Singapore & Sri Lanka

September - October 2023
Tracing Duran Duran’s Video Sites + My 13th Layover in Tokyo Read more
  • 38footprints
  • 4countries
  • 18days
  • 506photos
  • 42videos
  • 28.4kkilometers
  • 28.4kkilometers
  • Day 1

    Honolulu to Tokyo Haneda

    September 22, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Japan Airlines JL71 | HNL/HND
    Premium Economy Class
    Boeing 787-9 | JA874J
    ATD/1625 | ATA/1925+1
    Lounge: Sakura Lounge

    This was my third time on JL71 in six months; I'd traveled to Singapore in April and May for family reasons, so there was lots of deva ju. Thankfully, the menu changed since my last flight.Read more

  • Day 3

    Tokyo Haneda to Singapore

    September 24, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Japan Airlines JL35 | HND/SIN
    Economy Class
    Boeing 767-300ER | JA607J
    ATD/0010 | ATA/0610
    Lounge: Sakura First Class Lounge

    I spent my 4.5 hour layover at the Sakura First Class Lounge. Prior to this flight, I read online that the JAL Salon on the upper level of the lounge had a limited time special featuring sushi caviar. I was lucky to travel to Tokyo before the promotion ended on September 30th. At the bar upstairs, I asked for the caviar special, and I got a small tin of caviar, smoked salmon, chopped onions, cream cheese, and three blinis. I'm not exactly sure what "sushi caviar" is but it was a treat nonetheless.

    After consuming this special treat, I spent the remainder of my transit downstairs at the JAL Table section of the lounge. There, I had my usual sushi and noodles.

    The flight to SIN was pleasant. I had an exit row seat with plenty of legroom, and an empty seat next to me to boot! A rather bizarre breakfast of curry without rice was served two hours before arrival.
    Read more

  • Day 5

    Hello, Great Grandma

    September 26, 2023 in Singapore ⋅ 🌩️ 32 °C

    Back in May after my father's funeral, I set out one humid morning armed with a map provided by my cousin Hercules to find my great grandmother's grave in the historic Bukit Brown cemetery. Unfortunately, x didn't mark the spot, and after a lot of traipsing around overgrown graves, I gave up. More info here: https://findpenguins.com/69wt4noajyp9d/footprin…

    Soon after that failed quest, I joined a Facebook group for Bukit Brown and I put up a post asking for help locating the grave. The amateur historians on that site immediately found it. My cousin was also on that Facebook group, and he volunteered to take me to the grave. Then, someone else from the group named Grace piped in and said that Chia Swee Peck Neo was her great great grandmother. After some investigating, we established that Grace is my mother's father's brother's son's son's daughter (I’ll just refer to her as my distant niece; it’ll take too much brain damage to try and qualify our exact relationship!). She had visited the grave more recently than my cousin and she volunteered to join us.

    On the afternoon of September 26th, Hercules, Grace, and I met at Tan Kah Kee MRT Station and made our way via Grab to Bukit Brown. Because of construction in the area, the online map was rather confusing and the poor Grab driver had to make a big circuit before depositing us at the cemetery entrance. From there, it was a 15 minute walk to the iconic landmark grave with the statues of Sikh guards. Back in May, I spent quite a bit of time looking in the area uphill from that grave as Hercules had marked that area as the location of our great grandmother's grave.

    Once we hit the grave with the Sikh guard statues, Grace was able to quickly locate the grave, which turned out to be a little bit further west from the spot Hercules had marked for me. When we found it, it was illuminated by a sunbeam; it was as if my great grandmother was telling us she was happy we came to visit. We paid our respects by bowing to her three times per Chinese tradition, and then we examined the various features of the grave. I specifically looked for my mother's name on the right arm of the tomb. My mother was an infant when her grandmother died, and she and my late Aunty Nancy are listed as descendants on the tomb. When it was time to depart, we again bowed to our ancestor three times before leaving.

    While we were at Bukit Brown, we also looked at some signboards explaining the symbols on these graves, as well as a bit of the history of the cemetery, which has its roots in colonial times. I learned a lot from the signboards.

    This was a great day out and I cannot thank my cousin and niece enough for taking the time to help me get a little closer to my roots.

    A few words about my great grandmother:
    - Her name was Mrs Lim Koh Seng nee Madam Chia Swee Peck Neo.
    - She married into the Lim family, which we suspect were a well-to-do Peranakan family.
    - She passed away on August 22, 1935.
    - Her obituary in the Straits Times said she was 79 years old when she died, but her burial record said she was 76. Her age on her tombstone is a little eroded, but it looks like it says 76. Either way, it must have been rare to live to that age at that time.
    - She had six sons and two daughters listed on her tombstone, but her obituary listed seven daughters-in-law and three sons-in-law. I later learned that one daughter predeceased her, and that one son had two wives.
    - Her tombstone says she had 13 grandsons and 19 granddaughters, but her obituary said she had 44 grandchildren. I can’t account for the discrepancy. I shudder to think that she may have buried as many as 12 grandchildren in addition to the daughter she outlived. That must have been heartbreaking. There is also a pomegranate adornment on her grave which symbolizes having had many descendants.
    - The Chinese characters at the top of her headstone indicate that her ancestral village is in Haicheng County in Fujian.
    - Her tomb adornments include what I think are inkwells or maybe scrolls, which in turn suggest that she was educated. That must have been unusual for women of that era.
    - I'm not aware of what religion she followed, if any. I later learned that her daughter's tomb features a prominent cross.
    - Other tomb adornments included two tomb guardians (one male and one female), and a small shrine on the side to an earth deity.
    - The markings on the tomb were in both English and Chinese. I'm not sure if she spoke English, but her offspring most certainly did.

    Post-Publication Note (December 2023): My cousin and niece uncovered more distant relatives and they provided us with what is believed to be a photo of my great grandmother's funeral in 1935, as well as a photo of her. I've added them to this entry. One of the Bukit Brown enthusiasts also published a blog on her: https://mymindisrojak.blogspot.com/2023/06/mrs-…
    Read more

  • Day 6

    CapitaSpring Rooftop Garden

    September 27, 2023 in Singapore ⋅ 🌩️ 31 °C

    CapitaSpring is a rooftop garden located on the 51st floor of a building in the financial district. There are also sky gardens on the 17th, 18th, and 19th floors. I had a pleasant few hours exploring the grounds with my mother, sister, and brother-in-law. I also took Jeff here to enjoy the city views when he arrived in Singapore a few days later. Access is free.Read more

  • Day 7

    National Orchid Garden

    September 28, 2023 in Singapore ⋅ 🌩️ 31 °C

    I drove out to Changi Airport early in the morning to collect Jeff, after which I brought him to my mother's condo to meet her for the first time. After that, we trooped out to the National Orchid Garden at the Singapore Botanical Gardens, where Jeff met my sister, my brother-in-law, and my niece for the first time. It was a sweltering hot day, and I was very relieved to get into the air conditioned greenhouse.

    After the visit to the Botanic Gardens, we drove to Ghim Moh Hawker Center where Jeff had his first taste of Singapore street food in the midst of a housing estate.
    Read more

  • Day 7

    Bukit Timah Nature Reserve

    September 28, 2023 in Singapore ⋅ 🌩️ 33 °C

    Our goal on Jeff's first day was to keep him awake all day so he could have an easier adjustment to the time zone. After eating lunch, we deposited my mother at her condo for her afternoon nap, and we set off on the hike to the Bukit Timah Nature Reserve. We first walked to the granite quarry, then we hiked up the trail from Dairy Farm, hit the summit, and walked down the road before taking the park connector back to Rail Mall. After the hike, we cooled down in the condo pool before enjoying a home cooked dinner.Read more

  • Day 8

    Hay Dairies

    September 29, 2023 in Singapore ⋅ 🌩️ 29 °C

    After breakfast, I drove Jeff and my mother up to the northern end of Singapore, where we met my sister, brother-in-law, and niece at the Hay Dairies, Singapore's only goat milk dairy.

    We had an enjoyable time feeding the goats and watching them getting milked. It was very interesting to see how the lactating goats were milked mechanically. Poor Dora was a little frightened by the goats. Jeff and I were also saddened to observe that these goats were probably kept in their pens all the time. We have a small herd of goats up the street where we live, and we wished the goats in the dairy could have as good a life as our neighborhood goats have.Read more

  • Day 8

    Bollywood Farm

    September 29, 2023 in Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    After the goat farm, we bade goodbye to my sister and her family, and I drove my mother and Jeff to the nearby Bollywood Farms. Tina, the PR lead there, took us for a short walk around the grounds, and then we had lunch at the Poison Ivy Cafe. The cafe was an interesting space with "crunchy" messages painted onto the walls. I had a nasi lemak, Jeff had a vegetable bowl, and my mother had a mee soto. Most of the ingredients used for our meals came from the farm itself. The highlight of the meal were some leaves fried in tempura batter. It was a good meal but slightly overpriced by Singapore standards.

    I later learned from a friend that the real star of the farm is Ivy the owner. Apparently, she is in her 70s, buxom, bubbly, and almost always braless. While I would have loved to meet her, I'm relieved she wasn't there as my mother reacts negatively to braless women; in the 1970s, I remember her recoiling at the sight of Farah Fawcett on Charlie's Angels.
    Read more

  • Day 8

    Gardens By The Bay

    September 29, 2023 in Singapore ⋅ 🌩️ 31 °C

    In the afternoon, Jeff and I hopped onto the MRT and headed out to Gardens by the Bay. To be honest, I’m not terribly interested in this attraction because the green space is curated and not very natural. But, it is pretty much a must see for any first time visitor to Singapore. Because of rain, we could not go up the supertrees. The main highlight was Love the Last, a long sculpture featuring endangered animals. Each animal had its own backstory which could be viewed by scanning a QR code.

    After Gardens By The Bay, I took Jeff to the CapitaSpring rooftop garden - which I had visited a few days earlier - for free panoramic views of Singapore's CBD.
    Read more

  • Day 9

    Sri Lanka - Prologue

    September 30, 2023 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    When we were looking at places to travel to from Singapore, I suggested going to Sri Lanka to seek out the sites where Duran Duran filmed their videos in the 1980s. We both jumped at the idea because we thought it might be a fun way to explore a new country. We researched where Duran Duran filmed the three videos - Hungry Like the Wolf, Save a Prayer, and Lonely in Your Nightmare - and planned out an itinerary to hit the major film sites.

    In true Jeff fashion, however, he decided to take this one step further by reenacting some of the scenes. This added another dimension of fun to our explorations. There are six reenactment videos among the footprints 👣 😂.

    For reference, here are URLs for the videos:

    Hungry Like the Wolf: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJL-lCzEXgI
    Our two reenactments are at 0:26 to 0:42, and 2:16 to 2:19.

    Save a Prayer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Uxc9eFcZyM
    We did three reenactments to this video. They are at: 2:25 to 2:45, 4:03 to 4:17, and 4:40 to 5:56.

    Lonely in Your Nightmare: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGdLNbIc2ZA
    Our one reenactment is at 1:25 to 1:33.
    Read more