Panama
Ogobpuquib

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8 travelers at this place:

  • Day73

    Archipel San Blas, Südkaribik

    October 23 in Panama

    Muchos Saludos de Puerto Lindo!

    Wir sind im kleinen Fischerdörfchen Puerto Lindo angekommen. Morgen soll es losgehen! Wir haben uns in einem kleinen Hostel Namens Wunderbar :-) eingebucht, um unsere Sachen für unseren 6 tägigen Törn nach Cartagena in Kolumbien zu packen. Ganz so wunderbar ist das Dörfchen jedoch nicht. Wir fragen uns von was die Menschen hier leben. Die kleinen Ein-, oder Zweizimmer-Wellblechhäuschen sind zum großen Teil völlig vernachlässigt und die Menschen sitzen scheinbar den ganzen Tag ziellos herum! Ganz schön trist.

    Um fünf Uhr nachmittags ist das Treffen mit unserem kolumbianischen Kapitän Fabian in einem kleinen Restaurant und nach einigen Instruktionen und Informationen flitzt er los, um unsere Ausreiseformalitäten zu klären. Er nimmt unsere Pässe und behält diese bis Cartagena bei sich. Schon komisch, wenn jemand deinen Pass mitnimmt und man sich nicht mehr ausweisen kann...! Nachdem er gegen 20 Uhr wieder kommt, fahren wir mit einem kleinen offenen Boot durch die Nacht in eine Nachbarbucht in der unsere kleine Segelyacht im Hafen liegt.

    Ein schmuckes Stück ist unser 50 Fuss Einmastsegler und ein wenig größer als erwartet. Hätten wir uns ja auch denken können, schließlich sind wir auch zu zwölft, plus Kapitän und 3 weiteren helfenden Händen, die für uns kochen, navigieren und uns begleiten. Wir sind eine bunt gemischte Truppe. Zwei Australier, ein Amerikaner, ein Neuseeländer, ein Engländer, eine Schweizerin und neben uns noch weitere vier Deutsche.

    Es geht nun sechs Tage über die San Blas Inseln quer über die Südkaribik nach Cartagena. Wir Zwei haben uns mit ausreichend Pillchen gegen Seekrankheit ausgestattet. Schließlich haben wir recht wenig Muße auf sechs Tage Übelkeit. Erst um 0:30 brechen wir auf. Der Plan für die ersten Tage ist, dass wir über Nacht unserem Ziel entgegen schaukeln und tagsüber das San Blas Archipel, das aus über 300 kleinen Inselchen bestehende autonome Fleckchen Erde der Kuna Yala, kennen lernen. Die Kuna Yala sind ein Volk, das sehr konservativ in kleinen aus Kokospalmen gebauten Hütten wohnen und überwiegend vom Fischfang leben. Heute aber auch vom Tourismus, wobei sie sich bisher ausnahmslos gegen den Bau von Hotels gewehrt haben :-)

    Es ist ein kleines Paradies hier. Morgens wird eine große Platte tropischer Früchte aufgetischt, dann, nach einem Sprung ins warme Nass erst mal eine "Katzenwäsche" gemacht. Gefischt wird nicht selbst, denn die Kuna sollen unterstützt werden. So kaufen wir vom anfahrenden Einbaumboot erstmal ein dutzend große Langusten, die wir dann abends auf einer der Inseln grillen, hmmm!

    Die Inseln sind überwiegend kaum größer als unser Garten zu Hause. Für einen Tag haben wir vor einer der kleinen Inseln den Anker ausgeworfen und können die Insel für uns nutzen, nachdem unser Kapitän den Kuna dafür bezahlt hat. So öffnen uns die Kuna in Perfektion und Kunst die frischen Kokosnüsse, wir spielen am weißen Strand Volleyball (haben ja unseren Ball dabei 😀) und im Riff vor seiner Insel ist für uns ein Paradies zum Schnorcheln. Die Unterwasserwelt ist umwerfend. Nachdem auf Ariane ein großer Rochen zuschwimmt, steht sie nach nur wenigen Augenblicken kreidebleich am Strand und wird von den in der Hängematte faulenzenden Kuna schmunzelnd und den Worten: Ein Stachelrochen? begrüßt. Es ist wie im Aquarium zu schwimmen. Wir sind umgeben von hunderten bunter Fische und Korallen.

    So schön und traumhaft die Bilder alle aussehen, so zeigen sie nicht den stetig wachsenden Bappigkeitsgrad, den jeder Passagier erfährt - geduscht wird nicht, da Wasser auf See wie Gold ist! Alternativ steht immer ein Bad in der wunderschönen "Salzbadewanne" zur Verfügung, was jedoch das bappige Gefühl auf Haut und Haar nicht weg spülen kann!

    Am Ende des dritten Tages verlassen wir das Archipel in Richtung offene See und jetzt ist's auch mit waschen im Meer nichts mehr. Wir sind gespannt wie es so ist, um sich herum nur noch Wasser zu sehen...

    Bevor wir uns in unsere Kajüte legen, trinken wir noch unseren mitgebrachten Weinbergspfirsich und genießen panamaischen Rum... Die kommende Nacht gleicht dann leider einer Tortur. Es ist eine unerträgliche Hitze in unserer Kajüte und unser Kapitän hat bei Gegenwind den Motor angeworfen, der ohrenbetäubend brummt. Es geht mit Vollgas gegen die Wellen, was dazu führt, daß wir gefühlt eine Achterbahnfahrt in Dauerschleife fahren und mit Pillen betäubt wird der folgende Tag bei gleichen Bedingungen halb verschlafen.

    Natürlich gibt es auch die besonderen Momente auf hoher See. Wir werden mehrfach von Schulen unzähliger Delfine begleitet und bekommen das ein oder andere Mal Besuch verschiedenster Vögel. Man wird schon manches Mal nachdenklich, wenn man in die endlose Ferne schaut und sich die Sonne vor ihrem Untergang im Wellengang spiegelt.

    Noch vor Sonnenaufgang am sechsten Tag morgens um 5 Uhr laufen wir vorbei an riesigen Containerschiffen, aber auch vielen kleinen Seglern wie unserem, im Hafen von Cartagena ein. Wir sind in Südamerika :-) Jetzt gilt es nur noch mal unsere Pässe zu organisieren. Diese hat unser Kapitän hoffentlich zu einem Büro in der Stadt gebracht, welches unsere Einreiseformalitäten regelt. Ein seltsames Prozedere, aber ein Hafen hat ja keinen Grenzübergang! Um 15:00 Uhr haben wir endlich unseren Stempel... Wir sind nun offiziell in Kolumbien 😀

    ... und ab in die Dusche :-)

    Hasta luego
    Ariane y Marco
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  • Day625

    Kuna Yala Part I (San Blas)

    September 24 in Panama

    Finally pirates! #Caribbean #Rum #KunaCulture #IslandHopping

  • Day152

    San Blas Sailing to Colombia

    May 28, 2017 in Panama

    After 5 month in Central America I took a sailboat to get down to Colombia via the San Blas Islands.
    The boat was leaving from Puerto Lindo and we were meeting our captain there in a restaurant at the beach. As it turned out Puerto Lindo wasn't much mire than this restaurant. I got there quite early as my journey on public transport went quite well. Luckily I wasn't the only one. Sam & Kate from Australia were already there as well. I was happy to find I have a lot to talk about with them as we were about to spend a lot of time together on limited space. After a while the rest of the group arrived. Lara from the Netherlands and another couple Hanna & Otto also from the Netherlands.
    We had already spotted our sailboat in the little bay and when we saw two people climbing in the dinghy coming over to the beach we were excited to finally meet our captain. I was thinking if he might speak any english or if this might be another chance to practice my spanish? When he climbed out of the little boat I couldn't believe what I was hearing: a german accent! Captain Erwin was Austrian! But our 2nd crew member was Colombian. Robbie was introduced as our cook but he turned out to also be responsible for our entertainment, cultural exchange, dance lessons and everything else that needed to be done on the boat. We loved Robbie! Erwin was a little grumpy sometimes but in the end he brought us to Colombia save and sound so I guess his grumpiness is excused.
    After introducing himself Erwin told us we wouldn't go to the boat before later that night. His plan was to take our passports to immigration first to get our stamps for leaving Panama. Around 8pm we would go to the boat and have dinner. Then we would go to bed and he would bring us to San Blas over night. So we would wake up in the beautiful islands!
    So far the plan. After spending the afternoon exploring the 2 streets of Puerto Lindo, using the only available WIFI in a diving school for the last contact to the outside world and learning a new dutch game called "Regenworm" (dutch for earthworm) we finally went over to our sailboat and got to inspect our new home for the next days. The boat could take a group of 10 + 2 staff. As we were only 6 we actually had a lot more space then normally. Under deck there were 2 cabins in the back which were taken by our two couples. Lara and I shared the front cabin which was supposed to be for 4 (it was still less spacious as this might sound. Robbie and the captain would be sleeping in the salon which was also the kitchen. On deck there was a table with 2 benches in the cockpit. This was where we would have dinner and spend most of our time while the boat was moving.
    While we were having dinner we could see lightning out on the ocean. Our captain said he had to see if we could leave during the night depending on the weather conditions. When we started to get ready for bed the storm suddenly hit really hard. It felt like we were in the center of the thunder within seconds. The boat was moved so heavy by the storm that our anchor got pulled out so we had to lift it up. The captain shouted at us to stay under deck with the lights of as he wasn't able to see otherwise. We were surrounded by other boats in the bay of Puerto Lindo and he was trying not to hit anyone. That moment was pretty creepy as the boot was shaking pretty wild and turning in circles, we couldn't see anything with the lights off and we didn't know what was going on at that time.
    When the storm was gone the captain came down and told us we wouldn't be leaving tonight but wait till the next morning. So we climbed into bed and hoped for better conditions the next day.
    I woke up quite early in the morning and climbed out to the cockpit where the captain was already preparing to finally leave. We started moving towards the islands soon after and the others started coming out of there beds as well. The sea was kind of rough and it was raining on and off. But I still liked staring out to the horizon just seeing water and sky. It makes you feel free.
    Soon the first people started announcing they felt sick. Like recommended we had all brought seasickness medication but as they are supposed to make you pretty tired I didn't want to take any. But I also didn't feel to bad. And whenever I started feeling a little sick I would just concentrate on the horizon for a moment and felt better soon after. People started moving to the back of the boat where the captain had told us was the best place for throwing up.
    But I felt fine. I was confident I wouldn't get seasick and the longer nothing happened the prouder I was. I felt great! Until I didn't. Suddenly I couldn't get to the back of the boat fast enough to say goodbye to my breakfast. This made me laugh. Pretty stupid to be to proud to take medication if this is the result.
    The captain told us the best thing to do was probably to try to get some sleep. Most people went back to the cabins but as I didn't really like being under deck with little airflow and no chance to look outside I just climbed to the front of the boat and laid down on deck to sleep. This became my favorite spot and I was there whenever possible.
    After about 7 hours we could finally see the Islands ahead of us! We anchored in front of our first island and finally jumped into the ocean! After a while the captain took us over to the island where Robbie was already preparing a BBQ for dinner. We explored the little island which took about 10 minutes. There were a few little hats on the island where about 10 people where living. They didn't have much but a solar panel to generate electricity and an antenna to receive radio. Suddenly one of the little girls pulled out a tablet. Maybe they were more advanced than you would think.
    The food was amazing! Ribs and all kind of meat from the BBQ with different fresh salads and potatoes.
    After dinner we chilled for a while on the island but asked Robbie to go back to the boat quite soon as we were all quite tired. Even though we all slept a little during the day the whole "trying not to get seasick" was more exhausting than you would think. When Robbie tried to start the dinghy to bring us back to the sailboat it turned out the motor wasn't working anymore. Robbie and Sam ended up paddling us back.
    The next morning I was the first to wake up again except for the captain and Robbie who was already fixing the dinghy. I jumped into the ocean right away. We stayed here till breakfast and left for the second island after. Going from island to island the sea was pretty calm so no need to worry about seasickness along the way. When we got to the second island we jumped into the water and swam over to the island. The sand here was made from tiny peaces of shell and would just run through your fingers and of your skin without sticking. We girls couldn't stop playing around with it and were sitting in the shallow water talking till our skin started to wrinkle.
    Back on the boat we all had a shower on the back of the boat (yes same spot as we went for seasickness) and put on something that felt a little more like proper clothes (so far I had only been wearing my bikini and maybe some shirt or my rain jacket when the weather asked for it). We all were a little more in the mood for a nice night on the island than the day before. We had another nice dinner with a traditional soup made from shells and fresh fish from the BBQ.
    We had some Cuba Libres and started dancing around the bonfire. Robbie was our DJ and dance instructor for the night. But as it turned out keeping a fire going wasn't one of his strength. He put a huge palm leaf over the fire which wasn't really dry and nearly killed it. But luckily the people living on the island saved it. We were wondering how weird it must be to live on an island like this and have people coming over every other night who dance around a bonfire to funny music...
    When we got back to the boat for the night I didn't feel like sleeping down in our cabin. So I climbed through the hatch (Lara and I had discovered this shortcut earlier) and lay down on top of the boat. You could see so many stars and even make out the milky way.
    The next morning we left for our final island before breakfast. When we got there we went snorkeling around the island and only got back to the boat for breakfast. This was when the clouds finally completely dissolved. With a blue sky the islands looked even more beautiful. Originally our captain wanted to leave right after breakfast to make sure we would get to Cartagena the next day in time for immigration but we convinced him to stay till lunch as we did miss our first day in the islands and wanted to take advantage of the sun finally being out.
    After lunch we started what would be a 30 hour trip across the ocean towards Colombia. This time I figured I shouldn't be to proud again and took the seasickness medication. As it turned out it didn't make me tired at all. I was chilling in my favorite spot in the front most of the time and as it turned out with the medication I was even able to read without getting sick. When it got dark I was laying on the deck with Lara watching the moon and the stars showing up one by one the darker it got. Obviously we started philosophical talks about how small we felt down here while watching the stars. This is one of this moments I will never forget. Laying there with nothing than water everywhere around on this tiny boat under the sky...
    After dinner it felt to dark to climb back to the front (you really don't wanna go over board in the dark) so I went to bed quite early. When I lay down I realized how much our cabin in the front of the boat was actually moving (I hadn't really been down here a lot while we were moving). In between it almost felt like a free fall when the boat was crashing over the waves. With the medication I was confident I wouldn't get sick so the jumping was quite fun for a while. Until I realized I was supposed to sleep like this. It took me a while but I fell asleep at some point. Still it was definitely the worst night. As the dinghy was laying on top of the boat we couldn't open our hatch so there was no airflow. I woke up every few hours feeling hot and sticky. I was happy when it was finally morning and I could get back onto deck. Ahead of us lay another full day on the ocean. When Sam got up he told me the wind should be alright now to actually sail (so far we had only gone by motor without even setting a single sail). So for a while we at least opened the front sail.
    After breakfast we were all chilling on deck when Sam suddenly pointed out dolphins in the far. I had heard that dolphins like to join boats but I didn't expect what happened next. A group of nearly 20 dolphins came closer and closer till they were really close, swimming and jumping around our boat. Kate said: "It doesn't matter how often you have seen dolphins, they always make you happy!" True thing. Especially when they are free like this!
    We spend the rest of the day on deck and in the cockpit. Our biggest concern today turned out to be the sun. There wasn't a lot of shade on the boat so we had to be creative. We got out sheets and towels to fix them on whatever was there to generate some shade. By this time everybody had a hand on the seasickness so we were even able to play another round of the dutch game of earthworms.
    After over 24 hours of only seeing water everywhere around us we were quite excited when we could finally make out Colombia ahead of us. Cartagena turned out to have quite a skyline (I didn't remember it like this from last year). We got closer while the sun was going down behind us. When we set anchor in the harbor of Cartagena it was already 8pm which was to late for immigration so we had to spend another night on the boat. Robbie went into town (I guess he was allowed to set foot on land as an Colombian) to get Pizza for all of us. Tonight Kate & Sam and Hannah & Otto joined me sleeping on top of the boat. The next morning I watched the sun rise behind the skyline. A nice last image in my head of this amazing trip full of unbelievable beautiful images.
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  • Day119

    San Blas Islands

    September 2, 2015 in Panama

    I had a restless night kept awake by my cough. At 5am I gave up and went up on deck to watch the lightning storm followed by sunrise. I managed to get back to sleep for a short while before pancakes with maple syrup and fruit were served for breakfast.

    Shortly after, we anchored at our first stop - just off 2 islands (Acuakargana & Waisaladup) which were about 200m long and 50m wide. We assumed they were uninhabited but later found out that they weren't. We all jumped in the water to cool off and stretch our unused limbs. We grabbed some snorkel gear and swam to the beach. I didn't see much on the way, it was mostly seagrass. Others saw a huge ray and some squid.

    Once at the shore, we wandered around the tropical island paradise. The boys then tried to knock down some coconuts and we swam back to the boat. This time I saw lots more nice corals but not much else.

    Back on the boat we were told we're not allowed to take the coconuts as they are harvested by the local people but the boys continued to hack into them (a long process with a swiss army knife) and will give some money for them later.

    We had a lunch of a ginormous veggie burger with yucca chips which left us completely stuffed. I fell asleep and we missed the boat to shore to see the tiny Kuna village so swam instead. Once there, flies were biting me and my cough was hurting so I swam back and 'found' the huge reef we'd missed earlier, which had loads of beautiful corals. Just as everyone got back via the dinghy the heavens opened and it poured down. Anna brought me back a coconut which was small but delicious.

    Dinner was spag bol, but tomato pasta for me, despite me saying I didn't want anything special - very sweet! Followed by a 4 litre tub of ice cream with papaya cake. We sat and watched a huge thunder and lightning storm and swapped travellers tales before heading to bed just after 10pm.

    I slept really well with not a cough in sight until 3:30am when I woke up roasting - the hatches to our rooms had been closed due to the rain. I went up on deck and lay on one of the benches under the canvas cover. Goeran warned me it was wet but it was blissfully cool in comparison to down below. I lay there with my sarong for a blanket and listened to the amazing pouring rain and loud thunder whilst watching lightning light up the skies every few seconds. Goeran was up pacing all night despite being shattered from the crossing - it was one of the worst storms in a while and he was worried about the anchor coming loose and us ending up on the nearby reefs. After an hour, I was a bit too wet for comfort and went back down to bed. We opened the door to the sweat box and it was more bearable and I slept through until 9am which felt blissful.
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