Storms Coming

We had hoped to go to Trafalgar Falls but Brian has been nervous about the storm and sent out several email last night, on to weather guru Chris Parker. In the morning he woke to a message saying toЧитать далее
We had hoped to go to Trafalgar Falls but Brian has been nervous about the storm and sent out several email last night, on to weather guru Chris Parker. In the morning he woke to a message saying to be out of Dominica by today at Sundown.
With that info, we made haste in leaving the anchorage in the early morning hours, around 7am, and headed 45 miles North to Pointe a Pitre, Guadeloupe. We anchored outside of the Bas du Fort Marina and got chased away by Stephane on the catamaran, and found a spot in a crowded area, close to the museum…. So many derelict boats around! We went to check in and hopefully get laundry. Issue with the Dingy dock and check in lead to lots of tension between Brian and I…. After a long walk, I cooled down and all was fine again. We went to get water and then decided to see if we could find a Doctor for his finger. Luckily we did and he got to use his French with people in the waiting room and the Doc. The finger looks ok and he suggested it was too covered up and gave a prescription for some antiseptic wash and special bandaids.
After the Doctor we went to a restaurant and had lamb and duck in the waterfront. The same one that we bought water… and meant Steve (Aussie) and Anne (France) travelling on there Catamaran with plans to go around the world (with there dog) or at least the Straights of Timor.
Off to the all to small dingy dock to travel back to Lorena. We are close to the slave museum which we may go to tomorrow.Читать далее
Up early and impressed that we hadn’t moved much as we checked the anchor alarm. We chatted about letting out more chain given the impending storm and the fact that the winds were going to clock. 15 minutes later, I was in the aft cabin and Brian started yelling. Our anchor had come loose and dragged to within 5 feet of another boat. His quick response of starting the engine and me, getting the snubber off and lifting up the anchor, we bid sorry to our neighbors for the scare and tried to find another spot. We went around the corner to anchor but were not holding and worried we would hit the rocks by the muse sun. Then we headed across the fairway to Banc de couillon anchorage. Once settled, we headed back to the Marina to drop off laundry and then to take the dingy around the corner to Pointe a Pitre. We went for a walk and saw a sign for a museum of a poet that Brian was familiar with. We walked to the town square that was a big market and bought lots of fruit and vegetables. We then found the the Saint-John Perse museum and toured it, and then to the bookstore to buy his poetry and several other works French works that interested Brian. I got a nice gel pen.
We walked around a bit more and then headed back to the boat. We zipped around to other boats beside us: Sara and Jay from Alberta on an Amel 56, Francis and Laura on a Jeunneau 38 from Boston, and a boat flying a Swiss flag and a guy named Rex that had 8 people on it. Come to Lorena for a Sundowner at 6pm.
We got back to the boat and I had to work, and had a conference call at 5pm. During my call the winds started to really pick up (the storm we were waiting for) and I had to turn on the cabin light.
By 6pm it had started raining and the winds howling so no one came and we ate charcuterie for supper. The anchorage felt safe and there was no swell, but the wind was howling so it was a bit scary to go to sleep in such.Читать далее
ПутешественникAre you in point a pitre? Great time to practice your Francais! Weather seems very rough, so I feel for you. We are all thinking of you. Manju and Sheila say it's not the same walking without you
ПутешественникWe have been moving around a lot this week, so I am just trying to get caught up on the blog. We are now in Trois Ilets, Martinique.
We stayed put during the storm and had a leisurely morning. We heard lots of reports of other boats not doing so well and crashing into shores in Dominica and Martinique. We were happy with our decision to co to a “gunk hole” an anchorage protected on all 4 sides… even though it was very close to shipping channels.
We had to go into the Marina and check out of the country and pick up laundry. Typically it is $8-10US but it ended up being $65 and the clothes were not even clean (the sheets still had blood stains, that I spray shout on, from Brian’s finger). Katia was running late so we went to a shop and bought some shorts for Brian, looked for a heat shield for the alternator and a few things from Carrefour Express grocery.
Back to Lorena and hoisted the anchor to set off south again. We deliberated with sailing all night to Martinique, but decided to stop at Marie Gallant at dusk. We stayed about 3 miles NW of Grand Bourg and basically dropped anchor in the sea (not in a bay as per usual)… the depth was 25ft and it was a designated anchorage.
We had a nice 25 mile sail but the wind was cool and I actually had a long sleeve shirt and a sweater on the journey.Читать далее
ПутешественникGrand bourg looks like the main town of Marie Galante. Seems to be a great place for nice fruit and espresso coffee a la francaise!
Rough night sleep, went to cabin crew and then to V-Berth to try and sleep as we rolled a lot. We were going to explore St Pierre area and hopefully do a pastel, but the anchorage was not great and the boat that had washed ashore and was crashing against the rocks, was disconcerting. Brian decided that he wanted to leave and go to Trois Ilets, so we hoisted anchor and went headed out. We motor sailed most of the way, and put our jib up as we entered the Fort-de-France harbour area. There was a race happening, so we skirted it and headed to the anchorage. Brian wanted to anchor close to town so he could do a pastel from the boat…. The charts said we had 16ft below so we dropped the anchor. It was about 60ft out when we went aground 😮. Luckily the anchor was able to pull us off the ground and get us free. We moved to a new anchorage that was quiet and set the anchor right away.
Once we put everything away, we decided to look at AIS again as Brian wanted to get it fixed. We hooked it up to my computer and ran a diagnostic and update and it seemed to disable it completely. Initially we just were not transmitting… now we have no receiving.
Lots of interesting boats around us that look derelict but have people in them.
We had a nice evening in a quiet bay and went to bed early as both of us slept poorly last night.Читать далее
Up at dawn after a good night sleep, even though I was nervous to sleep in our anchorage. We had a 10 -12hr sail today. At some points we were going 7-8knots and we made good time going on the westward side of Dominica 🇩🇲. The landscape was rugged and beautiful, passing some waterfalls and tiny villages. We crossed the straight to Martinique and were welcomed by windmills, rainbows and gorgeous green hills. We got to St Pierre at dusk and anchored outside of the town. We had tuna ready to grill after a long voyage… unfortunately, the propane and a vital part of the BBQ fell into the sea creating one frustrated captain. We through it on the skillet and it was just as good!
The pitch and swells in the Bay is more than we anticipated. Should be an interesting night! It still has left over casualty from the storm as a sailboat is on the rock about 250ft from us. Hopefully it will calm as the town sounds great. It is at the base of a once active volcano, My Pelee.Читать далее
Up and about this morning and saw Ashlynn’s photos of her getting ready to deliver the cherry berries on a cloud to all her friends. A few days ago I mentioned to Brian that I was missing all my friends and it was the downside to boat life. Inspired by Ashlynn I took the morning to sit in the V-berth and write a Valentines Day Card to Brian ~ Had fun coming up with names to describe him on the envelop. Also pre wrote notes to a bunch of friends that I will send out early tomorrow to convey how special they are to me, even when I am not around or in contact. It is amazing how gratitude, or even thinking about people I love, puts me in such good spirits. I was happy all day, although Brian was not feeling the same… still worried about his finger and frustrated with his art and the boat work.
I dabbled some with work and then switched course and grabbed the chisel and hammer and started to remove all the bungs on the window frames. They came out easy, and I got better at doing it, although some had a lot of epoxy so it took ok big chunks of wood and varnish.
There was a Salty Dawgs gathering at the dingy dock in Fort-de-France, so we decided to be social and join. It is red day at the Carnivale but I had none. We headed to Trois Ilet to catch the ferry over. We didn’t think we would get on as the line was SO long, but we made it, and off we went on this high powered fast boat, across the bay. We arrived slightly early and while waiting and looking for the Dawgs, a really intoxicated man covered in molasses was trying to engage with use. Finally we saw Bab’s and Tim — and met their friends Danata and Neil. Neil is an Emerg Doc so he took a quick look at Brian’s hand and said it was healing fine…. A relief as it still looks mangled.
We chatted with Nikki and Barry, Tim, Sandy and Todd, Kathy and a few others before wandering off to glimpse at Carnivale and the loud music and noise. We didn’t stay long and headed back to the ferry line. It was really long and we waited 60-90min to catch the ferry back. It was a nice ride and actually a nice time standing in line and chatting. Brian is so knowledgeable about art and literature and has read thousands of books, so he always has a story to tell. On the ferry ride to FDF he was talking about trying to get the depth correct on his s etch of the boat and women beside us, and how to create more fore- shortening.
We were exhausted from all the noise so had a quick bite to eat and I actually fell asleep in the chair.Читать далее
Up early to a loud party noise around 5:30am that continued for an hour or more. We realized it must be Carnival but didn’t know what part of it. We spent some time working and tidying up from the sail, washing salt off the windows and then we needed to head to the ferry dock and make our way to immigration. It was around 11:30am when we arrived and the ferry just came in. There was much of a line, but confusing over how to get tickets. We had to redo it at the kiosk, 7 euro round trip to Fort-de-France, the ferry waited and we headed over. Fun to take the ferry… last time I had a ride like that was 15 or more years ago in Bermuda. When we got in, it was clearly the start of Carnival and everything seemed to be shut down. We looked for immigration but was told they were closed and would not reopen untill Thursday or Friday. We decided to eat at Suzette’s crepes and had a great meal… with Brian encouraging me to order or speak in French. Then we explored around the town but pretty much everything was closed. We had fun weaving in and out, up and down around the streets, Brian talked to a biker gang/guys, who invited him to have a shot.
We were going to head back to the boat but heard that the Carnival was goi g to start at 4pm (Caribbean time…lol). It wasn’t very organized, but we stayed and watched in the Center median for awhile… lots of people, particularly little kids, covered in molasses. It was Brides day…. The day in waiting… and lots of men dressed as women.
We eventually bumped into people that Brian knew, Salty Dawgs, Barbara and Ted on a Catamaran. We talked about Brian’s finger and they invited us back to their boat for drinks and antibiotics. Back on the Cat we had water, and got some newer Neosporin to apply. We had chesse, dates, hummus and veggies and great conversation. They took us back to the dingy dock and we grabbed the ferry back to our very quiet anchorage of Trois Ilets.Читать далее
Happy Valentine’s Day! ❤️
I sent out all my Valentines and gave a nice card to Brian in the morning. We had our usual coffee and writing and then lounged about, responding to friends messages in the morning.
I did some work on the computer for a few hours and also sanded down the bung holes on 4 of the 8 window frames, to prep them for stain, sealer and gloss.
Brian made calls, trying to reach Garmin about the AIS and get replacement parts for the BBQ. He also did some sketching of the boat beside us.
We decided to go explore Trois Ilets and find a spot where Brian could do a pastel. He usually likes to do it from the dingy, but couldn’t find a suitable place so we went to shore and walked around untill a scene caught his eye. He perched on a inconspicuous veranda and worked his magic while I sat on the curb and read. Carnival is still happening and today was black and while day, with lots of people and noise buzzing about. After he finished we walked further, stopped at a bakery and had a treat (I had macarons and he an almond croissant).
We climbed back down to the dingy, amidst the people in line for the ferry, heading to Carnival, and started back towards Lorena. Brian encouraged me to drive the tender, so I did so…. It’s been awhile since I used a tiller.
Rod Morris (#4 & 26) are the names of the batteries on the boat that are check often, and are usually around 20-40%. They don’t seem to charge when the engine runs, so the generator has to be running to charge them. We usually run it in the morning, and then while preparing supper. Tonight was Salmon (on the stovetop as BBQ is outta commission), Okra and French cheese.
I returned to work for a couple hours while Brian continued sketching, talked to his son Ian (about his wedding, his AI paper and life as a lawyer), and his former nanny (who lived in his parents home till they died), Anita. It is always fun to listen to him chat with Anita in Spanish. They typically talk every Sunday but he called to wish her Happy Valentines Day.
After I shut down the computer, I needed to get some air, as the rain had started earlier and we closed the hatches, so the cabin was getting stuffy. I went to the bow to admire the night view. As I sat down I felt a sharp pain growing in my foot and couldn’t understand why. Brian was coming to join me and said I had been stung, and helped me inside to a bright light. He got the tweezers and pulled out the stinger. We rinsed the area and put a cold compress on. Shortly after we headed to bed and read some more Shakespeare, trying to finish this play ….. saucy and audacious eloquence.Читать далее
Boat chores and work consumed the morning, alone with testing the video feed for tonight’s yoga session at Irishtown Community Centre. We also finished A Mid Summer Nights Dream.
We then made our way into town…. And I drove the dingy. First time, and it went ok. It’s been awhile since I have used a tiller, and I wasn’t able to start it…. But with more practice I’ll get comfortable.
We walked around Trois Ilets looking for a good place to do a pastel, wandered down a private lane, and found a mangrove that overlooked the water, in the area of the sinking sailboat. Brian did a picture in hast as a bugs were bad. We then got back to the boat 15 minutes before I had to log on to teach. Unfortunately, my phone wasn’t charged so I delayed getting on Zoom. My set up worked well, I couldn’t really hear (or see) others, but was able to teach between the gallery and salon. I gave everyone a quick tour while the Brian sat in the pilothouse during my class.
After class we had a BIG salad, gluten free buns and burgers on the skillet. Then queued up the Michelle Phifer movie of Mod Summer Nights Dream and started watching it. We got 30-40 min in and I needed to go to bed.Читать далее
Left Trois Ilets first thing in the morning and had coffee and breakfast in route to La Marin and Sainte Anne, where we hope to get the AIS fixed and finally check into the country. We sailed, well motored, as the wind was on our nose the whole time so we would have had to tack back and forth to get there. Unfortunately, in order to tack you need to furl the jib or stay sail and let it out on the opposite side, not conducive to efficiency, so we took the lazy way. We left at 6:45 and arrived around 11am. There were sections that had lots of pots so I got to sit at the bow and direct Brian through the maze, as we stayed close to shore for most of the trip.
The anchorage is full, but we had no problem setting the anchor and are beside Kalunamoo (Bill and Maureen), former Salty Dawg who were also beside us in the south side of Portsmouth.
We quickly lowered the dingy and attached the engine, something I’ve been doing since Brian hurt his hand. We made rounds to say Hi to a few boats and then headed into La Marin. It took us about 45min and we didn’t follow the red and green so got ourselves into some pretty shallow water, where we had to back track. On the way back to the boat the engine died, but we restarted, then it died again about 15ft from the boat, so we had to row and then Brian spent some time fixing it (water in the fuel).
Earlier in the day we had a tiff as I was trying to clarify what Brian was asking me (about the water tank), he wasn’t understanding my words and then felt I got defensive when he went and showed me. Perhaps he was right. He is a very smart man and usually knows what the remaining of the sentence is, but often I am not looking to be right, just heard. This tension carried on throughout the day, getting shushed at immigration and ignored with regards to directions. When he is on a mission, my words seem to irritate. However, in the large scheme of things it is all minor and truly things that wouldn’t have bothered me before. I am either becoming more sensitive or I just care more about what Brian thinks of me, then others who have come before.
All was resolved by evening. We found the Garmin AIS800! His finger is healing well but it is giving him pause for thought. We had been moving toward keeping the boat in Curacao and then Panama and heading across the canal at Christmas. Now, he is talking about going to the DR and having me fly to Curacao from there, and he will make his way north again, perhaps to Canada.
Either way is fine with me.
We did not find the BBQ piece and Brian put out a message on the Salty Dawgs WhatsApp group looking for a Ventura (part that we need). Later he remembered that he had saved pieces from the old BBQ, and sure enough, he had a spare.
After super we watched another section of A Mid Summer Nights Dream in the pilot house (the Apple computer dropped but still seems ok)…and then off to bed. All in all, another beautiful day in the tropics ☀️🌴Читать далее
ПутешественникAre you going back north or just a little detour to Guadalupe? Very exciting trip but every time you mention the rocky boat. I get seasick just visualizing it. You are a brave soul. Stay good.remember to Ray a jelly nut for me.I would have one every day when I was working there.