Camino Del Norte

September - October 2023
Walking 822km from Irun, Spain to Santiago de Compostela, Spain Read more
  • 37footprints
  • 2countries
  • 33days
  • 340photos
  • 7videos
  • 6.8kmiles
  • 2.3kmiles
  • Day 32

    Fisterra, Spain

    October 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    After a 3 hour bus ride (we took the looong way) to Finisterre, also known as Fisterra, also known as “the end of the world”, we arrived at our final destination and a perfect ending to this journey. About an hour or so before sunset pilgrims hike to the lighthouse where they sit on the rocks and watch the most beautiful sunset. My last visit here I used this time to contemplate my Camino, lessons learned, revelations made, what I wanted to change about myself, how to better serve others, what boundaries and choices are needed to foster growth personally and spiritually. All the deep reflective stuff. I’m not sure how this visit will go, I’m with a good friend this time and sometimes that means you just admire Gods art and enjoy it with a glass of wine. Sitting in deep thought, in silence, paired with drinking wine is not something I’m capable of. Neither is Holly 😂
    People come from all over the world to do the many Caminos through France, Spain, and Portugal. All paths lead to Santiago. Some pilgrims stop there and call it good. I have several times. Some walk the additional 4 or 5 days, which I have done once and bussed now 3 times. The walk here is not easy. You’d think after all the conditioning over the length of a Camino (some caminos are 5 days, some 2 weeks, some over a month) on the road it would be, but it wasn’t. I have the Compostela for Finisterre and don’t desire another one. Plus it rains a lot here. You know how I love the rain!! It’s 5:45 now, sunset is at 8:17. We will leave around 7 to make it to the ZERO KILOMETER mark!!
    Then I’m not going to walk for awhile you guys. I’m going to enjoy my home, cook wonderful meals for my husband, visit and love on my family & friends. I’m grateful for my colleagues, Kim and Jennifer, who helped me out at work and made this possible. I sooo miss the littles, Jenna, Rose, Warren and of course sweet Caden. I want to squeeze them all. I’m also really excited to get my now much firmer butt back to work!! Seriously, I love my career and my clients. So much so, I can’t imagine ever retiring. I’m truly blessed.
    When we got here today it was too early to check in so we dropped off our backpacks and explored the little seaside town. Weather was overcast, cool, and comfortable, a nice relief from the heat the last couple days. We had something to eat and went to the room to pack our smaller backpacks with essentials for this evening. The proprietress gave us two wine glasses to use and a corkscrew which was super awesome of her!! I took one look at the corkscrew and thought, where in the heck is my friend Libby? I showed it to Holly and asked her if she knew how to use it and she immediately said yes. Thank god I have friends who know how to open wine! We will go buy our supermarket wine soon. So classy, but the wine in the stores here are really good and really cheap! Our room has a little balcony and a view of the Atlantic, it’s a small room, but nice, and clean. I can’t express enough how excited I am to go home and not feel like I have to check for bed bugs every night!! I kid you not, every single night since the night in Bilbao, I check, at least twice, sometimes 3 times. Those little critters aren’t getting me again. Yes, I’m still a little traumatized from it. Yesterday, once again, I washed EVERYTHING. My packing cubes, jacket, little backpack, all the clothes I have except for what I was wearing. I’m obsessed. When I get to the airport I’ll have them wrap it on the plastic wrapping machine and leave everything in it for at least a couple months in our garage. I think those little bastards can live a long time. I don’t think I have bugs in my pack, I’ve been meticulously checking and have seen nothing, ever. But, I’d hate to be wrong! I get my clothes from my suitcase tomorrow!!! The storage facility in Santiago will deliver to the hotel in the morning. I will have all my hair and makeup stuff, different clothes, and I will transform to back Realtor Tammy from pilgrim vagabond Tammy. It’s going to feel weird. It always does. Whenever I do this and walk around Santiago I feel like a tourist and I don’t like it. In Santiago, I’m a pilgrim. But once I hit the airport, I want to look halfway decent. Even though I’ll probably favor my comfy stuff like leggings and running jacket! But, my hair will be done, I’ll have perfume, makeup applied. No one will ever know of the sweaty, dirty, no makeup face, bed head, ponytail person I have been for over a month. Sad. I sort of enjoy that part of the Camino. It takes me 15 minutes to get ready in the morning. Clothes on, teeth brushed, deodorant, ponytail and clips in, sometimes lotion when I feel like it, toe socks and Darn Tough socks on, shoes on, done. Start walking. So simple. So freeing. No one looks at me like ‘she’s really let herself go’, they actually think I’m pretty!! Isn’t that crazy? All these years of covering up my face with makeup, doing my hair, never leaving the house without doing the routine. It’s a lot. It’s too much sometimes. Americans are different this way. It’s almost expected. Here, no one cares. Really. They accept you just the same. People who have seen photos of me both ways, like the pilgrim Tammy better. Blows my mind. Think of all the money I could’ve saved! Lesson Learned, Less is more.
    Now that we are back from our 6km (total) walk to and from the the lighthouse, let me tell you about it! Last time I was there you could hardly find a place to sit. This time we had choices galore. We found what looked like the perfect picnic spot, blew up the little seat and pillow Holly brought, laid the poncho out on the ground, got the wine and wine glasses out and chocolates. It was perfect. Then we noticed a smell. We picked the septic system to sit on 😒 we almost moved but we were laughing so hard because of ALL the smells we have smelled along the Camino between cow pastures, organic farming, and smelly people, it was 100% fitting. We snapped a ton of photos of the sunset and a few of us posing at the 0 KM marker. I thought Mass, arriving in Santiago, getting our Compostela and certificate was the perfect ending, and it was, but this, this soothed the soul. We laughed about moments on the Camino, places we had been, and really laughed when we realized the bottle of wine we picked was from Bed Bug Bilbao!! I’m sure Bilbao is a great city, but I’d rather not go back hahaha!! The sun set, the wine was consumed, and our walk back down into Finisterre in the dark was amazing. The experience this evening was icing on the cake. We sat at the end of the world, watched the boats, the sun put itself to bed, and realized in this moment, it’s really over. Lord I pray you give us safe & smooth, travels home, and a memory that never forgets our many blessings here and at home. God is so good.
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  • Day 31

    Santiago de Compostela, Spain

    October 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    3:30am wake-up, 4am on the road! We wanted to make it to the noon mass and we managed to walk our last 20Km and make it into Santiago at 9, God I love this city. We of course did the obligatory photos in front of the cathedral and went to the pilgrims office to get our Compostela and Distance Certificates. We had filled out the paperwork several days ago, so we had the QR code and were able to jump through the line and within 10 minutes we had our documents in hand! In years past the line has been wrapped around outside, waiting for what seemed like hours. Getting in early made a huge difference. Their new system makes a big difference too. After we all got them (Meelike, Holly, and I) we took more photos, then off to find our accommodations for the night and then get in line for Mass.
    I’m going to jump right into the Mass experience. I’ve been a few times before here, but this time was really special. A visiting priest from Dublin was working the crowd a little, asking where people were from, he was the sweetest man. I asked him before he walked away if he’d give me a blessing and he said yes, of course. He said a prayer for me and it touched my heart tremendously. After he was done I was speechless. People were talking amongst themselves and I stood deep in thought, focusing on the altar, thanking God for this journey, helping me get here after all the crazy challenges from day one. I prayed for each and everyone of my friends and family members, blood related or not. I felt so grateful to have this blessing from the priest, I’ve never had that on a Camino except in a group pilgrim blessing in Leon on the Camino Frances. His hands were so soft, his eyes so kind, his humor, ohh so Irish! And what a Mass. While I didn’t understand the actual Mass, the feeling was there. If you’ve been to Mass, you can figure it out. It was felt. I took communion. The whole time waiting for Mass to begin, and through the whole beautiful experience, I was choking back the tears, I didn’t let myself cry, because I was happy, not sad, and more importantly I wanted to absorb every last drop of it and not let my emotions get in the way. The big Botafumerio swung, filtering incense throughout the entire cathedral. It was an overwhelming experience that no matter how many times I see it, it never gets old. Such a powerful ending to a beautiful, challenging, painful, wonderful, eye opening, pilgrimage. Every vivid dream I had, every steep climb, every muddy decent, the damn rain, the blistering sun, cold mornings, the Bilbao bed bugs, hangry moments, little annoyances, laughter to the point of crying, coincidences, little coffees, church bells, mooing cows, crowing roosters, wet shoes, naked people on beaches, tuna fish on salads, conversations in broken Spanish and English, the search for Hollys ‘coffee’-oat milk with Cola Cao, sore back, sore feet, laundry every single day, ponytails and clips, wine, so damn many French fries, sangria, packing and unpacking the same two outfits everyday,..gosh I’m going to miss this…but first, I’m missing my family and friends terribly. It’s time to fly very sooooon!!
    Tomorrow we venture to Finisterre, and do one last 3km climb to watch the sunset and share a bottle of wine at the 0 Km mark with Holly. Then, back to Santiago on the 3rd and fly out the next morning. Thanks for all your supportive comments, texts, DM’s, calls, emails, WhatsApp messages, every single one of them helped me keep going. I needed you to get me here. I appreciate you. I’ll do one last entry tomorrow, from the end of the world.
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  • Day 30

    Arzūa to O Podrouza, Spain

    September 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    This morning the 3 of us met for breakfast and excitedly started clipping the kilometers down. The weather was cool enough for a light jacket for about 15 minutes and about 15 minutes after that the long sleeve top came off. There was a huge train of people on the Camino today. The routes have joined and ohh dear it’s a bit of a jolt to the system! About 3000 people were granted a Compostela yesterday!!Many of them smelled of perfume, hair was cutely done, colorful clothing, clean shoes, WHITE SOCKS, makeup…you get the idea. The rest of us sweaty long haulers were making our way through the crowds, doing it politely as possible, saying “Buen Camino” as we passed them out of courtesy and respect. Maybe all they had time for was the last 100km (5 days). Maybe they don’t have the time or money for a month on the road, but wanted to see what it was like? Maybe they have health issues preventing them from enduring the whole thing? All sorts of reasons. But..why do they get the same Compostela as those who walk an entire route? Doesn’t matter. Everyone does their own Camino and there is no room for judging, and if one finds themselves doing that, then maybe they need to keep walking? Back to today. So so many cafe options. It seemed like every kilometer there was a cafe and another stamp opportunity. Where were all these stops the last 800km??!! I think I collected 6 stamps today. I filled up my first book yesterday and started a new one, and it just looked sad had I only got one or 2, so I got several. We arrived in this town at about 2:15 and it was so hot. 82*. Our room has air conditioning, so after a shower, bite to eat downstairs, we were back up to the room to get laundry put away, e-mail the luggage storage guy to make arrangements to get our suitcases tomorrow, and now chilling in a cool room. We are setting out at 4am in the morning to not only beat the heat (supposed to be 88* in Santiago tomorrow, typically it is raining buckets), but also to make it to the noon mass. It’s the big day. The day I have been working so hard to get to for the last month. So many challenges and discoveries physically, mentally, emotionally, and spiritually. It’s bittersweet, always is. Excited to go back to my blessed life, family and friends, but also going to miss the pure simplicity of all this…just walk, eat, sleep, repeat.Read more

  • Day 29

    Sobrado dos Monxes to Arzua, Spain

    September 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    This morning started like any other morning except I am starting to notice many more pilgrims in the mornings. We waited quite awhile to place our coffee/toast order and for it to come. We have been pretty spoiled being on the Norte route where there isn’t a ton of people unlike the Frances route. Now that we have arrived in Arzua, the Frances has now joined the Norte to head into Santiago de Compostela and we are seeing many new faces. We are also seeing people from weeks ago that we lost step with at some point, but some seem to be doing outrageous kilometers per day to wrap it up. One guy I spoke of a couple weeks ago, Dizzy Man, who we met on top of a mountain, we hadn’t seen in what seems like weeks, we ran into again. He walked 50km in one day. That’s crazy. Obviously he got over his dizzy spell!! Others are logging 40km. It’s a lot. Santiago isn’t going anywhere, we will stick to our 20Km days for the next 2 days and arrive on Sunday, October 1. We will go to the “end of the world”, Finisterre, on the 2nd, hike to the lighthouse and watch the last sunset from that beautiful spot. A perfect ending to an amazing, yet challenging journey. We aren’t there yet though. 2 days to do. Today was about 22km and after all the previous nice, cool overcast days, the sun popped out and roasted us today. I just kept thinking that is fine, way better than rain! Nothing really noteworthy on our walk today, most photos come from the special visit to the cathedral in Sobrado. We met up with Meelike for coffee this morning and walked with her all day. She had stomach issues last night at the albergue so she didn’t sleep well and by the end of the day, she was looking pretty bad. We weren’t looking all that great either, but grateful for no stomach issues. The foot did better than it has in the last 3 days. Still have pain, but not the sharp pains that stop me in my tracks. Sort of strange, I expected the pain to continue and get worse the more I kept demanding of it. It is still inflamed and swelling, but I did pretty good, and kept pace with the girls, even a little faster at times, so that gave me hope. Looking forward to the next couple days, and at last, the grand entrance into Plaza Obradoiro.Read more

  • Day 28

    Miraz to Sobrado Dos Monxes, Spain

    September 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Woke up this morning trying to see how the foot/leg felt before deciding if I taxi 10km and walk the rest. I overheard at breakfast from Jürgen (from Port Orchard, Wa!) and the proprietress that the route today was very steep and strenuous. My book said different. I checked my app and Gronze, 2 sources I use, and nothing indicated anything crazy, the only thing intimidating was that it was 16 miles. I was dying after 10 the day before. All sources also said no services along the way, so once I committed, there was no backing out. I ate, took my ibuprofen, tried to tape my foot, layered the toe socks and merino wool socks, and it felt awful and painful. Like someone kicked me in the shin down low. Frustrated, I took the wrap off, socks back on, still painful to the touch. I was about to say forget it because if I was hurting that bad and I hadn’t even started walking. How was 16 miles going to feel? Then I noticed the cuff of the toe sock was hitting right where the most pain was felt. Ok so my toe socks have been the best thing ever. No blisters at all in a month and I attribute it to those silly looking things. They are the best invention ever for hiking. But, they were aggravating it, so off they came and I put the merino alone back on. That felt 50% better. Then my meds and cream kicked in and I was like hey I think I can do this. “Momma” Holly was looking at me with skepticism and didn’t like the idea of me walking today because she knows the pain I’ve been in. She said she wasn’t going to sway me one way or the other, but I knew she would have rather seen me not suffer and take a day off. Once I got the relief I did, I decided I was going for it. Told her I may go slower and may want extra breaks. A gal we met at breakfast from the Netherlands (but originally from Estonia), named Meelike, asked if she could walk with us, we of course said yes, and the morning flew by as we learned more about her and we talked about our lives too. She was an absolute joy. She has wanted to abandon ship for awhile now. I noticed her limping a bit and asked her what her issues were..she said nothing physical, but that she has struggled to not give up. She’s not enjoying it at all. She’s done the Frances and Portuguese routes, but this one is so difficult, plus she’s traveling alone so that may be part of it too. We talked about why we were all doing the Camino, most people have a ‘reason’ and she said she lost her father last August. I told her I too lost my dad last August. She said, “Don’t tell me it was on the 13th.” I replied, “Yes, it was the 13th, the day after my birthday”. We both just starred at each other in disbelief and then hugged with watery eyes. So surreal. Crazy we met and had this connection. Conversation shifted to other things, but I felt a bond to her very quickly. I like her. She’s interesting and very funny. Pretty soon the kilometers were clicking by and like I said, we didn’t anticipate a coffee stop, but happened upon 2. The first was at an albergue and the 2nd was at a chicken farm. Very humble home with chickens everywhere. It was rather nasty, but what the heck, I’m ordering a coffee, not a chicken sandwich. We sat there and giggled at it being the most memorable coffee stop we’ve had! Then we saw Anton (South Africa) and Alan, originally South Africa but I think he lives in New Zealand now. We haven’t seen them since Bilbao (bed bug nightmare night). Didn’t think we’d see them again, they are strong and fit and thought they were surely in Santiago by now. It was great to see them and catch up, funny guys. Probably the last we see of them since Alan catches his flight home Sunday, the day we arrive in Santiago. I creamed up my leg and took more pills and got back on the road. Still feeling pretty good. Not perfect at all, but I felt alright. Then the last 5Km the pain really hit another level. If I walked a certain way it would send sharp deep pain through my leg. I can handle pain, but this made me stop in my tracks and holler a little. I told the girls I was going to take it slow, hang back, and take my time. They’d get up ahead and then wait for me to catch up. But, I made it, and I’m so glad I did it. I’m out of ibuprofen, so luckily I found a pharmacy when we got to town so I could replenish. Holly and I checked into our room, showered, and she went to laundromat. So sweet to take that chore off my plate, once again. While our clothes were doing their thing we went across the street and had dinner. At 5:30!! Didn’t have to wait until 8!! Meelike met us there and after dinner we all went to this very special monastery, met the super funny priest, who let us tour it after it had already closed. We also got one of the most special stamps I have in my book. So happy about that!! It was time to replenish our bags with a few food items for tomorrow and get back to the room. I’m laying backwards on my bed now with my feet elevated up on the wall. It helps a lot with the swelling. It’s the final countdown!! We have 3 days of walking left! Tomorrow is about 14 miles, the next 2 are about 12 miles each day. I’m going to try and do it and then give my body a good 2 days of rest before flying home to my awesome family and friends. I’m getting so excited to be finished. I think Holly wants to keep going!! As much as she adores her family, she has absolutely loved this and I wouldn’t doubt it if she ends up like me, doing multiple Caminos. The Camino has its way of doing that to people. Me, I’m going to say what I always say, it’s my last one. Ciao for now ❤️👣🙏🏻Read more

  • Day 27

    Baamonde to Miraz, Spain

    September 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Incredible morning. I absolutely love cool mornings with the sunrise greeting me for the day. It seems like an unspoken promise for a blessed day. The walk started out on the highway, but we were then taken down a dirt path, across a little creek and bridge and entered this magical forest where we were both stunned to see a very old church out in the middle of nowhere. Nothing indicating how old, but it spoke volumes to its age. My imagination ran wild thinking of days gone by where families would gather in their Sunday best, it was evident at one time it was a cherished symbol of their faith. Next to it was a broken down stone structure, which I imagined the priest or a caretaker lived, or possibly the rectory? I’m just making stuff up here, I have no idea the history, but it evoked such a spiritual feeling. We had been talking back and forth in a normal tone of voice prior to arriving, but right when we saw it, we went quiet, spoke in a whisper, and were in awe like we had just found the holy grail.
    I love beautiful surprises.
    Our mileage was short today, only 10 miles, but that was a blessing too. I don’t want to get into it again, but let’s just say the foot/leg is not better. I limped into the Albergue today, grateful I didn’t have to take another step. This morning, and at break, I used the cream, took the medicine, but it didn’t even touch the pain. I’m concerned about making it. It’s troublesome that I barely made it today with only 10 miles and tomorrow I have 16. One day at a time. I said I didn’t want to get into it, but yet here I am getting into it.
    I took a 2 hour nap after getting a bite to eat and showering. I could’ve slept all night, but, I got up and went to the cafe next door and had a cafe con leche. My body is tired and trying to put the brakes on this. I’m tuning it out for 4 more days. I’ll pay for it, I know, but I also know, only those who risk going too far are those who find out how far they are capable of going.
    Ciao ❤️🙏🏻👣
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  • Day 26

    Vilalba to Baamonde, Spain

    September 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    This morning we had our simple breakfast at our accommodation and while doing so I did a review on the place. The lady and older gentleman running it pour their hearts into the place and I gave them top notch reviews. We were finishing up when the man walked into the breakfast room with his hand on his heart, phone in the other hand showing the review that he got via email. He was so grateful and was saying gracias with such appreciation a couple times and showing his gratitude for the review. Jeez I didn’t think he’d see it so soon, but obviously these reviews are very meaningful and important to them so they check for them. Glad I took the time to do it. In planning all of these stops and accommodations I read a ton of reviews and researched for hours on end. When you need to book places for 35 +\- days, in a different location every day, it takes a lot of time and planning. Not going to miss this part of the trip!! I based my choices on the reviews (and prices too of course!), so I understand very well that reviews are important to do and are helpful, not only to travelers, but also to the owners who take great pride in their hospitality and accommodation. I don’t always take the time to do them, but will make more of an effort now after seeing the joy in his sweet face.
    We set off around 8am in the misty morning fog, cool temperatures, and from what the guide book said, “easy walking”. This stage was only 18.6Km and the book didn’t lie, it was easy walking. However, with my foot/leg pain it wasn’t as enjoyable as it could’ve been. Every bend of the foot, every step, was really painful. I can see the swelling, but it’s nothing serious, just an overuse injury that will subside once I stop walking like this. I kept the ibuprofen and Voltaren going today every 6 hours to help, but honestly it didn’t kill the pain much at all. I did however manage to pull some joy out of the trail today. The cooler temperatures are a godsend. I met a lady from Madrid, Monica, who was walking with her 3 cousins. She’s in her mid 60’s and was an airline stewardess for 44 years and said she loved it. She speaks French, Spanish, and really good English. Her foot has some pretty painful blisters, so us two gimps walked together for a bit. She was so friendly and easy to talk to, it passed the time and took my mind off my pain and made me feel grateful I wasn’t dealing with blisters. I stopped in at an open pharmacy when we got to town and went in to see if there was a bandage or sleeve I could put on my foot and to also check in with the pharmacist to make sure I was doing all I could do, and the right things. She spoke great English, which is super helpful! When I showed her the location of my pain, she knew exactly what it was and confirmed it was from overuse. She suggested ibuprofen and Voltaren gel. Perfect, that’s what I have been doing. She recommended icing it, but that’s not so easy for me to do here. She also gave me a bandage to wrap my foot/ankle area with. But, she basically said what I figured, stop walking, rest, and it’ll get better. But she knows very well most people have 4-5 days left to reach Santiago and there is no stopping yet hahaha!! Yikes, only 100Km left! A measly SIXTY TWO miles!! A month ago it seemed forever ago and now looking back, it doesn’t seem so long ago. We are going to do it in 5 days rather than 4. Tomorrow is another short day and the next one will be about 25km. The remaining days will be around 20Km. Hopefully by having 2 shorter days, the 25km won’t be too dreadful. There’s nothing to explore in this town, which is a blessing, it forces me to rest and not feel like I am missing out on anything I will regret not seeing. The albergue we are staying at is nice (thanks to the reviews, it was an easy choice!), it has a restaurant attached, big courtyard for lounging, and the owner is really great too. I have been blessed with everything I need right here. Holly, being the sweetheart she is, once again ran our laundry down the street to the laundromat and got our clothes washed and dried so I didn’t have to walk another inch today. I offered to do it this time (hard for me to accept help..), but she insisted. I love her heart.
    That’s all I have for today, I’ll try to talk about other things tomorrow and not focus on my ailments so much, I know that’s not to interesting to read about!! Hugs and Loves. ❤️🙏🏻👣
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  • Day 25

    Abadin to Vilalba, Spain

    September 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    Fantastic trail today, I kept wondering what the catch was! The map showed we had quite a climb and decent after a few kilometers but I never felt it was anything. We had a gradual uphill and downhill and then little tiny ups and downs all day but NOTHING like yesterday. It was easy forested paths, fields with cattle grazing, more corn fields (so much corn yet we are never offered it in restaurants-must all be for the cattle?), the greenest pastures you’ve ever seen, and ONE coffee stop in the entire 14 miles. That was fine, we have become accustomed to not relying on places to be open even if they guide says there are food/cafe options along the way. We usually pack a banana, nuts, chocolate, and sometimes a little bocadillo (a super plain sandwich in a baguette with a thin slice of meat and thin slide of cheese-no condiments). It’s enough. Today I had to make a real effort to not focus on my pain. I’ve done so well up to a couple days ago. My body had adapted to this daily demand I’ve put on it, and I have been feeling strong and determined. Today my shin/bend in my foot & leg was really aggravated. I took ibuprofen before I left, rubbed on some Voltaren gel and figured that’d do me for several hours. It didn’t even touch the pain. Before I left for this trip I visited my Dr and requested a prescription for antibiotics in case I got sick while here and some Vicodin. She gave me a Zpak (Zithromax) and 30 Vicodin. I’m so glad I asked for that. On our break I took one, along with ibuprofen applied the gel and made it to Vilalba in ok shape. I’d have been crying otherwise. I have quite a bit of swelling and pain. As I write this I am facing backwards on my bed with my legs stretched straight up on the wall to help bring the swelling down. 6 days left you guys. I can’t cave to this pain. It’s awful, but like I said, I’ll cut the damn thing off before I quit hahaha!! I’ve been kind to my body. I’ve been shipping my pack to my end point every day, booked all our rooms to our end point (that takes time and effort!!), kept fluids in me, rested when I need to (it’s hard to stop because getting going again is hard too), trying to eat properly (which is very difficult when you burn 1800 calories a day), so as far as I can see, I am doing all I can. It’s just hard. I have to make it at this point. I will, my pace may have to slow, but I will make it. After tomorrow there is no opportunity to skip ahead and have a rest day. You need to get 2 stamps a day from here on out to show you’ve walked the last 100km. If you don’t, no Compostela, no certificate. No fricken way have I come this far for the last month to give up now. I may be broken when I get home, but I’ll heal. I’ve received 4 Compostelas in the past so it’s not like I need another, but this Camino has been the most challenging in so many ways, length, time, pain, you name it, it has stretched me further than any other, so it’s important to me. I have come far both physically (you should see my muscles lol), emotionally, and spiritually. This one has spoke to me in ways other caminos have not. I feel blessed to have this time for myself and my mental and spiritual health. Unreal the growth I have felt. Hard to put into words. Although I try with these crazy long blogs I write with my iPhone! Please forgive my typos and grammar. I am a grammar freak so it bugs me I can’t be more ‘edited’ however, I think you get my drift as I write.
    So we arrived in Vilalba and had laundry to do. Had to go to a laundromat, so Holly took our things and went to do that (she’s come so far—she used to get lost just going around a corner 😂.) I stayed in the room and got all our bookings done and backpacks service all squared around for the next 6 days. Took a couple hours for both of us to get our chores done. Then we were both absolutely starving and it was only 6pm. Dinner here is at 8. For the first time here I got ‘hangry’. Like really. Between the pain and no food I was definitely going to chew my arm off by 7. But, had to wait. At 8:01 we walked into a restaurant and I ordered the biggest steak I could. Ate every morsel of it. Finally I felt the energy and was revived. I feel like today was all about survival mode. Hopefully tomorrow brings less pain, more enjoyment (only hiking 12 miles!!), and more rest.
    Goodnight friends and family. If you’re the praying kind, please send one up for us today. We need all the support we can get for the next 6 days! ❤️
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  • Day 24

    Lourenzã to Abadin, Spain

    September 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    This morning we started out around 8am, waiting for the sun to light the way and hiked about 5 miles before the route split at Mondonedo. I have been seeing signs about the cathedral there for the last couple days so I imagined it was a nice one. It WAS. From the outside it was massive, even dizzying as you approached and looked up at it. The door was open so we went in for a stamp. Another cathedral stamp! You had to pay to tour it and I definitely would have, but we had a long way to go and didn’t have the time. At Mondoneda we had 2 choices. We could go 3.5 miles more, pass through villages (cafe/coffee stops), not climb too much, but would be walking on more pavement…OR..we could hike steeply uphill for almost 4 miles, downhill another 4 miles, and still have about 5 miles to our destination, no cafe stops, huge views, and hike on dirt paths, total climbing in that 4 miles was a 2231 feet. Very challenging, but we both agreed to the mountain route. As we were about 1/4 way up (maybe not even that far) this lady caught up to us and asked Holly if she considered this difficult. Holly was huffing and puffing and quickly answered yes, that it was very steep and very difficult. The lady replied that she thought it was EASY. I thought to myself, what a mean thing to say. Who says that to someone who is obviously breathing heavily and appears to find it difficult? She passed by Holly and my competitive nature kicked in. She passed me, and as she did, stepped right in front of me. No you don’t. There were 2 sides to the path. She had passed me thinking she could overtake me easily and then dilly dally with her hat. I stepped to the right to pass her, which I shouldn’t have to do, stay right, Pokey. I didn’t say a word to her (probably a good thing) as my legs kicked in and left her in the dust. In doing so though, I left Holly behind too until I reached the top and waited for her. We all have our strengths and weaknesses, uphills are my strength. Before long I couldn’t even hear Pokey’s feet behind me. Usually in passing someone we say ‘Buen Camino’, I’ll admit, I didn’t say it, I was afraid something else would come out of my mouth. Holly, being as sweet as she is, didn’t even realize she was being condescending with her comment. I, on the other hand knew exactly what she was doing and in Hollys defense, grew wings and flew by her, it felt like I was like flipping her the bird, but better. Yes, it felt real good! Holly has been absolutely killing it every day, out hiking people half her age, staying positive, nice, and supportive, despite being completely exhausted at the end of the day. That’s classy. That’s strength. That’s my friend. I’m so fricking proud of her. It’s her first Camino and she picked the hardest one to do. It took me 10 years of doing different Caminos to have the courage to hike this route. I was told you need to be super fit to make it and not to attempt it without months of training. I work, so having time to hike more than 5 miles a day is not possible for me. Before we left for this trip we would meet at 6:30am with a couple other amazing ladies (miss you Phoebe and Whitney!!) about 4-5 times a week and hike 5 miles with our packs. 3 months of training is all we had under our belt when we embarked on this. We are doing it and we are going to walk across that finish line in 7 days, God willing.
    Holly and I stopped for a lunch break with the stuff we bought from the store yesterday. It was really nice and much needed. The bend in my foot/leg was really bothering me again. I took my shoes off, put more Voltaren gel on it, and took more Ibuprofen. The gel didn’t even make it feel better at this point. It was too far gone. I drank down an Aquarius (electrolyte drink) and tried to get more water in me. It was painful to the touch. We took about a half hour break, looked at our guide books, and thought we had another 4-5 miles. Much to our surprise after about a half hour we could see the village we were to be stopping at. I pulled out my phone, looked at the app, and realized we had made it. I love it when I overestimate and all of a sudden it’s done for the day. We arrived at the albergue and were greeted by the nicest proprietor. I’ve got to say, it just makes you smile when you are greeted with kindness, and find the place clean, and beautiful. He told us about the 2 restaurants in town and opening hours, that we could bag up our laundry when we were done with our showers and he’d wash/dry it. He showed us the very nice shared kitchen we could use and that he’d have breakfast set out in the morning and it was included in the price ($29 each for this room!). The room is modern, clean, and this place has everything we could ever want and more. What a blessing. I couldn’t stop smiling and thinking how grateful I was to have this waiting for me at the end of this painful and challenging day. It was my turn for the shower first and I told Holly to go first. THATS how happy I was hahaha! The shower is the ticket to feeling human again after a long day. I was feeling much better the second I walked through this door! We are going to check out the small village now and find something to eat in a couple hours. Ultreia! ❤️👣🙏🏻
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  • Day 23

    Ribadeo to Lourenzā, Spain

    September 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    This morning started out cold!! I had a lightweight tshirt, lightweight long sleeve, and lightweight jacket on..it’s all about the layering, and of course choosing lightweight technical clothing. Oddly enough, as much as I get hot quickly, always have, I kept both sleeves on longer than I have yet on any Camino. The weather is changing for sure, however heating up to mid 70’s by afternoon, which can be very hot in direct sun. I am loving the change. We had a good climb about 12k into our walk that went up to about 400 meters. Didn’t pass through a town with a cafe that was open until 20k in. We anticipated this and packed food with us. Partway up the mountain we came across a couple benches with great views, sat on our ponchos (grass was wet, benches were tiny) and had a nice break and some food to give us the energy to get us through the last half. It was a peaceful walk today, not a lot of people on the trail, we probably came across 15-20. We hiked almost 18 miles. The views were incredible, as usual, but we didn’t have the dirt paths much today except for about 30% of the hike. We passed through hundreds of acres of corn crops and farmland with cows and horses. I love this scenery, everything is still so green and fresh. We said goodbye to the coast today and are working our way inland. The forests are always nice, offering shade and opportunities to take a break. Holly and I made a deal that we would stop every few hours to be nice to our feet and bodies. We have done days where we kept grinding, didn’t drink enough water, didn’t take enough breaks, and paid for it. My leg/shin pain did pretty good. I dosed up on ibuprofen this morning and on a break. I also bought some Voltaren gel yesterday, only €10. Voltaren gel is the bomb. I recall my first trip here in 2013 it was available only by prescription in the States and here I could walk into any pharmacy and buy it over the counter, a big tube, for €15. It was sold by prescription only at that time for about $100+ back home. So, it was nice to be in a foreign country and the get medicine I needed at an affordable price and not need to pay for a Dr visit. Yesterday we were talking to a retired dual citizen (Poland/USA), and his US Medicare is more valuable and cheaper for him in Spain than in the US. How in the heck is that? Why? Don’t want socialized medicine, but I think we can do better than we are doing for our retirees and elderly. A lot better. Ok I’ll get off my soapbox. Just find it interesting when we are usually the country doing the R&D and yet we pay 10 times more. 🤷🏻‍♀️
    Our laundry just finished in the wash but the dryer doesn’t work at the albergue so we have it hung on the line drying. We are staying in an albergue tonight, but have a private room, actually a little apartment with a kitchenette, living room, private bathroom, and our own patio area, it’s pretty cool. It’s $32 each!! $25 for a bunk bed and shared bathroom…again, so much cheaper traveling with someone else who can split the price of a private room. Plus, when you’re on the road as long as we are, sharing living space with strangers and getting limited sleep is wearing on an already exhausted body. I think this rest and privacy is really helping us keep going.
    Cute town we are in, but the main attraction is an incredible church. It doesn’t fit in this town though. I’ve noticed some of the most beautiful churches in the most run down villages, it’s really a surprise and so amazing to me. When we visited, it was open! And they had a stamp! Only the 2nd church on this Camino that I have found open WITH a stamp. We collect stamps every day showing where we have stayed or visited and at the end we show it to the pilgrims office and are issued a Compostela certificate and a distance certificate.
    We found a grocery store, stocked up on what we are having for lunch tomorrow (not taking the chance that something will be open), and found a bar for dinner. I had a great burger, which is always, for some reason, hard for me to find in Spain. I even got some Padron peppers. It is said that only like 1 in 100 are supposed to be hot..my plate of 12 had 2 hot ones before I decided to not eat the seeds! I don’t think they were true Padron peppers, Padron peppers come from Padron, they are protective of their seeds, and I’ve never had but one hot one out of at least 100 I’ve eaten!
    Tomorrow is another big day, time to slather the Voltaren cream and hit the hay! Buenas noches amigos y familiares. Te amo.
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