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  • TravelerIndia Feb/March 2023
    Day 17

    National Museum and meeting our new gro

    March 10, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We woke and wandered down for breakfast which was amazing, fresh fruit, curd, bircher muesli which was yummy. Lots of cakes, croissants again very nice, curry and omelette, pancakes, made to order. Despite my head telling me no, my mouth said yes and I tried several small pieces of different cakes. The banana cake was best.

    Then we had decided to walk to the National Museum of Delhi, about a km along the road. Having been in India for over two weeks, and Delhi for  a few days previously we felt confident. 

    I have to say that we have never felt uncomfortable or threatened in any way since arriving. On our first day we walked to meet our guide through extremely busy streets, we were aware that we stood out, not many tourists there and James in his hat of course. 

    The walk was interesting as it is past the area where the dignitaries live and there was a high police presence.  A tuktuk driver tried to persuade us that the road was closed and it would be better to go by tuktuk, when he asked us how long we had been in India and we said over two weeks he backed off, realising that we knew the ropes just a little bit.

    The museum was interesting, we had read that it was a series of separate exhibitions and that it didn't tell a story so were prepared. There are 3 floors of a very boring building from the outside, but inside the centre is circular around a courtyard with windows all around.

    We were surprised how old some of the exhibits were, and how intricate. There were a lot of stone statues and statuettes, wal, panels and suchlike. I was taken by a very primitive tiny figure of someone in a yoga pose, there were several of these. I also loved the silk paintings, many miniature ones like we had sent in Udaipur. They were vibrant and many showed scenes of weddings and battles, as well as more daily life and pictures of the many Hindu Gods.

    The room full of musical instruments was fascinating, no idea how to play most of them. 

    We wandered over to the area near the Parliament buildings built by the British eleven years before independence. There are two very attaractive large identical buildings opposite each other at the head of a canal with fountains and gardens. Again the area was heavily guarded by people in uniforms with guns. It is strange how we have got used to seeing this all over the place. 

    We decided to go back by Tuktuk, the fare war 100 rupees £1.00 James offered the driver a tip and he declined very politely.

    At five o'clock we were meeting our new family for the next ten days. It turns out that nearly all of them have been on On Track Safari holidays before, several have travelled together before ( a good sign that they are returning customers).

    There are a couple from the South West who live in France now, an American lady and the rest are Brits. All seemed OK on first meeting, a friendly bunch.

    We had a meal in Pickwicks again as the other restaurants were full. It was James turn to have ethe salad and I had Lamb Rogan Josh. We asked for a beena nd ended up with something that looked like thin Guinness and tasted like larger, sort of. We struggled it down though. 

    Our guide was not as personable in any way shape or form but he told us different things about Delhi and the places we went to which was great.

    We both felt more like tourists than travellers with this new group, but our last group probably felt the same about us. 

    We had a Thai meal which was tasty but full of fresh chilli, James was suffering with a blocked up head and the spicy food made his eyes run. At the end of the meal our waitress asked if she could bring him ginger, lemon and honey drink. She had noticed earlier that he was not feeling too bright and brought tissues over. Her kindness was touching.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia Feb/March 2023
    Day 16

    Delhi chilling at The Claridges

    March 9, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We got up about 8.30 after our long train ride the day before. Not bothering with breakfast we had decided to head straight toThe Claridges to chill out. 

    We met Tony and Dave in the lobby.

    Taking a cab it took about half an hour, a leisurely drive, no erratic lane changes and not to much horn blowing. We arrived calm and collected.

    It was all rather overwhelming, such opulence, we were swept in and our bags scanned. An obsequious man in a terrible pin stripe suite took charge of us.

    We were pleased that we were able to check in straight away. Our room was very nice but full of cushions!!

    As you would expect it is beautiful, the lobby has sweeping staircases down both sides and flowers everywhere. Everyone is very polite and wants to help you. We were a bit overcome by it all at first and felt out of place.
    Despite knowing there were four restaurants, investigating the options for food was not as easy as it should be. We had to resort to good old Google as there is no written information anywhere. 

    Venturing down to lunch we chose Pickwicks restaurant in which we could have more or less anything, pasta, pizza, burgers, salads, fish and chips, Indian food and quite a bit more. I had a Cobb salad as I was craving salad and it had avocado in it, along with egg, bacon, chicken, tomatoes, olives, walnuts and a strong blue cheese. It was very tasty and just what I fancied. James shad a club sandwich with yummy chips, which he enjoyed too.

    After this we just vegged in the room. James went to sleep, he is struggling with a cough and nose troubles, so not sleeping at all well. 

    I caught up with a few days diary, editing and trying to match photos up. The photos are being a pain as we both have cameras and phones and trying to coordination them on James tablet is not as easy as it should be.

    We decided that we didn't need any more food, we had some nuts and crisps, so chose to watch a film and have a beer in the room. 

    I slept fairly well but James didn't again    Read more

  • TravelerIndia Feb/March 2023
    Day 15

    Pushkar to Delhi

    March 8, 2023 in India ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    We went onto Pushkar to have breakfast, Tony had suggested we went to a great juice bar. We had fruit, curd and muesli which was absolutely delicious. There were so many different juice choices. I chose one with ginger and the Indian gooseberry which grows on a tree and looks like a greengage.

    We then had a couple of hours shopping time. We brought a t shirt and a drawing book for Lewis.

    Then headed back to the hotel as we were getting the train back to Delhi.
    The train journey was about 7 hours, when we arrived back at the hotel in Delhi we were all ready for a drink.
    It was sad to be saying goodbye to our travel companions from the last two weeks.
    We had all got on really well and enjoyed each others company. They were all kind and good to spend time with.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia Feb/March 2023
    Day 14

    To Pushkar

    March 7, 2023 in India ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    We were picked up to head to the train at 5am so it was an early get up. From Udaipur to Ajmer near to Pushkar is about a 5 hour journey. It went quite quickly although I had a stiff neck from trying to sleep. This quickly passed.

    We went to our hotel to check in and we had a choices to stay at the hotel and relax or go to the Holi colour festival. James went to the festival. The people daub paint on others faces and throw paint powder on each other, this was all light hearted and those who went enjoyed it. They looked a real state covered in paint powder, for those who had put moisturiser on their skin the paint washed off fairly well.

    I had an enjoyable buffet lunch, a swim and read my book.

    Then we went for a walk into town. Pushkar is a touristy place and many Indians were on holiday. The town has a long street with gift shops all along it, jewellery shops, clothes shops, all sorts of gifts including long daggers!

    We went to the lake where people were putting flowers into the water and saying prayers for their dead relatives.

    In the evening we went to a family home to experience a family meal. The family were three brothers who lived with their families in houses on the same plot. We had our meal outside, it was all tasty and just spicy enough for us.
    I would have liked to look at the kitchen but didn't think to ask.
    It poured with huge drops of rain several times during the afternoon and evening.

    Another lovely day.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia Feb/March 2023
    Day 13

    Udaipur cooking and Holi festival

    March 6, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We had signed up for a morning learning to cook some Indian dishes. So headed there at 11. We had great fun, assisting in turn, making a vegetarian lunch and chapattis for our lunch. Chopping and stiring until lunch was ready.
    The food was simple but all the dishes had distinct texture and flavour and we all enjoyed eating our creations.

    We went for a wander I wanted to buy some earrings and a miniature painting.
    In the jewellers I was flummoxed by the prices and seemed to have a more pushy less helpful sales man to help. I looked at a few pairs of earrings and even chose two. They were much more than expensive and I'm sure one pair aren't silver. But I like them and they will remind me to be more switched on next time.

    It was the festival of Holi which meant that the streets were filling with people chanting and getting excited. Towers like trees covered with straw had been built at the crossroads in the town. These were to be set alight in the evening. The crowds were rapidly growing and were getting more excited. A tape was laid down the streets leading to the tower, I thought it would be like a fuse. This it was in a way but it was full of firecrackers and exploded all through the street when lite. We had to run out of the way to avoid the fireworks shooting in all directions.

    James had got left behind when we left the restaurant. He had worked his way round the crowd back to the hotel, with Clare and Norman.
    I was with Karen who was frightened by the firecrackers.
    When the fire reached the tower, the crowd was going mad, there were fireworks in the fire too! All a bit looney!

    I wasn't enjoying the experience and was worried and annoyed that James wasn't to be seen.

    Holi is the festival of colour, celebrating the love between the Gods Radha and Krishna.
    People throw paint powder at each other in the streets..
    We made it back to the hotel through the back streets.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia Feb/March 2023
    Day 12

    Udaipur (Alex's Birthday) City Palace

    March 5, 2023 in India ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Before leaving the castle We asked everyone in the group and the staff to sing Happy Birthday to Alex. This was funny, everyone joined in heartily.

    We spoke to him for a few minutes to wish him well on his day.

    Setting off towards our next destination Udaipur which has one of the largest palaces in India. It was a long journey.

    We checked into our hotel, arriving by Tuktuk as the road was too narrow for anything wider. We swept people and several cows aside to clear our path. The hotel was not attractive from outside but OK within.

    Setting out for a walk led by Tony through the busy streets. Enthusiastic vendors trying to entice us to buy their wares.
    Miniature silk paintings, silver, and leather goods are the speciality here.
    We were warned that there were a lot of not so original items about and that prices could vary for the same things.

    The Palace was on the hill, and was impressive from first site. Several stories high, white and ornate with high balconies and windows. A stone Elephant guarded the entrance. We had a guide to show us around and enlighten us to the ancient history of the place. It had been the seat of the Mewar rulers since seventh Century.

    Once again the Palace was incredible, the carved stonework amazing. So much detail in blue stones, mirror work, stained glass, stunning intricate mosaics, beautiful murals on walls and ceilings. Depicting elephant battles, tiger and deer hunts and daily life hundreds of years ago. Unlike other places we have visited a small area was furnished to show how the women lived.

    Later we all went back to a rooftop bar where earlier we had drinks. We watched the sun go down over the lake.

    Then we went to an amazing tandoori restaurant. We sat under the stars and had an incredible meal. We thought we had ordered far to much as we both ordered dfferent tandoori chicken and a vegetable korma but it was so good we managed to devour most of it.

    This was very different from any other food we had eaten, we appreciated and enjoyed the different taste and texture of the food. The ambiance was great too.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia Feb/March 2023
    Day 11

    Bijaipur

    March 4, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    We didn't have to leave until 9.30 so breakfast was at 8. I slept well, the bed had a nicer, smooth duvet on where as most of the others have been very lumpy and felt like old blankets inside a cover.
    The lake looked beautiful in the morning light, with all the orange coloured flowers on the trees reflecting the light.
    A man with an alsation dog was fly fishing he was hoping to catch snakehead fish? He said with a big head and long body.

    We were picked up in the jeeps that we travelled in yesterday. Visiting a local farm to see what was being grown, was fun. We stopped to look at the crops in a small area, there was coriander and other herbs, garlic, onions, cabbage, chickpeas, and some crops for the cattle.
    We had seen enclosed netted off areas where they were growing poppies for medical companies to make opium. The companies know how much opium each area will produce so there is no room for error!
    The seed heads are scratched after the flowers have fallen, causing them to bleed a back liquid from which the drug is extracted
    If anyone is caught in possession they go to prison for 25 years with no trial.

    It is made by scratching the seed heads to bleed them of the black milk and collecting it. This is done when the poppies have flowered, and before the seeds dry out. It is weighed and a register is kept of the quantity of each yield.

    The lady whose plot we were looking at wasn't happy when one of us went into the netted area. She shouted and banged a stick on her pan that she was making her breakfast in.

    We then went on to the village where we were welcomed like celebrities. Everyone was smiling and waving to us and we saw some happy, smiling children and their families. They all wanted their photo taking, James took lots.
    We saw a lot of bantam like chickens here all scrabbling about in the dust.

    Then back to the jeeps and the bumpy Road and on to our next Heritage stay at Bijaipur.

    It was the most wonderful surprise to arrive at the castle Bijaipur. Built in early sixteenth century the Heritage property is owned by the local King whose family have lived there for thirteen generations.

    We were welcomed with a cold drink and cool flannels to wipe our hands. A garland placed round our necks. The gardens were very colourful and everything well kept, cut flowers floating in water around the pool area.

    Once again we had a beautiful room, with red bedding and a raised seating area infront of a window overlooking the courtyard. We were sitting drinking tea with the window open, I looked up to see a swarm of bees all around outside, heading for the window. Lucky I manage do close it just in time.

    The room had a dressing room and the bathroom was at the far end. The doorways were really low and there was also a step so I was convinced one of us would crash our head in the night but we didn't.

    James didn't feel well, he had a cold and sinus headache so just slept for the afternoon. I made the most of being able to relax, I had my hand henna painted. The girl who did it was very efficient, it took 5 minutes and she drew freehand. She drew four completely different ones payterns and they were all perfect.

    When the henna was set I had a swim, it was great to cool off in the lovely pool. I wasn't going to have a massage due to my fragrance allergy but Carol described the foot and lower leg massage she had and I was up for it.
    This was pure heaven, the masseuse knelt on the couch at my feet as she deeply massaged my calves, under my feet and ankles.

    Dinner was a buffet under the stars, it was a clear night. The food was brilliant, the best yet, slightly sweet, nutty, spicy dhal, mixed vegetables with peas and red carrots that have far more flavour than our orange ones. Split aubergines with spicy sauce, there are several different types of small aubergines here. Very long basmatti rice and spinach with potatoes
    Rice pudding flavoured with cardamon, pistachio and a tiny amount of dried fruit for desert.

    This is the sort of dishes we have had in many places, but this definitely had the most subtle fresh flavours.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia Feb/March 2023
    Day 10

    Paangarh Lake Glamping

    March 3, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    We caught a local train, which was interesting although it was not very busy. We were the focus amongst the local people as they were to us. There was loud music from someone's phone and the people didn't seem at all aware of the noise they were making. Talking loudly and gesticulating vigorously.

    Our next sleep over was a new Indian experience, Glamping in permanent tents on the shore of Lake Paangarh.
    The tents were roomy with double or twin beds and a fully plumbed bathroom at the back. They were prettily decorated with patterned inners with plants and birds on.
    The bed was great!

    We arrived in time for lunch, we chose a mixed veg dish and chickpea dish with butter chapati yummy. It was really tasty food.

    Going for a walk around the lake for a short while after lunch we discovered
    the glamping site was being developed and will soon have a pool, and some lodges overlooking the lake.
    The trees were all in flower ,oranges and pinks so very impressive. There were a lot of the orange ones all together, they looked very pretty.

    We saw some buffalo ahead and a lady watching over them. She shooed then away by throwing a stone at the one who was showing interest in us and they went away. We walked a little further on then decided to go back but the buffalo had followed us. Some of the group were very scared. The buffalo turned to go ahead of us and eventually ran off to the side as people were coming the other way.

    James went for a sleep as he was feeling poorly with a headache.

    We sat by the lake and chatted and had drinks before dinner. The table was beautifully laid with rose petals strewn on it and dinner was very tasty.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia Feb/March 2023
    Day 9

    Bundi

    March 2, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Leaving on our bus we set off for Bundi the other blue town. Stopping on the way to learn what chickpea plants look like, and at a roadside place where they were making bricks. This seemed a very simple process, mix mud with sand and cement and shape it in a mould with identification markings in. Let them dry in the sun. Build a huge stack of bricks layered with coke and straw then set this alight, slowly the bricks are baked as it all smoulders away.

    Bundi is one of the small lesser visited town famous for it's step Wells. We stopped on our way to view one which was dizzying deep. The steps just kept on going down into the slightly murky water. It was beautifully designed with elephants and snakes, and intricate arches at the bottom.

    We were heading to the 16th Century Palace famous for some amazing murals. They were stunning, of elephants fighting and royal processions, the colours still so perfect. The room was dark except when it was opened for viewings.

    We walked back through the town to another step well surrounded by the town Market. It was all very busy, we caused great interest as we meandered along the streets, observing life from hand to mouth. It was colourful and fragrant, lots of garlic on the veg markets. We saw a lady selling chicken peas and tasted a fresh chickpea for the first time.
    The people are very generous and happy to let us try tastes and give a flower to us as we pass by. Most smile as they see us looking and watch us, the interest goes both ways.

    We stayed in another Heritage hotel. Which was ornate with decorative arches in the reception, and carvings. We had a room on the ground floor. Which was comfortable but very basic. I was feeling tired I think as I felt a little disheartened, the bedding was clean but not the smoothest. The pillow well used and maybe I felt a touch homesick.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia Feb/March 2023
    Day 8

    Tiger Ranthambhore N Park

    March 1, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    We had a good breakfast as we were off for a four hour / 200km drive to Ranthambhore National Park. 

    The countryside was mostly arable when we eventually escaped from Jaipur. It was rush hour and the City sprawled on, we went through the modern area of the City, which we had seen at dusk last night. The are is fast developing and there are some very modern smart buildings. 

    We stopped to buy some fruit from roadside sellers and to top up from the ATM.

    Arable land took over as we travelled on. Many fields of mustard seeds were being cut by hand and laid to dry in swathes. 

    It was interesting to see life on the roadside, many individuals doing business, selling a few of this or that. Loan street dogs happily taking themselves, only they knew where. Many, many sacred cows. The cow is sacred as the spirits of the gods reside in them. They represent Mother Nature providing milk for the family. Cows are fed with the first chapatti of the day, so make their way home in time for this in the evening! Many families have a cow for milk to make ghee and curd.

    People place a water container outside their home so that the animals can have a drink. A lot of these cows wander along the road, in either direction. Living and often sleeping in the middle of the road and feeding on whatever they can find. They shuffle through the rubbish which is all over the place, and eat whatever they take a liking to.

    I was disturbed by this as cows can't digest plastic! I imagined it causing blockages and the cows becoming very sick. Then dying a slow snd painful death.
    There are refuges that take in old and ill cows, some cows have as much as 50kg of plastic in their stomach when operated on to remove the blockages.

    Arriving at Raj Palace Ranthambhore we checked into the hotel and were picked up by a huge 20 seater open top vehicle to take us into the game park. 

    Visiting is strictly limited morning and afternoon. The park is divided into 10 areas and the drivers told which they can go to. There are 135 resident tigers. We went to area 3, where a male and female tiger lived. We saw hundreds of peacocks, Indias national bird and several types of deer ( tiger food )!

    The lakes in the park have long grasses growing on the shores, this is apparently where tigers like to hang out. In places the undergrowth was very dense, in other areas trees were well spaced out. We were looking along the banks of the lakes, driving around for some time we thought we were out of luck. Then on the opposite bank we spotted a female tiger in the water with her back to us. She was a beautiful rich colour. She was difficult to see due to the distance and the trees between us. We watched and made sure everyone had spotted her, then I saw her get up and meander up the hill into the bush. I felt quite emotional, what a wonderful experience even though we had only seen her from the distance. 

    We returned to the hotel and sat in the garden for a drink, exhilarated and dusty from the drive. We felt honoured to have seen the tiger.    Read more

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