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    • PodróżnikBrenda’s Camino
      Dzień 36

      Palas de Rei to Ardue

      5 czerwca 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      Today was hard. Just shy of 30km on rolling terrain most of the day. The sun was also out most of the day as well, so it was hot. I have developed something I have never experienced before, but you see it on the Camino all the time, "hiker's rash". I actually had it on my ankle at the beginning of the Camino, and it just went away, but now I have developed it on the back of my left arm. It doesn't hurt, just a bit red and itchy. Nothing a bit cortisone cream won't cure. Add that to the pharmacy I carry with me everyday.

      The terrain today was quite varied. The Camino begins to leave the oak and chestnut trees and now we are entering eucalyptus trees quite a bit. They smell wonderful. But the terrain also was on some roads, some busier than others, through villages and hamlets which are becoming increasingly more prosperous looking.

      The day was a bit more challenging because a school group of Irish girls are also hiking this last 100 km and seem to be on the same schedule as me, and though they are lovely and pleasant, I could do without the blaring music and their renditions of ABBA. So I found myself a few times, just stopping and waiting for a bit till they were further ahead.

      However, having said that, I am not a perfect pilgrim either. I had a what's app conversation with Claire for a bit, and then a video conversation with Christian in the last part of my day. They were both a welcome reprieve from a long day that was getting harder with every kilometre. It is not often that it is already nearly 6 pm before I am showered and getting organized. After two long days back to back, I am looking forward to a short 18 km day tomorrow.

      I visited the church of Iglesia de Santa Maria in San Xulian do Camino where legend says that the statue of Mary that was suppose to reside in the church kept being found by the fountain. In the 14th century, the villagers repeatedly put her back in the church, but she kept escaping, so they sculpted her into the wall to keep her firmly in the church!

      The Camino passes through a larger city of Melide, and though I was tempted by the "polpo" (octopus) which is a staple in this region of Galicia, I walked on through and thought that after a shower and some fresh clothes, and a glass of wine, I might enjoy it a bit more. It is a bit like lobster...I think they just boil it and serve it with some salt, and perhaps a sauce or spice. I have had it once already a couple of towns ago, and it is good. You just have to get over the fact that it looks like octopus, not the "calamari" we get which is considerably more appetizing and breaded!       Czytaj więcej

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    • PodróżnikCamino Sanabrés
      Dzień 16

      Day 52 - A Day in Ourense-Magosto Fiesta

      11 listopada 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Weather: 9 - 21 and sunny 🌞
      Feels like I have had a short winter and am back in Spring. 🙏🙏🙏

      The unfolding of an interesting day.
      At breakfast I started having a conversation with my roommate, Rebecca - although I didn’t ask her name till much later. Rebecca was having a day and night In Ourense before going to a yoga weekend in a nearby town. We chatted for a long time and the outcome was that we had a lovely day together.
      The Cathedral
      We started to head for the Tourist Information Centre but got sidetracked by the cathedral which was open and getting ready for a service associated with today’s Chestnut Fiesta. We looked and sat for quite a while - it was beautiful with good energy - and then continued on - but after getting all the info at the Tourist Centre we somehow ended up back at the cathedral where the service was about to begin.
      Of course now we stayed for the religious celebrations. The cathedral was full with lots of VIP types in the front rows. The ceremonies began with a procession of Galician bagpipers followed by men in white carrying a sacred statue. There was beautiful singing - choir and solo. It was an uplifting and interesting experience and in some ways reminded me of India where they also parade statues of great beings and sing and chant.
      We left when the speeches started because I couldn’t understand any of what they said.
      The service left us with a calm and uplifted feeling ready for the next event.

      Next the thermal pools
      By that time Rebecca had decided she wanted to stay in Ourense a bit longer than planned and wanted to revisit the thermal pools. She had been yesterday. So we hopped in her car and off we went. I felt very grateful because otherwise it would mean me deciphering the public transport or doing the 60 minute walk.
      We went to the ‘private’ pool - Outariz Thermal Station - which has a Japanese theme: lots of pools of different temperatures, pools with spa jets, cold pools to alternate with the hot, gentle music playing and notices encouraging silence and reflection. It took a while for me to relax into the experience but when I did it was blissful. I only got out when the body said that was enough for one day. If I lived in Ourense the ‘terma’ would be a regular event. For €5.70 you get a locker and two hours of bliss. Sorry no photos allowed. But I did take one of the public pool.
      https://www.turismodeourense.gal/en/recurso/est…

      The food expo came next
      This was a bit out of town - where we hoped to get something to eat. A bit of a disappointment in that the three course meals were between €30 and €60 but with pretty incredible menus. We had a look around and snacked on the free food. From what she shared, Rebecca seemed to be a bit of a foodie. She knew what foods were specialities in which areas and towns. Somehow I felt guilty taking the free food when I was never going to buy anything. But it was interesting to see the focus on good food in Galicia - and it shows in the meals I have had so far.
      Rebecca had a phone meeting so I had time to do a bit of journaling before we headed back to town.

      The Magosta Fiesta
      At 6 pm there was a concert and free roasted chestnuts in the Plaza Major. We got there a little before 6 and with Rebecca’s bold youth we quietly jumped the already huge queue to get our cone of chestnuts. She had to head off quickly and I had come all the way from Australia so I didn’t feel too bad about our bold move. The Spanish wait very patiently and when I left around 6.45 there was a queue around the corner and up the street.
      There was all sorts of local music and people dressed up as well-known traditional characters- with giant heads. It was great fun.
      The chestnuts were a bit of a disappointment - not so fresh - not as good as the ones the Korean girl roasted a few night ago. Nevertheless I had participated in the Magosta Fiestal and was very happy that I had participated in the free chestnut experience and heard some of the local music.
      However … on the way back to the hostel I chomped a chestnut on my sensitive tooth. It was very painful and I became grumpy and impatient with every one and everything. I remembered a saying of one of my teachers - trying to get pleasure from the world brings pounds of pain. Even though I had a lovely day I was reminded that all joy and happiness resides within.

      Buen Camino

      PS: After a good sleep, meditation and reflection, the next morning looked bright and cheerful again.

      Hostel Grelo
      Both the hospitalaros here speak English which is such a bonus for us Spanish deficient pilgrims. 😄
      The building is just on the edge of the old town and has three dorms. I think there are 6 of us here and spread out through the dorms so we are not in top of each other. There is a kitchen and lounge area. For €15 you get sheets, blankets (although I still used my sleeping bag/blanket as their blankets are a bit thin) and a towel and breakfast included. In Spain that is always toast or light pastry and coffee/ teas etc. because most people have eaten a big meal at 8.30 pm or later.       Czytaj więcej

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    • PodróżnikWeitwandern / Pilgern Portugal
      Dzień 36

      Heimreise

      22 maja, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Heute morgen regnet es in Strömen in Irun, also fahre ich nach Hause. Schnell nach Colin zum Regionalzug f.2 Stationen, dann bin ich in Hendaye/Frankreich. Von dort geht es mit dem Hochgeschwindigkeitszug Bach Paris Montparnasse, dort zuerst in die Metro4 zum Bahnhof Paris Erst und von dort geht es mit dem Hochgeschwindigkeitszug nach München. Leider haben wir etwas Verspätung, da der Zug in Paris schon später abfuhr.
      Ob ich jetzt den Anschluss nach Salzburg erwische ist fraglich. Also wird gelaufen und natürlch liegt Gleis 9 ganz hinten, da ja am Bahnhof auch umgebaut wird. Aber es ging sich aus und Zug fuhr mit mir ab. Also würde ich die letzte S Bahn in Salzburg auch noch erwischen.
      Leider nein, denn in Assling D. hatten wir 45min Aufenthalt wegen Gleisschaden?
      Nach 18 Stunden kam ich dann in Salzburg an und nahm mir ein Taxi nach Hause .
      Und das Schlimme war, dass es während der ganzen Fahrt durch Frankreich und D ständig geregnet hat. Natürlich regnete es auch in Salzburg.       Czytaj więcej

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    • Spanien Portugal 2023
      2
      Dzień 10

      Im Paradies gelandet ❤️

      5 maja 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      So langsam brauchen wir Meer 🤗 und tasten uns ganz langsam durchs Hinterland Richtung Vigo. Wie immer darf ich den Campingplatz aussuchen und bring mein Schatz mal wieder an seine Grenzen 😜
      Der Weg zum Campingplatz ist so spektakulär über enge Straßen....21 % Steigung....kleine Dörfchen, dass ich mit feuchten Händen für eine Stunde mal die Klappe gehalten habe.....und das will was heißen 😜
      Aber souverän gemeistert....wie immer....landen wir im Paradies ....❤️
      Auf dem wunderschönen kleinen Campingplatz "Canon do sil "
      mitten in den Bergen der "Ribeira Sacra" , dem bekannten Weinbaugebiet in Galizien !
      Und man glaubt es fast nicht....wir haben den Campingplatz für uns alleine 🤣😜

      ❤️Laut Mythologie verliebte sich Gott Jupiter in Galicia und überquerte den Mino Fluss um sie zu erobern. Von Eifersucht ergriffen, fügte seine Ehefrau Juno, Galicien eine tiefe Wunde zu. So entstand die atemberaubende Schlucht "Canon del Sil" ❤️
      ......die "Ribeira Sacra "
      Das Land der Götter 🥰       Czytaj więcej

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    • Laurie ReynoldsVía Serrana and El Invierno
      2
      Dzień 19

      A longer route to A Rua

      29 kwietnia, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      The day from O Barco had to be either 13 km or 40 km. I was not interested in the 40 option. I had learned on the forum that there was a way to visit an old abandoned estate (Pazo) on the other side of the river, which would also add a little bit of distance. I did some more searching and found that there were several trails on that side of the river that would take me up high, to some waterfalls, and then to a couple of little towns on my way back down to the river. I pieced together some Wikiloc tracks and got a good alternative – 24 km and about 600 m elevation gain.

      It was a combination of two local trails, both very well-maintained and marked. I saw several people out walking, all single women from the nearby villages, and also met a man tending his little patch of grape vines. The waterfalls were quite nice, and the walk along the ridge at the top gave such a different view than what we normally see walking down by the river. I came into town over an ancient pedestrian bridge, and saw that there was a Roman millario right next to it! I am very happy to have done this route, and I arrived in A Rua just in time to have a menú del día with Clare.

      Despite the weather forecast, it was a glorious day, but rain is back in the forecast tomorrow. It looks like the morning will be dry, so I will start out good and early!       Czytaj więcej

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    • Camino invierno
      1121
      Dzień 3

      Puerte de Domingo nach A Rúa (28 km)

      16 kwietnia, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

      Heute ging es für uns nach A Rúa, ein wunderschöner Weg am Fluss entlang, mit vereinzelten kleineren Anstiegen in das umliegende Bergland. Heute zeigte sich die Gastfreundschaft der Menschen in der Nähe des Camino. Wir durften mehrfach Hilfe und Unterstützung aus heiterem Himmel erfahren. So bot uns ein Ehepaar, dass uns auf seinem Weg zum Öffnen ihres Hühnerstalls begegnete, während Friedrich mit schmerzenden Füßen eine Pause eingelegt hatte, an, die Füße bei ihnen daheim unter Wasser abzukühlen. Ein paar Häppchen mit Chorizo und Schinken sowie für jeden zwei Dosen Limonade gab es ebenso ungefragt dazu.
      Diese Einstellung der unbedingten Gastfreundschaft und Offenheit wollen wir auf auf jeden Fall versuchen, mit nach Deutschland zu nehmen. Am Abend kehrten wir in einer kleinen Herberge in A Rúa ein. Auch hier würden wir wieder sehr gut umsorgt. Der Obolus für Herberge, Abendessen und Frühstück war hier für die Reisenden als Spende frei zu wählen. Auch ein spannendes Konzept, dass erfreulicherweise offenbar gut funktioniert.
      Morgen geht es auf die nächste Etappe, mal sehen wie lang diese sein wird.       Czytaj więcej

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    • Laurie ReynoldsVía Serrana and El Invierno
      31
      Dzień 18

      To O Barco de Valdeorras

      28 kwietnia, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Nice walk, nothing spectacular, but pretty. It was our first encounter with the Sil River, which merges with the Minho eventually. It is very full these days because of all the rain.

      The camino goes through some abandoned villages, and one real town. There are lots of small family on vineyards. I talked to a couple out and their parcel and they say that they and most of the small owners in this area just grow enough grapes to make their own wine for the year. There are lots of huge industrial vineyards as well, but the Camino didn’t pass by any of them today. Since it was a day on the short side, I left late and didn’t really get into my normal walking mode. Kind of lollygagging and realizing I was feeling tired.

      Three of us had a late lunch and when I got back to the room at about five, I lay down and woke up after midnight. That was probably the longest night uninterrupted stretch of sleep I’ve had since I’ve been here! Maybe it had something to do with the allergy pills I’ve started taking (a regular occurrence when I walk in Spain in the spring), but whatever it is, it’s a strange sensation to wake up at midnight, feeling refreshed, and ready to go!       Czytaj więcej

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    • Laurie ReynoldsVía Serrana and El Invierno
      311
      Dzień 17

      Snow and 800 cyclists

      27 kwietnia, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      Today I walked from Montes de Valdueza to Las Médulas and then another 8 or 9 km to Puente de Domingo Florez. Wikiloc tells me it was 35 KM and about 900 m elevation gain.

      It had been raining all night, but Pilar had told me that the entire distance was on a “pista forestal” (Forest track). That meant no jagged rocks, no extremely steep elevation, all dirt, and no rivers to ford. As I went from one side of a mountain to another, the weather kept changing. At one high point, it was snowing. About halfway there, I ran into three guys setting up a refreshment stand. They told me I was about to encounter 800 cyclists, all of them completing a 101 km circuit from Ponferrada. There were about 200 walkers, but I was unlikely to see them given that they would be much further behind.

      When I started down from that point, it turned into a pea soup fog, with an occasional few minutes of rain. But when I got to Las Medulas, it wasn’t raining, and the view was as spectacular as ever.

      I was going to spend the night there, in a little rural hotel, where I have been several times. But when I got there, the grounds were covered with campers and tents and caravans. I decided that even if there were rooms available, it was going to be a late night party. I decided to continue on nine more kilometers. That will make tomorrow a very short day so that’s nice.       Czytaj więcej

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    • Tour d'Europe
      Dzień 79

      Las Medulas

      30 czerwca 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Réveil un peu difficile ce matin 😅, mais quand même motivés pour la rando du jour.

      Direction Las Medulas, une ancienne exploitation d'or à 🥇 à ciel ouvert au temps de l'empire romain.

      Super rando de plus de 10km avec des vues spectaculaires sur les faces ocres qui forment le paysage.

      Pas de grosses difficultés au départ, le temps était ensoleillé, mais il y avait du vent donc c'était parfait pour marcher. On est passé par des endroits assez sinueux par congre 😬. Heureusement qu'il y a de la végétation, parce que des fois, on ne savait pas trop ce qui retenait le chemin 🥲.

      Après un petit pique-nique sur une aire de loisirs, avec vue sur la vallée, on retourne doucement jusqu'au van pour reprendre la route.

      On passe la nuit dans notre premier parking de station essence 😅. Un peu glauque sur le papier, mais au final, c'était 5€ avec l'électricité, la douche était à 3€. C'était super propre et on avait serviette et savons.
      Autant dire, qu'après la rando la douche était plus que bienvenue.
      Pour couronner le tout, on avait un super point de vue que la vallée ⛰️🏔 donc 👌.
      Rémi a eu la visite de quelques enfants pendant son sport, qui l'ont pris en photo tel un animal de foire, il était ravi 🤣.

      On est quand même jusqu'en début d'après-midi, le lendemain pour profiter des commodités avant de reprendre la route 🚌.       Czytaj więcej

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    • VanprojektRüdigerEuropareise
      Dzień 54

      Auf den Spuren der Römer

      7 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      In der Früh spazierten wir noch mal zum Aussichtspunkt der Las Medulãs. Eindrucksvoll, wie die Morgensonne das rötliche Gestein leuchten ließ. Und alles wirkte so friedlich in diesen Moment.

      Danach suchten wir uns einen Parkplatz in Las Medulãs und packten unseren Rucksack für die Wanderung.🎒
      Beim Infozentrum holten wir uns noch eine Karte und los ging die 11 Kilometer Wanderung. 🚶🚶‍♀️

      Auch hier ist so langsam der Herbst angekommen und die Blätter verfärben sich in den schönsten Farben. 🍂
      Für das sind wir gerade unfassbar dankbar, den Herbst so intensiv wahrzunehmen.🙏 Zu Hause im Arbeitsalltag bekamen wir das nie so intensiv mit .. aber hier sehen wir Tag für Tag, wie sich die Blätter immer mehr verfärben und sich zu einen farbenfrohen Blättermeer entwickeln. Wir lieben den goldenen Herbst. 🍁🥰

      Weder Wind noch Wetter haben diese großartige Landschaft der Las Médulas geschaffen, sondern römische Ingenieurskunst. Hier befand sich einmal die größte römische Goldmine auf der Iberischen Halbinsel. Der Naturpark zählt heute zum UNESCO-Welterbe. 💡

      Am Wanderweg sind immer wieder Tafeln mit Beschreibungen wie die Römer die Goldmine betrieben haben, sehr interessant. 👍🏼
      Und die Vorstellung was vor 2000 Jahren hier Römer erschaffen haben ist beeindruckend.

      Die Wanderung war sehr abwechslungsreich, es ging durch den Wald, vorbei an uralten, wunderschönen knorrigen Kastanienbäumen, die sicher einiges erzählen könnten, so alt wie die schon sind. 😅
      Es gab einige Höhlen zu bestaunen. Und wir kamen ganz schön ins Schwitzen, beim Fels entlang war es teilweise sehr heiß. 🔥🌡️
      Immer wieder hatte man eine tolle Aussicht auf die Goldmine, die rötlich erstrahlte.

      Wieder beim Bus angekommen, waren wir ganz schön fertig aber es hat sich ausgezahlt. 🙂       Czytaj więcej

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    Możesz znać też następujące nazwy tego miejsca:

    Provincia de Ourense, Ourense, Orense, Província d'Ourense, オレンセ（オウレンセ）

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