Hiszpania
Las Herrerías

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    • Dzień 37

      Day 33: Vega de Valcarce to O Cebreiro

      19 czerwca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

      Mileage: 8 miles, but…
      Altitude gain: 2,290 feet
      Altitude loss: 135 feet
      Weather: cool and cloudy: light rain for the last mile or so, and heavy rain in the evening
      Total mileage: 391 miles

      The first two miles of the day continued the gradual ascent along the river, with lovely misty views of the mountains. I stopped in the village of Las Herrerías for a pit stop and more coffee, when I came upon my Spanish friend Monica. She, of course, has collected a group of international friends, some of whom I met at coffee. She’s also developed blisters, so I think she was glad to walk slower with me. The next six miles were more or less straight up! We encountered a school group of 12-year olds walking (can you imagine being *that* teacher??) and made some other new friends. The views as we rose were spectacular, even with the rain clouds developing all around us.

      We arrived at the top of the mountain midafternoon and had a celebratory beer. I took a nap and had a little soak in my unexpected bathtub! Dinner was a better-than-usual pilgrims’ dinner.

      Only seven more days to go! I’m both sad that it’s almost over and also totally exhausted, so the thought of not punishing my feet and legs quite so much any more is appealing!

      1., 2., 3. Misty morning. Look for the castle on the mountain in 1.
      4. In Las Herrerías
      5. and 6. Very steep but pretty!
      7. Stopping to take in the views was quite rewarding and allowed me to rest.
      8. Traffic was heavy! There were also horses returning to Las Herrerías since some people ride to the top instead of walking.
      9. The view from the top
      10. I don’t know what these structures are called but there have been a number of them in this area.
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    • Dzień 28

      Day 25 - Rain, rain, go away

      10 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      ”The nicest thing about the rain is that it always stops. Eventually.” – Eeyore

      Day 25 - Trabadelo to Las Herrerias - 10.5km

      Woke up to darker than average skies and a weather forcast the promised heavy rains all day. Oh yay…. I had decided to see how my ankles would hold up under my pack weight again since it was a shorter walking day. I was regretting that decision this morning, knowing I’d have to walk in the rain.

      As it was a short day, I was in no hurry to leave Casa Susi. I was able to help a bit with the pilgrim area by putting all the dishwasher load away and cleaning up after breakfast from the other pilgrims. It will be one less thing Susi and Fermin have to worry about when they get up.

      I was one of the last our the door and not until 8:40 am. Thankfully it was just overcast and no longer raining. I took advantage and motored along hoping it would stay only overcast. And it did, for the first 4+ km. Then it was drizzling and raining harder. I’d had the forethought to at least put my poncho on my waist strap so it was easy enough to get out and put on. As soon as I did though, it felt like an oven under the poncho. I was already hot from the faster than average walk, and the poncho made it worse. Luckily there was a town only a couple of km away, so I was able to stop for a tea and get the heck out of the poncho! When I was ready to get moving again, the rain had passed (for the time being) and I was able to make good headway again.

      Another day of walking along a winding country roadway, which isn’t ideal. But at least I am still by a river and the sound of running water is lovely. There are also a lot more farms with livestock, along this route. I took the time to watch the cows and sheep, and saw some birds dive bombing the calves in one field. Dell spite the drizzle, rai and cloud cover, it was at least a nice walk.

      Only 2km from my destination, it started pouring again. Back into the poncho only to walk 100ft and see a lovely cafe. I was going to pass it by but the breakfast menu caught my eye and, I was hours too early for check in at my next Albergue. So, I stopped again. What the heck - I have nothing but time today, so why not get out of the rain.

      I had a fabulous bacon and egg breakfast, hot tea, and sat chatting with other pilgrims for over an hour until the skies cleared. Off I went for the last 1.5km of the day, with a belly full of food and a determination not to put the stupid poncho on again.

      Soon enough I was at my Albergue and was able to wait in a dry (but cold) library until reception opened at 2pm. Happy to have a lower bunk again!! As usual, got to know the other pilgrims over a glass of wine. Spent some time planning my next stages and enjoyed another vegetarian pilgrim dinner. We were also treated to Alun for Wales who sang a Welsh hymn and Rushia from Poland who played the guitar that was in the Albergue dining room. Lovely evening all round!

      Hope the rain goes away over night so the trek up O Cebreiro tomorrow isn’t too bad!
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    • Dzień 36

      Las Herreiras

      10 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Rozpoczęliśmy bądź dzień jak zwykłe pełni nadziei i zaufania, że będzie kolejnym cudownym dniem. Trasa troszeczkę powyżej 20 km, no dokładnie 24. 😁. Prognoza pogody mało przyjazna, dużo deszczu ale nadzieja jest, że może będzie nie za dużo. Dzisiejsza droga, tym razem asfaltowa, wzdłuż szosy, bardzo łagodnie pięła się pod górę, na szczęście w bardzo przyjazny sposób. Zdecydowanie zmieniło się ukształtowanie terenu, myślałem, że weszliśmy już do Galicji, ale to dopiero jutro. Poza górami zrobiło się bardzo zielono i wilgotno. Dużo drzew kasztanowych i figi pojawiły się na nowo. Minęliśmy parę małych wioseczek, pierwsze dwie wioseczki wyglądały na opuszczone i nic nie było otwarte, rozpadające się domy no i później jeszcze dołączył się deszcz. Piękna malutka ermiteria w La Portfela de Valcarce pojawiła się po lewej stronie jak opuszczaliśmy wioskę. Po drodze się bardzo rozpadało także przesiedzieliśmy w barze czekając na koniec deszczu umilając sobie czas rozmawiając z Annete z Australii no i później już tylko 4 km do miejsca docelowego.
      Nie było żadnych zabytków także nie trzeba było się nigdzie ruszać .
      Obiad był doskonały, Wino do obiadu to butelka bez naklejki na dwie osoby, bardzo pyszne. Po zapłaceniu rachunku dostaliśmy brendy od casa na dobre trawienie. Tak w ogole to wino i inne trunki są tańsze od wody. Jutro czeka nas ciężki dzień.
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    • Villafranca to Las Herrerías

      27 września 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

      Today we took an alternate route out of Villafranca to Pradela and on to Trabadelo to reconnect with the traditional Camino. It was a steep climb but the views were superb.

      We ate breakfast at a fantastic little albergue in the town in the mountains only reachable by a jeep trail. We saw a lot of chopped wood stored for heat in the winter. Farm raised eggs and Spanish bacon with a fruit smoothie for breakfast.

      Now we are in las Herrerías awaiting dinnertime and resting for our climb over O’Cebreiro tomorrow.
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    • Dzień 24

      Leon … done

      9 sierpnia 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

      The sun is setting over my last day in the province of Leon. Tomorrow, somewhere up the hill, I’ll be entring Galicia.

      The landscape has changed drastically, from a flat, barren, and dusty scenery to lush greens and steep inclines and declines. It rained a bit today, and did yesterday as well, which feels good on the skin and for the soul.

      Updates will be more frequent now, including videos, since I have crushed my time goal to O Cebreiro, leaving me space for a more casual and leisurely stroll over the final 320 kilometer.
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    • Dzień 34

      Stage 31: Herrerias-Triacastella

      16 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      It would have been 28.9 km/17.9 miles but I stopped at Fonfria and took a taxi the last 9 km/5.4 miles. I was beat after the dramatic climb to O Cebreiro and then the descent, plus it was threatening to rain. Entering the province of Galicia, the climate immediately changed to overcast, cool, windy and moist, reminding me of the Pacific Northwest. I'm checked into the very cozy Casa David, contemplating dinner options. Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 32

      Villafranca del Bierzo to Los Herrerios

      6 października 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      We left the beautiful village of Villafranca del Bierzo at 7:30 this morning in the dark and it was a chilly start but we tough Canadians plodded on with just our shorts and t-shirts, while all the other pilgrims were all bundled up. It was a steady uphill climb into the mountains all along the Rio de Valcarce. Once the sun rose, it warmed up quickly. We made really good time and were surprised to see our beautiful hotel so soon into our 20km hike. It was like an oasis. Such a spectacular hotel surrounded by the mountains and sheep and cows (with bells) grazing below our terrace. This is a place we would love to come back to and spend a few days in the area and just enjoy the serenity. Tomorrow morning we make a big climb up to O’Cebreiro. We are looking forward to some amazing sunrise views. Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 45

      Und sonst noch...

      28 kwietnia 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Wir treffen schon seit Wochen Wanderer, die dem "Camino der Santiago" folgen, darunter auch viele Deutsche. Heute checken wir in einer sog. "Auberge" ein, in der auch die Pilger nächtigen. Na ja, wir haben dann doch ein Zweibettzimmer dem großen Schlafsaal vorgezogen🤭🥴😊
      Und wir hatten einen schönen Ausblick. Kühe mit Glocke - das kann noch lustig werden.Hier laufen sogar die Pferde alleine durchs Dorf🤭😀
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    • Dzień 29

      Alto de Poio

      19 września 2019, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Aufbruch 6:45 h, um die knapp 10 km zum Stall zu bewältigen. Viktor ist vor 7 Jahren aus seinem Leben als Broker ausgestiegen, hat ein Haus am Camino und 7 Pferde gekauft und führt 1-2x täglich von Mai bis November Pilgergruppen auf den Berg. Er kann sich kein anderes Leben mehr vorstellen. Sieht übrigens aus wie Antonio Banderas.
      Nach dem sehr glücklichen Erreichen des gefürchteten steilen Anstiegs nach O Cebreiro auf dem Rücken eines Pferdes servierte man uns tolle Tapas und kannenweise (!) Tinto de Verano. Es war erstaunlich angenehm, in der Sonne zu sitzen, und zu relaxen und international über Gott und die Welt zu quatschen.
      Der Weg war natürlich bezaubernd schön und da ich das Tetenpferd bekommen habe, hatte ich vermutlich die beste und barrierefreie Sicht :). Dafür musste ich aber ordentlich treiben, Bonny ist trittsicher, aufmerksam, umsichtig und intelligent, aber auch furchtbar faul :-)).
      Nachdem es dann auch unsere Rucksäcke es via Transportfirma es auf den Berg geschafft haben, sind wir weitergegangen und mussten noch einige steile Auf- und Abstiege bewältigen, insgesamt nochmal 10 km. Wir wären gerne schon ein Dorf vorher geblieben, aber die Herberge war schon voll. Da es anfing, brütend heiß zu werden und auf den Bergen hinter uns zu gewittern, sind wir regelrecht gerannt und völlig erledigt hier in Alto de Poio (ca 1200m) angekommen. 3 Betten? Kein Problem. Zum Essen habe ich eine Bohnensuppe bekommen (weiße und frische grüne Bohnen) und als Hauptgang schmackhaft gegartes Gulasch, Kartoffeln waren irgendwie fast ausgegangen, aber nun, es gab ja Brot....
      Konnte auch nochmal alles waschen lassen und im Trockner "grillen", um etwaige Bettwanzen loszuwerden.
      Morgen geht's für Patti und mich weiter nach Samos in ein Kloster. Lauren hat Knieprobleme und wird wohl zurückbleiben.
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    • Dzień 3

      O Cebreiro

      1 września 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

      7 mile easy walking to the top of O Cebrero. Definitely seeing a bunch more pilgrims. Ended up walking for a while with a 76 year French guy who’s walking at a pretty good pace.

      Finally some real hiking trails, almost like Mount Tam 😀

      From Camino blogs this is supposed to be very strenuous but it’s not bad at all. Still nice to take it easy for a few days though. Planing to leave earlier tomorrow morning so I can take time going down the mountain. Up is easy, down probably not so much.

      I could probably use my walking sticks that I bought in Ponferrada and left behind the next morning 🤔😀 oh well!!!

      The Casa Carolo is comfortable, but nothing too exciting, just a comfortable small room.

      Special!
      I attended the evening mass at the Santuario the Cebreiro, and at the end the priest had all the pilgrims come to the front in a circle and he called people up to read the pilgrims blessing in all languages represented. He then gave everyone a small stone with the yellow camino arrow.
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    Możesz znać też następujące nazwy tego miejsca:

    Las Herrerías, Las Herrerias, 24526

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