Spain
Oviedo

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    • Day 21–25

      Oviedo, Asturias, Spain

      November 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

      It's rainy and a bit dreary now that we moved east to Asturias, but I don't mind. It's in the low to mid 50's F and we scored a huge apartment not far from the bus and train stations. Alfonso, our host, even picked us up at the front! Now that's service. After our tiny apartmtent in Santiago, we're ecstatic about the space and it cost a mind-boggling $60 or so per night.

      Our bus here took 4 1/2 hours and was one of the nicest buses I've been on. It was a "Supra" bus on Alsa lines. It didn't seem to cost much more than the others, but it had 3 leather seats across and was more like a first class plane experience, with lots of movies to choose from on the way. There was even a screen showing the speed of the bus, the location on the map, and the ETA, just like on a plane.

      We arrived at night, but set out right away to get some provisions and even made it to a local Vermouth tapas bar down the street. Americans usually only use vermouth in dry martinis, but we discovered the joy of Spanish Vermouth in Madrid and Malaga a few years ago. It's sweeter and served from barrels and with ice. We opted for glasses of Rioja and Alberinho wines this time with a light dinner of garlic Langostinos in olive oil. I was still pretty full from our last meal in Santiago. They're known for their meats and for the first time on the trip, we didn't have any seafood. We ordered a recommended meat plate for two to split. Even then, it was too much but it was a churrasco of various pork cuts. Six hours later, a couple of delicious shrimpys was all I needed.

      There's not a lot of tourism here, especially in November, and that might be why I like it. It's just locals going about their day. I think Oviedo is about the same size as Madison, but there are hundreds of 6-12 story buildings everywhere. Deanne's fighting a cold, so I walked out today solo and hit the Fine Arts museum. There's a great collection of Spanish work, and I especially loved the 2 rooms of Sorolla's. There's a new wing built on to two connected palaces. It was easy and fun to get lost in there.

      Outside, I saw that they're putting the finishing touches on their Christmas market in two locations. And I got a haircut. There's no shortages of barbers and hair stylists here. I walked by about 8 on the way to the barber I found online and then saw at least 5 more walking later. And I'm just in the center, not far from the old town. I like how the city is laid out. It's mostly modern with wide streets and boulevards. That's totally different from what we've seen on this trip so far.

      Deanne felt better by the next day, so we did the day trip to Gijon. Today is now our last full day here and we spent it just walking around in a light rain and enjoying the sights, which is pedestrian shopping streets, a beautiful central park, lots of statues including a Botero, and lots of amazing architecture. I took Deanne back to the museum and enjoyed it just as much the 2nd time. We found a nice local restaurant and ordered the set menus for $13 Euros. It was four courses and one included the Fabada, the amazing bean and sausage dish I had yesterday in Gijon. It was even better today! Once again, we're so full from these set late lunches that we just snack at home for dinner. We have not adjusted to going out to dinner at or after 9 pm. We're not even hungry by then.

      It's been a great town to just chill out in. We love it. But tomorrow we take an express bus to Bilbao after passing right through Cantabria. Bilbao is in Basque Country and we plan on going to the famous Guggenheim museum there and enjoying the sights in the Casco Viejo, or old town.

      More photos and videos are here. https://photos.app.goo.gl/XPMBrjztokMoUN8y8
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    • Day 34

      Camino Primitivo

      May 8 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

      (Bert) Der Camino Primitivo gilt als älteste Wegführung des Jakobsweges. Er führt von der asturischen Hauptstadt Oviedo auf 310 Kilometer in anspruchsvoller Weise über Lugo nach Santiago de Compostela. Wir fahren in heute sozusagen in umgekehrter Richtung, sehen viele Pilgerwanderer die Straße kreuzen und manchmal auch am Straßenrand marschieren. Hunderte von Kurven durch oft karstige Landschaft, zumeist auf etwa 1.000 Höhenmetern, mit gelegentlichen Blicken auf den etwas südlich von uns liegenden Hauptkamm der Pyrenäen; dort sind einige Gipfel noch schneebedeckt. … Bei einer Kaffeepause plaudern wir mit englischen Bikern, die mit schwerem Gerät (Goldwings) unterwegs sind; es gibt eine gute Fährverbindung von Portsmouth nach Santander, da bietet sich eine Motorradreise durch Portugal Spanien an. By the way: Die Sozia der weißen Gold Wing ist blind; wieviel Vertrauen kann man haben? … Die Übernachtung ist verdächtig günstig. Das hat natürlich einen Grund, den wir allerdings erst vor Ort erfassen. Das riesige, baulich spektakuläre Kongresscenter in Oviedo, in dem auf einigen Stockwerken noch ein Hotel betrieben wird, scheint teilweise verlassen, vielleicht ist es auch baufällig. An der Rezeption werden wir aufgefordert, in die Tiefgarage zu fahren, auch wenn es nicht so aussehen würde, dass man da hinein fahren könne. So ist es dann auch. Abenteuerlich … Norbert entdeckt eine Sportsbar, in der wir ein Cachopo tradicional essen, eine Art galizisches Cordon bleu. Es ist unfassbar groß und tröstet uns darüber hinweg, dass Manu Neuer kurz vor Schluß den Ball nicht festhalten kann. Real 2, Bayern 1.Read more

    • Day 42

      Cathedral of Oviedo

      June 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Oviedo is another major player in the #caminodesantiago and also has an amazing cathedral started before Leon’s cathedral and based in the Romanesque style. What struck me about this place was fewer tourists and a vibrant local economy. I loved the statues/bronzes on street corners, in Plazas, on seats, or, just sitting there. It’s a project I decided to have fun with.Read more

    • Day 14

      Besuch in der Perle Asturiens

      June 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Heute waren wir in Orviedo um uns mit Alba, unserer ehemaligen Wooferin vom GENERATIONENHOF, da zu treffen. Da sie noch bis 16 Uhr arbeiten musste, haben wir den Tipp von ihr bekommen, auf eine Erhöhung zu fahren, von welcher man ein tolles Panorama über die ganze Stadt hat. Hier sind wir umher gewandert, haben ein kleines Picknick eingenommen und die Seele baumeln lassen. Im Anschluss haben wir uns mit Alba im Zentrum der Stadt getroffen. Wirklich toll eine Führung von einer echten Orviatenserin zu bekommen. Sie hatte Interessantes zu erzählen und nahm sich sehr viel Zeit für uns, die Besonderheiten der Stadt und auch der Region näher zu bringen. Nach dem Rundgang sind wir in ein Pub gegangen um ein kühles Cerveza zu nippen. Hier stieß Jesus, Albas Freund zu uns. Nachdem wir recht schnell mit den Getränken durch waren, führte uns Alba in ein ganz tolles regionales Spezialitäten Restaurant um uns in die Kulinarik der Region einzuführen. Das war wirklich eine tolle Erfahrung. Es war ein sehr schicker, auf den ersten Blick touristischer Ort. Wie sich aber herausstellte könnten wir hier authentische Spanische Küche probieren und den in den Region sehr bekannten Cidra trinken. Eine Art Apfelwein, der vom Kellner sehr artistisch, aus einer gewissen Höhe in ein speziell dafür vorgesehenen Glas buxiert wird. Dabei bekommt man nur ein Schluck, der sofort wie ein Schnaps getrunken werden muss. Der Kellner kommt von Zeit zu Zeit immer wieder an den Tisch und wiederholt den Gaudi. Nachdem die Teller leer und die Mägen voll waren, verabschiedeten wir uns von den Beiden und fuhren wieder zu Pablo und dessen Frau, deren Namen ich immer noch nicht weiß. 😅 Morgen geht es in Richtung Nordportugal auf einen Campingplatz.Read more

    • Day 17

      First day in Oviedo and rugby game

      June 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

      Now that I am with Lucas, the solo part of my trip is essentially over (except one day in between dad leaving and going to Paris), which is pretty wild. It’s great to see Lucas and of course I am getting much more Spanish practice in now as we are not using any English. Lucas had his last rugby match of the season today, it was cool to be able to see it although I didn’t understand a lot of the sport. He is on a professional team here that is essentially in the Spanish B league. There were more fans than I expected, maybe 1000-1500 people. Lucas’s team won by a solid margin and he got a try (touchdown) himself. One of the guys told me he is the best player on the team. Afterwards I went out with him and the guys on his team, which was fun but it was also hard to make conversation with them - not so much because of the language barrier but a cultural barrier. It was pretty easy to understand and talk to them but they are not nearly as conversational as Americans. They aren’t chatty and will respond to questions you ask but won’t ask anything back. It was not a problem though because I just hung out with Lucas and talked with him most of the night. And I did meet a couple of chatty people but they were other foreigners who played on the team. Overall an interesting and fun day!Read more

    • Day 3

      Camino Primitivo First Day On The Way

      April 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

      Another day filled with hustle and bustle. We rose at 5 am to catch a train from Madrid to Oviedo, only to be greeted by rain upon our arrival. Our first stop was the Cathedral, where we obtained our pilgrim's book and embarked on a tour. Inside, we marveled at the reliquary room housing remarkable artifacts, including a shroud believed to be from Christ’s burial and a fragment of His cross. Notably, Pope St. John Paul II himself had prayed in front of these sacred relics and the renowned statue of Jesus. After a meal, we set off on foot, covering 12 miles to reach the quaint town of Paladin. Despite the challenging terrain, the breathtaking vistas made the journey worthwhile. Our stay at the Paladin Albergue, a charming family-owned establishment, was nothing short of exceptional. Here, we indulged in a refreshing cold beer, savored a delicious home-cooked meal made from the host family’s farmed ingredients, and replenished our energy for the night ahead. Tomorrow promises another demanding trek of 22 miles, prompting concerns from our host about the rigorous ascent. Nevertheless, we remain optimistic. Although I'm unable to share my video due to the lack of WiFi, rest assured, it will be uploaded at the earliest opportunity.Read more

    • Day 1

      Oviedo

      July 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Début de chemin, pas vraiment.
      Je passe à Oviedo en Bus, je m'y arrête pour quelques courses, j'ai passé la nuit à l'auberge municipale. Ce soir je pars au Centre Mandala, préparer mon paquetage de pèlerin, départ effectif demain matinRead more

    • Day 1

      Day 1 / Día 1

      September 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      After being in Madrid for some days, I decided it was time to walk. I took a train from Madrid to Oviedo, and arrived there by noon. My idea was to stay and explore the city for one night, but once I got to the Cathedral to get my Pilgrimage Credential, everything changed✨
      I felt the urge of being out in nature, walking and starting my journey towards Santiago.
      I walked for 5kms to reach the Municipal Albergue in the town of Escamplero. I paid €7 for a bed in a common room and hot shower. There was a kitchen where I cooked some beans with tomato 😀
      I met people from Germany, South Korea, Sweden and Mexico! Already feeling a nice vibe 💫
      ——-

      Después de estar en Madrid unos días, decidí que era hora de caminar. Tomé un tren desde Madrid a Oviedo y llegué allí al mediodía. Mi idea era quedarme y explorar la ciudad por una noche, pero una vez que llegué a la Catedral para obtener mi credencial de peregrinación, todo cambió✨

      Sentí la necesidad de estar en la naturaleza, caminar y comenzar mi viaje hacia Santiago.

      Caminé 5 km para llegar al Albergue Municipal en la ciudad de Escamplero. Pagué 7 € por una cama en una sala común y una ducha caliente. Había una cocina donde cociné unos frijoles con tomate 😀

      ¡Conoí a gente de Alemania, Corea del Sur, Suecia y México! Ya estoy sintiendo buenas vibras💫
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    • Day 2

      Road to Oviedo 🚙💨🐄

      April 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      Día de teletrabajo en casa mientras Violeta planifica su próximo viaje. Pasamos la mañana en casa y el cielo augura un tiempo fantástico estos días 🌞

      Pasamos por mercadona para llenar el frigorífico y almorzamos en casa 🍝

      Al acabar ponemos rumbo a Oviedo para aprovechar la tarde allí. Cuando llegamos, paseamos por las calles del centro, incluyendo la plaza de la Catedral, hasta llegar a la plaza del Ayuntamiento🐦
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    • Day 14

      Not in Kansas anymore

      September 18, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Today's KMs - 0 kms (official Camino kms)
      Total KMs - 256.7 KMs
      Total blisters - 7 + same

      Oviedo is big! Definately not what we've been used to over the past week. It has a McDonald's and Starbucks - the first set of junk food we've seen. So much good food, coffee and shopping here with lots of brands we can't get back home (not in Adelaide anyway). Not tempted though considering I'll have to carry any extra weight in my pack for another 350+ kms. The Camino markers here are even more up market - gold shells 😊

      In the end it seems like we made the right decision to take a rest day. I've been icing and elevating my "cankles" with Simon's ice cold beer cans. Beer is so cheap here, from 40 - 65 cents a can, with so much variety. A can of coke costs more than a can of beer! Wasted on me but Simon is making full use of the opportunity.

      Can't wait to start the challenging Camino Primitivo tomorrow. It should be good heading into the mountains. It will be more remote with fewer albergues and limited/ no wifi. I'm mentally ready for the long up and down hills. I just hope my feet will hold up!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Oviedo, Uvieo

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