Portugal
Distrito de Viana do Castelo

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    • Dag 5

      Une journée tumultueuse!

      14 september 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

      Oufff, mais quelle journée !! Il y en aura des certes meilleures! Nous avions notre premier rendez-vous avec notre campervan. C'était quand même excitant !! Évidemment, on pacte nos bagages, c'est la cohue un peu avec les enfants... Excités... Nico rencontre la personne qui nous loue son camper, histoire de signer le contrat et qu'elle nous explique en gros certains détails. Car d'un campervan à l'autre, il y a toujours des subtilités !! Nico revient avec toutes les informations. Il a dû garer le campervan dans une ruelle... Cul-de-sac. Avec une seule voie. Donc, c'est assez étroit pour se tourner de bord, mais il réussit quand même et se gare devant le garage de l'édifice où on est, histoire de mettre les bagages dedans. Un bon 30 minutes plus tard (toujours long avec des enfants hahaha) on part! Yeah !!! Mais finalement, nonnnn. Une foutue voiture nous bloque l'accès. Si on passe, on égratigne sa voiture et la nôtre. Nic a essayé à plusieurs reprises, mais vraiment, il n'y a rien à faire. Il doit refaire le trajet à reculons et se stationner devant l'entrée du garage où plusieurs personnes doivent entrer et sortir... Donc, pas trop évident de rester planter la jusqu'à tant que Monsieur voiture grise aille déplacer sa voiture !!!

      Félix pleure, Samuel est impatient. Ils ne comprennent pas trop ce qui se passe ... Une dame doit entrer dans l'édifice, alors Nico recule le camper pour la laisser passer. Recule, avance, recule, avance. Elle lui indique qu'elle repassera à nouveau dans 5 minutes.

      Lorsqu'elle repasse, elle nous fait signe que le véhicule en question ne devrait y être. Elle appelle la police histoire de nous secourir un peu !! Gentille dame !!

      Je vais quand même où l'auto prendre des photos. Je me dis, si la personne est dans le coin elle va déplacer sa voiture et comprendre qu'on ne peut pas passer...

      Presque une heure plus tard, un policier arrive et évidemment... Au moment même où il va voir l'auto, bien le bonhomme court déplacer sa foutue bagnole. Le prix du ticket aurait été très salé…

      Sinon, chapeau au policier qui est resté jusqu'à la toute fin pour s'assurer qu'on parte. On aurait dû reprendre un virage de 145 degrés, mais étant gros de même, pas été capable. Alors le policier nous a raccompagnés sens inverse jusqu'à l'autoroute.... Bon, une aventure qui se termine bien sans accrochage !!!

      En route vers de nouvelles aventures. Le sanctuaire de Santa Luzia. Le trajet se fait bien, mais nous sommes déjà rendus à l'heure de dîner. Il n'y a pas grand-chose qu'on peut se mettre sous la dent rapidement alors on décide d'aller au PFK. Arkkkk!!! Il n'y avait que ça parce que même à QC, on n'a jamais été là depuis très longtemps !!!

      Arrivés à destination, il ne fait pas très beau, mais nous avons tout de même le temps de contempler la vue sur la ville de Castello de Viena et une petite visite du sanctuaire. En revenant, nous voulions faire le trajet pour nous rendre au parc national de Geres. Mais il tombe tellement des cordes que nous avons décidé de rester au sommet pour la nuit! Quelle nuit mouvementée avec un petit Félix qui n'a pas arrêté de se réveiller et de nous laisser réveiller pendant quelques heures !! Bien hâte d'entamer demain !!!
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    • Dag 6

      Village de Soajo dans les montagnes

      15 september 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Après cette journée à toutes épreuves, nous nous levons avec notre réveil matin préféré de Samuel : Papaaaaaaa, mamannnnnm!! Alors très courte nuit et évidemment, tout le monde se réveille. Il faudra se fixer des règles mais on commence notre aventure en campervan. Donc pas le choix de s'ajuster.

      On déjeune au pied du Sanctuaire et en partant de là, petites emplettes faites à l'épicerie, il est déjà l'heure de dîner.

      On se dit que nous allons en profiter et aller dans la ville tout prêt, Castello de Viena. On cherche un stationnement, quand même un moment et ensuite, nous sommes à la recherche de notre resto 4,5. Mais il n'est pas trouvable! En fait, quelques restos sont fermés après l'été. Donc, on arrête dans un restaurant du coin. On y va avec la recommandation du serveur... Bon, note à nous-même : ne plus prendre la recommandation du serveur surtout s'il ne parle que portugais !!! Pas évident de converser et poser nos questions! Nous sommes près de l'eau dans le port avec un grand bateau devant nous. Je m'attendais à une super assiette de poissons, sardines, etc... Mais non !!! Des frites, des beans, du riz et des morceaux de steaks. Bien décevant. Ce n'était pas mauvais mais mettons que pour le prix en plus... Je suis curieuse je vais voir les commentaires des gens sur Trip Advisor. Attrape touristes !!!! Trop cher, etc.... Ouin bien.... Très décevant !! Mais on apprend et comme on le dit si bien: on n'est pas vraiment un touriste tant qu'on ne se fait pas arnaquer ein!!

      Ensuite, on se promène dans les rues de Viena. C'est très joli. Les gens font de belles manières à Félix qui lui à son tour, réplique avec de supers sourires comme toujours! Un Gelato en main, on revient déjà à notre camper. Les enfants sont fatigués alors ils s'endorment rapidement en reprenant la route.

      Nous arrivons à Soajo pour comptempler les Espigueiros: "un grenier typique du nord-ouest de la péninsule Ibérique (principalement Galice et Asturies en Espagne, et région Nord au Portugal), construit en bois et pierre, et élevé sur des piliers terminés par des supports plats afin d'en interdire l'accès aux rongeurs. La ventilation est assurée par des fentes dans les murs". La vue est magnifique. Nous sommes dans les montagnes, une rivière passe tout près. C'est beeaaauuuu! Nous décidons par la suite d'aller visiter une arche près de la rivière mais, mal indiqué, nous devons rebrousser chemin. Les minis nous ont faim. On décide d'aller se promener dans les rues du village de Soajo. Wow!! De toute beauté. Tout est en pierre. L'eau coule en dessous des ruelles. C'est vraiment un très beau village. On arrête manger enfin dans un excellent resto local. On opte pour la pieuvre au menu et c'est tellement bon que même Samuel en redemande 3-4 fois. Il adore !!!! Le vino verde maison est également très bon. Pour ceux qui se posent la question, et vino verde est un vin blanc mais plutôt effervescent, un peu pétillant.

      On retourne ensuite par les ruelles de pierre jusqu'au stationnement gratuit pour la nuit pour les VR aussi, espérons que c’est une pratique courante dans les villages!
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    • Dag 17

      Praia de Ancora🇵🇹

      16 september 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      So wie letztes Jahr hatten wir hier noch gemeinsam mit den Jungs einen super feinen Surf!
      Bevor wir die Jungs zum Flughafen brachten, haben wir uns noch einmal ein komplettes deluxe essen gegönnt🤤
      Jetzt gehts dann langsam weiter richtung Süden. Es wird deutlich wärmer☀️☀️
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    • Dag 9

      Doing whatever it takes

      21 september 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

      Today we got a relatively early start, leaving Fernanda’s at 8:00 after a quick breakfast of bread, cheese, and cocoa. Grabbed an apple for later and hefted our packs for the walk to Ponte de Lima.

      By 9:00 I knew I was in trouble. Yesterday’s push really took a toll on me physically and mentally. I knew that although today’s walk would be shorter in terms of distance, I also knew there was a long, steep stretch that was going to test my mettle. Turns out, my mettle is of very poor quality with low tensile strength.

      We stopped at a cafe for ice cream (yes, at 9:00 am) and i broached the idea of calling a taxi. The night before, Marcelo the whinging Canadian had confessed he sometimes took a taxi when he was too tired to walk to the next town. Betty and son Jan, our German friends, had already opted to take a bus from Fernanda’s to Ponte de Lima to avoid the big ascent.

      We finished our ice cream and walked a couple more kilometers before I decided I just couldn’t do it today. We passed by an auto body shop and I stopped to ask if they could call a taxi for us.

      Fast forward 10 minutes and we were in Ponte de Lima. Apparently the road skirts the base of the giant hill while the Camino climbs up and over. Perhaps if there had been more civil engineers making this pilgrimage a thousand years back this would not have been the case. Sadly the average ancient pilgrim was a glutton for punishment, not efficiency.

      Since we got to PdL too early to check in to our hotel, we dropped our packs off in the lobby and went shopping. I broke my phone charging cable yesterday and Ellen accidentally left her hat behind at Fernanda’s. While wandering we bumped into Betty and Jan, our new German pals. Jan knew exactly where to go for my charging cable, a fantastic shop called Ale Hop. You would think they sold beer, right? But no, just all manner of small gadgets and accessories. Betty bought herself a little pink battery operated fan she plans to carry on Camino. She’s sure to be the envy of all the other peregrinos. Ellen is still looking for a new hat.

      We stopped at a cafe for Cokes with B & J and swapped Camino stories. Jan managed to fix the broken zipper on Ellen’s waist pack - he’s a very handy guy! Betty presented us with a small Camino memento made by a friend depicting a pilgrim figure carved into wood. She is handing them out to friends she makes while walking. Very sweet.

      While I’m disappointed we didn’t get to feel smug about being “true” pilgrims, I think we already tossed that aside when we prebooked rooms in 3 star hotels every night. Tomorrow we have made arrangements to have our packs transferred to our next stop. I’m hopeful that we (meaning me) will be able to walk the required distances more easily once we’re not so encumbered. We’ll see. Now that we’ve smashed the taxi taboo who can say where this slippery slope will lead.

      Currently I am lying on fluffy white sheets, listening to the church bells toll the quarter hour while our laundry gently drips dry in the shower. Heading out to find dinner soon.

      Ciao.
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    • Dag 10

      We climbed a mountain!

      22 september 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

      Today was a day of changes. We started off from Ponte de Lima under cloudy skies which made the early hours quite pleasant. By noon the sun broke through but the temperature felt cooler than the past few days.

      This morning we left our backpacks behind at our hotel and only carried water, snacks, and necessities (Compeed). Our packs will be retrieved by TopSantiago, one of the many bag transfer services operating along most Camino routes. I was able to pick up a sleek daypack to carry my essentials but we couldn’t find another one for Ellen so she had to make do with a random assortment of smaller pouches.

      We started out following the Lima River valley along beautiful streams in the dappled shade of eucalyptus and oak trees. We passed through more vineyards and small farms and were delighted to find not one but TWO fountains for soaking our feet. Ahhhhhh.

      We stopped for a snack at a cafe next to a fish hatchery, a refreshing oasis with a nice shady patio and comfy chairs. We caught up to many of the people who had passed us earlier in the day. A pair from Wisconsin whom we’d seen at breakfast at our hotel shared that they had rescued an older man who had keeled over in front of them the day before. We compared notes -diabetic, two new knees, etc- and decided it was likely the same South African man we had met a couple days earlier. I can’t believe he kept going.

      After I’d psyched myself out yesterday and ended up calling a taxi I purposely didn’t look at elevation profile for today’s stage. Good thing. By midday, the gently rolling hills of this morning had given way to some serious incline and the cobblestones had turned to boulders. We had to stop frequently to catch our breath. No cafes in sight, we slogged on. Eventually we reached what we hoped was the summit, rested in the shade for a bit before tackling the steep descent. My dogs are barking.

      Just to be sure every single muscle got stretched beyond its full potential we added an extra couple kilometers of steep downhill going off-Camino to get to our hotel, the Quinta de Gandra. Luckily there is a pool. And our bags were there waiting for us when we arrived! Amazing. We will catch a ride into the nearby town of Rubaies for dinner. Unless we fall asleep first.

      Upadate: Had a lovely pilgrim’s meal at a restaurant catering to large groups of tourists. The place was packed! Eight of us from our hotel went. Two of our group were young men who had cycled all the way from Porto today. They had to carry their bikes and gear the last 8k up the mountain because of the boulders. They sat at a table outside and the rest of us got a table inside. Alison & Peter from Somerset, England, Claudia and her husband whose name we both forgot from Germany, and us. The place was loud but the food was terrific and we all swapped stories about the South African man. Apparently Alison saw him today and he was was striding along. Since we didn’t come upon him lying on the ground on our way we can only assume he’s still going. The Camino Grapevine is impressive. There’s also a rumor of a Rastafarian leading a donkey which I really hope to see.

      Laundry’s drying. The chickens have gone to bed. Night all.
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    • Dag 11

      Our last day in Portugal

      23 september 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

      We made it to Valença do Minho, our last stop before we cross into Spain. Our hotel, Alojamento da Vila, is inside the walled fortress of the ancient city on the banks of the Minho river which is the border between Portugal and Spain. Tomorrow we are taking a rest day of sorts, only walking across the river to the Spanish city of Tui. The best part is that Spain ‘s time zone is one hour behind Portugal so we might even arrive before we leave!

      Today’s walk was long but pleasant. Very gentle hills, many forested sections, and sufficient cafes with restrooms. Sadly, no places to soak our feet today. They say «The Camino provides » but when I was wishing for a fountain all I found was an old sock.

      Last night’s communal dinner followed by breakfast with the same group of folks made today fun. Alison & Peter, Claudia & André, and new friends Ashook & Hesha from Canada, all left the hotel together this morning. While we all walked at different paces we managed to catch up to each other at cafes. The cycling boys took off just before us on their way to Caldas de Reis which we will reach 5 days from now. We even ran into our mates Betty and Jan twice today. We walked together for a bit but the rocky path we were on was hard on Betty’s knees so they dropped back. The next time we saw them they were arriving at a cafe in the town of Castro just as we were leaving. They were going to rest a bit then catch a bus or taxi to Valença. We invited Jan to accompany us but he opted to stay with his mother. Such a good son.

      When passing through Castro we met Fatima and her dog, Lola. Fatima was born in Portugal but now lives in Canada. She and Lola are living in Castro for several months of r ‘n r, staying at her family home right on the Camino. She asked us many questions about the Camino and we had a really nice chat. Lola is an 11 month old Aussie/Labradoodle mix with a lucious red coat. Very well behaved for her age and breed.

      Our room at the Alojamento da Vila is lovely, with balconies overlooking the tiled rooftops and the narrow pedestrian lane below. Our next door neighbors are two German women we’ve exchanged «Bom Caminho!»s with several times over the last five days. We don’t know their names yet but if they hang their laundry out on the balcony, too, we’ll be sure to ask. We do know that they are heading back to Porto tomorrow and plan to finish the Tui to Santiago portion next year. This is their second Camino and they got me excited about getting to Santiago. They say it’s wonderful.

      Some of our friends were continuing on to Tui today but others were planning to stop in Valença. I imagine we’ll see some familiar faces at dinner tonight.

      As I write, I hear a donkey braying nearby. Perhaps it is the Rastafarian! I must investigate.
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    • Dag 14

      Castelo do Neiva to Anhas

      25 september 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

      After leaving the Santiago church, I was grateful for a donativo rest stop. The man supplying the goods obviously took a lot of pride in his oasis. I hadn’t had a lot to eat today, so was happy to indulge. And then to donate of course.

      He said most pilgrims just rush on by, in a hurry. I was more than happy to rest in the shad fie a bit.

      Eventually I did reach my destination, very happy to get my boots off. I went out to dinner with Coco, a pilgrim from Seattle. While there, a fellow arrived on horseback, had a cerveja, and left. Interesting.
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    • Dag 15

      Anha to Viana do Castelo

      26 september 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      The next main town was fairly large, with a castle up on the hill. Luckily I did not visit it. The Camino was not well marked in Viana, but I figured out how to see my position on a Camino map app. That helped, so did the friendly business man on his way to work.

      I stopped for coffee and to see the cathedral. Also I found the Umbrella Street ☂️. And if you were wondering, gas is even more expensive here. Keep in mind that is per litre in euros.
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    • Dag 15

      Viana do Castelo to Correcos

      26 september 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      Once I finally found my way out of Viana, the way-marking was much better. There were some hills, some cobblestone, some road, and some forest trail.

      Interesting scenery, odd street and lawn sculptures.Meer informatie

    • Dag 15

      Correcos to Vila Praia de Ancora

      26 september 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      I had lunch in Correcos, then had quite a steep climb following. What’s usually at the top of a climb? Sometimes a beautiful view, sometimes just a cross. The crosses reminded me of the iron cross on the Camino Frances, but I didn’t leave a stone.

      I was very happy to see a sign for my albergue, because I knew I was before the town. Well, the turnoff was. Then I had to climb some more to get there.

      I think it was worth it, look at the cute beds in the attic!
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    U kunt deze plaats misschien wel onder de volgende namen::

    Distrito de Viana do Castelo, Viana do Castelo

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