Spagna
Tríacastela

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Viaggiatori in questo posto
    • Giorno 40

      O’Cebreiro and Triacastela

      9 ottobre 2022, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Day 35 O’Cebreiero and day 36 Triacastela - Left Villafranca early for the 18 mile walk to O’Cebreiro. The last 10 kms of the route was one of the steepest, second only to the climb over the Pyrenees at the beginning of the Camino, but there were some stunning views along the Varcace valley that could not be captured by camera - although I tried. The valley is steep and narrow and heavily wooded with pine and chestnut so quite shady. Some of it reminded me of walks in Uttrakhand. Half way up the climb I stopped at a cute (and very welcome) restaurant for a fabulous meal and made the mistake of having a glass beer - bad choice because I still had a significant climb! Ran into the Aussies when I was at the tail end of the climb. Passed a pleasant half hour chatting while herds of cows passed right behind us. And then on to destination for the night.
      O’Cebreiero is a very cute town that apparently used to be a dairy village and is now a tourist hotspot. Ran into my friend from Vermont - Ginny, and had dinner with her. Somewhere along the way she had taken a bus to catch up. I also ran into Josh who has moved to Burgos from Florida. His wife had done the Camino several years ago and loved it so much that she decided to move here. She teaches English at a local primary school.
      Today, day 36, was similar with hilly terrain, there were some steep climbs and descents with a final steep descent into Triacastela. I walked for a while with the Aussies and Dr Steve and had dinner with a bunch of friends. It’s a small town and all the pilgrims had gathered outside this one restaurant that had seating all along the road.
      Tomorrow I’ll be in Sarria - from there it’s just 100 kms to Santiago!!
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    • Giorno 36

      Triacastela

      10 ottobre 2022, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

      Today started off like most days with a predawn wake-up trying to be really quiet while getting our stuff together in a dark room of eight sleeping people, using a red headlight to pack. And then out the door which locks behind you. There was only one small difference today, it was raining outside the locking door so no turning back once the door shut behind us.

      Walking in the rain, in the dark, by headlight is a different experience. You have a bit of tunnel vision with your rain hood drawn tight, and the light dancing off the rain. We had about an hour until we could see color in the sky and a very steep, slick climb to make. At the top of the hill a bar was open serving up great coffee and a fire burning in the fireplace. It was busy with pilgrims looking to warm up and dry out. While we joined the crowd, the sky brightened and the rain lighten up and we spent the next few hours walking through another Hallmark card wonderland. After our big climb yesterday, most of today was downhill and an easy stroll with beauty everywhere. I thought yesterday was amazing but today topped it!

      We also saw more locals today. In the Meseta region you would walk through a village and not see a single person. Since being in Galicia we are seeing more people and much more activity. In one village, we had an older lady brave the rain to share pancakes, that she sprinkled with sugar, with pilgrims as they walked past her house. It was a very touching moment and just made the day more special.

      About 4 kilometers from the village we are staying in, we stopped for lentil soup and coffee and waited for a downpour of rain to past. We played a few hands of cards and then made a push to the end with more mind blowing scenery. Tomorrow we are off to Sarria and will be getting close to the last 100 kilometers of our walk into Santiago.

      6 days left of walking this Camino….
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    • Giorno 37

      Triacastela

      11 ottobre 2022, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Dzisiaj mocno przemysliwany dzień, w którym musieliśmy przejść najtrudniejszą górę na Camino. Najpierw przez pół dnia podejście potem trochę płaskiego i do wieczora zejście. Dzięki poradzie Piotrusia rozmowa z górą była owocna, mówiła kiedy stanąć, gdzie wypić piwo i generalnie wyciszała emocje związane z wysiłkiem. Pogoda była piękna . Widoki cud, chodziliśmy ponad chmurami czasami, głębokie wspaniałe perspektywy, których nie można oddać zdjęciem niestety. Krajobraz w ogole bardzo się zmienił, zrobiło się bardzo zielono i czasami bardzo tajemniczo. Mijane wioski z zupełnie inni architekturą, okrągłe domki pokryte słomą. W niektórych miejscach część mieszkalną znajdowała się u góry a na dole trzymano zwierzęta. Z ciekawostek to mały kościółek w Lamos pamiętający czasy rycerzy maltańskich, bo do nich należał i drugi kościół w O Cebrerio w którym zdarzył się cud przemienienia podczas Eucharystii. Pamiątkowe naczynia mszalne znajdują się w bocznej nawie.
      Dzisiejszy dzień był chyba najładniejszym odcinkiem górskim. Oficjalnie weszliśmy do Galicji, mówią tu troszkę inaczej, ale nam to nie robi różnicy bo i tak nic nie rozumiemy. Zabudowania w Galicji wydają nam się szaro bure, mnóstwo odcieni szarości... Widzieliśmy po drodze więcej bydła niż ludzi. Z ciekawych ludzi widzieliśmy panią ze siekierą. Dużo kup krowich na ulicach, dzięki którym uprawiamy akrobacje krokowe w ich omijaniu. Kuchnia Galicyjskia okazuje się bardzo smaczna. Podają na przykład pyszna ośmiornicę i inne morskie stwory. Oprócz tego, że mają doskonałe jedzenie znają się też na czarownicach, ponoć. Po obiedzie już tylko spanko, tym bardziej, że pobliski sklep spożywczy zamknął się nam przed nosem... Na szczęście kranówka w Hiszpanii jest bezpieczna i smaczna to picia.
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    • Giorno 30

      Day 27 - It’s all downhill from here

      12 ottobre 2022, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      “An early-morning walk is a blessing for the whole day.” – Henry David Thoreau

      Day 26 - Fonfría to A Balsa - 11.6km - 2.5 hrs walking time

      Ok so the title of the day may be a bit misleading. It was almost all downhill today from Fonfría, with a couple of minor uphills, until Triacastela. After that, I had 1.6km with a fair amount of uphill but nothing major - unlike my walk tomorrow!

      I walked to Triacastela with Annette today and we left just after 8:30am. The sun is rising later and later but it was light enough out to see where we were going. And boy, was the scenery worth seeing! We were so high up, we were above the mist coming out of the valleys. The sun rise was pinks and yellows and skimmed the top of the mist before the sun burst over the mountain and blinded us on some turns.

      We stopped after about 5.5km in a wonderful cafe. I had the breakfast of champions - tea and cheesecake. What the hell - I’m walking a lot, right?!

      We continued our downward walk towards Triacastela. The Way here was through chestnut tree lined small towns and “fresh” smelling agricultural areas - with lots if cows. There is a reason albergues make you leave your shoes at the door!

      I left Annette at Triacastela and continued to the hamlet of A Balsa. I started my upward walk to the smell of mint that lines the sides of the path. The hills were do-able and I arrived very early to my Albergue El Beso. This is a hippy-dippy eco Albergue that is organic and vegan. After doing my laundry (by hand of course), I was able to hang out in a swing chair in the forest, read and enjoy the peace and quiet until other pilgrims arrived.

      Dinner was - interesting. Pumpkin soup (which I did actually enjoy), main course of rice, veggies, curry and mango hummus and sunflower and black olive hummus. Carrot cake with chestnut icing for dessert. I ate at least half of the main course and only a couple of bites of dessert. I was actually pretty full from the soup!

      Tomorrow will be a challenge, to say the least. I am unsure of the actual distance (16-19km) but the first 4.5km are uphill. Not looking forward to that, but I will get it done and the rest of the day is pretty much downhill again. I will be meeting Annette around noon for lunch, when her path from Samos intersects mine from A Balsa. We will then walk together for the last 4-5km of our day.

      Wish me luck!!
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    • O Cebreiro to Triacastela

      17 ottobre 2022, Spagna ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

      A tough mostly downhill 22km day, our first full day in Galicia.

      We had a good breakfast in the bar at Hotel Cebreiro and were on the road soon after 8am. Dawn is at 8:45 now so we used a lamp for an hour or so.

      Weather was cool and misty and once there was light to see everything was lush and green.

      The halfway mark was at Fonfría. The walk to there was some down and up on a very good path of hard packed dirt. We ate some lunch at what seems to be one of the new Galician government run albergues. Very modern and spacious.

      From there it was quite a steep drop into Triacastela. About 600m vertical over 11km distance. The path was good, no loose gravel or shifting rocks, but still it was painful by the end.

      The weather was what we’d heard is typical of this province. Misty, low cloud, breezy with occasional rain. We both needed the ponchos for an hour towards the end when the rain got more serious.

      As we were approaching Triacastela we were astonished to meet the fast walking lady from Indiana we’d dubbed “Hot Wheels” when we walked into Pamplona with her and her 3 friends, way back early in our trek. There was great hilarity all round.

      Then we stumbled into the Pensión Casa David and got cleaned up after a harder than expected day.

      Now for a cleansing radler and a laundromat session.
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    • Giorno 33

      I’m Going Down Down Down ..

      1 ottobre 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      Laguna de Castilla to Triacastela
      Day 30 - 24km

      After our very long day yesterday todays walk was perfect. We managed to scramble up the mountain in time to catch the sunrise this morning around 8.15, which was spectacular. After ambling through the quaint village of O’Cebreiro we climbed a further 3 kms before it tapered off. The views from here were breathtaking, with mainly farmland and as we walked we were serenaded by the bells around the cows necks. It was an easy descent into Triacastela and we arrived in good time to enjoy a beer and lunch. 🍻Looking forward to a couple of wines tonight and a shorter walk into Sarria tomorrow.🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️Leggi altro

    • Giorno 47

      Day 36-Triacastela

      13 ottobre 2023, Spagna ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

      Not much to write about today. There was supposed to be rain starting at 3pm which would give us plenty of time to complete today's walk. Instead there was a torrential downpour with hurricane force winds shortly after we started walking.

      We played a game today called "dodge the cow patties". At one point it was no use so now our shoes smell like cow 💩. They're not coming home with us.

      We stopped a couple times for nourishment and jogged the last mile downhill during a break from the wind. It was a 13 mile walk.

      We feel pretty good now after a hot shower and a hot meal. We have a very short day tomorrow plus a rest day.
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    • Giorno 26

      Day 22 - Triacastela to Sarria

      21 ottobre 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

      Got an early start and we were out the door before sunrise. We knew we had a big day and couldn’t wait to get going.

      We were ready for some rain, but fortunately we spared. We had a chance to see some of the amazing beauty in Galicia as we hiked up and out of Tricastela.

      We really enjoyed todays hike. It was remote, and something we had not seen before. Farms, very small villages and decay. The smell of manure was pungent, and at one point Joan was gagging and we couldn’t get away from the manure on the path and the smell in the air. Thankfully we had no black flies.

      We thought we would have cafes, restaurants or bars- there was only one co-op / hippie commune in one small crossroad offering coffee and fruit, and a small farm who had a bar, where we had cold sausages and cheese. (And Julie thought she ordered a chorizo empanada). We made due.

      We walked into Sarria after 21km / 13.4 miles. Sarria is significant as in order to receive a compostela (official certificate of completion), you must walk the final 100km /69 miles and collect two stamps per day in your credential. You present that in Santiago to receive your compostela.

      Everyone warned us that our last 5 days starting with Sarria would be very different than the previous 600km. Crowds, buses, tours. And we saw it the minute we walked into the town. Big groups of people. They haven’t walked a step yet. We told ourselves to be kind and loving to these newbies- but we were put off because we had enjoyed the solitude of the trail.

      We had a beautiful Casa/ apartment (Casa Marquesa), a wonderful Italian dinner, some uno and hit the sack.

      Home stretch baby!
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    • Giorno 38

      Into Sarria

      25 ottobre 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

      Today we did a “short and easy” walk into Sarria. Turned out to be a hard walk on our feet but I think that is more about the previous days’ (and weeks’) walks than today’s. Unfortunately I tied my shoes a little tight coming downhill and David finally got a blister on his second toe. Anyway after about 13 miles I told David “I’m sorry but I think I’m beginning to feel grumpy because my feet are really hurting!” After 14.5 miles we reached our lodging for tonight and then got some food which helped. I had a beer with lunch, very normal by Spanish standards, thinking it would help with my sore feet but it just made me sleepy. Hoping for a better feet day tomorrow!

      We saw lots of cows! I included a picture from a travel agency’s window of a sign saying in Galicia you will never walk alone because there are over a million cows here.

      It wasn’t supposed to rain until 3:00 today but it started to rain around noon.

      We are down to 114 km to Santiago. In fact Sarría is where people who only have time to walk 100 km start.
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    • Giorno 54

      Now at Triacastela

      20 maggio 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      Woke up in very cold O Cebreiro, a spectacular morning, with the sun rising on the surrounding mountains. Had breakfast - fairly sparse here - toast, ham and cheese, jam, OJ (but not fresh squeezed) and coffee. Then the walkers set off at about 9.45, and I walked with them for a little way, round the mountain side, with spectacular views into the valleys. Then came back, didn’t have to vacate the room till 11, but had taxi booked for 10.30, sharing with another cripple! She was a very nice companion - a Norwegian who had developed a bad hip. Had a very nice taxi driver who got us here by 11, and we halved the cost, which made it much more manageable! Too early to check in, so we sat and had a ColaCao in the warm sun!! Not as cold as up on high!

      Finally checked in, a new place for us…it is an albergue, plus a “boutique pension” which we are in…a separate building, with newly appointed very functional rooms, and a wonderful shower which I have just emerged from…so arriving so early, it was a while to wait till Amr, R and R walked in. I stalked them and found they still had several hours to go. So relaxed, did some Words, and games, and walked back to the 800 year old chestnut tree that you pass as you walk into the town. I was waiting there, and became the photographer for people who wanted photos in front of the chestnut tree! A whole group of cyclists from Valencia posed, and were more amazed that I came from Australia…such a long way to Spain! It is always like this…such a long way everyone always says. So finally my trio emerged along the track, at about 3.20, so a long and quite difficult walk…first there was some serious uphill, and then serious downhill to Triacastela set down in the valley. They had magnificent views all the way, but quite hard work…Amr said it definitely wasn’t a walk for me, which made me feel better, as I do remember it as so beautiful. And a tough one for R and R on their first day of walking…about 22 kms. The photos will give an idea of the beauty.

      So before going to the rooms we all sat down and had drinks and sustenance. Amr his favourite pulpo, and some croquetas. Then shower and downtime for the walkers, I found the supermarket and got Amr his bottle of water con gas…. We met up again at 6.30 and had a wander through this tiny town, then sat and had dinner…so soon after the late “lunch”…we started at a table outside in the delicious sun - can’t believe I am wanting warmth! But when the sun moved (it doesn’t set till almost 10pm) we moved inside, suddenly it was cold again…I have learned not to have the 3 course menu del dia as I just can’t eat it all, so ordered a plate of our fave pimientos de padron, and paella, which is meant to be a first course serving, but still could not finish it all…all happy and satisfied, R and R did a great day’s walking and I think will sleep well. Our place is a complexo- a hotel, albergue and a restaurant where we ate, and where we will have breakfast…the busiest place in town, and the waiters are running non stop! But good service and food…another taxi to Sarria tomorrow as it is Sunday and not good for buses, but I think after that the bus will be the go. And again I will share with the Norwegian woman.
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