Ireland
Munster

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    • Day 27

      Kilmacthomas Greenway

      June 1, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      Lovely village, another accident as we were delayed by roadworks after swimming yesterday, so we ended up stopping here for the night. The buildings are all painted bright colours, there is a shop called Lennons, and we are parked between an abandoned mill and a community orchard, at the start of a huge greenway carrying on until the next city.

      Seems most of Ireland is beautiful, so some of our nicest spots are totally unplanned as it's just too easy to end up somewhere gorgeous. People seem friendly everywhere you go. So far so good for the whole country 👌🏼🇮🇪🥰

      Oh and we finally found a toothbrush for Lennon 🙈 his poor little rotten, month old teeth are finally clean 😆
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    • Day 29

      Kinsale

      June 3, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

      Me and Lennon took a walk down the river into the village of Kinsale while Brace was working. Known for being the most beautiful, colourful, and traditionally Irish village in the country. Apparently it's so beautiful, people who visit never leave... (a lady I met backs this up, she came to visit her sister for 2 weeks over 30 years ago 🤣) So if you don't see us again you'll know where to come looking!Read more

    • Day 31

      Muckross Small Traditional Farm

      June 5, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      The 'small' farm was 20,000 acres, Lennon met his first piglets and chickens... I can't help but wonder if he thinks all animals are strange dogs... Given he hasn't met any or watched TV or anything 🤣 poor hippy weird kid 😆

      He loved it here because he got tonnes of attention from the women working here as guides/farm keepers
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    • Day 31

      Muckross Petting Farm

      June 5, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Lennon LOVED the animals
      We had an amazing experience really, there was a goat in labour, even the farmer was surprised, he thought she was just fat not pregnant 🤣
      We could have stayed to watch her have the baby but it felt horrible watching 😂 very special though.
      We also saw another farmer training a stray dog on the fence boundary. There was an Irish Wolf Hound, who's brother recently passed, leaving the girl heartbroken. They found a stray dog in the local park and have taken it in to be the remaining sisters new friend 😍
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    • Day 31

      Muckross Large Traditional Farm

      June 5, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      We met a lovely Man in the school, he told us loads of info about the school in the 30s then he suddenly sang a traditional irish song to Lennon so I danced (with Lennon in his sling) and Lennon laughed 🤣

      Such an amazing place, really gave you a good idea of what life would have been like working/living there in the 30s ☺️
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    • Day 15

      Die überlauffenen Klippen

      June 4, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      Der nächste Tag startet nicht etwa so, wie man es sich denken könnte, wenn man an einem neuen Ort ankommt, mit einem gemütlichen Stadtbummel in Galway. Das Wetter ist uns nämlich weiterhin sehr wohlgesonnen, so dass wir uns direkt auf den Weg ins nächste County machen, das am WAW liegt, das vielbesungene County Clare.

      Wir nehmen das Auto und fahren ca. eine Stunde auf kurvigen Strassen entlang der Galway Bay in den Burren (https://www.burrennationalpark.ie/), die Karstlandschaft, die den Norden des County Clare entscheidend prägt. Der kleine, erstmals unscheinbare Ort an dem wir parken heisst Doolin. Hier gibt es unter anderem ein Fährverbindung auf die Arran Island, auf die wir nach einigem hin und her in diesen Ferien verzichten (ist eine Reise für sich Wert). Zugleich ist es der Startpunkt zur Wanderung auf die berühmtesten Klippen Irlands, die Cliffs of Moher, die wir in rund 2 Stunden erklimmen wollen (und dann auch wieder "absteigen").
      Ein flacher Anfang und einige Trampelpfade erleichtern den Einstieg aber nur der Blick nach vorne lässt einem erahnen, dass es dann noch etwas aufwärts gehen wird. Die Cliffs of Moher sind nicht die höchsten Klippen Irlands, aber vielleicht die malerischsten? Das liegt im Auge des Betrachters. Mir gefällt ganz besonders, dass man bei gutem Wetter eine super Sicht auf die südlichste der Arran Inseln - Inis Oírr - hat.
      Wir steigen als in der Höhe kontinuierlich und erfreuen uns ab schönem Wetter, guter Aussicht und nicht zu vielen Leuten, die ebenfalls die Idee mit dem Walk hatten. Als wir dann nach gut 100 Minuten auf dem höchsten Plateau der Cliffs ankommen, ändert sich dieses Bild schlagartig: Viele Menschen haben es bereits mit Cars oder ihrem Auto zu den Klippen geschafft und machen die Ruhe und Idylle des Ortes deutlich zunichte. Gut, wir gehören auch zu dieser Menge und dennoch verdirbt es etwas die Laune, länger oben auf dem Plateau zu verweilen. Nach 15 Minuten und einigen Fotos steigen wir wieder ab und merken, dass ca. 20 Minuten von der Anhöhe entfernt die Fotos sogar noch etwas schöner sind, da mehr dieser Kette von Felsvorsprüngen fotografiert werden kann.
      Nach insgesamt 4 Stunden und doch einigen Bobolis und Wehwelis (ja die Wanderung hoch und runter ist nicht ohne) erreichen wir mit vielen Eindrücken wieder Doolin wo wir uns im O'Connells Pub einen wohlverdienten Burger mit Pommes Frites gönnen, ehe wir zurück nach Galway fahren.

      Was bleibt von diesem Besuch bei den Cliffs? Für Sonja war es das erste Mal, also macht es auch Sinn, ganz nach oben zu laufen um sich einen Eindruck von der ganzen Schönheit des Ortes zu verschaffen. Ist man aber schon oben bei den Klippen und in den Shops gewesen, so tut man vielleicht besser dran, einfach die nicht minderschönen Wege bei dem Weg von Doolin hoch zu geniessen.

      à plus.....
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    • Day 34

      The Cliffs of Moher

      June 8, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

      The trips most anticipated stop... Was a tourist trap sadly and a huge let down.
      Beautiful yes but the Kerry Cliffs we visited the other day were more our style.
      Glad we went though and was fun to be almost blown to our deaths off a cliff by the craziest wind imaginable 😂Read more

    • Day 19

      Roots

      June 20, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

      After bidding goodbye to Bridie and her lovely home, we headed to St John’s Church in Tralee. What another amazing old structure. It was humbling to think that my grandma received the Sacrament of Baptism in this church in 1890. Off to the office where we got contact information for the archivist of the church. I’ll email him details and any pictures of documents we have. The parish cemetery is a few miles away, so we headed off to Rathass Cemetery. The caretaker of the cemetery was so helpful. He took both my great grandparents names and did a search, but found nothing. He said the data base is very incomplete before the 1920’s. We took a few pictures of headstones with Reidy names and will try and do more research through Ancestry. It’s amazing how easy it is to spend 2 hours in a cemetery.
      We had at least another hour to get to Kilcolgan in Galway county just south of Kilorglin, where we stayed many years back with Jen and Kelly. Our hosts for the next two days are Kate and Michael at Rafterys Way. So we hit our first Motorway of the trip. M18, with a speed limit of 120km/hr. We think it’s around 75miles/hr but the 120 is much more impressive! Kate offered us tea and biscuits when we arrived, had a chance to explore her garden and talk flowers with her and politics with Michael. As in the US, there are varied opinions about how each government handled the Covid lockdown. Tourism is such a huge component here that many businesses never could reopen. One owner we spoke with in Dingle said they learned some very important lessons from the lockdown. He said it rekindled their family time which had been lacking due to the business. He has chosen to close on Sundays for family time. Many businesses don’t have that luxury.
      Had an early dinner and bedtime. Heading to Inisheer, the smallest of the Aran Islands by ferry tomorrow.
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    • Day 69

      CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 4

      June 21, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      After a restful night, we packed for the next leg of our trip and we said good-bye to our wonderful hosts Markie and Eamon.

      We decided to get breakfast in the nearby town of Carlow, and we found a really great espresso spot. It wasn't just that the lattes and breakfast food was delicious, we loved the positive community building environment. On the wall was an aspirational message which in part expressed:
      "...we want to help to build a positive space where people can come together, be convivial, and bring our town back to its happy place..."

      There was a slate with post-it notes where you could purchase drinks for others and they could use the post-it note as a voucher for a drink. We opted to do that when we paid our bill. We really appreciated what this small business in the midst of a little town was trying to do to build community.

      At breakfast we talked about our route possibilities to our final destination of Kinsale, a small fishing village south of Cork. We opted for the longer route with a stop at Hook Head Lighthouse in County Wexford.

      We enjoyed walking around Hook Lighthouse. It's amazing that this structure is 850 years old. It reminded us of our times on the Maine coast.

      When we departed, we noticed the ruins of a church several hundred kilometers down the road. After reading the inscription, we learned that Saint Dubhan, came to Hook Point from Wales in 452 A.D and established a monastery on this site. Saint Dubhan is believed to have lit the first warning beacon for ships on the point shortly after his arrival. This beacon had been maintained by the monks for 700 years until the current lighthouse was built. The English word for Dubhan is hook.

      As we explored the ruins and found gravesites, some hundreds of years old and others relatively new, I reflected on the theme that this was a site where someone looked out for others. His mission and those who followed him was to keep others seafaring travelers safe, and his legacy remains.

      We left this area and headed west past the city of Waterford where Waterford Crystal is made. We enjoyed the three-hour drive and we arrived in Kinsale late afternoon.

      Kinsale reminded us both of Boothbay Harbor, Maine. It's a colorful, bustling fishing village of about 4,000 people. We've rented a flat above an art gallery. It's cheerful and open, and close to several pubs and restaurants.

      After a short nap, we took a walk along the marina and then looked for a place to get dinner. We settled on a pub that was filling up quickly. Jim had fish and chips, and I opted for beef stew with Guinness. I decided that my stew seemed to be missing something: flavor. I told Jim that his stew was significantly better. What was missing in the food was made up in the drink as we enjoyed beers, and I had an Irish coffee.

      We decided to wait to hear the performers, and I'm glad that we did. Two older Irish men played guitar and and English and American songs with several opportunities for audience sing-a-longs.
      We made room for a couple who were standing near our table. They were very grateful that we made room for them. As it turns out they were educators from California. We told them that we were from Portland. They laughed because they assumed that we were locals because of our white beards.

      We had a fun evening talking with them, making song requests and listening to the banter of the performers. It was fun to share the table with them.

      It was totally on my romanticized bucket list to sit in a pub and sing Irish songs. I was envious of the performers, and I thought back to a time when I organized a Pete Seeger tribute concert in Maine. I loved the opportunity to be a song leader and to gather community to create something together. It makes me want to try that again. Who knows, maybe there will be space on this trip.

      As I reflect on the experience of the day, my take away is summarized by another piece on that coffee house wall in Carlow:

      "One of the basic cravings of humanity is to connect with each other. " Yes.
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    • Day 70

      CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 5

      June 22, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      We had a very decent night's sleep in our apartment, but we did wake up to what I was assuming was trash collection day given the loud sounds of grinding metal and broken glass.

      We later discovered that this was the delivery of many kegs of beer to the neighborhood. We really are staying in "Pub Central". When I was researching the top 10 pubs in Kinsale, most on the list are meters away from our flat.

      Jim C graciously ran to the store and picked up some groceries and cappuccinos for breakfast in our space. I'm reminded that the thing I will cherish most upon our return are meals at home. As nice as it has been to have some incredible meals out, the thought of preparing are own meals again feels like a different sort of luxury.

      We decided to go to the Blarney Castle today which is located just outside of the city of Cork in the town of Blarney. The visit was to see the famous Blarney stone where purported if you kiss the stone, you are given the gift of eloquence and flattery.

      Growing up with all the Irish relatives on my mother's side of the family, I would always think of the term blarney as being a "bullshitter" or someone who jabbers unending nonsense. In a more positive light, I see the gift of blarney in someone who can strike up a conversation with anyone.

      Dating back to my elementary school days, my report cards were often riddled with derogatory teachers' comments like "socializes too often with others" or "spends too much time talking with others". Upon reflection, it's interesting to see that behaviors that were seen as deficits in my youth, served me well as an adult. Perhaps the refinement over time was learning to listen more than just talk, but the ability to strike up a conversation with strangers has been poweful for my career, and it helped me meet my husband. 💚 Ironically, I attribute my "gift of gab" to my French-Canadian father.

      Ok, enough of my blarney birdwalk...

      We arrived at the grounds of the castle. The grounds are absolutely spectacular. I should note that I knew that in order to kiss the Blarney Stone, that one has to maneuver in a prone position with your head upside down to kiss the specific stone. I was missing one very important detail: The stone is positioned 85 feet above the ground with a gap near the parapet where you can see below to the ground. I watched with horror from the ground as we approached the castle walls, and we could see people being "assisted" to kiss the stone. The line marker that announced that we had a 60-minute wait to arrive at the stone, and I felt the same nervous anticipation that I've experienced in lengthy amusement park rides with dizzying heights as a component of the experience.

      The procession to the castle was lined with many informational placards. I learned that the castle was owned by the MacCarthy family who loved to entertain. I recognized, with a sense of pride, the coat of arms from my own family; my maternal grandmother was a McCarthy and they have roots in Cork County.

      As we made our way through the castle ruins, we could see various placards naming the rooms and activities in the castle. We then began the very narrow, claustrophobic climb up the "Tower of Terror". I was determined to go up despite a marked fear of heights and a pretty strong dislike of cramped spaces. We navigated the hundred steps to the top.

      I have always loved the view and despised the process to achieve it. This was no exception. As we approached the stone, I confirmed that there was no way that I was dangling my head upside down with the ground visible below despite iron bars making it impossible to fall through. The last few informational panels described numerous legends surrounding the stone including business dealings, grateful witches and Faerie magic. I couldn't locate the Satan legend, but I'm sure it was there somewhere.

      You might think this is irrational, but I'm the guy who pauses stepping over the minute gap between the floor and an elevator convinced that my ample frame will somehow manage to fall through the crack. (Note: Before the safeguards were installed, the kiss was performed with real risk to life and limb, as participants were grasped by the ankles and dangled bodily from the height.)

      I was afforded the opportunity to witness the vicarious thrill (terror) of my husband being pulled to the vicinity of the stone for a photo op. His first words to me were "Yeah, you would have hated that."

      We made it back down the set of stairs to the ground and we walked to the next seemingly safer exhibit of the "Poisonous Plants Garden". Cannabis was one of the plants displayed. As the saying goes, "you pick your poison". I could have used a visit to the garden prior to the heart palpitation adventure.

      I loved our walk through the garden. The flowers and forest grounds were really beautiful and peaceful. Much of the time, we felt like we had the park to ourselves.

      We left the park, and stopped Cork for a beer. While I'm not a big beer fan, I have enjoyed the Irish Red ales.

      We returned to the apartment for a nap and we enjoyed a leisurely dinner at "The Black Pig" a local wine bar. Our server was delightful, and we hit it off after we complimented her on her skillful dispatch of obnoxiously entitled neighboring guests who were furious that they couldnt seat nine guests at a table barely designed for six. They left in a huff, and it made our dinner that much more enjoyable. I really do feel for staff in the hospitality business. I know most establishments are very understaffed, and we appreciate their hard work. Despite the absence of tipping culture in Europe, we've tried to show our appreciation.

      Signing off with gratitude for another wonderful day. ☘️ 💞
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Munster, An Mhumhain, مونستر, Манстэр, Мънстър, Cúige Mumhan, مونستەر, Манстер, Munsteri provints, Còigeamh Mumhan, Queiggey Mooan, מנסטר, マンスター, მანსტერი, Мунстер, 먼스터, Momonia, Mansteris, Munster Séng, Momonîn, منستر, Munsteri, مونسٹر, 芒斯特省

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