Spain
Valga

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    • Day 10

      Caldas de Reis to Iria Flavia

      July 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

      After taping our feet, we were on the Camino by 6:00 am. It was a cool and breezy 63 degrees. We were never cold in short sleeve shirts and shorts. It only takes 15 minutes of brisk walking to get warmed up. Again, we encountered beautiful vistas, woodland paths, and familiar faces.

      We took photos with the Portugues Scouts. Over lunch, we engaged in a refreshing discussion of Catholic and Protestant perspectives with John and Brenda from Ireland. We visited another Farmacia and got sunscreen, antibiotics, and more Aleve. All in all, a good day of walking!

      Iria Flavia has a remarkable history. Legend has it that this is where St. James’ body arrived in a boat. His bones were discovered before being moved to Santiago. There is evidence that St. James preached here (conversion of Queen Lupe) as well as evidence that the two churches were established in 6th century (but maybe 1st century). Our host gave us a speedy history lesson and sent us off to get a certificate in Padron. Lots of pride in this town of the part they play in the Way of St. James. Plus, the churches were open and we could get stamps for our pilgrim credential. (Most churches so far have been closed)

      Such a satisfying day physically and spiritually. An excellent precursor to arriving in Santiago on Thursday.
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    • Day 15

      The rain in Spain ....

      September 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      It's been a nice enough walk today the rain being intermittent but it has come on very heavy atm. So taking shelter with my mate the Spanish pilgrim we have met countless times and share quite a few Albergues sleeping beside each other at least 3 times. We had a sort of conversation he's a nice guy Paolo l. A lot of today's walk so far has been in the shadow of the motorway with noise so I played my music for the first time while walking this trip and it has been very nice. I reckon I'm about 5 miles from Pedron but think a few hills aheadRead more

    • Day 31

      Etapa 23: A Portela

      February 3 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

      We set out for the day going mostly through fields and farmlands. We saw some goats and had a nice moment with them and fed them some nearby grasses. They were super appreciative of that despite being in a field full of grass.

      We then traveled along a small river for a while which led into a larger town where we had lunch. I had pork ribs which were super tasty, but the sauce was served separately so they were quite messy to eat. After dinner we walked out of the city, but along the way stopped by a political tent ( I’m not sure why we did this) and some members of the group had a conversation about one of the local candidates. We were also all handed political flyers. I read through mine and had to ask Juan Pablo for some translations. The party was supposedly the the center-right party but there proposed policy seemed to be left of the democrats. It was quite interesting to hear about how the Spanish election system works.

      We arrived to the Alburgue a little after sundown. They had a big soup, hard-boiled eggs and bread waiting for us that was available to eat for a donation. Quite a simple meal, but filling.

      After dinner, the Alburgue caretaker, Paco, and I talked a bit about American music. He was super in to American rock from the 70s and ended up showing me different YouTube videos for like an hour of the Beastie Boys, Prodigy, and Simpsons clips. I also tried to show him some newer artists I thought he might like and he subscribed to all of the YouTube channels of everyone I recommended.
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    • Day 6

      Routine

      March 27 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

      The the last few days I've gotten into this routine where at 9am I pour my clear whey protein powder into the bottle and shake it for 30 minutes so I can have it at 9.30am. Because the bottle doesn't have the stirrer it takes a while for the protein to dissolve instead of just being one large clump. One of the reasons I came here was yo escape my routine and here I was starting another one!

      There are so many people on the walk that I'm just following people moving along. The rain is getting super intense and people I'm following start dropping off the path. They escape to cafes, stay under bus shelters or dip into restaurants. I'm pretty dry and my feet are still comfortable so I press on. I pass a few of the public laundry fountains. It's such a lovely communal space. I wonder if the people who used to use them back in the day had a set time to go, catch up with each other and clean their clothes.

      The route is pretty hilly now. Up and down these wooded paths. A few cyclists are on this route as well. You only need to cycle a 200km route to Santiago to get the certificate. Lots of Beun Caminos are being exchanged as they bump along.

      I hit a wall. My body is aching, my face and fingers are freezing but I'm also too warm under the rain coat, I realise I still have a minimum 3hrs more to walk, the rain is relentless, my mind is racing, I'm trying to look at the bright side and be positive and then the rain stops. Another bit of sunshine comes through. This time it lasts almost 30mins. I seriously needed that break through. Its as if the universe wanted to give me a break to keep pressing ahead. I was already planning out vstoius scenarios of what I'd do if I broke my ankle on this steep wet path. Thankfully I didn't need to use those options.
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    • Day 28

      Etappe 26

      June 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

      Hoi zämä!
      Anders als vermutet, habe ich mich heute Morgen mit Anmut und Grazie aus meinem Etagenbett geschwungen! Selbst ich war erstaunt, mit wieviel Eleganz mir der Ausstieg von oben gelang! Auch Roland machte eine gute Figur beim verlassen seiner, im ersten Stockwerk gelegenen, Bettstatt! Offenbar sind wir doch noch gelenkiger als erwartet!
      Die Etappe, die wir heute zu bewältigen hatten, führte uns bei Morgennebel, durch schöne Gebiete und kleinere Orte. Neuerdings werden wir in den Dörfern nicht mehr so oft mit Hundegebell empfangen, Nun sind es die "Güggel" die uns mit ihrem lauten "Kikeriki" freundlich begrüssen. 
      In den Waldlandschaften, die wir auch heute wieder durchquerten, wurden wir von Schmetterlingen und dem Gesang der vielen Vögel, die hier leben, begleitet.
      Nicht unbedingt zu unserer Freude, begegneten wir einem kleinen Hund, der offenbar lieber mit uns, als mit seinem Besitzer unterwegs sein wollte! Der Vierbeiner zottelte uns regelrecht hinterher und machte keine Anstalten zu seinem Herrchen zurückzukehren. Roland, dem Hundeflüsterer gelang es, nach einigen Fehlversuchen, glücklicherweise doch noch, den Wau-Wau zur Umkehr zu bewegen!
      Abwechslung in den Tag brachte auch ein Pärchen aus Bern, welches gerade eine Ruhepause am Wegesrand machte. Die zwei sympathischen Schweizer erzählten mit Begeisterung von den Erfahrungen, die sie hier mit den freundlichen Menschen bereits gemacht haben. Obwohl sie sehr unterhaltsam waren, haben wir uns nicht allzulange aufgehalten, denn vor uns lagen noch etliche Kilometer die wir zurückzulegen hatten. Nach 30Km wandern checkten wir, müde und erledigt,  in einer sehr schönen Herberge ein. Von dieser Unterkunft aus, brechen wir morgen zur letzten Etappe, Richtung Santiago-de-Compostela auf.
      Guet Nacht und schlafed guet!
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    • Day 13

      Richtung Valga

      May 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Danach war der Weg weiterhin ansteigend und mit schönen Ausblicken auf das hügelige Umland, durch ländliche Siedlungen und durch Felder. Bei Sonnenschein ☀️ sieht einfach alles noch viel schöner aus 😊

    • Day 9

      Slow like a Grandma

      March 30 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

      It's been raining all day; temp started to drop and rain getting heavier. so I decided to stop at a cafe for a cafe con leche.

      I'm by myself. Been listening to my downloaded music this morning, which helps a lot. Snapping pictures along the way.

      Two young women in their 20s who have met previously on the Camino joined again to share lunch. I overheard one say to the other that she is walking very slowly, "like a grandma".

      I found a blister this morning. Left foot, just under my big toe. Put mole tape over it.

      We are not walking tomorrow, so we'll be two nights at the next accommodation. I'm looking forward to the rest.
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    • Day 14

      12. Etappe - nach Cruces

      December 1, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Nach dem Pausentag konnten ich es kaum erwarten wieder loszugehen. Man gewöhnt sich irgendwie an dieses tägliche Laufen :)
      Das Wetter war besser als erwartet und so gingen wir um 10 Uhr los.
      Nach Caldas de Reis waren wir eigentlich bis Padron nur in der Natur unterwegs.

      Bei einer kurzen Pause wurde ich von einem Spanier angesprochen. Er realisierte schnell, dass ich kein Spanisch spreche und wollte wissen woher ich bin. Am Schluss stellte sich heraus, dass er lange in der Schweiz - in Glarus - gearbeitet hat... die Welt ist halt schon klein. 😊

      Schnell waren die 20km bis Padron zurückgelegt. Bis zur Unterkunft waren es dann aber nochmals 6km und die waren streng. 🙈
      Wir waren froh, als wir endlich ankamen. Jetzt erholen wir uns ein letztes Mal, denn morgen erreichen wir Santiago.
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    • Day 32

      Day 27 to Padron

      May 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

      Today was another beautiful 13.25 miles along old roman roads that are now country roads through farmland and forest areas. Today we saw real life happening as people were cleaning their houses and working in their expansive gardens. There also were goats and a lot of chickens in the yards. These last two days are more of what we expected the Camino to look like.

      Again, there were many pilgrims and yet many times it seemed that we had the trail to ourselves. The pilgrims all managed to get together at the cafes which were sufficient but not in abundance.

      We didn't meet anyone new today but did catch up with a few old friends that we haven't seen for 3 or 4 days since along the coast.

      We are at a hotel just outside of the town of Padron, so there is nothing here to explore. But the hotel grounds are beautiful and we will enjoy drinks in the garden.

      We had a wonderful dinner at the hotel with pilgrim friends Chris and Chrissy from Texas, Bryanna from Boston, and Alicia from Sweden. It is great baking friends if there Camino! Everyone is looking forward to Santiago!

      Only one day off walking left - under 25 km!!
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    • Day 13

      The boat and onwards

      July 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      My 7h00 boat trip was moved to 9h20, for which I was very grateful. The boat could hold 30, which would have been very snug, but we were only about 18. The captain (who's name was Santiago!) was very informative, but fuller commentary was given in Spanish, less in English. He explained about the harvesting of mussels from man-made platforms and we watched some mussel collectors at work. He also told us to keep an eye out for 12 stone crosses which were to show the way to Padrón, where the boat carrying the remains of Saint James is said to have been moored.
      On arrival at Pontecersus, a 2.5 km walk Led to Padrón. It was market day and heaving with people. The noise and bustle was quite overwhelming. Still, it provided a great chance to replenish my depleted fruit supply and added some delicious fruit bread and Galicia cheese.
      Visited the church for a stamp which allowed me to claim a Pedronia certificate. To a non-Catholic, the service seemed quite evangelical with guitar, instead of organ and more time seemed to be given to the singer than the padre.
      Confusión over getting the Pedronia delayed my next stage. Having been overwhelmed by the number of pilgrims in Padrón, the route was suddenly quiet, most must be staying in the town.
      After another 10km,stopped at the municipal albergue just outside
      O Faramello. New, clean hostel with several eating places nearby. I chose the one up the hill, purely so that I could wander down to my bed. Legs définitely tired today; total of 20 walking km plus another 28 by boat.
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