journey though it had astonishing high peaks, glaciers and waterfalls as we travelled to Zermatt at 1600m.

    This winter ski resort was heaving with summer hikers, and well resourced. We grabbed a coffee to plan for the day before setting off to Furi at 1859m. With a view of the Matterhorn ahead and the stunning valley below, it is difficult to capture the beauty of the region. At Furi, we hiked to Zmutt, a dammed lake at 1977m where we grabbed a light lunch of croissants (bought in Bern station) surrounded by a panorama of fantastic views. Doubling back, we went to the 100m-long suspension bridge above Furi before finding the Moos path back to Zermatt. Regardless of where we were, we had a view of the Matterhorn all day and a number of huge looming glaciers.

    Across the course of the day we managed to walk 20km in beautiful weather (such that we were rather sunburnt on our return!), although not as unbearably hot as the Black Forest. We stopped in town to celebrate our hike with a beer and grabbed dinner from the wonderful Fuchs bakery including a fabulous sachertorte and Heidelbeer torte.

    The train journey back was even more spectacular due to the old-style train carriage which had huge drop windows, allowing us to see properly out of the train (to the annoyance of a couple who wanted *all* the windows closed on the non-air conditioned carriage - the view was just too good to miss to do that!).

    We had considered both the Glacier Express and getting a cable car at Zermatt - on reflection we were glad we did neither as the hike was just superb, and all the journeys today were included in our rail pass.

    Beer Index (Zermatt) - 9 CHF/0.5l    Les mer

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  • ReisendeEurope by Eurail
    Dag 12

    Zurich

    24. juli 2022, Sveits ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Grabbing an early train, we headed for breakfast in Zurich. We planned a stopover here for about 3.5 hours before heading on to Innsbruck. The continental breakfast at Cafe au Conditorei was lovely, and we were treated to Sunday morning bells from the nearby cathedral as we ate.

    We walked around the old town and down to Lake Obersee - both the lake and the Limmat River that ran through Zurich to it were incredibly clear and an iridescent blue under the sunshine. Back up the Bahnhofstrass, which seemed to be the Swiss equivalent of Regent/Bond St, we headed to the Platzspitz Park to sit in the shade next to the river before retrieving our luggage and heading on the 12.40 to Innsbruck.

    Despite the length of the train, it was packed with lots of reserved seats so it was a bit of a challenge to get seated. But we're on our way to Austria!

    Beer Index (Zurich) - N/A    Les mer

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  • ReisendeEurope by Eurail
    Dag 12

    Innsbruck

    24. juli 2022, Østerrike ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    The line between Zurich and Innsbruck (via Bludenz) is absolutely stunning. The train wends through a valley of peaks and rolling fields dotted with houses for the best part of 4 hours.

    After dropping our kit at the hotel in Innsbruck we went to see the old town. Before we even got there, B saw someone in a US Marine Corps Band 'Crew' t-shirt, and a bit of Googling told us they were indeed in town. We picked up a €5 ticket for this evening!

    The town of Innsbruck feels utterly surrounded by mountains and it is beautiful. Over dinner, we ate outside next to the river, overlooking pastel-coloured houses, all frame by jagged peaks. The old town is similarly beautiful, with quirky alleyway ways and wonderful architecture everywhere.

    The Marine Corps Band was playing in the Inner Court Yard of the Hofburg (imperial palace). With only three rows of unticketed seating, we ended up standing for over two hours but the band, and the setting, were just superb.    Les mer

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  • ReisendeEurope by Eurail
    Dag 13

    Top of Innsbruck

    25. juli 2022, Østerrike ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    After a clammy night sleep in the heat, and a fabulous (included) breakfast, we took an early walk to the funicular and cable car to the Top of Innsbruck, at over 2,500m.

    The view from the top was absolutely spectacular. The Limestone Alps surround Innsbruck and are apparently a huge winter skiing destination, but we were able to enjoy a bit of hiking to the peak, incredible vistas and beautiful alpine flowers.

    At the top, there was a Geo-Trail explaining the formation of the mountains and a number of view points across different valleys. It also had a cafe, so after scrambling back across a sort-of-path, and up to various peaks for photos, we grabbed a pint! At the Seegrube cable station (the stop below), we walked to the first stop on the Perspektivweg (Perspective Way) before retreating from the increasing heat. Alas, we didn't leave early enough as my spectacular sunburn would attest.

    Back in Innsbruck, we had a pint on the rooftop of the Rathaus with glorious views of the mountains before grabbing our kit and heading to the station. The train was absolutely packed and we ended up standing in a corridor to Munich. By the time we arrived (half hour late due to a police incident on the train), it was over 35° in Munich and unbearable. So we bussed to the hotel, grabbed some sushi and beer from the supermarket next door, and spent an evening in relaxing, applying a lot of aftersun and watching a phenomenal lightning storm over the whole of Munich.

    Beer Index (Innsbruck) - €5.33/0.5l    Les mer

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  • ReisendeEurope by Eurail
    Dag 14

    Munich

    26. juli 2022, Tyskland ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Our first full day in Munich began with clouds and rain - the first we'd really seen. We hopped on a tram into the city centre and wandered around some of the sights, including the Odeonplatz where the failed Nazi coup, the Munich Putsch, ended in 1923. At the Neues Rathaus, we ate a huge breakfast including Munich white sausages, as the rain poured around us.

    The walk the the Deutsches Museum was equally soggy, and we had to queue in the rain for about half an hour for a ticket. However the museum itself was amazing, and B was in his element at the physics interactive displays (as well as engineering, flying, maths, etc.). We spent a good three hours before our brains were too full to stay.

    So we spent the rest of the afternoon touring the beerhouses of Munich - the HofBrauHaus (including some German musical accompaniment), Augustiner and Tegernseer Tal. The Hofbrauhaus was the most touristy (and well known) and was a heaving thoroughfare; the other two were rather more pleasant!    Les mer

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  • ReisendeEurope by Eurail
    Dag 15

    Dachau

    27. juli 2022, Tyskland ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    A hard day today - at Dachau Concentration Camp. It was a brilliantly assembled exhibition and memorial but a harrowing site to visit. Some of the site was reconstruction but it would be hard to know that without the presented information. In the prisoners camp, through a (replica) gate which says 'Arbeit Macht Frei', the maintenance building housed an exhibition from the end of WWI to the opening of Dachau, and then on explaining how Dachau was used, grew and changed over time before liberation on 29 April 1945, and the ensuing Dachau trials.

    Beyond the reconstructed barrack blocks, there were Protestant, Catholic and Jewish memorials. At the crematorium, it was difficult to walk past the ovens and through the gas chamber (which wasn't used en masse in the way it was at other camps, but still). The gardens surrounding the crematorium had been made into memorials for the ashes that had been deposited in them.

    We followed the Path of Remembrance back to Dachau town, this was the 3km route many prisoners were forced to walk to the camp.    Les mer

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  • ReisendeEurope by Eurail
    Dag 15

    Mullersches Volksbad

    27. juli 2022, Tyskland ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We briefly visited the town of Dachau, including the lovely castle and gardens, before returning to Munich. We grabbed our swimming kit and headed to the public baths - a collection of pools completed in 1901 in a stunning baroque/art nouveau building. To swim for 90 minutes was just €3.50 and was fabulous surrounded by beautiful wrought-iron bannisters, fabulous carvings and paintings, and all surrounded by cabins and tiles that kept the original design alive.

    Beer Index (Munich) - €5.0/0.5l    Les mer

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  • ReisendeEurope by Eurail
    Dag 16

    Into Vienna

    28. juli 2022, Østerrike ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    A 4 hour train journey saw us into Vienna in the early afternoon. Walking from the main train station, the whole city is full of beautiful architecture, especially the old town. But far more Baroque than the medieval-type architecture we saw in so many places through the length of the Rhine.

    In the baking heat, we passed numerous intricate churches, palaces, and museums to the Austrian Parlament and the New Rathaus. At the latter, a film festival was taking place through the summer and had a plethora of food and drink stalls on the plaza. So we tried a Korean sausage dog and had a Radler, before decamping to a nearby bar. On the way home we passed a building with plaques on commemorating people who were killed there by the Nazis in the Ministry of 'Justice'.    Les mer

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  • ReisendeEurope by Eurail
    Dag 17

    A day in Vienna

    29. juli 2022, Østerrike ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We grabbed breakfast from a local bakery and ate on the lawn of the Maria-Therese Platz, between the beautiful and world-renowned Natural History Museum and the Museum of Art. The NHM was incredible - each room was dedicated to something different (rocks, meteorites, dinosaurs, mammals, humans, etc.) but the rooms themselves were incredibly innate, decorated with gilded stucco and oil paintings. B was as excited by the rocks and I was by the dinosaurs!

    The combiticket also gave us access to the Anatomical Pathological Museum. This former Lunatic Tower was circular and in each of the rooms circling the ground floor was a display on a different type of disease with specimen jars collected mostly in Vienna hospitals. It was a bit odd, but absolutely fascinating and the accompanying text for each disease was superb. No photos allowed sadly. After all the walking however, we needed a pint so stopped at the kitsch Einstein cafe!

    Despite aching feet, we wandered over to the Josefplatz in hope of the final tour of Parlament of the day. Not only were we in luck, we were the only two on the tour! The guide was exceptional, and showed us around the Hofburg Palace - where Beethoven's 8th symphony was first played, the first performance of the Vienna Philharmonic took place, and cultural/social events for the Congress of Vienna happened. The Palace is where the Parlament is currently being held whilst the proper site in being renovated. We also got a sneaky look at the Lippizanner Spanish Horse Riding practice hall to boot. Absolutely brilliant, and we came away with a good knowledge of the Austrian political system.

    Rounded the day off at a microbrewery, 1516, where I tried a milkshake sour (fermented with yoghurt, and nowhere near as horrific as it sounds) whilst B tried a ''black and tan" (half dark beer, half helles) along with a cheesy black pudding.

    Beer Index (Vienna) - €5.46/0.5l    Les mer

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