Ranska
Département de la Lozère

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    • Päivä 101

      Schnee in den Pyrenäen

      19. huhtikuuta, Ranska ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

      Die Fahrt über die mautfreie AP 7 bei sonnigem Wetter verläuft problemlos. Wir übernachten nochmals in Spanien auf dem kostenfreien Stellplatz in Girona. Der Platz ist schon gut gefüllt als wir nachmittags ankommen.

      https://maps.app.goo.gl/G4cDHyRL5LWYQh9AA?g_st=ic

      Ist eigentlich klar bei der spannenden Stadt, die fußläufig durch einen Park in 2 Kilometern zu erreichen ist. Auch wir lassen uns durch die Altstadtgassen treiben und machen das obligatorische Foto auf die Häuser die sich im Fluss spiegeln.
      Die Strecke über die A 75 durch Frankreichs Berge ermöglicht bei toller Fernsicht traumhafte Blicke in die schneebedeckten Pyrenäen. Überall blüht der Ginster, es ist bunt auf den Wiesen.
      Dieses Mal nutzen wir wieder das französische System Pass’Étapes, „Camping-Car Park“. 12 Euro kostet der Platz. Er beinhaltet Strom, Ver-Entsorgung und freies Wifi. Wir schlafen super ruhig in dem Dorf Canourgue, das von der Autobahn aus in wenigen Kilometern erreicht wird.
      Wir machen in der untergehenden Sonne einen Spaziergang durch den alten Ort, der wegen seiner vielen Känäle auch „Klein- Venedig“ genannt wird.

      https://maps.app.goo.gl/RmVrcsMnsjqSpZfh7?g_st=ic

      Heute Morgen zeigt das Thermometer 5 Grad an. Die Sonne scheint aber noch.
      Tja, die Wintersachen müssen wohl wieder aus den hinteren Schrankregionen nach vorne geräumt werden. 🥲
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    • Päivä 8

      Aumont-Aubrac to Nasbinals

      26. huhtikuuta, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      Very upmarket buffet, and then David, the joint-manager (with his brother- the family has run the hotel since 1928) took it upon himself to solve the luggage issue. He rang the same people on the same number, but was not taking no for an answer, and decided the solution was for the case to go to the Post office ( if it wasn't there) and for La Malle Postale to pick it up (likely tomorrow) and take it to our hotel for tomorrow. Lots of animated phone calls later he assured us it would be done, and sent us off. We were hoping but not convinced.

      Today was along day - 27km officially, but 30km or so as both hotels were away from the town centres. It was drizzling as we left in the new ponchos (which worked well) and Saint Craig of Kiama had lent me a pair of waterproof over-trousers which he said were too big for him (he of umbrella yesterday). They probably were too big, as they were big for me. They were a godsend.

      The country was grey because of the clouds, but everywhere were long, low stone walls, green fields, or paddocks with daffodils, and small woods. Most of the track was a walkway between paddocks, but we were on rural roads now and then. That was better than the boggy sections: they were horrendous after just a little rain, so I can only imagine WWI.

      Unfortunately the sleet and rain began in earnest around 1015, and kept on until around 2pm, along with a gale. I doubt my chinos would have survived the mud, or have dried out by dinner. We were warm enough under the ponchos, but fingers number quickly, and stayed numb until the wind stopped, or the rare burst of sun. Having said that, it wasn’t too bad with the ponchos and waterproof boots: we could walk along quickly without getting hot.

      We went through a few hamlets, but no villages or towns, but made good time because it was too windy , wet and cold to stop except inside, and the few little cafes we saw were crowded, or in the open. We saw a man with a Phileas Fogg type contraption harvesting daffodils in the driving sleet... unsuccessfully, though, as he seemed to spend as much time under the machine as on it. Maybe he was sheltering?

      Nasbinals is a lovely old village with grey/fawn coloured stone houses, all with rooves made of flat rocks.

      Dinner was in the town rather than the hotel, and the same local specialties that Rosie and Amr had nearly 10 yrs ago - very good. Aligot (mashed potato plus cheese and garlic - consistency of play-dough) was a sight to behold, and very tasty.

      Just before we went we had an email from David, the Aumont-Aubrac manager, with a small glitch: the bag was delivered to the Le Puy post so late that it could not be collected today, and the Post is closed all weekend (plus perhaps Monday as a public holiday) so it will not be collected by la Malle Postale until Tuesday, and hopefully early enough then for it to be delivered to us where we will be that night - a town called Golinac. Four more days of only one pair of pants and shoes instead of one day more...but a timeline that ought to be achievable.

      Hotel is a branch of a family hotel business. 1. Opened at 4... but if you knew your room number you could take your key and go in anyway. 2. Wifi, soap, but no tea or coffee. 3 Great view over open fields 4. bed seems okay

      41,520 steps, 32.6km and 44 flights.
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    • Päivä 7

      Les Faux to Aumont-Aubrac

      25. huhtikuuta, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      We did not wake up until around 6;45 - probably physically and otherwise worn out - but breakfast was not until 7;30 and Thomas had said he would call the Parcel People at 8am, which is the deadline for dropping off luggage. We packed our one bag, which is unzipped to its fullest to take everything we don't want to carry each day, and went to breakfast with it. Air France is a disaster, but there is a service - La Malle Postale - that collects bags from hotels in the mornings and delivers them in the afternoons, and seems to be as good as Nico's proverbial Mongolian Yam. So far for us it has been faultless.

      The good Thomas went into action when there was a lull in checkouts. After much calling and waiting, he told us that it appears that Air France gave our bag to its agent, who gave it to the local postal service, who tried to deliver it (allegedly) yesterday afternoon to the hotel in Le Puy, and who can or will do no more than try to deliver it to the same place today. The local post is probably linked genetically to Air France, so I am not confident that anything they say about the past, present or future is true, but pilgrims can't be choosers. The deal (as at 1600 on Thursday 25 April ) is that the bag is delivered to the hotel, and then picked up tomorrow morning and delivered to our hotel for tomorrow, as arranged with the tour operator, for 45 Euro... which seems good value for everything involved. The only catch is the postal service...and it is very French...

      UPDATE 8pm. Stupid us. Of course they did not deliver the bag. No excuses, no explanations. They simply lied this morning. The receptionist here rang for us and the latest "information" (being French, the "dis" is silent) is that they will deliver it tomorrow, but they will not say when, nor where it is, in case we wanted to pick it up - only that there is only one point in the world it can go to, which is the hotel to which they would not take it. It's Anzac Day. Is this what those people fought for? Am I bitter, twisted and frustrated? Yep.

      Anyway, we started off around 9am today and it was cold and threatening. We had spray jackets on (and also had an umbrella and some cycling sleeves for warmth, courtesy of a sympathetic Australian couple at the hotel), but there was no rain or snow to speak of all day. Through a forest, down to a small town, then farming land and trails through woods, and the occasional small hamlet or farmhouse. The people in the farmhouses must be heartily sick of tourists walking right past their windows and doors for 9 months of the year. We went through only one or two villages/ hamlets on the way, but one (Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole) had a war memorial and a cannon, which seemed right for Anzac Day. The town also had a small, old, deserted chateau, which looked cold and empty, and the smelliest WC in Europe.

      We reached Aumont-Aubrac around 245. It is a small town/large village, but very pretty. The hotel is modern, but c 700m from the centre. We have not yet decided whether to have dinner here or in town... an extra walk, but we choose our own time.

      Went for a walk into town at 5pm. Found a store with rain ponchos and warm gear, and a very honest owner ("don't buy that-doesn't work"). A 12th c church, narrow streets with the occasional massive delivery 26 wheeler truck, Anne found a boulangerie etc

      Chez Camillou Hotel (Logis chain) does well. 1 It was open before 3pm and has soap, wifi, coffee and tea and a good bed. It is quite new/modern.
      2. very helpful receptionist who called for us trying to get an answer from the Air France baggage black hole.

      36,721 steps, 28.8km and 63 flights.
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    • Päivä 6

      Saugues to Les Faux, Saint-Alban-sur-Lim

      24. huhtikuuta, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

      And today was even colder still, but no snow. I think all of southern France is chilly right now, but we were up a bit higher (1320m) and there was a wind.

      Left our great hotel in Saugues around 8:30, along with many others, but within 30 mins we were wandering at our own pace and only occasionally passed other people. Already we recognised quite a few of them. Steady uphill through big farms (since there were few farmhouses of hamlets) then a forest, where the track was covered in snow. After that it was downhill (slowly) mostly in woods, and a side-trip to tonight's hotel. It is a hotel/gite in a hamlet with no other businesses, and i assume it is used becasue it is 27kms from Saugues, whereas the next bigger town is another 7km, and 34 kms might be a stretch with the hills.

      We waited in the cold for the 3pm opening, talking with another Australian couple who are also here tonight. It was very cold once we stopped walking.Then someone opened a window and said we could wait upstairs in a warmer kitchen area, and we did...until 4pm, not 3pm.

      I wiled away the time calling Air France and getting nowhere, although on the 4th call someone said the bag was out for delivery, but returned because the hotel they went to did not know who we were. Sounded fake to me, as all three hotels would remember.

      There are 6 Australians here, plus at least 5 Americans, and a French couple with the dog as seen in the old chapel yesterday. Plus a few other French walkers, I think.

      L’Oustal de Parent Hotel: 1 Biggish and modern, in the middle of fields2. Open at 4pm. 3. Thomas the helpful manager who may yet solve AF. 4 Warm room and great bed. 5 Aust couple lending us an umbrella and cycling sleeves 6 Finding the dog pilgrim and giving his parents their photo 7 Dinner excellent and tables served ( rather than people) so very quick. 8 no wifi in room

      36,541 steps/ 29.6km and 86 flights
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    • Päivä 5

      Saint-Privat d'Allier to Saugues

      23. huhtikuuta, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

      That was even colder!

      We left around the same time and had only 20km to go, but a few downs, then big ups and big downs; 886m high to 967, down to 606, up to 1090 and down to 963. Seriously, why not just put a relatively flat tunnel through?

      It did not rain at all, but it did snow on and off, and there was a freezing gale on the exposed sections. We missed a few panoramas, I expect, but the small amount of snow did make everything look festive, and there was no mud on the coldest bits. We also passed an amazing rock formation that literally bulged out over the road and had stainless steel anchor bolts for free-climbers. No-one climbing, but scary to imagine. it was shortly aver we crossed the Eiffel Bridge - an iron bridge designed by the man who went vertical as well.

      We arrived in Saugues around 2:15 again, found the (very good) hotel on the main street, and asked about the bag perhaps being delivered. The Thai manageress became quite teary at the idea of being outside without proper cold-weather gear and wanted to know all the details. When we went out to buy gloves and a beanie (Saugues is just big enough to have shops other than the bakery and garage) she was on the phone to Air France and its baggage agent for us, but I expect she will get the same programmed apologies and complete washing of hands plus disinterest. Air France is more appalling every day...

      To help us remember things, I will add the memorable things about each hotel as we go. Today's (for Hotel la Terrasse, Saugues) are 1. Thai manageress tearing up and attacking Air France 2. Big, quiet room with view over Main Street. 3 Wonderful dinner - mushroom soup, salmon penne (+truffle) and pear tart. The chef is the Thai manageress. There is a Michelin sign outside....4 Fantastic bed - big, right hardness. 5 Slept like logs until an equipment serviceman from Oz called at 4:37am

      30,450 steps, 24.0km (perhaps we had a few side trips, and I put the phone in a pocket on the backpack shoulder-strap , but it seems too high...) and 135 flights
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    • Päivä 5

      Wieder im Zelt

      31. elokuuta 2022, Ranska ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      War heute auch ein super Tag, aber auch ein langer.
      Zuerst in Gordes die Kathedrale fotografieren, weiter nach Avignon zur Brücke, dann nach La couvertoirade und das Templer-Kreuz fotografieren und dann nach Millau ins Zelt.Lue lisää

    • Päivä 7

      Diagonale départementale - Aveyron quer

      7. syyskuuta 2022, Ranska ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

      Wo Tarn und Jonte zusammen kommen, wo die Hochebenen (Causses) der Cevennen aus dreierlei Richtungen sich treffen, liegt in erhabener Lage das schmucke Dorf Peyreleau. Unsere verspätete Mittagsrast.
      Von hier aus machen wir uns auf den Weg nach Salvagnac-Cajarc, einem willkürlich ausgewählten einfachen Campingplatz direkt am Lot. Abends die neckische Feststellung, dass wir mit dieser dreistündigen Fahrt just das östlichste Dorf des Departement Aveyron mit dem westlichsten Dorf des Departements verbunden haben.
      Je mehr wir westwärts kommen, desto mehr entsteht der Eindruck, dem Herbst entgegen zu fahren: extrem trockene Hochebenen, Kühe die das Heu direkt von der Weide fressen, Felder mit Mikro-Maisstauden, Bäume mit komplett rotbraunem Laub. Beklemmend - umso mehr als wir gerade noch die vergleichsweise grünen Landschaften der Auvergne durchquert hatten.
      Die "Chapelle Saint Jean Baptiste" bei Rieupeyroux liegt auf einem kleinen Hügel mit einzigartiger 360-Grad-Rundsicht. Sie diente offenbar als wichtiger Triangulationspunkt für die Kartierung Frankreichs.
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    • Päivä 7

      In den Gorges du Tarn

      7. syyskuuta 2022, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Eine eindrückliche Fahrt entlang der Windungen des Tarn, in weitgehender Ruhe und beeindruckender Natur. Der Wasserstand des Tarn ist derart gering, dass ich nicht in Versuchung komme, mein Boot auszupacken.Lue lisää

    • Päivä 91

      St. Guilhem le Dèsert und die Cevennen

      24. maaliskuuta, Ranska ⋅ 🌙 3 °C

      Von Balaruc fuhren wir in Richtung Cevennen. Unser erstes Ziel war die Brücke Pont du Diable, die bei Saint Jean de Fos den Hérault überquert. Die Brücke diente seit dem 11ten Jahrhundert Händlern aus dem Süden in den Norden und umgekehrt und den Jacobspilgern auf der Via domitia nach Santiago.
      Weiter ging es dann zur Plus beau Village St. Guilhalm de Dessert mit seinem im 8ten Jahrhundert erbauten Kloster mit Kirche. Nach dem Besuch der Abbaye de Gellone weilten wir etwas bei einem Ricard auf der Place de la Liberté bevor wir das Ticket wegen falschen Parkens von der Windschutzscheibe entfernten.
      Und weiter ging es durch die Cevennen auf Departementsstraßen, auf denen kaum zwei Fahrzeuge aneinander vorbei kommen, durch Kurven über Kurven, durch tiefe Schluchten und Wälder, kurz gesagt, durch eine abenteuerliche Landschaft.
      Da wir nicht Recht voran kamen und unser Ziel Langogne nur sehr spät und in vollster Dunkelheit erreichen konnten, machten wir in Villefort am Fuße des Mont Lozère und neben dem Lac de Villefort auf einem Campingplatz schon im Dunkeln halt und belegten einfach mal einen Platz. Das Tor war jedenfalls auf, aber im Internet haben wir dann gelesen, dass der Platz erst am 1. April öffnet.
      Schaun ma mal.
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    • Päivä 14

      Now, that’s a knife!

      27. syyskuuta 2022, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

      We were very excited about our morning activity today. We were off to Laguiole to see the Laguiole Knife Museum, to learn about their history and see these most beautiful knives being made. Unfortunately, due to COVID, they have lost most of the staff who speak English, so the guy who gave us the history talk couldn’t parler Anglais. The solution was to have myself and Ian, with some help from Mary, interpret! (Ed - Danielle did a fantastic job.) There were a couple of moments where things got lost in translation, but overall I think it was a great team effort. The most amusing part was when he was explaining the use of the “spike”, the third element added to the knives. It was developed to punch cows in the stomach to relieve gas pressure if they had eaten too much green grass. He also seemed to be suggesting a similar use if people had eaten too much. But, in the end we realised it was to punch an extra hole in the belt.

      After the history and a demonstration of how the knives are made, polished etc, and a walk through their museum, we were let loose in the shop. There were so many options, it was quite overwhelming, but we all made a purchase.

      After our close encounter with knives, we hit the road and travelled to Buron de Camejane, a typical dairy farm from the Aubrac region to see Aligot being made and then having it for lunch with a grilled beef saucisson. This dish comprises, potato, Tome and Fourme cheese, butter, cream and S & P. (Ed - more or less a heart attack on a plate.) It was delicious, but virtually impossible to finish. We had a rum punch to start and wine was also available. For the meal we had charcuterie for entree, a cheese course after the Aligot main, and the best blueberry pie I have ever had for dessert. Everything was delicious and I think we will need to walk some way to burn off the Aligot.

      As the weather was quite bad (cold, wet and windy), especially as we were on an escarpment 1,300 metres above sea level, we reviewed the schedule and, instead of walking from Aubrac to Les Cambrassats (which was over 10km), we did a much shorter 3 km walk finishing in the delightful town of Saint Côme d’Olt. Fortunately we had good weather for our walk. We walked around the town and picked up some supplies before arriving at our accommodation for the evening, a Covent that has been converted into a simple hotel. The rooms were basic, but clean and comfortable and we were served meals ‘cafeteria style’. It was a nice experience and the nuns were lovely (not like the horrible nuns I had at school).
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    Saatat myös tuntea tämän kohteen näillä nimillä:

    Département de la Lozère, Departement de la Lozere, Lozère, Lozere

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