Tanzania
Vuga

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    • Día 29

      Stone Town

      26 de abril de 2022, Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

      Am Dienstag war ich das 2. und letzte mal in Stone Town. Dort sind wir in eine Mall gegangen und bei strömenden Regen durch die Gassen. In den Gassen sind wir in verschiedene Souvenir Stores gegangen und haben letzte Erledigungen gemacht. Achso und außerdem habe ich das Freddie Murcury Museum in Sansibar entdeckt, rein gehen konnten wir aufgrund der mangelnden Zeit leider nicht.
      Ich habe mich super gefreut Stone Town nochmal gesehen zu haben.
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    • Día 19

      Auf geht's ins Getümmel

      7 de octubre de 2022, Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      Nach unserem gestrigen Kniffel-Match ging es für uns heute entspannt in den letzten Tag.
      Beim Frühstück haben wir die Info bekommen, dass wir die ganze Zeit bis zur Abholung 16 Uhr im Zimmer bleiben dürfen.

      Das Wasser war heute früh soweit zurück, sodass wir uns auf dem Weg zu der gegenüberliegenden Sandbank gemacht haben. Der Weg führte durch klarem Wasser und an den schönsten Korallen vorbei. Aber Vorsicht war geboten, da es vor Seeigeln nur soo wimmelte. Nach gut einer Stunde waren wir auf der anderen Seite angekommen und es war herrlich! Weißer Sand und türkisfarbendes Wasser ringsherum. Lange konnten wir aber nicht bleiben, da die Flut allmählich kam.

      Auf dem Rückweg sahen wir eine Menge Seesterne in verschiedenen Farben (blau, schwarz, rot). 😊
      Da das Wasser immer höher kam konnten wir die Seeigel nicht mehr zu 100% erkennen, sodass ich Christian irgendwann die Stacheln aus dem Schuh ziehen musste. Bloß gut nur, dass wir Badeschuhe anhatten. Der Rückweg dauerte tatsächlich ca. 2 Stunden sodass wir wie die Krebse zurück kamen und uns erstmal im Schatten ausruhen mußten. Aber schön wars trotzdem!

      Den weiteren Nachmittag haben wir noch mal in unserem Stammlokal gegessen und haben das Meer richtig genossen.

      Um 16 Uhr hieß es dann Abschied nehmen und wir fuhren zu unserem neuen und letzten Hotel in Stonetown. Das Hotel liegt direkt am Old Fort und in wenigen Gehminuten ist man am Wasser. Dort ist allerhand los und die Teenies springen von den Klippen ins flache Wasser 🙈. Den Abend haben wir in einem wunderschönen Restaurant direkt am Wasser verbracht und konnten endlich mal den Sonnenuntergang hier in vollen Zügen genießen.

      Nun sitzen wir hier in unserem Zimmer und spielen nochmals eine Partie Kniffel. Das Zimmer hat einen arabischen Touche und wir fühlen uns, wie in einem Hinterzimmer eines türkischen Cafés 🤣 Aber es ist schön und überzeugt mit der wunderbaren Dachterasse und den 2m bis zum Pool!

      Morgen werden wir uns den alten Sklavenmarkt anschauen und durch die Gassen von Stonetown schlendern. Dann heißt es auf Wiedersehen Tansania!
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    • Día 2

      Stone Town

      14 de diciembre de 2022, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

      A week spent in the beautiful stone town mostly involved wandering the old streets, trying the street food, and generally taking it "pole pole" (slow in Swahili). It's a sleepy town for most of the day, with the waterfront coming to life just before sunset as the temperature drops and the locals gather on the waterfront and beach to eat and socialise. A highlight and a must for anyone coming here is to watch groups of boys doing dance routines, acrobatics, and cliff jumping.
      The locals are super friendly, and yes obviously half of them are trying to get something, but at least half of them just want to have a chat and welcome you to Zanzibar, especially those outside of the tourist areas. One of my favourite places to wander was Darajani Bazaar, a local market where people genuinely wanted to say hello and welcome (jambo/karibu), and I picked up some awesome climate appropriate Swahili dresses - those ladies really know what they're on about wearing these! One evening I sat and had a coffee for 200 shilling (7p) with some locals finishing up work for the day and discussed the football from the night before (no I didn't watch it - but I saw snippets as locals gathered in groups around TVs in the streets).
      And of course I had to do some proper tourist stuff too, so I went on a Spice tour and did a Swahili cooking class - damn the food was good! I also went to the Slavery Memorial and learnt about the history of slavery on the island - sobering stuff.
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    • Día 168

      Zanzibar Stone Town & Spice Farm

      29 de junio de 2023, Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

      Gestern um 3.00 Uhr sind wir auf der Insel Zanzibar eingeflogen und haben unser Hostel in Stone Town bezogen. 🇹🇿

      Heute besuchten wir mit einem lokalen Tourguide die Hakuna Matata Spice Farm im Dorf Dole.
      Der Guide führte uns durch die Farm und wir konnten viele neue Gewürze und Früchte sowie Heilpflanzen durch riechen und/oder schmecken kennenlernen.🌿🌶️🍌🍊🥭 Eine sehr interessante Erfahrung. Das Dorf ist sehr von Armut geprägt, sind jedoch sehr stolz auf ihr Dorf mit 2'000 Einwohnern.

      Anschliessend gingen wir zurück nach Stone Town und bekamen eine Führung durch die Stadt. 95% der Einwohner von Zanzibar gehören dem Islam an. 🕌Zanzibar war Früher der Drehort der Sklaven, wodurch viele Kulturen sich hier niederliessen. Einer der Hauptkulturen sind Araber und Inder. Stone Twon gilt als Unesco Weltkulturerbe.
      Der Guide führte uns ebenfalls durch die lokalen Märkte.

      Gruss aus Ostafrika
      Hakuna Matata und ganz nach dem Moto Pole Pole.

      Noemi und Alessandra
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    • Día 12

      Stonetown

      17 de abril, Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      Danach gingen wir Stone Town angucken. Das ist eine Stadt aus Stein gebaut, was in Afrika was besonderes ist. Nachdem die Portugiesen Zanzibar lange beherrscht und auch Christianisiert hatten, wurde die Insel von Arabern aus dem Oman übernommen und islamisiert. Der baute auch grossteils die Stone Town. Und der Sultan wohnte auch hier. Durch einen 36 Minuten langen Krieg wieder ein paar hundert Jahre später übernahmen die Engländer die Insel. Diese ist aber bis heute zu 80% muslimisch.
      Der Sklavenhandel wurde von den Portugiesen durch die Araber übernommen und danach auch von den Einheimischen selbst weitergeführt.
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    • Día 2

      Endlich da!

      11 de mayo de 2023, Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      30 Stunden Reise liegen hinter uns - trotz der vielen Schwierigkeiten sind wir endlich da und wurden auf dem Flug von Nairobi nach Zanzibar mit einem atemberaubenden Blick auf den Kili belohnt!

      Nach der langen Suche nach dem Hostel- keiner von den locals scheint es zu kennen 😅 - können wir einchecken und los geht’s ins Getümmel. Zuerst wird sich um eine Simkarte gekümmert, wofür man tatsächlich seinen Pass, Unterschrift etc. angeben musste und vor allem ganz lange wartet…aber weiter geht’s durch den verwinkelten Stadtteil Stone Towns.

      Hier lernen wir viel über den Sklavenhandel in der Anglican Cathedral und unterhalten uns mit einem sehr netten Guide - es ist wirklich erschreckend, was Menschen anderen Menschen antuen können. Ein leckeres Essen in einem lokalen Restaurant schließt sich an, wo Roberts Augen mal wieder größer waren als sein Hunger und er sich drei frittierte Reisbälle zum Nachtisch bestellt, und ab geht’s zum Sonnenuntergang am Strand.
      Ein Bier und Karten runden den Abend ab und wir sind schon gespannt, was der morgige Tag uns bringen wird!
      Usiku mwema!
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    • Día 97–98

      Park Hyatt, Zanzibar

      8 de abril, Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 81 °F

      Storm clouds permeate the horizon as a deluge lets loose around us. We tender to shore across a rolling swell, admiring the conviction of those aboard other small, uncovered boats. Navigating the winding streets, perhaps more accurately alley ways, we arrive at our hotel.

      Blending Swahili, Persian, Indian, and European influences, the former small palace of the Sultan of Oman has been transformed into a five star accommodation for these excited guests. Known as Mambo Msiige, or “not to be copied,” this mansion sits among the markets and Stone Town’s main attractions.

      After exploration and adventure, we enjoy local fare accompanied by live music. Drinks and music and friends carry us sturdily, late into the night.
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    • Día 92

      Zanzibar unguja again

      17 de diciembre de 2023, Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

      What’s up, I am back in the same spot as a week or two ago? Am I bad in travelling or something, did I miss something here that I wanted to revisit? (Did I actually meet a prostitute on the island that I fell in love with? )

      Well, no, here is the thing: cycling was too hot, I went diving, and now decided I will go back to dark es salaam to take the train at some point, so just chilling it with plenty of other tourists in zanzibar for two days. And I missed the old slave market last time I was here, which I had to go and visit.

      I made a new footprint to elaborate more on zanzibar. Because it’s touristic, and it’s busy, and it’s too busy with busy tourism. It’s too busy in that, through the super small alleyways and between the zigzag of small alleys, you constantly bump into small “taxis” or motorcycles. You are also not allowed to be tired here, or you will be punished by the city immediately and mercilessly: the honking and motorcycles make it impossible. (Nice thing is that I am immediately tired due to the heat…)

      It’s too touristy in that everyone wants something of you; that you have shops called “the souvenir emporium” (cringe); and that you have ten (easily; Turkish markets dont come close) of the same shops selling (or trying to) the same thing—masaai people selling their armbands and necklaces. And that you have to be careful about not being ripped off.

      What is cool about the tourism is that you can find good specialty coffee shops and feel like at home. I had a decent espresso by my standards, which was really something new. Also, and this is because tourism and because of the diverse heritage of Zanzibar, you have lassi here at some places, which is my favourite cool drink by far in the heat. Ayran but better.

      That is the thing about Zanzibar, it has a history of belonging to Portuguez, Oman, and Britain (Germany only controlled towns inland I believe), and for a long time there was a sultan of zanzibar, and it was a prosperous place due to very successful plantations (centering on cloves) and due to the ports, making the city very very rich and prosperous. (I also read that “ ...It might be called Stinkabar rather than Zanzibar”, because it smelled so bad 150 years ago). But around the 18th century, slavery became one of the most profitable business— I learned that slavery, even amongst blacks (different tribes) was very common before the Arabs or Portuguez started it, but the Omans and Arabs made it into a business on the island. (Moslims cannot take moslims as slaves, but no issue with blacks.) All blacks on the island were slaves during the 18th century, under the Sultans rule, and Zanzibar hosted a primary slavery market for entire east africa. Plus of course the plantation slaves. This made for a lot of islamic influences, arab people, and indian people living here; it also made for a lot of slavery of blacks, and slavery was the most profitable business on this island. (All blacks living here were apparently slaves…) About a third went to work on clove and coconut plantations of Zanzibar and Pemba while the rest were exported to Persia, Arabia, the Ottoman Empire and Egypt. (Pasted from wikipedia)

      It was worth coming back here, as I managed to ask a lot of questions to the ticket clerk at the museum, who was a historian. So I learned that slavery was only made worse by degree by Portuguese and Arabs, that the British might have said to want to abolish slavery early in the nineteenth century, but it would have sucked too much economically, so they held off for a bit, and about some blacks being employed as slave porters (and in fact becoming rich sometimes doing this) for the Arabs; in fact Tippu Tip (one of the most powerful slave traders) descended from a black and someone from Oman. Slavery was just business: frequently also a business to transport ivory, say, so a means to an end.

      Lastly, Zanzibars road to independence (going through the British and back to a Sultan) was not without bloodshed, when there was a revolt and several thousand ethnic Arab (5,000-12,000 Zanzibaris of Arabic descent) and Indian civilians were murdered and thousands more detained or expelled, their property either confiscated or destroyed.

      Currently this town is just full of it’s own character, and not being anything like other towns I have seen. But also touristy. And busy.
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    • Día 491

      Captivity

      1 de marzo de 2020, Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

      "We must find new lands from which we can easily obtain raw materials and at the same time exploit the cheap slave labor that is available from the natives of the colonies. The colonies would also provide a dumping ground for the surplus goods produced in our factories." [Cecil Rhodes]

      “Captivity is the greatest of all evils that can befall one.” » Miguel de Cervantes

      Slavery has always existed in various forms and even the Roman Seneca the Younger wrote “Slavery takes hold of few, but many take hold of slavery.”
      The East African slave trade was funneled to the markets in Zanzibar, (although there were several others on the mainland,) partly because there was already a well established trading route run by Omani Arabs up the coast. In the 10th Century many slaves were sent to Iraq to fight in wars there, but by the 19th C the enormous numbers required to work in the cinnamon & clove plantations inspired several tribal groups to prey on each other.
      All of the main racial groups were involved in the slave trade in some way or other. French and Portugese used slaves in their plantations in the Indian Ocean islands (Martinique, Reunion etc), and Africans captured and sold prisoners taken in battle, or just kidnapped them. (The British developed the Western, Atlantic routes which competed for heads.)
      There was a fate worse than slavery: when there was a glut of potential slaves the Doe tribe north of Bagamoyo enjoyed eating the ‘excess supplies’.
      The trip down to the coast -often 1000 km - was unpleasant and an astonishing number died. One would imagine that the slavers would look after their assets but they were marched enormous distances daily on a bowl of gruel with a log around their necks or carrying enormous quantities of ivory. Any that couldn't make it were disposed of unceremoniously. Then, when they were near Zanzibar, the traders decided whether it was worth paying the tax or duty on each person: if not they were murdered on the beach.
      In Stone Town they were kept in various cellars such as the one photographed. Stuffy and claustrophobic, after an average of 3 days in here the weakest collapsed and were chucked on the beach to die. The rest were taken up to the market and apparently flogged on the spot where the Anglican Church's altar now stands; to increase their sale value if they didn't cry out. (I suspect this is a bit of hyperbole for the tourists but then, it wouldn't surprise me.) After all that, being sold must have seemed a minor problem for, whilst plantation life was certainly rough, domestic life was better than they might have had previously.
      One testimony in the exhibition on the site of the old slave markets, is from a woman who was accused of being someone's slave and managed to prove her manumission to the magistrate. She was awarded a sum of money and when asked what use she would make of the cash, said that she would buy a slave.
      Another celebrity was Salme (1824-1924), the daughter of Omani Sultan Sayeed Said (d. 1856) and a Circassian concubine from the Caucasus Mountains of Russia who was part of the his harem. She eloped with a German merchant, changed her name to Emily Ruete and wrote "Memoirs of an Arabian Princess from Zanzibar" about her life.
      Many women were suria, which was a state of slavery for them but not their children. This has resulted in a rich and varied gene pool in Zanzibar, often in particularly attractive people.
      In 1822, the Omani Arabs signed the Moresby treaty which made it illegal for them to sell slaves to Christian powers. After helping to convince Sultan Barghash of Zanzibar to abolish the trade on 6th June 1873, (in the usual British Diplomatic way,) the Royal Navy enforced the agreement by patrolling the waters and intercepting any dhows with human cargo.
      Interestingly, the good Anglican sailors deliberately attributed the trade in its entirety to heathen Mohammedans. In fact, the richest trader was the infamous Tippu Tip (1837-1905) otherwise known as Hamed bin Mohammed, who was African. Usually though, it was the Africans who collected and the Arabs who divested.
      Despite the best efforts of HM Navy, and numerous photos of rugged matelots lofting liberated and wriggling brown babies into the air, (one can rely on the British shoulder for innocent propaganda,) the trade continued, particularly on the mainland. Slaving was illegal but existed openly until Britain defeated the Germans in the First World War.
      Freedom was not all it cracked up to be, even when the illiterate and often isolated plantation slaves finally understood what it meant that they were free. Some slaves had even been allowed to save a little money they made for their owner and buy property: on manumission they lost the land. Worse, they could not stay on the plantation as squatters and had to leave, becoming vagrants and thus subject to imprisonment and hard labour. The British authorities were concerned about keeping the now government owned plantations running and offered minimal wages to ex-slaves to continue working. Restricted land rights and a compulsory hut tax made sure they never escaped.
      Thus the modern system of slavery was introduced. It has grown in the 21stC in every country of the world to somewhere between 21 to 36 million people. That is more than the number of slaves seized during the entire African slave trade. The International Labour Organisation has put the value of slave labour output at 150 billion USD annually. This includes bonded labour, forced labour, child slavery, early or forced marriage as well as descent based slavery.
      In the news over the past few days, the Australian Strategic Policy Institute revealed that the Uighurs were being captured and made to work as prisoners for multinational companies in China. They are an Islamic people of Turkic origin whom the Chinese Communist Party portrays since 9/11 as auxiliaries of al-Qaeda. Without any evidence. But that didn't stop the US locking 20 of them in Guantanamo Bay for years without being charged with any offence. We don't really care about them of course, (we care about big Brand names being tarnished and wasting all that advertising money,) but still it is slavery.

      “The distinguishing sign of slavery is to have a price, and to be bought for it.” [John Ruskin]
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    • Día 3

      Stone Town, Zanzibar

      3 de noviembre de 2022, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      Unser Tag begann mit einem super Frühstück im Hostel. Im Anschluss wollten wir den Weg zum Busterminal in Stone Town ablaufen, um zu gucken, ob wir den Weg mit unseren Backpacks schaffen. Auf Sansibar heißen öffentliche Busse Dala Dala; eine Nummer an der Frontscheibe verrät das Ziel. Unser Ziel heißt Matemwe - Dala Dala Nummer 118.
      Nachdem wir den eher touristischen Teil von Stone Town verlassen hatten, merkten wir schnell, dass wir vermutlich ein Taxi nehmen sollten. Auch am Busterminal wurden wir diesbezüglich bestätigt.
      Den weiteren Tag verbrachten wir im Café Bamboo mit Blick auf das Meer, in den engen Gassen von Stone Town, im Livingstone am Strand, im alten Fort und abends beim leckeren indischen Essen in einem vegetarischen Restaurant.
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