Spain
Cee

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    • Day 44

      Olveiroa to Cee

      June 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Today was a good day. Walked with friends, we had a bit of sunshine, some rain. We stopped in a cafe for coffee, and later stopped at a picnic when a herd of cows followed a farmer and the dog (not a border collie....) and the wife through the picnic space. They seemed to have it all figured out, including the cows.

      We arrived in Cee which historically is a whaling town, and now it is a bustling seaside industrial and robust fishing centre. The first views of the sea were striking since I have nearly walked 900 km across the top of northern Spain from east to west, and the sight of water is striking. Yesterday, we saw a lake, and though we have seen a few rivers, by Canadian standards we might call them creeks, and today seeing that soon there will be no where left to walk was actually a bit alarming.

      Also noteworthy, this region is also famous for a werewolf. In the mid 15th century, in recorded documents, currently kept at a library in Paris, a group of 20 pilgrims were attacked and killed by a werewolf like creature. I have attached a picture of the creature. Kathy, Laurel and I did not encounter the werewolf on our travels, but a person is advised to not travel alone or at night.

      Well oddly enough, tomorrow is the end of the road...literally and figuratively for me. There is no where else to go, and since I can't walk on water, I will have to decide. And also finally after 900 km, my legs don't hurt, my feet are healed, my burn is nearly invisible, and my more recent spider bites appear to also be healing. Perhaps it is symbolic. All my physical challenges are healed, and so, therefore, all my spiritual and emotional challenges are also healed. I shall find out tomorrow when I reach "the end of the earth".
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    • Day 40

      Day 38. Finnestar, end of the world

      June 14 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

      All routes of the Camino de Santiago culminate at the Cathedral de Santiago, but pilgrims would often continue on the Finnestar, Spain, also known as "the end of the world", since it was thought to be the most western point in Spain. Our camino is over, but we wanted to experience Finnestar, so after bussing 60 miles, we climbed to the rocky point at the end of the world. Also had a chance to dip my feet into the ocean, enjoy some seafood, take in the scenery. Back to Santiago tomorrow!Read more

    • Day 37

      Almost there!

      August 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      After Cee came Concurbión, and then a few more villages close together. The sun came out for short periods, it's like it was wrestling with the fog.
      The whole day stayed cool, probably under 20°C - perfect for hiking.Read more

    • Day 37

      Finis Terrae

      June 28 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

      This morning I woke up without a plan, and that was a great thing! I knew I wanted to go to Finisterra, but the timing was still unclear. I was eating breakfast when suddenly I got the feeling I needed to take the 10:00 am bus. Most regular people want to arrive about 30 minutes before the bus leaves, but not me. It was 9:19 when I decided I should take the bus, and it took 22 minutes to walk to the station. I arrived at the station at 9:56. Luckily for me, buses in Spain are not so punctual.

      I arrived in Finisterra 90 minutes later. On the way, I found another donation-based albergue about 12 km from Finisterra, closer to the town of Corcubion. I decided I wanted to stay there tonight, but it was in the opposite direction of Muxia and didn’t open until 4:00. I took advantage of the extra time, and walked to the End of the World lighthouse. It was magical. It felt like a much better end to the Camino, with nature and serenity, as opposed to Santiago, with the chaos of so many stores and people.

      On my way back, I met two amazing girls from Mexico (Alma) and Argentina (Ro). I instantly connected with them! They had done six days of the Camino Portuguese, and even though their Camino was shorter than mine, they still received all of the goodness that I had. I loved that realization! When I was planning my Camino, I had thought I needed to walk so far to gain the knowledge of the Camino. But it’s not the case. You only have to be open to the gifts of the Camino to receive them. It was only 3.5 km together, but we discussed all the goodness of the Camino and life. We then shared the world’s best empanadas and torta de Santiago before they headed back to Santiago. I nearly changed all of my plans to follow them to Barcelona!🙈

      I then started to walk to my albergue about 12 km away. The walk was stunning! I’m so glad I came here. I walked through pine forests and past amazing beaches and beach towns. It was exactly where I wanted to be—not in a resort in Portugal! I’m excited to relax and spend a few casual cool-down days here.

      As I was walking, I ran into my friend Maurio again. He was finishing his Camino today! I was glad to see him one last time. He said he planned to play Queen's "Don’t Stop Me Now" as he walked to Finisterra.

      The albergue is wonderful. Very simple, but the hospitalero is wonderful. His name is Josep, and he is volunteering here for 15 days to see what the other side of being on the Camino is like. We shared a beautiful but simple meal of salad, tortilla, and lentil soup. There is only one other pilgrim here, but we both knew our friend Fernando, who I met on the Camino del Norte and he met on the Camino Primitivo. Josep gave us each a hand-drawn card to remember our stay at the albergue! I made the right decision to walk backward today! Three strangers sat at the table tonight and spoke for 2.5 hours. How is this possible? I don’t know, but it’s what I love most about being a pilgrim. Seriously, I was really grateful to be out of my solitary princess palace room and back in the community environment of the albergue.
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    • Day 38

      The Beginning of the End

      August 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      I have arrived at the End of the World. The beginning of it, at least. From here I’ll spend a day in Finisterre (Romans called this area “finis terrae” the end of the world) and then walk along the coast to Muxia, the end of my journey.

      How does it feel? Unreal at times, it feels simultaneously like yesterday and a lifetime ago, that I walked the hot and dusty roads of the Meseta.

      I still (after many Caminos) can’t wrap my head around having walked 1000 kilometers across a country to be here.

      But here we are. The end of the world. Where the sun goes to die, where the stars guided me since the first night in Navarra.
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    • Day 37

      Corcubion

      August 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      After a night in the industrial harbor part of Cee that is best never spoken or written about, I left late, had coffee, and am now in the next seaside town of Corcubion.

      This isn’t my final destination, which lies uphill between here and Finisterre, a short walk away. Good thing it’s close, too, as the albergue is between nowhere and nothing, meaning I am carrying five extra kilos of food for tonight and tomorrow morning.Read more

    • Day 37

      Cee

      August 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Cee was larger than I expected. Being Sunday, there was a 'mercadillo' and we headed there thinking it was a food market, but it was a clothes market 🤷🏻‍♀️
      However, there were shops all around, including a confitería. We bought some cake and pastries, and took them with us to a place that served coffee.
      When I was almost finished with my morning tea, another German guy turned up. I saw him before. He started to speak in German with Jan, completely ignoring me. Even after I said hello, he didn't acknowledge me. I found him very rude. To top it off, he pulled out a cigarette. I was out of there before he could light it.
      No idea wtf was wrong with this guy, I didn't get that kind of attitude from anyone else in the whole trip.
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    • Day 16

      Olveiroa - Cee (19,5km)

      July 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Raus aus der Stadt, rauf auf den Camino! Mit dem Bus flüchteten wir vom pulsierenden, reizüberflutenden Santiago nach Olveiroa und trafen einen Camino an, wie wir ihn von unseren Anfangstagen her kannten: beinahe menschenleer und deshalb so wunderschön.
      Auf geschotterten Höhenwegen liefen wir vorbei an Stausee und Windrädern, stärkten uns zwischendurch in einer abgelegenen Bar (O Casteliño, die einzige Bar auf fast 15 km!) und passierten einen wahrhaftigen Kraftort, die Capilla da Nosa Señora das Neves, mit einer von Pilgern errichteten Gedenkstätte.
      Und da war es endlich! Laut unserem Reiseführer noch berührender als der Anblick von Santiagos grandioser Kathedrale: das Meer! Wie eindrücklich diese Weite sein kann!
      Nach einem steilen Abstieg erreichten wir bald das kleine Küstenstädtchen Cee, wo wir heute in der schönen Pensión Beiramar nächtigen werden. Morgen bestreiten wir unsere allerletzte Etappe zum Kap Finisterre.
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    • Day 37

      Last leg to Finisterre

      August 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Yesterday afternoon was so hot, I didn't want to get caught out again. So, this morning I started walking in the dark, on my own. I was the first one to leave the albergue.
      It was foggy, "I can see the air", I thought! I like the fog, it makes great pictures 🙂

      The landscape kept changing. There was a long stretch without any villages, and about halfway to the destination there was a town called Cee.
      After the first 7k or so, with some daylight already, I found a picnic area and stopped there for a self catered breakfast.
      Jan caught up with me about 4k before Cee. and we were keen to get there and go to a cafe.
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