Norway
Sogn og Fjordane Fylke

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    • Day 154

      Le parc national des glaciers de Norvège

      August 15, 2023 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

      À la découverte du parc national abritant le plus grand glacier d'Europe continentale ; le Jostedalsbreen 🧊.

      La météo n'est pas très favorable, mais notre excitation à l'idée d'approcher un glacier de près est sans faille !

      Nous entamons cette journée par une escapade au Lovatnet, un lac turquoise à l'aspect un peu laiteux, typique de ceux alimentés directement par les glaciers. Nous y dégustons une omelette à la carotte en nous délectant de la vue 💁‍♀️.

      Le lac possède une histoire peu commune. En 1905, un affaissement de terrain au niveau de la montagne à créé un important tsunami détruisant les villages, les fermes, les bateaux aux alentours et provoquant la mort d'une soixantaine d'habitant•e•s. Les géologistes évaluant à un niveau de risque très faible la possibilité qu'une catastrophe de cette ampleur puisse se reproduire, les villages furent reconstruits. Malheureusement, en 1936, un second affaissement de terrain apparu provoquant une vague similaire qui sema à nouveau destruction et blessé•e•s graves sur sa route. Ces événements entraînèrent le dépeuplement de l'endroit.

      Seconde étape, le Briksdalsbreen, un bras du célèbre glacier !

      Stationné sur le parking en contrebas, c'est parti pour 45 minutes d'ascension pour rejoindre le glacier. Le sentier est très aménagé ; avec boutique souvenirs à l'entrée, passerelles, panneaux explicatifs, et même... des voiturettes électriques en mode safari qui acheminent les touristes jusqu'au pied du glacier...(!).

      Après quelques minutes de marche, un grondement sourd se fait entendre. Le son s'amplifie, et bientôt nous faisons face à une gigantesque cascade. Le débit est incroyablement fort, et nous trempe instantanément lorsque nous empruntons la passerelle qui l'enjambe.

      L'eau vive du cours d'eau que nous suivons provient directement du glacier, sa couleur l'atteste, et le froid qui s'en dégage également !

      Des panneaux nous indiquent l'endroit jusqu'où s'étendait le glacier sur différentes périodes de sa vie, nous faisant prendre la mesure de sa petitesse actuelle et la vitesse de sa fonte.

      Ce bras du glacier est célèbre en raison d'un coup de projecteur international reçu dans les années 90. Durant cette période, le glacier enregistrait des données à contre-courant des autres glaciers européens : il s'accroissait ! Malheureusement, ce phénomène n'a pas perduré. Depuis les années 2000, le glacier ne fait que reculer. Si bien que les scientifiques prédisent une scission à court terme du bras avec le reste du glacier, faisant de Briksdalsbreen un élément indépendant du Jostedalsbreen. L'alpinisme y est donc maintenant interdit en raison du danger.

      Parvenu•e•s au sommet, nous comtemplons la magnificence de la couleur de la glace. Nous sommes sans voix devant cette atmosphère paisible et glaciale. Le glacier dévale la montagne et coule en de frêles cascades formant un lac à l'eau turquoise à ses pieds. Nous restons un moment à profiter en silence de la beauté fragile et éphémère de cet endroit, songeant au fait que nous n'aurons certainement jamais l'occasion de le revoir.
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    • Day 30

      Voss à Flåm

      September 23 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      Journée d'émerveillement devant le spectacle qui défile sous mes yeux...malgré le léger désagrément de l'achalandage de centaines de touristes. Je ne peux pas leur en vouloir, j'en fais partie, après tout 🫣🤐
      Un premier trajet en autobus jusqu'à Gudvangen, puis croisière sur le Nærøyfjorden jusqu'à Flåm. Je suis sans mot et même ému devant le paysage...
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    • Day 12

      Norway of life

      September 26 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

      Ce matin, j’ai découvert le point de vue où j’ai dormi. Le défilé a commencé dès 8h et est monté crescendo pour l’apothéose de 11h avec les cars touristiques. Du coup, j’ai filé à Balestrand voir une église du style dragon.Read more

    • Day 17–18

      Trains and Flåm

      September 28 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

      We left our Oslo accommodation on Saturday early at 7:30am and headed to the train station. Our first train ride was on the Bergen line to a station called Myrdal which is 1110m above sea level. This was approximately a 5 hour train ride and our first scenic Euro train which was so nice. The trip went sooo fast! We literally both just looked out the window and listened to music as it was so pretty. When we got off at Myrdal because we were high in the mountains it was snowing! It was Iesha’s first time seeing snow fall so she was jumping up and down with excitement. It didn’t even feel that cold. The next train was on the Flåm railway line which is considered to be one of the most scenic in the world.. A lot of it went through tunnels which was annoying but when it wasn’t the train would drive slowly so we could all observe the pretty scenery. We then arrived at Flåm, a tiny Norwegian village on the Fjord which looks like something from a postcard. We both couldn’t believe how picturesque it was. We checked into our accommodation for the night which was the cutest cabin amongst the mountains. We headed to the local brewery for some food and did a beer tasting (quite average but good considering they make it in the tiny village). We wondered around the town and visited the Flåm railway museum which is actually very interesting and gave the history on how the steep railway was made - pretty mind blowing. We then had a very scenic pizza and wine dinner on the balcony of our cabin. The next day we did a hike up the mountain to see the Brekkefossen waterfall. It was a steep hike with 532 steps. The view from the top overlooked Flåm and the fjord which was gorgeous. We ended our time in Flåm sitting by the water with hot chocolates and sandwiches. We then prepared ourself for our first fjord boat ride…Read more

    • Day 20

      Sognefjord cruises

      October 1 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

      We took 2 boats along the Sognefjord: one to travel from Flåm to Balestrand (1 hour) and the other from Balestrand to Bergen (4 hours). They were both the smoothest rides ever, with glassy water and beautiful vistas. So glad we did this method of travel to see the fjords. There was no sea sickness and the weather was perfect!Read more

    • Day 8

      On the road - leaving Brygge to Larvik

      September 7, 2019 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

      Wir lieben die schmalen Serpentinen Norwegens, die durch wunderschöne Landschaften führen. Wenn jetzt noch das Wetter mitspielen würde, wären wir mehr als zufrieden. Aufgewacht sind wir heute in Gudvangen am Nærøydalselvi, umgeben von Wasserfällen.Read more

    • Day 48

      Wednesday continued

      October 16, 2019 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      Well here we are, back in Bergen at the Scandic hotel we stayed at before we left. What an amazing 12 days we had, and we are now recovering from it all being over! This morning was a little weird...we had breakfast and then had to vacate the cabins by 10. Which was not a problem, all the bags were left out in the corridor and were taken away by magic and we had to claim them when we disembarked. All is so well organised, Norwegians are a bit like Swiss and Germans, everything is worked out and runs like clockwork. After 12 days, we arrived back at Bergen at exactly 2.30pm! And we disembarked deck by deck....very orderly.

      Our journey this morning was through more interesting and scenic views - we had not seen this before as it had been nighttime as we left Bergen at 9pm. So wonderful to go through these straits of thousands of rock islands - requires excellent navigation skills and knowledge, as many submerge at high tide. As we approached Bergen we saw a very low cloud, and it obviously was raining...oh well, we thought, i has been so perfect for 12 days, we can’t complain, but by the time we actually got there, it had cleared up and we felt so good that we wheeled our bags back to the hotel rather than indulge in a taxi - we are now familiar with Bergen and there was no time constraint... and the weather has continued cloudy bright for the afternoon!

      After checking in and showering Amr and I had a lovely walk through the little streets that we hadn’t explored before and the ended up meeting Carole and John at the fish restaurant where we had had a lovely dinner before we left. Again a lovely dinner - I had mussels and scallops. Yum.

      Now back at hotel for a fairly early night as we leave by train at 7.57am for the train to Oslo. So looking forward to this train trip, reputed to be one of the most beautiful train rides in the world. The sun rises at 8.20 so I think we have maximised the daylight. Get to Oslo about 3pm. And luckily breakfast at the hotel starts at 6.30, so we can eat and leave - the train station is only about 3 minutes walk from the hotel...perfect! Tomorrow a new adventure, we spend 2 nights in Oslo, then fly to Copenhagen and have 3 nights there before heading home.
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    • Day 49

      Thursday and in Oslo

      October 17, 2019 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

      A big day today. Up early for breakfast (the huge hotel buffet - almost as much choice as on the ship)...and then sad farewell to Carole and John who had come down early for coffee to say goodbye. Then we walked the very short distance to the train station. The train left as scheduled at exactly 7.57, and arrived at Oslo at exactly 14.45. It was a beautiful rail journey as reputed to be. Thinking about it, I think it would be better to do it in the opposite direction as you would leave the big city, go trough the usual industrial boring bit round a city, then get into the pretty flatter, then undulating countryside and farming land that gradually turns into mountains and ending in spectacular scenery as you get to Bergen! Of course, I don’t wish we had done that because it wouldn’t have worked for us, but after 2 weeks of such amazing and spectacular scenery, it did get a bit less as we approached Oslo. And 7 hours is quite a long ride. I am still feeling the shuddering movement of the train whenever I am still...very off putting! But I don’t think I’ve done justice to the train ride. It was amazing - we climbed (though you didn’t realise it as we went) up high into the mountains beautiful panoramas, then it was very snowy and quite whited out for a while, then that gradually lessened as we descended and came into obviously more moderate terrain where there were fields, ploughed and soggy looking, and grazing animals. Very different from the totally rocky crags and water of the last 2 weeks.

      So here we are in the big city. And we have had our first - almost - Scandinavian rain. We found our hotel, very near the central station, and went walking round getting our bearings. Walked along the main pedestrian road that leads to the royal palace, surrounded by beautiful gardens, and it did start to sprinkle a little...so eventually we went back to get umbrellas and coats, but it never became heavy, just very light drops, but you’d get damp if you didn’t have some protection. We did then go to inspect the opera house that is nearby. And it is magnificent! Very modern and angular..sloping and you can walk up the slope on the roof...very hard to describe and neither of us had our phones to take photos, and anyway the sky was all grey and it wouldn’t have been a good photo...will take some tomorrow.

      We have great plans for tomorrow - the Viking museum, the resistance museum, the Nobel museum and the sculpture gardens. Hope it is not too grey a day. We are again facing the extremely high prices here - had been insulated rather on the boat not having to buy meals etc...but we drew the line when to go to the loo at the station cost 6 kroner - that is equivalent to $3.50 - just for a pee! So we decided it was time to have a glass of wine, and use the loo there.

      We had dinner at an Italian restaurant - Olivia - the same chain where we had our first meal in Bergen! We loved the Norwegian food on the boat, but suddenly couldn’t face more fish and felt like pasta. I had ravioli with fungi and truffles, yum, and a delicious salad.

      Will put a couple of photos from the train, but not good through a window when moving...and there were many tunnels during the most spectacular times, and I took several photos of tunnel interiors, missing the moment of view! Hope I feel more normal after a night’s sleep.
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    • Day 4

      Adventure Day - Brigsdal Gletscher 🗻

      October 17, 2022 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

      Unser Tag begann im Dunkeln um 6.45 Uhr, Frühstück und pünktlich um 8.30 Uhr wurden wir zum Tender Pit gerufen. Warm angezogen, bei 3 Grad ging es mit dem Tenderboot nach Loen.
      Dort erwartete uns bereits der Bus für den von uns gebuchten Ausflug " Mit Trollcars zum Brigsdal Gletscher".
      Die Busfahrt dauerte etwa 40 min. entlang des Nordfjord. Dann ging es in Serpentinen 10 min. hinauf mit den Trollcars Richtung Gletscher, bevor wir das letzte Stück bis zum Gletschersee zu Fuß zurückgelegt haben.
      Am Weg stehen Infotafeln, die verdeutlichen, wie weit der Gletscher um 1700, 1800 bzw. noch 1907 gereicht hat.
      Erschreckend der Rückgang, denn wahrscheinlich ist in wenigen Jahren nicht einmal mehr die Gletschzunge zu sehen.
      Auf dem gleichen Weg ging es retour, aber wir sind nicht direkt wieder aufs Schiff.
      Loen hat noch ein Highlight, den Skylift. Eine der steilsten Seilbahnen, die uns in 5 min. von 0 auf 1011 m gebracht hat. Das Ticket dazu war wieder für alle Hurtigruten Gäste inklusive.
      Auch wenn es mich Überwindung gekostet hat....es war toll!
      Oben ein paar kleine Aussichtspunkte mit Blick auf den Nordfjord, unser Schiff und die schneebedeckten Berge.
      15.25 Uhr begann die Fahrt durch den Fjord und nun haben wir Gelegenheit, die Landschaft von Bord aus zu genießen.
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    • Day 4

      Es schaukelt wieder🌊

      October 17, 2022 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      Pünktlich zum Ende des Abendessens verläßt das Schiff den Nordfjord und die Schaukelei beginnt wieder.
      Gegen 21.00 Uhr fahren wir am Westkapp vorbei, sehen können wir es nicht. Es ist stockfinster draußen.

      PS: Es lag vor 2 Tagen übrigens nicht an der Schaukelei, daß es mir schlecht ging. Es war das Creme Dessert zum Mittagessen. Andere Mitreisende teilten das gleiche Schicksal.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Sogn og Fjordane Fylke, Sogn og Fjordane

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