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Simon & Tracey’s 2019 CaminoSimon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino
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Simon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino

Mayıs - Haziran 2019
June 2019 Okumaya devam et
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  • GezginSimon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino
    Gün 21

    Day 20 on the Camino

    20 Haziran 2019, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Well, we slept well last night. Tracey even got a little lie in until 6:30am. (I’d stayed up a little longer last night and woke earlier just to check on her and see if she was ok). The fall yesterday took a lot out of her, but she was adamant when I woke her that we were going the planned 34km - to be reviewed on the way; but I knew what that meant always, lol.
    We took out time and got out of the Albergue around 7:15am, found the first bar and had breakfast. Ready for the day we set off. The first 8km, after walking through the old town, skirted around the new - through some posh neighbourhoods and out into fields of market garden produce. Families were already out there tending their plots. Again into suburbs and rural towns before we hit the countryside again. The crops had tuned back to fields of vines (of which four years ago we remembered tasted the grapes 🍇🍇 in the Autumn).
    We stopped around 16km in, to get some fruit and a Spanish “Cornish pasty” in Cacabelos. Every village we passed theology had a small church at least, and here was no exception. Stone brick, rotund and simple inside with wonderful stain glass windows.
    The countryside was undulating today with a better grittier teach and road to walk on. No trips or slips today, though Tracey walked with a slight limp and the muscles were starting to ache from the fall yesterday.
    We passed through the beautiful town of Villafranca de Bierzo with little under 10km to go. The path followed the road, through a gorge, with a motorway above us. The hill sides changing from grass land and vines to more trees.
    The Albergue we planned to stay in (decided 1km before the end) was full - only 12 beds. But, a dear old lady who was sat outside led us along the street, between other houses to another (her’s). This I believe she did for another 8 guests, lol.
    We did the usual - slept and chatted to others.
    Even watched the rain fall outside and listening to the thunder. Feeling glad we had got there in time.
    Dinner ended up to be a self organised communal affair with about 5 languages being spoken. The Italians ended up cooking - pasta, couldn’t argue with that.
    Blog and a cup of Twinings English Breakfast tea ad now it’s bed 💤    Okumaya devam et

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  • GezginSimon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino
    Gün 22

    Day 21 on the Camino

    21 Haziran 2019, Ispanya ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Ok, so just a warning ⚠️ to today’s blog. We have just come from a large (40+ communal dinner) where the bottles of red wine were being replaced like tap water. Such a fantastic feast, and the noise from the conversation was amazing. Everyone has a story to tell and share.
    Today you could throw 10 adjectives at and you wouldn’t do it justice. It was the hardest, toughest, most amazing, wonderful, beautiful, draining day so far. So the Pyrenees, they were tough. But once you were over them you came down. Today was as steep if not steeper; with a twist. You thought you were at the top at O Cebreiro, but NO... for the not (and last 10km) you kept going up and down all along the plato top. We were even tainted by two Altos. Seeing the Albergue was such a great sight.
    Earlier in the day we started out along the road again, but soon transferred onto a track. The landscape had turned greener, more pastural and market garden. And as we started gently to climb we remarked how much like home it looked. The villages we passed through were so removed from Spanish rule - so remote and rural, looking like they survived on what they could. The initial two gentle hours passed and allows Tracey to loosen up the aching muscles. And the next two hours we sweated the warming day and the steep climb.
    Today was also special to us, as the generosity of those following us meant that Tracey hit the £800 target set to raise for The Christie. We are in your debt, thank you.
    (Made it with a minute to lights out... Night all)    Okumaya devam et

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  • GezginSimon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino
    Gün 23

    Day 22 on the Camino

    22 Haziran 2019, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Fonfría ending up in Vilei (just past Sarria). 32km give or take. One thing you learn quickly on the Camino is to never trust the measurements. It is what it is in the end, and you can get very frustrated (especially at the end of a long day when 3km turns out to be 4km).
    Today we came down the mountain we climbed yesterday, and for 9km it was dropping, gentle at first on a good path but then steeper and steeper with worn out rocky paths again (European money not stretching the whole way down). We were definitely in Yorkshire... Stone walls, green undulating hills and fields, cows 🐄, tree cover and woodland, moss, nettles, daisies, cow parsley. Even starting the day with grey cloud, but that still burnt off with the humidity getting up and the temperature hitting the low 20s.
    We walked through farm villages fo most of the day - made up with 6 to 10 houses and the main road littered with evidence of cows. Even when we stopped for a drink and a tortilla we were reminded where we were with cows going past us for milking.
    We walked through Serria (modern into old town) as this is the last start for people wanting to get their certificates in Santiago - as its the last town before 💯km. It would be busy with new walkers, and we wanted to be in front of them tomorrow.
    Today’s walk was hard for Tracey, and progressively for me too. Tracey’s knee proving to be the worst of her injuries when it comes to walking. It took a while to free itself this morning, as then later on got progressively worse. For me I seem to have pulled something in my shin ankle area. And at the Albergue we shared the ice pack on all our injuries.
    Washed, washing and sleep. A beer and then dinner (not great for vegetarians). Some seeing Andy he blog. It’s busier not walking!
    Tomorrow we plan to start make the km’s back we lost at the start - depending on our limps. We are still on plan for Wednesday finish 😀, bodies allowing.    Okumaya devam et

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  • GezginSimon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino
    Gün 24

    Day 23 on the Camino

    23 Haziran 2019, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Well that was a fun ~33km today, who said the rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain? Not today.
    As we set off from Vilei this morning, at a leisurely 7:30 we had cloud cover but no rain. It had been pouring all night, but broke for sun rise.
    We decided to walk before breakfast and at around 6km through rural fields and tree lined paths we came across a breakfast spot. Perfectly times for a couple of reasons, it was spitting with ran and also they were just open. We managed to string out a croissant as two coffees each for an hour or so, as we watched the rain lash down. Many first time pilgrims, joining the Camino from Sarria trudged past with their new waterproofs and ponchos.
    The rain eased enough for us to get underway - rain coats on and backpack covers too. We walked through oak Forrest’s and arable land, undulating all the way. Today’s chorus of song from the birds was also joined by a field of frogs croaking away. We were motoring away to lift the average pace up, our aches and pains being dulled by modern medicine.
    Just before Portomarín we came across a Veggie bar - something we had to stop for, as Tracey had suffered a poor offering the night before The food in Spain is definitely orientated to the meat eater. But this was an oasis for all. The veggie burgers 🍔 were to die for and a smoothie to was it all down. The rain had eased, and so waterproofs came off, long sleeves packed away and fuelled we were ready for the last 15km.
    We dropped steeply to the bridge across the river to Portomarín and suffered the long haul up the other side. The path for a change followed a road up (a reminder of a week back). Modern medicine was wearing off with 6km to go (or as I had said 5 point something kilometres... it was actually 6.1, but I didn’t want to demoralise the troops).
    Again today was a walk through small farm villages, cows, pigs and sheep; and the view of the final village with our lodgings for the night was welcome.
    Normal ritual happened, and rewarded with a big beer. Rest and a pilgrim dinner, only one more thing to do (after finishing the wine bottle) - bed. Earlier again!
    Tomorrow a shorter day, only 27km and half the lost stage back. Pulpo...    Okumaya devam et

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  • GezginSimon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino
    Gün 25

    Camino Day 24

    24 Haziran 2019, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    The alarm went off at 6:11. Neither of us moved, I was swift to turn it off before upsetting the others in the dorm. There were 10 in the room today, a couple had left already and another was rustling around in their bag 🎒. Even after 3 or 4 weeks for some, you never pack the bag right for the next morning. You think you have everything for a quick getaway, and then you remember your clean socks at the bottom (or the iPhone charger, fr that extra 10% whilst your getting ready in the dark). I got up at 6:30, and dared to wake Tracey at 6:50 - she was still sleeping. We were not the last out, but at 7:40 we were near the remaking few. 💯m later we stopped for breakfast at the bar. We didn’t set off for real until about 8:30 in the end.
    We were walking the shortest leg so far today, 27km to Melide - home of the regional delicacy Pulpo. Spilt into two halfs we would stop for lunch in Palas del Rei.
    Much of the walking today was gentle troughs and peaks, slowly descending all along. Mainly the same as yesterday, walking country lanes/avenues with a canopy from the trees lining them (oak and increasingly more so eucalyptus) and fields with cattle or horses. Only a few had crops now.
    It was only a few kilometres away from tonight’s resting place did we come across a couple of things that had been regular in our days walking previously. First of all, following a main road and secondly a medieval stone bridge crossing the river at Furelos.
    On the was into Melide I tried some of the octopus 🐙, and it amazed me how great it tasted. We found the Albergue easily enough, and just in time... or aches and pains were starting to raise their heads (though the feet seemed to have more life in them).
    Wash, cook, drink and wander the town. Pack for tomorrow, blog and now to finish the last beer off before bed. Lights out tonight is 11pm‼️
    Two more days... two more days...
    Night    Okumaya devam et

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  • GezginSimon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino
    Gün 26

    Camino Day 25

    25 Haziran 2019, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    It was warm and stuffy in the dormitory last night, waking us both in the night. Tracey just got up and went back to sleep, whilst I (most probably upsetting a few people) opened the windows for some air.
    We decided to breakfast in, we had cereal, tea and OJ - making a welcome change from a ‘cafe con leche’ and a ‘napoleon’ (not that I have anything against them, but it’s nice to have a breakfast you are use to).
    Much of the day’s walking was similar to yesterday. Undulating through forests and fields. We saw more Jays today, and a vole to add to the list of animals on our Camino. He was scuttling across the path.
    It was getting warmer today too, that and the fast paced 31km to Santa Irene brought out the aches and pains. One more day after this, we kept thinking... one more day. Weird, after all this time how the last few km’s are taking its toll. The feet are fine, they have got use to the boots and the daily steps. It’s just the rest of the body starting to say enough.
    We passed many on the trail today, with differing sizes of bags and wear to their boots. It was certainly busier. We stopped quickly for a couple of drinks, and slightly longer for lunch. So we ended up passing the same people upto four times today. Some faces we recognised from early on, and others recently in Sarria.
    Tonight’s bunk beds are together, and we both have the bottoms. The Albergue is only half full, So no pressure on the showers - Maybe as we are 2km away from a ‘standard’ stage stop. We are here after 25 days, instead of the guided 34. Not bad going.
    Santiago tomorrow, and the last stamp in our credentials as pilgrims.
    Night, and thank you for your support x    Okumaya devam et

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  • GezginSimon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino
    Gün 27

    Day 26 Camino part I

    26 Haziran 2019, Ispanya ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    So, here we are. The last day. All the roads, tracks, hills and flats we have walked - its all come down to this last 23km. We still haven’t mastered the rucksack 🎒 packing, but we are getting there now. A clean set of clothes, and a shave - ready to go.
    We set of around 7:20 and follow the road in and out of forests. Undulating as we go, some rather short and steep (a gentle straight down would have been nice). Passing by a village we decide not to add more onto our walk today to in sake for a coffee now - there is sure to be another village. And there is, but another 4km on...
    The path is good, and a few people are walking it. But then all of a sudden it gets busy, a large school partly of teenagers and teachers pour out of their Albergue. And for the first half of the walk it feels quite crowded.
    From an overcast damp start we walk into drizzle, low cloud and finally fine rain and then rain... Coats and covers on we trudge forward. As we get to the city’s edge we should be able to see the cathedral above the buildings, but it’s covered in cloud and drizzle. We walk through the new town, slowly winding our way up and in; able to take the coat hoods off.
    We made it. 😀 Just around mid day we get to the Cathedral square. Fantastic, 26 days.
    Now, to find the pilgrims office for our Compostela. No shells or yellow arrows to follow for this, and it’s moved from four years ago too. We follow a few backpacks and pick up tourist signs to the office. A queue! As good pilgrims we join the line. Maybe an hour later we come out smiling with our credentials and compostela.
    Now where’s the Albergue- I need a wash and a rest.    Okumaya devam et

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  • GezginSimon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino
    Gün 27

    Day 26 Camino part II

    26 Haziran 2019, Ispanya ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    A double bed!! Whoop 🙌.
    Clean and rested we get ready to see the city. Tracey said she was de pilgriming, being able to wear normal clothes again and makeup.
    Not having I walk around with the rucksack makes a big difference too. I get my obligatory (been there,seen that, got the...) tee shirt.
    The sun comes out for the afternoon, temperature rises and we have a nice time wondering seeing all the sights, hearing all the sounds of this busy city.
    The cathedral is undergoing renovations and there’s no pilgrim mass inside. We go in to view what we can, and to light a candle for Jasmine.
    It’s evening now, and the city is livening up, people out to socialise and dine. We head for the Paradore hotel, slipping past a sign keeping tour groups out we head to the bar and enjoy a glass of cold crisp cava. (In the same table and chairs from four years ago). But for that extra treat, we head for that extra treat - dinner down in the vaulted restaurant. The tasting menu, with accompanying wine; and they even made a vegetarian version for Tracey. Wow, what a treat it was. The food was divine, and the wines too.
    Only one more thing to do, sleep 💤    Okumaya devam et

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