Clérigos Tower

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    • Day 12

      Porto Historical Walking Tour

      May 17 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      We started our day with a great breakfast variety in our hotel then took an uber to the start of our 3 hour walking tour. Angelica was our tour guide in Porto. My notes are a bit rough, but more to try to remember key bits of info or stories
      St Francis church- gold leaf and tile

      In the 800's a soldier kept the Moors at bay w.King, so king gave him the land which is now a district of Porto

      Built cathedral as a fortress with 2 towers
      Order of importance:
      Catholic kings
      Bishop ruled Porto
      Many Patron saints St Vincent -3 euros tower and view of city
      Story goes that St Vincent, on his pilgrimage, and their horse with the relics walked into this church and died so they thought that was a sign from God to stay in Porto.

      Public execution spot here also during dictatorship.
      Dictator 50 years in power brought it here to say watch out

      Over 49 churches

      Very Catholic

      Braga, also churches...all about praying

      Porto is know for hard working

      3-5 kg of gold in St Francis

      Port wine institute

      Camino trail signs w shell sun

      Old boats carry port

      Monastery above bridge

      Fado music is deep and melancholy. Deeply felt by the Portugese people and they sing about:
      Remember your sorrows, penas,
      which are feathers, and go away with the wind, but my sorrows stay with me. They are heavy.

      Santa Ana mother of Virgin Mary
      People come pray here

      In Gaia: 3 best things
      Wine houses for port
      View of Porta

      Douro River with 2 bridges, one for king and one for the queen

      Portugese people are
      melancholy, were opressed through the long dictatorship
      They like to complain about everything.
      Glass not half full, its more like where's the water!!

      Henrique the navigator start of the Discovery Era - statue and on tiles in Sao Bento train Station

      Portugese chocolate stop- amazing
      Oils, chocolate, jams, olive pastes

      20,000 tiles hand painted in the
      Sao Bento train Station
      Tiles show Agriculture, wine, local festivals, religious processions
      Story around top is timeline from Roman Times to the arrival of the train
      Henry the Navigator 

      Most beautiful McDonalds in the world in the former Majestic Cafe
      This is where JKRowling wrote the first 2 Harry Potter books

      Francescina( means little french woman) sandwich of porto.
      A French man created it to see if Portugese women ( very conservative)would be more liberal like French women.

      2 churches side by side, one 16th century and the other 17th century separated by a 1.50m house in the middle. This was to avoid taxes because 2 churches could not share the same wall

      Sicamore trees in a park across from Justice Building
      Lady justice in front of justice building is not typical during dictatorship of Salazar. This one basically represented:
      "I see you, I don't care about justice and I might stab you first"...during dictatorship
      Typically, Lady Justice is blindfolded b/c she is fair, doesn't care your background or who you were, her scales represent fairness and she is not stupid, has the sword just in case!
      The park across the street has art installations which some say signify laughing at the Justice system???

      JkRowling connections, wrote 2 books in Majestic Cafe which is now McDonalds.
      Coincidences from her time living in Porto: Book store in Porto very similar to in her book and movies , griffin fountain, 2 churches joined by 1.50 m house, university students and cloaks, salazar character named after dictator

      Mayor wanted a 4 km stretch like Champs Elysses in Paris. Church was in the way and said no to moving it, so they built a building in front of that church with the same shape and one tower so you can't see that church at all now. That building is now the City hall!!

      St Clara Church - so beautiful
      100 to 150 nuns in cloister separated from public by gates with spikes on it. The public had to be at least 20m away from the nuns for privacy.
      Jacarinda wood used for the nuns chairs in the upper cloister is from Brazil. It is almost extinct so can be difficult to do restoration. They had an organ used to practice before doing actual masses.

      Gold leaf throughout the church was from Brazil. It was a tax payment to gov't who then gave some to the church

      They had images on their chairs to indicate which nun sat in each chair. Some images were made to remind the nuns how ugly the men were and as a reminder of their choice to become a nun. The images may have been requested by the nun because of an interest and images were chosen from medieval influence.
      The nuns' chairs were designed so they could rest their arms on the arms of the chairs and place the edge of their butt on image on the chair to rest and their dress covered this do they still looked like they were standing.
      The nuns would sing and the public thought it was the angels singing b/c they couldn't see the nuns above in the cloister.

      After the tour we went for lunch and tried the local Francescina dish. It was very good. We then visited the St Clara Church and returned to pick up some of the pastes from the chocolate shop. We went into a few shops here and there, walked across the top then returned on the bottom of the Luis I Bridge. We walked to the bus stayion to get back to our hotel in time for our meeting to get our bikes and information for the start of our cycling trip on the Coastal Camino tomorrow. Afterwards we had another charcuterie dinner together before heading to our rooms to pack and prep for tomorrow. A great day today👌
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    • Day 229

      Caminho Portuguese 6 - Geschafft!

      September 13, 2019 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Ich habe es geschafft und bin heute Nachmittag an der Kathedrale in Porto angekommen. 😃🎉🎉
      Als ich in Santiago losgelaufen bin, hatte ich die Ankunft in Porto eigentlich für Sonntag, den 15.9 geplant aber nun bin ich doch schon zwei Tage eher am Ziel. 💪
      Nach insgesamt rund 1110 Kilometern endet damit meine Pilger-Wanderung und in den nächsten 48 Stunden werde ich versuchen, mich so wenig wie möglich zu bewegen, bevor ich Porto erkunde. 😉
      Der Weg war heute nochmal sehr schön aber zum Ende hin auch anstrengend durch die Sonne und die hochsommerlichen Temperaturen.
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    • Day 233


      September 17, 2019 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Nachdem ich Samstag und Sonntag wirklich nichts getan habe außer zu faulenzen, habe ich mir gestern und heute die Stadt angeschaut.
      Ich war überrascht, wie hügelig Porto ist. Ständig geht es bergauf und bergab. Ich kann schon verstehen, warum viele Besucher die Tour-Busse nutzen oder sich im Tuk Tuk herum fahren lassen 😉, obwohl die Stadt mit der überschaubaren Größe gut zu Fuß zu erkunden ist.
      Es gibt unheimlich viele Kirchen in der Stadt - gefühlt an jeder Ecke. 😅
      Sehr cool finde ich die vielen Kork-Produkte, die es hier zu kaufen gibt. (Mir war gar nicht bewusst, dass Portugal weltweit führend ist in der Kork-Produktion.)
      Morgen geht es für mich weiter nach Lissabon. 😊
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    • Day 7


      July 17, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

      One of the troubles with travel is the constant balancing of seeing all the things and also investing sufficient time to appreciate and understand the things we see. I think I erred on the side of 'all the things' in this case and am wishing I had arranged to have more depth. Which would, of course, mean less breadth - either here or in another place before or after.

      I arrived by bus and strolled through part of the city being (re)built - cacophonous and dusty, my initial impression was not positive. When I saw a big yellow topless double-decker tour bus roll by, I was reminded of fun times in Guadalajara and decided to get a quick view of the city (breadth) along with an audiotour (depth, ish) without too kuc hiking around in the brilliant sunshine.

      I was pleasantly surprised by the inexpensive Gallery Hostel and its inviting bar, but bopped off to see the sights. Walking through the Old Town on my way to the bus tour immediately reframed my perspective!

      Oporto is a beautiful diverse city full of things and places to explore.

      Castles, rivers, wine, books, monuments, alleys, hills, cathedrals, cobblestones, highways, murals, fountains.... The list is near endless.

      The bus tour was delightful and if I had more time I'd go again (24 hr pass is 22€) to hop-on/hop-off and add depth to the more interesting sights. But I started late and there are only so many hours in the day. After the bus I stumbled upon a beautiful bookstore (see other post), gelato, and then took myself to watch a nice sunset before finding a delicious albeit slightly overpriced (Touristy) dinner of steamed clams, fresh bread, and a salmon/avocado salad. The red wine I had was excellent.

      I can't quite figure out the timing here- places seem to open fairly late, like Spain, but close earlier than I expected.... Which was good as I could use the rest.

      After an ample and tasty breakfast I spent 40 minutes running (almost literally) around town trying to time the hop-on bus. A brisk morning walk through awakening city streets, invigorating! Then I jumped on bus tour #2 - 'beaches and castles'... Which felt less historic but was scenic and the cool sea breeze reminds me of home. The tour wrapped up at the Cathedral and I did a speed-tour of same, marveling at the tiles and the views, recoiling from the ostentatious display of 'treasures'.

      In 24 hours I didn't even scratch the surface.
      I'm clear that I'd like to come back for more.
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    • Day 21

      Dqy 38 Porto 711 km

      October 29, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      Chatted a long while with Carla from Chile. She was telling me all about her country.....Yup I would love to go there👍

      I walked over to the famous library " Livraria Lello" that inspired J. R. Rowlings Hogwarts library in the Harry Potter series.
      I felt like a sardine in a tin with the hoards of people. The lineups were phenomenal to get in. Beautiful architecture inside. Well worth the wait and 8 Euros. I have never seen anything like it.

      I then proceeded to another lineup to see the Cllerigos Church andu Tower.
      Very beautiful.

      I will say it is expensive to be a tourist with most admissions being 8 Euros🤔

      When I was walking back to the hostel I heard a lot of shouting. There was a huge protest in front of the city hall. I am thinking it may be related to the Palestine issue? The participants were all young people dressed in black

      I have an early flight tomorrow to Bilbao.
      Porto was a great place to visit.
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    • Day 2

      Buchhandlung & Torre dos Clérigos

      November 16, 2019 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

      Porto hat viele Buchläden. Doch vor einem stehen alle Schlange: Lello. Direkt an der Uni bietet sich der Standort gut an. Der Erfolg liegt aber nur an der wunderschönen hölzernen Treppe im Laden. Diese soll J. K. Rowling inspiriert haben und somit die Treppe aus Harry Potter sein.

      Da mittlerweile kaum noch einer ein Buch kauft (die Einheimischen schon gar nicht), zahlt man 5 Euro Eintritt. Diese werden sogar beim Kauf eines Buches verrechnet. Selbst wenn keiner ein Buch kauft, bleibt bei bis zu 4000 Besucher pro Tag ein stattlicher Gewinn.

      Schräg gegenüber kann man 240 Stufen und damit den Torre dos Clérigos besteigen. Er wurde 1763 fertig gestellt. Unter den Gläubigen ist er als mahnender Zeigefinger bekannt. Auf dem Weg den Turm rauf kann man noch eine kleine Ausstellung besichtigen. Besonders schön: man läuft auf der Empore einmal um die Kirche rum.

      Tipp: für zart besaitete ist der Aufstieg nichts. Es ist an sich schon sehr eng und wird herausfordernd da auch der Gegenverkehr diesen Weg nehmen muss.
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    • Day 36

      Torre dos Clérigos

      October 9, 2019 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      We decided we were up to the 225 stair climb to the top of this monument, as we would be rewarded with 360 degree views of Porto. However, unlike the organised process used to control the tower climb in Coimbra, this was basically a free for all once you got through the last barrier. The spiral staircase was narrow, and half way up narrowed further. When we got to the top and made it outside onto the viewing area most people were polite and waited and went in one direction, but as always there was one or two who didn’t, which caused congestion and drama for everyone.

      Once we had viewed Porto from all directions, we started our descent. We got about half way down when we encountered a number of people coming up. We decided to stop and let them all pass, but this incredibly rude Russian couple and their kid just pushed their way through. I made it blatantly clear to them that this was not good - told them they were rude and selfish, and I am sure they understood because they wouldn’t look me in the eye. After we let everyone pass and started heading down again, the Russian guy had stopped to do up his shoelace, and so we passed him and then also his wife and kid, who ended up behind us the rest of the way down, unbelievable! I have decided that, in relation to tourists, the Russians and the mainland Chinese are the most rude, aggressive and pushy. I know this is a generalisation, but it has been my experience over a number of years. We still enjoyed the experience, it is just annoying that people are so selfish.
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    • Day 3

      Porto, Stadtrundgang 11.09.2023, Teil 2

      September 11, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Ein wunderbares Rathaus. Leider hatte der Bürgermeister andere Termine und konnte mich nicht empfangen. Na vielleicht beim nächsten Mal.
      Mein Weg führte mich weiter durch viele idyllische Gassen bis zur Igreja do Carmo.Read more

    • Day 5

      Torre dos Clérigos

      April 26, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      After we had breakfast at cute "Mom and Pop café" close to our accommodation, we walked to this plaza close by to see this tower built in 1753. At one time this was the highest building in Porto and is probably the most iconic landmark of the city.Read more

    • Day 5

      Day 5 Overview

      April 26, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Explored the north side of the river again in the morning and walked over the bridge in the afternoon. A lot of walking up and down the steep hills, but Porto is quite compact. We covered a total of 14,974 steps or 10.1km.

      Dinner at Taberna d'Avo. Nancy had noted this cute restaurant very near our accommodation and it had good reviews. Run by a couple, no reservations, come 10 minutes early if you want a table when they open at 1900 hrs as there are only 10 tables. We were first in line and were quickly seated with the other three groups waiting and it quickly filled up. One waiter managed all the tables efficiently and we enjoyed our appetizers of Portuguese sausage, bread and sardine pate followed by cod fish cakes served with rice and beans. It looked like a soup but you strained the rice and beans out and it was very tasty, the food in Portugal is not overly salty despite the extensive use of "salt cod" which requires soaking for a day or two to desalt and reconstitute it. We plan to learn more about the history of cod at a specialty museum in Lisbon.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Clérigos Tower, Clerigos Tower

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