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Real Colegiata de Santa María de Roncesvalles

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    • Camino de Santiago
      Day 4–5

      Roncesvalles Monastery & Pilgrims Hostel

      April 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      As history tells it, the doors to Roncesvalles Monastery were open for Christians and pagans, rich and poor, with no distinctions. Pilgrims could have a bath and have their shoes repaired. Sick people received the best attention and were treated with best medicine and they could rest in clean and soft beds. Fast forward to now, and it seems not much has changed—except perhaps the addition of indoor plumbing and electricity. Yesterday, after battling the elements through the Pyrenees mountains, we arrived at this ancient refuge, eager to experience firsthand the storied hospitality of this legendary stop on the Camino de Santiago.

      The promise of a hot shower, a soft bed, and a warm meal felt like a luxury—and in many ways, it was. The Roncesvalles Monastery, now bustling with volunteers rather than monks, offers around 420 beds and for $32 a person, we had access to sinks to hand wash our clothes, a shower, a warm dinner, a soft bed & a simple breakfast.

      After a much-needed long, hot shower, we partook in the pilgrim's mass, then enjoyed a communal dinner with new friends from Ireland, Germany, Italy & Washington DC.

      Sleeping in a dormitory style bed at the monastery is an experience akin to camping indoors with a chorus of nasal flutes. So. Much. Snoring. It seems that traversing over the Pyrenees in miserable weather conditions does wonders for the sinuses. 🤣But who's to complain? We were all in the same boat—or should I say, bed?

      The "lights out" policy at 10 PM was strictly enforced, as was the 6 AM wake-up call, which was not just a gentle nudge but a full sensory experience. Lights flickered on, and the sound of monks singing wafted through the halls, a reminder that it was time to rise, shine, and strap on those hiking boots for another day of adventure. Although it wasn’t the most restful night that either of us had, we are grateful for the experience 🙏🏼      Read more

    • Brian SmithCamino Frances
      11
      Day 4

      Day 1 -St Jean to Roncevalles

      September 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

      We got started at 7am , as the first part of the walk was thru the city of St Jean. The first stop for the day would be Orisson which is about 5 miles. While you are going up the mountain at the end of the first 3 miles I said to myself, this isn’t so bad , I can do this….. Well the next 2 miles is what people must be talking about:…Straight up for the next 2 miles , asphalt for the most part with a little of gravel path toward the end. It was a bit tough but in a good way. It’s your first day so the adrenaline certainly helps! At the 5 mile mark is a great hostel that has a restaurant that serves food and drink to all…Very timely! Many stay there for their day 1 end point but we were headed to Roncevalles a mere 10 more miles. At Orisson we were at 2700 feet so half the elevation was complete. With 10 miles for the second half, so must be less strenuous …. Wrong:) It’s all about when the elevation is on those next 10! All kidding aside the walk was challenging but not a killer. You will see many overlook pics primarily because I kept saying we must be at the top take a picture…well we weren’t at the top…. It just kept going! Then we did finally hit the top and started coming down. That’s when I confirmed that I really like going up better!
      Many gorgeous views along the way. The Pyrenees have a great mix of field and forest. Forest is mostly beech trees that are very cool to look at. Many goats, sheep , cattle and horses grazing the fields on the mountain. The horses had cow bells on their necks… first time I have seen a horse bell .
      About 5 or 6 miles into this section was another timely placed food truck that sure came in handy.
      We arrived at our end point in about 7.5 hours. Little over 16 miles traveled and according to my Fitbit 41,000 steps. Our hotel is right next to the towns church and had just started their daily pilgrim mass. Beautiful church packed with pilgrims!
      Tomorrow will be another 17 mile day but we came out of day 1 pretty good with no major pains just some minor aches. All in all great day. Lots of great thoughts and conversations along the way. Met folks from UK, Australia, France , Spain and South Korea . Only 1 from the US. She lives in Oregon.      Read more

    • TravelerOne More Camino in Spain 2023
      2
      222
      Day 17

      Pyrenees conquered, downhill from now!

      April 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

      We have made it to Roncesvalles - even though we didn’t go the hard way over the top, we had a day with a lot of climbing and feel proud of ourselves. It was cold, but not freezing - I actually took off a layer before the final climb - and there was snow around, on the top of the mountains and around our path but nothing that impeded the walking…in fact for me it is rather magic to be amongst snow! It rained a little, but never pouring, just drops in the air, and sometimes it was snow showers - droplets of flakes!

      We are now in the very lovely hotel here that we remember from last time 10 years ago…it looks like a wing of the monastery and similar to the albergue, except with all the refinements of a hotel! It is warm and I have no intention of stepping outside till we leave tomorrow morning! We were expected, our bags were waiting, we are booked in for dinner and all is very good.

      Set off at about 9, or exactly as we heard the church bells bong the hour. We wore ponchos all day and I am very happy with my new voluminous blue one - it fits well over the backpack and didn’t let any drips in! Also very happy with my new sticks…We walked only about 14 kms, but it was strenuous and even Amr feels quite worn out! I had to plod on the LONG uphill but once finished I was very happy going downhill to Roncesvalles, and now don’t feel at all worn out, just happy that we are here!! It was such a different walk from 10 years ago. Then the trees were in full leaf and it was just like walking through a forest. Today the trees were bare enough that we were aware of the enormous rocks and mountains surrounding us, and the valleys…such a different scene, and magnificent scenery.

      Now the bar where we are having a wine (it was empty when we came) has filled with walkers all swapping stories of today…this is such fun. Some people walked all the way over the top, some walked our route, some were warned it was too snowy and difficult over the top and got a taxi!! Everyone is happy…mainly Americans, Aussies and Canadians right now…but many more…all good.

      Dinner was good…though it took ages as they were also serving a room full of pilgrims from the albergue and I think we got forgotten…but food yummy…Amr had the bean soup and I had a mixed salad to start (mixed means lettuce, tomato, tuna, egg, asparagus ) and Amr had grilled bass for main and I had a deer stew…so delicious…comfort food! Off to sleep now…      Read more

    • Camino
      1
      Day 7

      Roncesvalles (16.8km / 24.3km)

      April 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      We started off with stunning conditions. The sunrise over the Pyrenees was breathtaking. We had a communal breakfast - very simple but nice to be seated with everyone. Coffee was served in a soup bowl! Had lovely Face Time calls with Theresa and Shannon and then - We rounded a corner and the wind hit us and it pretty much stayed with us the whole day. Gusts of gale force winds , piercingly cold. A head wind while climbing, climbing, climbing. The scenery did a good job at distracting the difficult conditions. A good break at a van who had parked out of the wind, and served delicious and much needed coffee. We continued to climb. We crossed over a cow grid and entered Spain just like that. More climbing and a bit of a relief while walking through a muddy forest. We found a good spot to eat our baguettes which we ordered at last nights accommodation. We eventually caught sight of the Albergue (Historical Pilgrim Hospital) which was our destination, far down below. So now for the climb down, down, down. The Pilgrim Hostel is huge and sleeps hundreds. We are in a bunk room of 4. A much needed beer or two, and reminiscing on the difficult day with other pilgrims before another communal dinner followed by Mass. An unexpected surprise after mass. The priest gave a Pilgrim Blessing and then invited us to stay for a tour of the church. He enthusiastically told us about the history of the church in 3 languages and then took us down to the crypt where he orchestrated an impromptu “Amazing Grace”. Time for these weary legs to head off to bed!Read more

    • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2023
      1
      Day 6

      End Day 1/Beginning Day 2

      May 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

      Yesterday’s walk ended with a wait for the shuttle bus back to Saint Jean. I was very cold as it was a bit windy and cold, plus I had sweated and then stopped moving. I was huddled up with my rain poncho on for warmth when another pilgrim joined me to wait. I commented on how cold it was, and she laughed at me. Turns out that Caroline is from Quebec, so she no doubt thought it was balmy! We had another good laugh on the shuttle; the drivers whip up and down the one-lane road, which is next to a sheer drop for much of the route we were on. Caroline muttered, “Please don’t kill me!” I said, “Man, wouldn’t it be something to die after all of that?!” And then we laughed and laughed. Maybe you had to be there! This morning’s commute was even scarier, with a passing situation that had me pretty worried! I guess I’m pretty thoroughly a flat-lander at this point.

      Obviously we didn’t die, and I made it to my gite (hostel), which was really nice. The volunteer host was Oili, a very kind Finnish yoga teacher. I was just exhausted after 3 hours sleep the night before and then the long climb, so I was asleep by 7:00. I did awaken a few times, but I’m pretty sure I got in 10 hours before 6:00 this morning. I feel so much better!

      I shared a dormitory with six other people. Only one of them snored, and he wasn’t too close to me, so it wasn’t too bad. Very cozy. Oili served breakfast and coffee and then led a “Pilgrim Ceremony.” (It was most people’s first day.) This was a mindfulness exercise mixed with a benediction of sorts and ended with a recording of John Denver singing “Sweet, Sweet Surrender.” It was nice. The best part of the morning was cake for breakfast! One of the offerings was a cake I saw in the bakeries, too. Not sure if it was a Basque thing or the tarte de Santiago, but it was delicious.

      1. The view of Saint Jean from the gite’s patio.
      2. My little bunk for the night. I was happy to get to choose a lower bunk.
      3. A house in Saint Jean. No, I wasn’t drunk - the street really is that steep! I appreciated the commitment to flowers.
      4. Even the weeds are pretty in this part of France! I also saw this flower in the mountains today.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino de Santiago
      12
      Day 4

      Initiation in rain

      August 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      One question I had coming into the Camino was how it would feel to walk in the rain. I found out today! Today was my second day going up the Pyrenees, and it was rainy, windy, and cold. A friend I met at the hostel last night and I exchanged numbers in the morning to make sure we both made it to the next town safely. There were a few different spots on the trail where you had to turn one way and not another or you’d be in trouble. As the hostel owner put it, “Right is life, left is death.” Since going off the trail in the Pyrenees in bad weather is basically the setup for the movie, The Way, I was a bit nervous. Thankfully my way-finding skills are good and I was able to either follow other pilgrims or look out for the intermittent yellow arrows along the trail.

      Todays distance was 10.5 miles and I definitely felt it in my feet by the time I got to town. I went through all 4 pairs of my socks trying to keep my feet dry in the rain. I changed my socks a second time and put Vaseline on my feet to keep my wet feet from getting blisters. My toes were pruny by the time I got to my room, but thankfully no blisters!

      Now I’m settling into my room to rest my feet and wait for a pilgrim dinner later tonight and a service at the church that they do every night as a pilgrim’s blessing. Hoping for dry weather tomorrow!      Read more

    • TravelerLiving my Camino dream
      2
      4
      Day 5

      Walking in the Clouds

      August 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      Today was huge!! I am so grateful and lucky to be here but it was hard, hot and windy! I don't think I have ever seen any scenery as beautiful. Got to the monastery and have been given a top bunk- might still be up here in 5 weeks!!Read more

    • Julie RosenthalCamino Frances 2023
      11111

      Day 2 - Orrison to Roncesvalles - 18km

      August 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      18km today - done and done!

      I started out around 7:30am after breakfast. I had a reservation in Roncesvalles so I didn’t need to worry about my pace, I just had to arrive by 7pm or I lose my bed and dinner.

      It was a steady climb up again, but was blessed with seeing the sun rise over the mountains. While walking, it was just as important to occasionally look behind as the scenery was breathtaking every step of the way.

      Physically today was a challenge. It was 13km with a 700m gain plus a 4.5 km decent. On the climb, I took a break about every 4km to make sure I would last. I took my boots off at that point as well. The muscles were holding out pretty well, for awhile. I think about the 11km mark I was really starting to feel my glutes and hamstrings. About 1km into my 4.5 km decent they were screaming! They were so tired. I would stop every so often and stretch them. About 3 km from the end, I could feel some hot spots on my feet forming for blisters, different places than usual because of going downhill, so I sat down and put tape on them right away. I was tempted to wait as it was only 3km but I knew better not to wait if I wanted to keep going the next day.

      I arrived in Roncesvalles by 4pm. It was good I had a reservation as by 3:30pm they were all full. They have a system where they give you a coloured card when you arrive and then call out the colour to check you in. I wasn’t to my bed until 5pm. I then showered, stretched, rolled my muscles and relaxed. Then it was time for the pilgrims dinner. Dinner was pasta, pork and potatoes. They had the option of fish, but I remember from last time that they give you the whole fish, head and all, so didn’t want to deal with that again.

      I wasn’t planning to go to the mass at the church but just as I was leaving dinner, the bells were ringing and the church was right there, so I took it as a sign. I went in and all the standing was killing me (as I am sure it was with the other pilgrims). The mass is all in Spanish, except for a pilgrims blessing at the end where they say a couple sentences in english and other languages. I only caught a few words of it and all I remember is the word “journey.”

      After mass, it was back to the room. This new hostel is awesome. When Jörg and I were hospitaleros in 2014, we drove here and asked to look around as we stayed in the old monastery last time. Because I made a reservation early, I got a bed on the 3rd floor, which was all single beds, it was absolute luxury (in pilgrim terms) The wifi was very strong so I could upload the blogs I had already written but I had no energy left to compile the videos.

      Ok it’s 10pm and the lights are out, so time for bed.

      TTYL      Read more

    • Barb and AlanSpain 2023
      4
      Day 5

      Over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles

      September 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

      After watching Candi start walking from Saint Jean, we started from the Croix Thibault and walked up and over the Pyrenees. ⛰️🙂 Alan’s foot did ok (yay) so tomorrow he will see if he can do the whole 13 miles to Zubiri. 🤞🏻🤞🏻

      It wasn’t a blue sky day, but we had much better views than the thick fog we had in 2018. We kept commenting on the views we had today that were non-existent back then. We could actually see the beautiful, strong, stocky horses 🐴 (and a lot of 🐑 ) on the hillsides, instead of just hearing the bells around their necks.

      It was extremely windy, but the sound of it blowing through the trees was soothing - plus it felt so nice and cool on my hot face (because it takes hardly anything to turn me into a sweat ball).🥵 The descent down to Roncesvalles is steep and tough on the body. We were glad to finally finish, get our packs off, take showers, and put on our sandals. I know for sure we will be sore tomorrow, unless the cold beer 🍻 cures it. 😂

      Tonight, we are staying at Hotel Roncesvalles and our stomachs are full from an amazing pilgrim dinner…scallops, cod, steak, mushroom risotto, apple pie and a brownie with ice cream. YUM! It will be hard to top. 😋😋

      So far we have met some really nice people already at the beginning of this journey, but a few really stand out.

      Pierre - He’s from Australia and is doing this walk because his wife, who passed away two years ago, told him to take a little time once she died to mourn, but then she wanted him to spend some time doing something for himself. 🥹 So, he told himself he would do something his younger self would have done, and the Camino is it. We hope to run into him more in these next few days and maybe help him celebrate his birthday in Pamplona.

      Gunnar: He’s from Belgium. He’s working on a Camino video and asked us if he could ask us some questions. In talking with him more today he shared his wife passed away in 2019 from a brain aneurysm. He decided right then to not wait until retirement to do things in life.

      Australian Couple:

      We met a really sweet couple who are walking the Camino with there 9 month old son. 😳 The mom was carrying him in front for three hours while we was sleeping and then, once he woke up, his dad carried him in child carrier backpack. The couple said the little guy enjoyed all the people talking to him. It kept him busy and happy. Maybe he will be one of the youngest Camino pilgrims to make it to Santiago. 🙂👶

      Fun fact learned today: When stung by stinging nettles, grab some dandelion leaves, smoosh the leaves up and rub them on your skin. It takes the sting away! Thank you to the Dutch woman for that. :)

      Tomorrow, our plan is to walk 13 miles to Zubiri - slowly, with lots of breaks. 🙂      Read more

    • TravelerWeltreise
      Day 98

      Jakobsweg Tag 2

      March 10, 2020 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

      Heute Morgen tat mir immer noch einiges weh, aber es war halbwegs erträglich...also weiter!
      Nach dem Frühstück wurden wir gefragt ob wir an einer Dokumentation über den Camino teilnehmen wollen.
      Diese wäre für Amazon Prime und wir würden zusätzlich noch einen Restaurant Besuch in Santiago de Compostella bekommen.
      Na klar wollten wir!!! 😉
      Dafür mussten wir erzählen wer wir sind, woher, wohin wir wollen und warum wir den Camino laufen.

      Danach machten wir uns auf den Weg zur nächsten Etappe, auf nach Zubiri!
      20 Km standen also heute auf dem Programm.

      Wir liefen in einer kleinen 5er Gruppe, Mal zusammen Mal zu zweit und manchmal jeder für sich.

      Das Wetter war viel besser als gestern und so wechselten wir unterwegs unsere Kleidung und liefen in Short und Shirt weiter.

      Unterwegs legten wir gemeinsam zwei kleine Pausen ein, tranken Kaffee und aßen Baguettes.

      Die letzten 5 Km allerdings wurden für mich wieder sehr hart! Mittlerweile hatte ich mir drei fette Blasen gelaufen!
      Und so schaffte ich es mit Müh und Not so eben in unsere Unterkunft!

      ALLES ab Po abwärts tut mir sowas von weh!!!!!!!!

      In unserem Zimmer war noch ein anderer Pilger.... haltet euch fest: ein gelernter Akkupunkteur!!!!!!
      Und so wurden wir von ihm "verarztet"! 😁👍

      Aber eins kann ich euch sagen: Nocheinmal brauche ich keine Nadel in meinem Zeh!!!! 😂🙈
      Das tat vielleicht weh!!!
      Aber ich musste so lachen! Denn als er mir die Nadel in den Zeh steckte, schrie ich wie ein Mädchen (gut das sich Frauen das erlauben dürfen 😁) und dann musste ich darüber so lachen, ich bekam mich kaum noch ein! 😂
      So sehr das die anderen mit lachen mussten.      Read more

      See translation

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Real Colegiata de Santa María de Roncesvalles, Real Colegiata de Santa Maria de Roncesvalles

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