• Day 6: Grandas de Salime

      April 21 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      I don’t normally write in the evening, but tonight felt so special that I thought I should. It has been a wonderful evening full of stories and laughter with a newly found pilgrim family.

      After relaxing in my room, I went downstairs for a beer, to find Pavel sat writing his diary. I spent some time talking with him and watching the locals play a card game. Pavel told me that one of the other pilgrims we know, Jerry from Canada, was staying in an Albergue close by. It was nice to hear that he had made it over the mountain. We shared photos and regaled stories of our individual pilgrimages so far. Whilst we were sat there two other pilgrims that we know, Georgio and Alesandro from Italy, invited us for dinner at the other Albergue in the town.

      I wandered down there later on and was met by Laura from Slovenia, Maria from Holland, Georgio and Alessandro from Italy, Aude from France and another guy from Germany. We drank wine and ate yummy food whilst trying to converse in broken English. It was a wonderful carefree evening of shared moments and common journeys.

      Just as the day was ending, I wandered back to my hotel, watching the sky darken and listening to locals laugh with one another. It was a peaceful walk and I had a beaming smile on my face as I tipsily made my way back to my room.

      Now I’m snuggled up and looking forward to my journey tomorrow, either alone or with friends.
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    • Day 6: La Mesa to Grandas de Salime

      April 21 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      Distance: 17.8km (11 miles)
      Elevation gain: 2,300ft
      Emotions: frustrated, sore but still cheery

      Today was supposed to be an easy bimble over the hill, down to the reservoir and then back up the other side to Grandas De Salime. Unfortunately, it was slightly more challenging as all the pain I had believed I was immune too, finally hit me. My knee ached, my feet felt bruised and the ominous blisters began to appear. But that was not going to get me down.

      What did get me down, however, was the insane decent that traversed down the side of the hill to the reservoir below. I have never been on such a brutal slope, aggravating my knee and in turn me. The views that might have distracted me were bathed in cloud so I was left between damp clouds, scree slopes and a dodgy knee. We made quite the party.

      As I neared the base of the slope, I stopped and had a word with myself. I couldn’t get despondent when the path didn’t go where I wanted, I would just have to adjust my perspective and keep going. It helped enormously, or it might have been that I had just dropped below the cloud line.

      Once at the very bottom, I then began the satisfying climb back up the other side. This was a lovely ascent, with a perfect gradient, beautiful views to distract and a lovely canopy of green overhead.

      I walked the last few kms with Jenny and Christina, two German teachers who are refreshing to spend time with. They are off home today though so I said a brief goodbye before finding my accommodation, where I now relax.

      Tonight I am in an actual hotel, overlooking the valley to the Albergue on the other side. It’s very very nice and I’ve just had a rainfall shower before I go and find some dinner this evening. My spirits have lifted and I look forward to the challenge of the next few days as I leave the mountains and head closer to Lugo.
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    • Day 5: Colinas de Arriba to La Mesa

      April 20 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

      Distance: 29km (18miles)
      Elevation gain: 3,670ft
      Emotions: exhausted, proud of my achievement

      What a day!? I arrived at my Albergue at 4pm, which is very late for me, but Im finally lying on my bed (in my own room) after having a shower and some chocolate to keep my energy up.

      Today was the formidable Hospitales route, up over El Picu Cimeiru and Pico de Freitas. It’s the highest part of the Camino and is well known for its beautiful views but vicious weather. I had stayed in the Albergue with Maria from Holland again, so we decided to tackle the route together. Although it was frustratingly slow at times, it was a good day to spend in the company of another pilgrim, as we ended up tackling longer distances, steeper gradients and colder weather.

      The climb up from Colinas de Arriba was short and steep, but easier than anticipated and we were blessed with incredible views over the valleys below as the sun rose. We stopped often to take in the glorious panoramas and were both in good spirits. The route meandered over the mountain ridge, providing epic scenery, but it wasn’t too long before the clouds blew in and stayed. We became quieter as the route became slightly more hostile and eerie, but we kept each others spirits up and kept putting one foot in front of the other. It was a challenge but we took it in our stride, literally, and reached the other side,where the views reappeared as we descended back below the cloud line.

      From there, we hiked through woodland, moorland and farmland, crossing ribbons of tarmac and traversing through small unoccupied villages. The further we ventured, the wetter it got, so Maria decided to stop for a warm coffee and to rest her legs. But I was warm, comfortable, and happy in myself and the rain, so I continued to plod along for the remaining 5km to my Albergue.

      It was a quiet day today with fewer pilgrims taking on the mischievous weather, but I am proud of what we achieved and am looking forward to food and bed, where I will probably dream of walking.

      Buen Camino!
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    • Day 4: Tineo to Colinas de Arriba

      April 19 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

      Distance: 23km (14miles)
      Elevation gain: 2,500ft
      Emotions: weary, clean, exhilarated, content

      I’m sitting in the bar of my albergue, sipping a beer and watching the rain fall outside. I’ve just had a hot shower and changed into clean, freshly washed clothes. Bliss!

      Today was a slower day, relaxing into a more sociable pace and talking with those I met on my journey. Most of my time, I walked with Jerry, an inspiring 79 year old Canadian who escaped communism in Czechoslovakia in the 50’s. He was really wonderful to speak to and provided a fantastic new perspective to life and the importance of living it as well as possible.

      I also reunited with Maria from Holland, who’s staying in the same albergue again tonight. We’d had quite the evening yesterday, laughing and getting tipsy on Asturian cider with Neil and Pavel, then sprinting back to our rooms through the rain. It was lighthearted and full of joy, the kind of night that feels timeless.

      Today was harder than I was anticipating… not because of the hangover, but because my muscles started to protest. Things started off beautifully, the sun shining over gorgeous views, but by afternoon, my butt muscles were protesting with every step… of all the things!!

      I also had my first day in Camino rain! It’s actually quite fun as you hide inside your giant poncho! I also passed the sign for the Hospitales (mountain) route today, where the trail splits into two. It was a big moment for me on the journey, and was quite emotional! I am staying in an Albergue close to where the route splits and, if the weather holds, I’ll take on the monumental climb into the mountains tomorrow morning. It’s one of the toughest sections, but I’m ready to try.

      For now, I’m going to enjoy this beer and rest before dinner. Despite the late start and slower pace, I was the first to arrive today. Funny how the Camino works like that.
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    • Day 3: Casazorrina to Tineo

      April 18 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Distance: 24km (15miles)
      Elevation gain: 3,100ft
      Emotions: tired but happy after another glorious day

      After a good breakfast I set off towards the ominous 8km long climb that would take me from 150m to almost 800m. It wasn’t the easiest thing I have ever done, but it was certainly one of the most beautiful. I set off alone but met lots of lovely people on the way.

      The trail wound through dense woodland along the valley’s edge, slowly revealing glimpses of the open mountains above. Eventually, the trees gave way to wide skies (with sunshine one moment and rain the next) as I reached the higher ground. I was genuinely surprised it didn’t destroy me, but still, I practically cheered when I reached the summit.

      From there, the rest of the day unfolded gently. I wandered through small towns, stopping here and there for a coffee or a Fanta, just soaking it all in.

      I also managed to find myself a walking stick, who I have christened Shmoo (to go with Schmow my rucksack). I was unable to buy any hiking poles in Oviedo due to Easter, but Shmoo was in a hedge close to my footpath today. He makes hills a lot easier and I only wish I had found him earlier!

      Today felt defined by the people I met. Pavel, who I ran into yesterday, arrived at the albergue not long ago. Along the trail, I also crossed paths with Neil, Florence, and Huel, all fellow travelers, each moving through the landscape at their own pace.

      Time for a stretch, looking out over the view before dinner.
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    • Day 2: Cornellana to Casazorrina

      April 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Distance: 10km-ish (day total 20km / 12.5 miles)
      Emotions: satisfied, tired and a little nervous

      I’m now settled into my lovely albergue for the night, resting in a bright, peaceful room before dinner. I’ll definitely sleep well after today’s walk: 12.5 miles with an elevation gain of 2,500 feet. That said, I’m feeling a bit nervous about tomorrow’s hike (15 miles and 3,400 feet of elevation). I just need to pace myself and be kind to my joints.

      But looking back to this afternoon, things slowed down beautifully after the excitement of the morning. The trail wound gently through quiet woodland, with sunlight filtering through the branches. Just as I started to fade, I stumbled upon a small river, perfect for soaking my feet and splashing some cold water on my face. It was exactly what I needed.

      It’s been a wonderful first day, peaceful and grounding. I’ve already met some fellow pilgrims. Estrid, from Holland, who is heading back to Grado tomorrow to continue her trek.

      Now off for some dinner! Buen Camino!
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    • Day 2: Oviedo to Cornellana

      April 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Distance: 38km (cheated - only walked 10km)
      Emotion: content, excited, emotional - all of it!

      I am sat having lunch in the sun! ☀️ … the sun!!!! After walking over half way to my destination. The walk so far has been beautiful, in so many ways.

      Before leaving Oviedo this morning (by bus), I stopped back at the Cathedral to pick up my Pilgrim Credentials. I’m not particularly religious, but it was unexpectedly emotional. Maybe it was the symbolism of beginning this journey, or just the overwhelming sense of peace at finally being here. Either way, I nearly had an embarrassing moment tearing up while the poor lady asked where I was from.

      I’ll skip the bus ride to Grado, but once I arrived, the real walking began… my first steps on the Camino de Santiago. It started with an immediate uphill climb. And then more uphill. And more. It was a fast learning curve, but the effort was rewarded with stunning views and kind locals calling out “Buen Camino!”Once at the top of my (pretty small) summit, I exclaimed to the heavens that I had made it and started down the other side… instantly getting a stitch.

      Since then, it has been quite smooth going and quite the adventure. I have met a man walking his horse, a group of guys from Mexico cycling the Camino, one of which decided to dive head first down a vertical drop off. He is called Javier and after I ran after his friends to get him some help, cycled after to me to say thank you.

      So that’s the beginning of my trip. My feet are starting to hurt but that’s nothing compared to the experience so far.
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    • Day 1: Madrid to Oviedo

      April 16 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

      Distance: 450km
      Emotions: Wired and tired

      I am finally here! And after attempting to sleep in a broom closet for the past 20minutes I have finally found my room.

      As the bus rolled into the Picos, the sun was just setting. I’d forgotten how massive those mountains are, seeing them again has made me feel tiny, especially knowing I’ll be crossing some of them in the days ahead. They’re stunning and deeply inspiring.

      Right now, though, I’m running on fumes. It’s incredibly late, and I didn’t manage any sleep on the journey. Still, that hasn’t dampened my spirits. I walked through Oviedo from the bus station, and the city’s lively nightlife gave me a boost. I am also staying directly opposite the Catedral de San Sebastián and the official start of the Primitive Camino route.

      I’m so excited for tomorrow… which technically begins in less than an hour. Time for some much-needed sleep!
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    • Day 1: Devon to Madrid

      April 16 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      Distance: long way
      Emotion: tired and tipsy

      I am sat in Madrid airport with a beer in hand, watching the arrival lounge and waiting for my bus which won’t leave for another 3 hours. I’m quite content and possibly a little tipsy.

      Unfortunately it seems the Spanish trains stop selling tickets when they run out of seats. I think they sold out a while ago. I sensibly bought my train ticket back on Saturday and trundled over to the bus terminal praying they had a space on a bus. Success! So, here I am watching the world go by sipping a Mahou.

      I have already met my first Camino friends, two Canadian ladies, Monique and Tanya. They missed their plane and so are also doing the last leg to
      San Sebastián by bus. They’re lovely and have just found me again so I’ll sign off and write again later.

      ——-

      Finally on the bus and heading north! It’s great to get moving and who knew coach journeys could be so damn comfy. I even have a little TV, although not sure it works 🧐
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    • Loop: Vielha to Col d’Aspin

      October 11, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Today was all about Col hunting and boy did we succeed, 4 ticked off the list, 2 of which we did twice… because we had too to get back to Vielha. The other bonus was that most, if not all of them were Tour de France routes which made Chez happy.

      The day started off not so great, with a massive screw in my tyre, but Chez came to the rescue with a tyre repair kit and the knowledge to use it. I also went for a lovely little walk in the woods which made me happy. Tyre bunged and inflated, coffee imbibed and the sun up and off we went for an epic day hunting for mountains!

      The photos speak for themselves but he passes we did were:
      Col d’Aspin
      La Hourquette d'Ancizan
      Col de Peyresourde
      Col du Portillon

      Autumnal wooded hillsides, gorgeous vistas, epic hairpins, daredevil drops and some damn good sorbet. Dreamy!!

      Oh and we ended up in France, love France’

      Good: the whole damn day
      Bad: nadda
      Roads: N230, N141, D618A, D618, D918, D113
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