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Singapore & Sri Lanka

September - October 2023
Tracing Duran Duran’s Video Sites + My 13th Layover in Tokyo Read more
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  • TravelerSingapore & Sri Lanka
    Day 9

    Singapore to Colombo

    September 30, 2023 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Sri Lankan Airlines UL 303 | SIN/CMB
    Economy Class
    Airbus A330-200 | 4R-ALS
    ATD/1722 | ATA/1842
    Lounge: Marhaba Lounge T3

    Around mid-morning, Jeff and I bade farewell to my mother and we met my classmates for a vegetarian dim sum brunch. After eating, we piled into my classmate Azima's car and she gave us a ride to the airport.

    This was our first time flying Sri Lankan Airlines. The predeparture experience wasn't the best. Per their website, OneWorld Emerald members have access to complimentary seat selection, but their website wouldn't allow us to select an exit seat without paying. I emailed the customer service line only to receive a reply in broken English from an agent who clearly didn't understand my question. While in Singapore, I called the local office and the agent there said she did not understand me and she hung up on me. In the end, we purchased an exit seat for Jeff.

    At the airport check in, I managed to secure the exit seat next to the seat Jeff paid for. But, they did not inform us at check in that the flight was delayed, nor did they issue a lounge invitation. When we got to the lounge, the attendant had to call to get authorization to let us in. It was only when we looked at the monitors in the lounge that we got our first indication that our flight would depart over two hours late.

    The flight itself was pleasant, and it passed quickly. We arrived into a slightly chaotic and rainy Bandaranaike Airport. After getting through immigration and customs, we went to the Sri Lankan Airlines customer service desk to try and secure an exit seat for Jeff. Alas, they could not help us as the seats were either blocked or taken; we couldn’t tell which situation it was because the agent provided conflicting information.

    Our stress level ratcheted up a notch when we tried to use the ATM… all three of our cards were rejected! We had to rustle up whatever cash we had and go to the money changer. For the rest of our time in Sri Lanka, we charged whatever we could our credit cards, and we managed to get by without running out of cash. On our return home, we learned that my card had been blocked because of a fraudulent charge. The card issuer could not contact me because my regular phone number wasn’t in use while I was overseas. As for Jeff, well, it turned out that both of his cards had expired and we didn't have the new cards in his wallet.

    After trying to take care of business, we took an Uber to our hotel in the Fort area. The Uber fare was significantly cheaper than the taxi fares quoted in the arrivals hall. The rain soaked drive into Colombo took about 30 minutes. We were both tired by the time we got to the hotel, and we went to sleep soon after checking in.    Read more

  • TravelerSingapore & Sri Lanka
    Day 10

    Hungry Like The Wolf

    October 1, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    We had a good sleep at the C1 Colombo Fort Hotel. It rained most of the night. We woke up early as Singapore is 2.5 hours ahead of Sri Lanka. After freshening up, we walked over to the nearby Dutch Hospital area and found a breakfast buffet for about $7. I would normally avoid a breakfast buffet, but it made sense for us to eat a large breakfast as we were expecting to not eat lunch. In any case, the buffet food was good. I had my first taste of Sri Lankan food and I was hooked! I especially enjoyed the potato curry, which I sopped up with both roti and poori.

    The main reason why I chose to stay at C1 Colombo Fort Hotel was because it is a stones throw from the Pagoda Tea Room on Chatham Street where Duran Duran filmed the opening scene of Hungry Like the Wolf. In that scene, Simon Le Bon is seated at a table when a street vendor with a monkey annoys him. He tells the vendor to go away, then he takes off his sunglasses, and then he has a random temper tantrum in which he overturns the table.

    Our internet research yielded conflicting information about which unit in Chatham Street the Pagoda Tea House was located. Online evidence suggested it was the Green Cabin, but the empty ground floor unit at the De Mel Building across the street seemed to be the more likely location because the columns resembled the scene in the video. We settled on this as the venue, and Jeff proceeded with his reenactment of the opening scene at the storefront.

    After our reenactment, we wandered around the Fort area for a bit before returning to the hotel to get ready for our journey to Galle. The Fort area had an interesting mix of restored and decaying colonial buildings. Some of the colonial buildings were abandoned and had trees growing out of them. The roads weren't in great condition and we had to dodge rainwater filled potholes.

    I had initially planned to visit a couple of sights in the Pettah area nearby, but I changed my mind due to the rain and our impending 10.30am train departure.    Read more

  • TravelerSingapore & Sri Lanka
    Day 10

    Misadventures on the Train Tracks

    October 1, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Our plan for the day was to take the train from Colombo Fort Station to Galle.

    I had initially intended to walk to the train station which was less than 1km away from our hotel, but I changed my mind due to the rain, and so we ended booking an Uber for under $1. Our journey started to go awry right from the start when our somewhat manic Uber driver got lost navigating the very short journey from our hotel to Colombo Fort Station. We ended up going in circles before we got to the train station. He also tried to converse with us but we couldn't figure out half of what he was trying to say to us.

    We arrived at the railway station around 40 minutes before our train's scheduled 10.30am departure time. After buying our second class tickets with unreserved seats, we made our way to Platform 5 and waited... and waited, and waited. Our train finally arrived about 30 minutes late. The carriages were already full when it arrived, and there was a mad rush with lots of people getting on and off. We couldn't identify whether we were in a second or third class cabin, and our subsequent internet search revealed conflicting information. The cabin was packed to the gills, with barely enough standing room even.

    The train was only supposed to stop for 5 minutes, but there was no movement for over 30 minutes. The cabin was sweltering, and I was sweating buckets. I started to wonder if I wanted to stand for 2-3 hours in these conditions. Finally, after 35 minutes of waiting, we made a decision to exit the train. We walked the length of the train thinking that there may be a second class compartment that was less crowded, but it seemed as if every cabin was packed.

    Looking at our Uber app, we found that it cost about $47 to hire an Uber to Galle. We secured a ride within a minute, and we were happily on our way before the train pulled out of the station.

    Our Uber ride was very comfortable and far more civilized than the train. It took us quite a while to get through the congested city streets to the expressway. Along the way, we drove past Galle Face which appeared to be full of life with street vendors and crowds enjoying the weekend. I made a mental note to spend more time in Colombo if I return so that I can get a sense of what makes this city buzz.

    Once we hit the southern expressway, it was smooth sailing. The expressway looked as if it had recently opened. There was intermittent rain along the way.

    Halfway to Galle, we readily agreed when our driver suggested we take a 15 minute break at a service station just off the expressway. At the service station, we tucked into a delicious egg roti and some corn, and we had our first taste of local ice cream.

    I had the best of intentions to experience train transport in Sri Lanka, but alas, this was not meant to be. We later found out that it was a long public holiday weekend, which explains the crowds. In hindsight, I should have gone for the afternoon train with a first class compartment and reserved seats. I also have to keep reminding myself that I’m no longer a young, hardy, budget conscious backpacker; as with everyone else, age has exacted its toll on me.    Read more

  • TravelerSingapore & Sri Lanka
    2
    Day 10

    Galle

    October 1, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We arrived in Galle in the early afternoon. After checking in to the Seagreen Guesthouse, we spent a pleasant afternoon exploring Galle.

    There is one Duran Duran film site in Galle, and that is the Amangalla Hotel. Scenes filmed at this hotel appear in all three of their Sri Lanka-based videos. Unfortunately, the Amangalla is a high end hotel with security at the front. We didn't feel comfortable going in, so we just took photos of the exterior. I doubt we would have been able to recreate any scenes there anyway, as we would have needed a four post bed with mosquito nets!

    This entry features scenes from within the fort. Overall, the vibe was friendly, artsy (but not overly so) and not overly touristy. It was nice to be in a walled city that the locals also enjoyed; the overall atmosphere reminded us of the Getsemani area in Cartagena.

    We enjoyed exploring the streets which were lined with churches and temples. As for meals, we were instantly drawn to the Hula Hula Cafe which had a mural of a dancer with a hula hoop. We ate dinner there on our first evening, and we enjoyed our first kottu of this trip at their rooftop dining area. I was surprised to find that Jeff really liked kottu.

    We liked our accommodation at the Seagreen Guesthouse. Our $23/night room opened out into a verandah, which in turn had a view of the eastern fort walls. I enjoyed sitting there watching the people walking past. We opted to eat breakfast at the guesthouse, and it was served to us on the verandah. Sadly, we were the only guests during our two nights there.

    The guesthouse dog, who was named Pilot, took a real shine to us and he hung out outside our door waiting for us to come out and interact with him. Pilot did have a bad habit of chasing cars, though. Apparently, he mostly chases white cars.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/galle-fort    Read more

  • TravelerSingapore & Sri Lanka
    Day 10

    Galle Fort Walls

    October 1, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    In addition to exploring the streets within Galle, we circumnavigated the fort walls. Here are scenes from around the walls. As it was a Sunday, there were many local families hanging out around the city walls enjoying the cooling breeze.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/galle-fort    Read more

  • TravelerSingapore & Sri Lanka
    Day 11

    Raju Herbal & Spice Garden

    October 2, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We hired a tuk tuk from our guesthouse to take us sightseeing for 10,000 rupees. This was our first experience with a tuk tuk in Sri Lanka and we had quite a few white knuckle moments because of the crazy driving style.

    At the recommendation of our driver Ganatha, we made our first stop was Raju Herbal and Spice Garden, which our driver Ganatha recommended. Here, we were taken on a walking tour of the spice garden where our guide showed us the various plants and their medicinal uses. As soon as the tour started, I groaned inwardly it was clear that this excursion would end at a gift shop. After the garden tour, we were led to a pavilion where we were given a short oil massage for tips only. We didn't expect this but we went along with the flow. The massage was so-so, and I was slightly annoyed that they used oil as I sweat a fair bit, and oil mixed with sweat on my skin can get nasty. Thankfully, I didn't sweat much that day.

    After the massage, we were led to the inevitable gift shop. There wasn't much pressure to buy, but I ended up purchasing a weight loss formula made of pineapple; up to 4kg of weight loss was guaranteed, apparently. I figured I had nothing to lose (except a few pounds) at this stage. Jeff bought a tonic to reduce snoring.

    The old backpacker in me normally wouldn't entertain going to a place like this where I knew I would be asked to part with my money. Hopefully something good will come out of our purchases, whether it be weight loss for me or better sleep for both of us.    Read more

  • TravelerSingapore & Sri Lanka
    Day 11

    Turtle Hatchery

    October 2, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Our second stop on our tuk tuk tour was a sea turtle hatchery and rescue center. Here, we viewed various injured turtles undergoing rehabilitation in tanks. We saw green turtles, hawksbill turtles, loggerhead turtles, and olive ridley turtles. A number of them had missing limbs, and others were undergoing rehabilitation for cracked shells caused by collisions with boats. One of them could not dive because it been bloated by swallowing plastic, which they mistake for jellyfish, their favorite food source.

    Also on the premises were three batches of turtle eggs, numbering over 300 in total, incubating in a protected area. When they hatch, the staff will bring them to the ocean. I was already aware of this grim statistic, but I was reminded that only 1 in 1,000 hatchlings will survive to adulthood. It was sobering to fathom that there is a possibility that none of the incubating baby turtles in the hatchery would make it.

    Overall, this was an enlightening visit and I was happy to pay the 1,500 rupee entrance fee to support this cause. The only thing I disliked was that the staff there allowed visitors to touch some of the turtles. In Hawaii, we are conditioned to keep our distance from wildlife as it is illegal to touch or harass wild fauna.    Read more

  • TravelerSingapore & Sri Lanka
    Day 11

    Koggala Lake

    October 2, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Our next stop was Koggala Lake. At this stop, tourists typically go on a boat safari. We declined to go on the boat safari, which turned out to be a wise decision because the skies opened up not long after we departed. Instead, we went on a short walk on a bridge across part of the lake.Read more

  • TravelerSingapore & Sri Lanka
    1
    Day 11

    Handunugoda White Tea Plantation

    October 2, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    The Lonely Planet has high praise for the Handunugoda Tea Plantation, and so I was happy to make the detour uphill. I was a little skeptical about how good a tea plantation could be at low altitude this close to a coastline, but I was pleasantly surprised to see that they produced award winning tea. Arriving at the plantation, we joined a multigenerational Japanese family for a walking tour of the grounds.

    The plantation's main claim to fame is their production of white tea based on an ancient Chinese technique. In the past, this tea was reserved for emperors only. The leaves had to be harvested by virgins using gold scissors and gold collection bowls. The leaves must not touch human hands at all while being processed. The Handunugoda Tea Plantation utilized this same collection process for white tea, sans virgins. Apparently, they collect only around 25 grams a day because they painstakingly identify only the best leaves. Apart from white tea, the plantation also produces 40 different varieties of tea. They also grow coffee, cinnamon, rubber, and pepper.

    After our introduction to the tea plants, we went to the front porch of the plantation founder's home where we were served oolong tea and chocolate cake. Along the way, we encountered a troop of monkeys. At the house, we were serenaded by a peacock perched in a nearby tree.

    After the tea and cake, we were shown the processing facility, which includes some equipment that was more than a century old. Our final stop was the gift shop where we could taste the 40 varieties of tea produced in the plantation. The white virgin tea was among the best I tried. Jeff tried all 40 teas; I tried about a third of them. There was subtle pressure to purchase tea, but it wasn't bad overall.

    This was a very pleasant and educational experience. The tour used to be free, but they now charge $2 to cover their rising costs.    Read more

  • TravelerSingapore & Sri Lanka
    Day 11

    Lonely In Your Nightmare

    October 2, 2023 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Duran Duran’s Lonely in Your Nightmare featured scenes from Trapobane Island in Weligama. We went there to recreate the scene from the video in which Simon Le Bon sings “I see the delta traces living lonely out on the limb”. Unfortunately, the sea was too rough for us to recreate other parts of the scene where he walks on the sand to the island. Per the Lonely Planet, Trapobane Island is an ultra high end resort charging in excess of $1,000 per night. I doubt I’ll be staying there anytime.Read more

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