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El Camino

August - October 2023
A 67-day adventure by Stewart Read more
  • 70footprints
  • 3countries
  • 67days
  • 287photos
  • 2videos
  • 1.3kmiles
  • 1.0kmiles
  • 157sea miles
  • 61miles
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  • TravelerEl Camino
    Day 7

    Hampshire

    August 18, 2023 in England ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    I set off before sunrise to make some ground before the rain arrived. Unfortunately it hit around 6am. I was walking on a busy A road with heavy traffic and I was having to jump on to the little verge there was to avoid wing mirrors or worse. So I stopped and caught a bus. The bus took me to Tidworth which wasn't nearer to my destination but it did allow to walk on paths, at least.

    The rain continued for five hours and made a right mess of my cheese sandwiches but I ate them anyway. I didn't even need to chew.

    I must admit, when I was walking around Andover's retail parks and industrial estates in driving rain, I did question myself as to why I was doing this. But now I'm sitting with a glass of London Pride pondering on the mystery of the pop up barber and it all seems worthwhile (you'll have to ask me about the barber if you're interested).    Read more

  • TravelerEl Camino
    Day 8

    Nearly at Portsmouth

    August 19, 2023 in England ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    The reality of walking...I booked into a Days Inn last night to avoid another Storm Betty soaking. What I didn't realise was that there are two in the area, seven miles apart. I booked in to one and walked to the other. I was just too tired so there were two rooms with my name on them last night.

    Today was a super long one walking across the Hampshire downs and it was all beautiful. The highlight was Winchester. The Cathedral is exquisitely decorated and houses the remains of King Canute and Jane Austen (I only learned that yesterday). The streets are pretty and the town is set in the loveliest countryside. I'm already looking forward to returning.

    Photos... Winchester Cathedral, Jane Austen's tomb, the crystal clear River Itchen, the Hospital of the Cross    Read more

  • TravelerEl Camino
    Day 9

    Flippin eck!

    August 20, 2023 in England ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    As a child, did you ever break anything that was not yours (including skin, bones and spirit)? Do you remember that feeling when you realised your mom would find out? That wide eyed paralysis? The heavy weight of doom pressing your chest? Well I had that feeling a couple of nights ago. I started reading Olly Richards' 'French Foundations: Master the Basics in two weeks'. Two weeks??? I have two days! I'm about to walk across a country and not be able to ask if I can charge my phone, or where the toilet is, or if I can have access to a lawyer. Even if I could ask I wouldn't understand the response. For me, this is so far removed from the norm that I need Google maps to find my comfort zone again. I'll let you know how it goes.

    In the mean time I'm trying to find the best pub to have my last proper pint for a few weeks. The one I just had was disappointing so I need to get on the move again.

    See you in France!    Read more

  • TravelerEl Camino
    Day 10

    Port Dinan

    August 21, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    As a foot passenger, I couldn't book a cabin on the ferry so sleep alternated between a reclining chair and the floor. In spite of that, I loved the ferry. It was great to be able to wander around such a massive vessel and the views this morning as we approached St Malo were captivating. I had to stand next to an exhaust vent to keep warm though. I definitely want to do this again.

    After getting lost a couple of times in St Malo, I managed to find and follow the Voie Verte to Port Dinan. It is a dead straight gravel path for cyclists and pedestrians only so it was nice to have a hassle free walk. People did try to talk to me now and then but I can say 'Je ne parle pas français' like a local and that generally put them off. One guy persisted and we did have a bit of a chat. I tried to speak French but he kept laughing and reverting to English which put me off a bit. Yo be fair to him, I did slip into Spanish a couple of times, and I also said 'Des Moines' when I meant three months.

    Anyway, Dinan is a very steep and old fortified town with the River Rance at its base. There are tons of photogenic streets and buildings, and plenty of bars. Everyone is wandering around glowing and dolled up for the evening so it has a genuine holiday vibe. Unfortunately all the accommodation is booked up, including camping, so I need to get walking again.

    Photos - St Malo from the ferry, Voie Verte, two pics of Dinan from low and high towns.    Read more

  • TravelerEl Camino
    Day 11

    Hédé-Bazouges

    August 22, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    I've spent the whole day walking on the Canal d'Ille-et-Rance. It was so hot I took a lie down after lunch in a picnic area. I soon dozed off only to wake up to the sound of my own snoring. Luckily the picnic area was emptied by then. Part of the reason I was so tired was that I could see the Milky Way last night so I stayed awake until the wee hours star gazing.

    Photos...one of the eleven locks at Hédé-Bazouges, the canal, last night's view from my sleeping bag, and my washing line last night. I had to redo the laundry because slugs crawled over it during the night.    Read more

  • TravelerEl Camino
    Day 12

    I met my first pilgrim!

    August 23, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    I was walking along the towpath this morning and there was a guy coming towards me wearing a scallop shell on the chest strap of his rucksack. 'Peregrino?' I asked. He ignored that I'd just spoken Spanish, smiled and replied in French. Realising I wasn't the brightest, he spoke slowly and used basic words. He told me he was walking from St Jean Pied-a-port to Mont St Michel. St Jean is on the French side of the northern Pyrenees, so he was basically doing the French leg of my route, but in reverse. He expected it to take almost sixty days. I'm hoping to do it in half that time but I didn't say. I didn't want him to think I was totally stupid. I just wished by him 'Buen Camino', shook his hand and carried on my way beaming from ear to ear after that touch of camaraderie.

    I have been walking this canal for two days now and I have only seen two boats moving on it, and one of those was a maintenance vehicle. Yet each lock has a lock keeper with their lock keeper's house. It must be a lonely occupation or maybe I'm just here at the wrong time.

    I slept on the canal bank last night. As I unpacked my bivvy bag I realised I must have packed a slug in it the previous night because it looked like a used hankie. It was gross. Then this morning I put my glasses on and discovered a slug had crawled across them! I love sleeping outside but the slugs are doing a great job of persuading me otherwise, especially after crawling over my laundry yesterday. That said, I'm indoors tonight. I have hit the suburbs of Rennes and I don't fancy towpaths in the town at night. I'm probably safe to try but I just don't think I'll sleep.

    Photos - lock (ecluse in French) and boat, the other boat, lunch, my bathroom and utility room this morning    Read more

  • TravelerEl Camino
    Day 13

    Rennes

    August 24, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    So I made it to my first French city. The route I am following doesn't go through the centre (and I was told I wasn't missing much) but it does pass quite a few high-rise buildings. The main photo is Les Horizons which was built in 1970 and has 480 apartments. I think it beats your bog standard block of flats. There are a couple of photos are just views as I walked along the river La Vilaine. The river bank has wide, open paths either side and there were lots of people taking advantage of it; walking, running, cycling, fishing. It had a nice vibe in spite of its urban backdrop.

    Last night I had blister problems. The ball of my right foot was so bad that I was tending to use the outside of my foot instead of the sole. I took advice and finally managed to sort it last night. I'm not going to do many miles today. I want to rest the foot and keep it clean as tomorrow is the start of the path to Nantes. The last photo is my feet getting TLC by one of the lakes to the south west of Rennes.    Read more

  • TravelerEl Camino
    Day 14

    A day of firsts

    August 25, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Most of today was walking along the beautiful river valley of La Vilaine.

    It was also a day of firsts....

    I saw my first ever live snake in the wild (it was small and dark brown an hid itself away before I could take a photo);

    I saw my first gecko of the trip and as soon as you see one you see lots;

    I saw my first grotto of the walk in a lovely village called Saint Senoux;

    I got done for shoplifting for the first time in my life. I bought some food from the supermarket, ate some of it outside and then went back in to get water. As I paid for the water the assistant spotted I had a bag with food in. I tried to explain I had already paid but she was having none of it and called for assistance. I told the guy that turned up that the lady who first served me would remember me as I had made a hash of using the self service. When he asked me what she looked like I could only remember she was old like me. He disappeared for a few mins and returned with the lady, thank god. She vouched for me but the original assistant insisted I empty my rucksack. It was a bit humiliating getting all my stuff out in the middle of the checkouts but after she was satisfied I hadn't stolen anything I was warned to not come to the shop with a rucksack again. The worst thing about it was I didn't need the water because I found a tap soon afterwards. On the plus said it was amazing how much French I remembered all of a sudden.

    Photos - La Vilaine with Weir and lock, lake with clouds, the wonderful church of Saint Senoux, grotto, church at St Malo de Philly

    St Malo de Philly is dead. For some reason my route passes through there, and it is one hell of a climb, but there is nothing there except a few houses, a church and a bar. The bar was locked with a sign outside saying "This is no longer a bar"!    Read more

  • TravelerEl Camino
    Day 15

    The day ended well

    August 26, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Oh dear! It's my own fault. I should have thought this through. I wake up and it's freezing cold. I had gained quite a bit of height since leaving the river and higher means colder. I found a place to sleep in a forest so it is dark as well as cold. I motivate myself out of my sleeping bag by promising myself a treat at the boulangerie. A warm croissant or two. That gets me walking. However, on reaching the nearest village (after three hours!) it farms on me that it's Sunday. Everything is closed. I've seen three churches and even they were closed! The only thing I could find open were the public toilets. So at least I had water, thank god. I rehydrated my sachets of Ainsley's roasted vegetables cous cous for breakfast and lunch. Yum yum.
    Super fortunately, I have since found a bar that serves beer, coffee and ice cream only. I gave the ice cream a miss but I recommend the other two!

    Photos - pilgrim statue in Blain, austere church in Blain, funky Le Gave church tower, first 'official' sign post to Santiago, 1,567km to go!

    St James is St Jacques in French and Santiago in Spanish. I'm (hopefully) heading to Fisterra, the most westerly point in Spain, but on the way I pass through Santiago de Compostela (Sp), or St Jacques de Compestelle(Fr). Fisterra is approximately three days from Santiago.    Read more

  • TravelerEl Camino
    Day 15

    Au revoir La Vilaine

    August 26, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    So after two days or so I have to say goodbye to the imposing majesty of La Vilaine. This river has a view at every bend. It is beautiful and it is massive. You can sense the force of the volume of water it holds when you walk past the cliffs it has carved out. They are sheer. It's a shame I can't spend more time on it.

    I met two pilgrims walking the same route as me. They started at Mont St Michel and were heading to Bordeaux. From Bordeaux they were catching a train to somewhere in Spain depending on how they felt at Bordeaux. The walk between Bordeaux and Spain is notorious for being a hard slog so I can understand their logic. I would feel as though I had missed out if I didn't walk pretty much the whole way so I'll enjoy the slog. I hope .

    I passed the 1,600km to go sign! I thought 'that can't be right! I had to be closer than that.' But then I did a bit of mental arithmetic and realised it is right. It's much easier to do the walk when you stop thinking about where you're going and just enjoy where you are!

    Photos - rainclouds ahead, chapel and bench, La Vilaine in the morning, 1,600 km to go    Read more

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