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Castrogeriz

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Viajeros en este lugar
    • ViajeroBrenda’s Camino
      Día 16

      Hornillos to Castrojeriz

      16 de mayo de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Today I had the most extraordinary Camino experience and not because I spent some time praying in a beautiful church, and lingering at the ancient ruins of a monestrary, but because I met Marguarite who owns this home/hotel in the centre of Castrojeriz. I am her guest tonight.

      She and her husband purchased this ruined home of the early 19th century in the town of Castrojeriz which during the medieval ages was a capital city. They have renovated this home retaining the original structures and the essential “being” of the home. The home begins 3 stories down where originally the cattle and the horses were kept, and continues down another story to a series of tunnels that connect the houses along this street and are purported to travel to the castle on the hill ( which fell to an earthquake in the 18th century). On the upper levels are the main dining hall and kitchens ( yes…two kitchens!), and continuing up 2 more levels of bedrooms.

      Marguarite, the owner and manager, struggles to maintain this home and hotel because she works as a paediatrician in Barcelona and is now divorced, so she opens her home in May and September only. Marguarite along with a housekeeper manage the entire home and the guests. She serves breakfast, does the laundry, greets new guests and cooks an evening meal. She is 63.

      The challenge in Spain to hire workers is a problem because no one wants to work Saturday or Sunday, or during the siesta. Foreign workers do not have the requisite paper work, and the authorities routinely visit monthly for their inspections.

      I am so smitten with this place, I may abandon the next leg of the Camino and stay an extra day in this very sleepy little town in the middle of metesa. I am learning the Camino is not a hike — it may be difficult like a hike, and God knows I have the battered feet to prove it —the Camino is about “arriving”.

      “Arriving” where? That remains a mystery, but one thing about pilgrims is that they are motivated to “arrive”…the ones who are looking, the one’s whose quest is greater than themselves. The Camino every day becomes a filling of our “lostness”, a filling of a deep need to find the centre again.

      The odd thing about today is that yesterday because I focused on the “hike” and enjoyed a vigourous walk without my feet hurting any more than normal, I neglected a small stone church at the side of the Camino. If I had stopped at the stone church, a lovely nun would have given me a small necklace with a golden heart and blessed both the necklace and myself for a safe Camino.

      Today, I did not make that mistake. I slowed down, walked alone, and chose not to leave this house once I arrived. I had a lovely afternoon on a patio practicing silence and reflection and enjoying quiet conversation with a woman named Marguerite who may have changed me. Reminded me.      Leer más

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    • ViajeroCamino de Santiago Spain
      Día 24

      Magical Meseta

      29 de mayo, España ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

      We had our second day walking through the maseta on Wednesday, accompanied by the sound of birds and a Canadian named Helen. We walked 11 km to Hantanas, a small pilgrim village tucked in the fields. I stopped at the El Puntido bar and Albergi for refreshments and sat at an outdoor table on the Camino that passed through the little town.

      My feet decided that the morning walk was enough for the day so I called a taxi to take me to Castrojeriz. The driver was very friendly, she even paused for a moment so I could look at the Arco San Antonio which the ruins of a 16th century ancient convent, Pilgrims can still stay here without electricity but share a meal. It still contains recessed alcoves where bread was left for pilgrims.

      The hotel in Castrojeriz it's very nice and built up into the hill with lovely views looking over the meseta. We toured the tunnels underneath the hotel which were cold and stone places where people in the past kept their animals in wine and who knows what else.

      We walked to dinner with Cheryl at the plaza Mayor and had good pizza and chatted with a digital nomad blogger from Italy.

      As we go to back to the hotel after dinner at 10:00 the sun is still setting. It is so wild to have such long days.      Leer más

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    • ViajeroSchweiz - Spanien
      1
      Día 94

      kraftort

      25 de octubre de 2019, España ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      wir sind erstaunlicherweise sehr schnell aus der stadt burgos gekommen. dies dank der navigation von nik und einem tollen fahrradweg. der morgen war noch kalt und düster und je näher wir nach castrojeriz gefahren sind, desto freundlicher wurde das wetter. auf einer fast verlassenen strasse ist uns ein kleines altes auto entgegenkommen und hat angehalten. es war ein helfer irgendeiner kirche, der uns anhänger und äpfel geschenkt hat und natürlich auch den begehrten camino-stempel. wir haben dann etwas der katholischen kirche gespendet. in castrojeriz haben wir ein bungalow auf dem camping gebucht. im gespräch hat sich herausgestellt, dass der vater des besitzers über 30 jahre in ostermundigen bei der emmi gearbeitet hat und jedes jahr im urlaub nach hause gekommen ist. er hat ab und zu in ostermundigen seine ferien verbracht. in castrojeriz war eine unglaubliche ruhe und richtiger erholungsort nach der stadt burgos. nik radelte und sprang noch auf die riesige burg hoch und machte für uns alle ein video von der unglaublichen aussicht. es war für uns der schönste ort bisher. in der kirche wollten wir eigentlich nur den camino-stempel holen, doch der sigrist der kirche hat uns in beschlag genommen und uns die ganze kirche gezeigt. es war eine unglaubliche anzahl von prunkvollen gegenständen in der kirche ausgestellt. fazit des siegrist über uns war, dass wir wohl nicht immer ganz präsent waren im religionsunterricht. wir durften ihm nicht sagen, dass wir eigentlich reformiert sind. weil im grunde genommen gehen ja vor allem katholiken auf den pilgerweg. das dörfchen war früher grösser als burgos, welche heute eine sehr grosse stadt ist und hatte 5 kirchen und 2 klöster. ein teil der kirchen wurden aufgrund eines erdbebens zerstört. heute sind noch 3 vorhanden und 1 kloster ist in privaten händen.Leer más

    • MikkaTo the End of the World
      3
      Día 12

      4am Coffee

      28 de julio de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      We get up early to avoid the afternoon heat, and 4am freshly brewed coffee and toast are about the greatest of things that can happen to a pilgrim.

      It’s funny how this small things make us happy after a few days in the road.Leer más

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    • ViajeroCamino Francés 2022
      Día 14

      Castrojeriz

      5 de agosto de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      I arrived around midday, checked into albergue Rosalía shortly after, and I was hungry. I went out looking for food before having a shower, but all I could get was snacks. Real food was not available until 1.30. I wasn't very happy about that, but I did want some real food, so selected the restaurant I was going to go to, went back to the albergue to have the shower, and then had my meal in a nice terrace under the shade of a tree.
      Then, back to the albergue for laundry and siesta.
      Later, I went for a walk. I bought anti-inflam cream for my feet and some snacks to carry on the walk tomorrow.
      I had dinner at the albergue with other guests (majority of Germans today), then went out for another walk with Fréderique and Lisa, a mother and daughter from Belgium.
      Very bizarre, meeting 2 Fréderiques, it's not a common name!      Leer más

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    • ViajeroCamino Frances
      21
      Día 32

      Change of plans

      13 de octubre de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      After walking another fairly short day, 11km, I've finally come to the conclusion that my body is not coping very well with this sudden activity. My ankles are now playing up, possibly due to insufficient support walking in sandals. I've been back in my walking shoes for a couple of days but that hasn't saved them and no matter how short I walk, they continue to get worse, not stronger.

      The Meseta also presents some challenges because it is more remote and has less flexible opportunities for buses, taxis, short walks, etc. So today I've decided to catch a bus to Leon tomorrow accompanied by a bunch of Canadians. My feet need rest again, there is no more hoping another short day will wear them in.

      There are only some locations on the Meseta that I can even access transport to Leon and it would take me three days to get to the next one by which time I could be creating permanent problems rather than a temporary one.

      Given the pace I'm going there's still plenty of distance between Leon and Santiago to keep me busy into November. I'll reassess after a day or two in Leon, where I've booked a spa hotel to help rejuvenate. Whatever walking I can do, there are lots of short day options after Leon.

      Today I passed the ruins of a convent and walked through a river valley full of autumn trees. It was the perfect weather and a gentle breeze blew. This evening I'm in Castrojeriz, another hill town full of character and history.

      I was treated to a really yummy pilgrim dinner of salad with hommus, vegetable paella Palencia style (noodles instead of rice), roast chicken and chocolate mousse. I certainly don't miss cooking dinner.      Leer más

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    • WanderklebchenJakobsweg, Part 2
      1
      Día 29

      28. Etappe: Castrojeriz (20,2 km)

      24 de noviembre de 2022, España ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

      Eigentlich startete der Tag gar nicht so schlecht - also abgesehen vom frühen Start. Frühstück gabs zwischen 7 und 8, und um 8 mussten dann auch alle raus 🙈 Aber immerhin war das Frühstück ganz gut, inkl. Müsli 😊
      Und obwohl wir alle aufgegessen hatten, schüttete es in der zweiten Hälfte wie aus Eimern. Wir liefen durch, denn auf dem Weg war leider keine Bar geöffnet. Und so stoppte ich wieder etwas früher als geplant und komplett durchgeweicht. Die heutige Unterkunft ist wieder eine öffentliche Herberge, für unglaubliche 7,50 Euro! Da die Küche nur sehr sparsam ausgestattet ist, werden wir abends eine Bar mit TV aufsuchen und das Brasilien-Spiel ansehen, und gemeinsam mit Luiz sein Heimatland unterstützen 😊      Leer más

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    • ViajeroCamino
      1
      Día 18

      Day 19. Castrojeriz

      17 de mayo de 2023, España ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

      I stayed at a quaint hotel last night along with seven other pilgrims. The hotel itself was like a large house consisting of six guest rooms, each with their own bathroom, a small bar, an even smaller dining room, and a reception area that wasn’t much larger than a walk-in closet. The proprietor shuttled us back and forth, registered us, carried luggage up the stairs and ran the bar that served the 3-4 locals who were there. I arrived there shortly after 2:00 pm, then showered, napped for 30 minutes, then sat on the terrace to write my blog. Dinner started at 7:00, so that’s when all 8 hotel guests gathered at one table in the dining room (photo included). When we registered the proprietor asked us if we wanted dinner, but the reality was there was no other place to eat in this small village. We were 4 Americans, 3 Canadians, and 1 Australian. That was when a lady, I’m assuming his wife, came out offering us a great meal: soup (chicken,potatoes), salad (Mediterranean) , pork medallions, and choice of dessert ( fruit salad, flan, or ice cream). While the lady served us , the proprietor sat back chatting and joking in Spanish. Some people at the table knew enough Spanish to translate, keeping us apprised of what he was saying. It was a great family atmosphere and I was able to pick up enough to find him entertaining. We had many good laughs with him picking on me because I was the solo hombre (the only man).
      At 7:30 am we had a quieter breakfast, with only the lady working, and shortly after 8:00 am the proprietor shuttled us back to the same place he had picked us up yesterday. Once again, it was cold (5 degrees) , but few clouds, and after an hour or so, a strong tailwind picked up. Hundreds of wind turbines here. The walking was easy today, a 20 km trek, mostly level, with a stop at the small pilgrim village of Hontanas, and later at the ruins of a 9th century castle.
      Today, I connected with a young girl from Austin, Texas who recently graduated with her doctorate in physiotherapy. This trip is her reward to herself for having finished her schooling before going to a full-time job in Vail, Colorado. Two people she had previously met, an agronomist from Chile, who grows all kinds of berries, and a Spanish literature teacher, joined us. The Chilean spoke English fluently, and translated for the literature teacher, who just spoke a little English. My sense is that 70% of the pilgrims speak Spanish as their first language, which makes sense since we’re in Spain. If I were to come again, I would try to learn more Spanish beforehand. Chatting with other pilgrims makes the time fly by. So many interesting stories. However, early in the mornings, I do enjoy my reflective time. We’re generally quieter then, less apt to chat.      Leer más

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    • Azores and Camino 2023
      2
      115114222
      Día 26

      Caminowy Mysz Masz

      13 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

      Dzisiejszy krótszy dystans sprzyjał robieniu większej ilości zdjęć. A było co uwieczniać, zaczynając od idealnie błękitnego nieba, które wraz z naturą i historią tworzyły doskonały koloryt. Dodatkowo nawinęlo się parę pomysłów na urozmaicenie przydomowych ogródków i parę sympatycznych zwierzątek ... i od razu uzbierało się kolejnych 20 zdjęć 😊Leer más

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    • ViajeroCamino
      1
      11
      Día 26

      Castrojeriz to Fromista

      29 de septiembre de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Unfortunately we were not successful in locating a bar last night that was going to play the rugby, in fact I don't think much happens in Castrojeriz. However we did have a great pilgrim dinner and they were serving garlic soup so the boys were very happy as photo will show. Note the glasses our darling waiter is wearing! We got back to our wonderful roomy bedrooms and listened to the rugby on the RWC app which was pretty good and much healthier than propping up a bar. Great win so went to sleep happy.
      We got up at 530 and were on the road by 6.15 knowing the day was going to be hot. The mornings as usual was just beautiful with a nearly full moon lighting up the way although we did need our torches. We had quite a climb of 150 metres ascent but luckily it was nice and cool. When we got to the top the views of the surrounding valleys were stunning with the moon still up and the sun rising in the east. One thing we miss is the dawn chorus and all we heard was one lonely crow.
      Down we trekked into a valley leading us to Fromista. We crossed over a beautiful old bridge with mist coming off the river and the sun rising behind us. By the time we had walked 11 km with not much food inside us we were desperately hoping a cafe would be open and luckily Brian found a bar/ cafe . It was full of the local hombres who were enjoying some sort of liqueur drink. This was at 10 am but it was a Saturday and who are we to judge!
      We rested awhile over coffees and big bread rolls of pastrami and cheese, called bocadillos. That totally revived us so on we went for 14 more km with the day getting hotter and hotter. We passed fields of fresh cut hay( love the smell of that) and dying sunflowers. It was the first irrigation we had seen so there was a bit of greenery and a few old castle ruins. Not unsimiliar to walking through Central Otago minus the sunflowers.
      5 km from Fromista we came across another village and nothing was happening here at all . It was like walking into one of those deserted towns in a western. What we wouldn't have done for a cold drink there!
      On we walked, although my walk becomes a plod after about 20 km. Luckily we walked along a canal and even had some trees to give a bit of shade. We do have lots of chats as we walk but usually that has tapered off in the last few km! I walked and talked for a few km with Gail from North Carolina who dined with us last night and was a great person to while away a few km with.
      Finally in the heat of the midday sun we arrived at Fromista with a declining population of 840 and for a Spanish village on a Saturday it seems quite lively.
      Our hotel is quaint and our bedroom overlooks the stunning Iglesias de Martin X1 C for which Fromista is famous for. But as beautiful as the sight of this amazing church was, a more appealing view was that of the bar serving cold beers. It too had lots of locals lazily sipping the afternoon away.
      Now it's siesta time before we venture out to explore ,but as it's 30 outside it won't be for awhile.
      Just a note on the team of eight ( our feet) . None of our feet have let the team down to date and no blisters so we are very pleased as we come across so many pilgrims in terrible distress that can hardly walk, often young ones but no,
      our team are soldiering on. Long may it last.
      Siesta time      Leer más

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