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  • Tim's TravelsLas Vegas, Northern California
    Day 16

    Home. Meh. Ruminations + reflections...

    October 16, 2022 in England ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    We all manage to get a half-decent sleep on the flight, and Vicki demands some bubbles before we land. We're into our cab by 17:30, and home just before 19:00. The boys are somewhat happy to see us - a little bit skittish, but they settle quickly.

    So, some reflections, thoughts etc etc.

    1) We've had an awesome trip. Vegas was, well - Vegas. Northern California is a lovely part of the world to spend time in.
    2) Road-trips are tough. I think if we head off on another similar trip, I'll plan on a maximum of 5 hours per day in the car. The first day was brutal, and at times a little scary! Ant and I wanna do a road-trip through the deep South for our 50ths in a few years' time, so some helpful lessons learnt.
    3) I love the US, and particularly the West coast part of it. Folks are lovely without being folksy, the scenery is some of the most breathtaking I've ever seen, and the cities are great. It's wickedly expensive right now (thanks Liz Truss...), with basic drinks regularly costing £10 or thereabouts. It's still possible to eat and drink on a bit of a budget, but you've just gotta work a bit harder to do it.
    4) We thought of several things that the US demonstrably does better than the UK. In no particular order:
    a) Hash browns.
    b) Pocket packets of tissues
    c) Happy hours
    d) Back roads
    e) The cooking of bacon
    f) Turn-outs on single lane roads
    g) Sports bars
    h) Gas stations (the stock of the attached shop, and the ability to pin the nozzle open, so you don't have to hold it to fill up).

    5) San Francisco has gone straight into my top few cities in the world. Since you ask, the others are Cape Town, Amsterdam, Melbourne, Barcelona. London is not in the top 10.
    6) I need another holiday. (Antigua, January. Tenterhooks, obviously).    Read more

  • Tim's TravelsLas Vegas, Northern California
    1
    Day 15

    San Francisgo...

    October 15, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    It's our last day in California, and a we're all a little subdued. Perhaps a little hungover, but mainly subdued. We need to be out of our AirBnB by 10:00, which cues much scurrying and packing. We've really enjoyed our time in San Francisco, and are very sad that it's coming to an end... We haven't much in the way of plans for the day. The proposed long, boozy seafood lunch has been curtailed by Karl's presence over the bay, so we'll just head out and see where the day takes us.

    We grab some breakfast down in the city centre, accompanied by a forthright and spicy Bloody Mary each. Heading down into the Financial District, we find a cable car queue with no one in it, so jump on for a ride over to Polk Gulch. We pass the Fairmont, home of the Tonga Room, and on past Grace Cathedral, which looks incredibly different in the daylight. We head for a much deserved beer in Polk Gulch, in a saloon that has to be the darkest bar I've ever walked into. Even after 5 minutes of my eyes adjusting, it's still difficult to make anything out. Revitalised, we jump back on a cable car to head over to the Theater District, and another bar. More beer/wine etc.

    Finally, we jump on one of the old-fashioned streetcars for a ride over to Fisherman's Wharf. We grab some pretty decent fish and chips, and find ourselves putting roots down in a little saloon not far from the wharf. We scare some other punters because of our frankly brilliant rendition of The Bare Necessities, and have a few drinks to grease the wheels. It's suddenly 5pm, and we need to start making tracks for the airport.

    We pick up our bags from Carlos' place, and jump in yet another Uber to head to SFO. We've managed to keep our Upper Class seats a surprise for Ant, but we're fairly sure he'll twig during the check-in/bag drop process. He doesn't - due to some quick thinking by Vicki. We assume he'll then realise when we head to the Virgin business lounge for a couple of hours. This time it's me with the quick thinking... Finally, we're boarding and the realisation hits. We settle into our comfy pods, and are immediately offered a champagne cocktail. By 23:45 Pacific time, we're all fed, and well watered. I collapse into a deep, restful sleep...    Read more

  • Tim's TravelsLas Vegas, Northern California
    Day 14

    Alco-traz

    October 14, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    We're up in decent time (no surprises etc etc) and headed down to Pier 33 for our ferry over to Alcatraz. I've seen a bunch of movies that the island stars in, and been excited to experience it first-hand.

    The first challenge we encounter is that there is no wine or beer served on the ferry OUT to Alcatraz - only on the return leg. My travelling companions threaten violence. We encounter some folks in the queue who are from Arizona, and who made their way up the street to get a Bloody Mary. We seethe. The ferry ride is fun. Karl has spread himself across the city today. We're promised slightly brighter conditions by the afternoon, but the thick, low lying cloud we're heading through suggests otherwise.

    Arriving onto the island, we immediately see the archaic structures of the prison. There's a guy called Bill Baker giving a little talk - he is one of the last remaining known inmates that's still alive. He's talking of his experiences, how scared he was, how he ended up here. We head up the alarmingly steep hill towards the cell blocks. They are stark to look at. Devoid of any creature comforts, tiny. I know prison isn't meant to be a cake walk, but this is horrifying. At one point, we come across the sensory deprivation cells - used for solitary confinement, and for the treatment of certain mental health conditions. Not a fun place to hang out. We read about the Native American occupation of the island some 6 years after the prison actually shut. It's a chastening way to spend time...

    We get back on the ferry, and are delighted to find that the bar is open. The return trip is only fifteen minutes, but that's long enough for us! Arriving back to Pier 33, we jump on a bus to head up into North Beach. We have sensational Cheesesteak sandwiches for lunch at Buster's. We walk through Chinatown, and see some stuff that really doesn't look like food being sold as food. We stop for cocktails, then shots, then more cocktails. We visit a bar made famous as a beat-era hangout for the likes of Kerouac and Ginsberg. Tired (pissed), we head back to the apartment for a rest, before heading out later.

    Suitably refreshed, we head to the Tonga Room, a Tiki bar with rain, a lagoon, and a thunderstorm. We have some rum cocktails that are stronger than is entirely necessary, and decide that we are ravenously hungry. We head to Miller's Rest, a cool pub/restaurant in Nob Hill (chortle), and eat literally everything. The food is so all encompassing that our drinking actually slows - probably no bad thing. We pour ourselves into a taxi, and are back home a little after 22:00, and ready for bed.    Read more

  • Tim's TravelsLas Vegas, Northern California
    Day 13

    A tale of two wharves - part 2

    October 13, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Refreshed, we head further down the wharf to catch the views of the bay, of the Golden Gate Bridge, and of the famous pier 39 sea-lions. None disappoint. We have a view of Alcatraz, but we'll save that for our visit tomorrow.

    The sea-lions are a lovely distraction. Vocal, boisterous, hugely graceful in the water and somewhat clumsy out of it. There are clearly some interesting social interactions happening here, and we spend a fun ten minutes watching these unfold.

    We head a few miles over to Crissy Field for views of the Golden Gate Bridge. It's pretty blustery on the beach, and we walk a ways further to the bridge. Karl is still with us, shrouding the very top of the GGB towers. We take some pictures, I'm sure none of which really represent the size and majesty of the bridge.

    We head inland from the beach towards the Presidio. There's a fountain with a sculpture of Yoda outside Lucasfilm's offices in the park. It's a bit of a trot, some of it uphill, and having visited the fountain, it's time for a mid-afternoon sharpener. We stop at a great sports bar called Final Final, where we encounter a cool bartender, a bottle of Tuaca (which we previously thought only popular in Brighton), and the drinks we need to prep us for the next part of our day.

    We grab a bus back towards Fisherman's Wharf, only to find a monumental queue to take the cable-car back over to the financial district. A quick conflab, and we decide to find a bar instead, and form a new plan. Queues can do one. Conflab completed, we grab another bus back over to the city centre, wander around a little, before finding a very cool, speak-easy style cocktail bar that has a happy hour in full flow. It would be rude not to?

    It's approaching 17:30, and we're all pretty tuckered. We grab an Uber back to our apartment, and order some insanely good Chinese roast duck and roast pork from Go Duck Yourself. It's maybe 20:00, and we're flagging. Ant heads to bed with a Tin Tin book for company, while I find myself close to falling asleep on the sofa while reading my book. I'm tucked up in bed and fast asleep by 21:30, and I doubt Vicki is far behind me...    Read more

  • Tim's TravelsLas Vegas, Northern California
    3
    Day 13

    A tale of two wharves - part 1

    October 13, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Yes, we're awake early. And yes, it's cold.

    Karl is lingering, and we're due a chilly morning. We head out for breakfast near the house we're staying in, and are hit by a tsunami of food - so much that Ant's and Vicki's breakfasts are each served on two plates. Mine is a little more abstemious, but still sizeable. We roll ourselves out of the diner, and head on towards the city centre, taking a tram to the Ferry Building, which offers stunning views of the Bay Bridge, and the bay over to Oakland. We stop at the Vaillancourt Fountain outside the Ferry Building. The water is a vivid green, which, it transpires, is the result of a dye in the water. They change colours regularly throughout the year. The Embarcadero square is also a particular hotspot for the many, many homeless folks of San Francisco, with one sleeping peacefully in the fountain. It's impossible not to notice just how sizeable San Francisco's homeless population has become.

    It's rapidly approaching beer o'clock, so we stop for a late morning livener in the financial district. Ant and I find an apple and hibiscus cider which is delicious.

    Happily, when we emerge from the Royal Exchange, the sun has broken through, and a lovely warmth is in the air. We head off on a lazy amble across the city towards Fisherman's Wharf. The wharf is actually pretty crowded. It feels like the first tourist crush we've experienced since Yosemite the previous weekend. Our 30 minute march deserves a reward, so we grab a seat at a bar on the wharf, and settle into an early afternoon pick-me-up.    Read more

  • Tim's TravelsLas Vegas, Northern California
    Day 12

    If you're going to San Francisco....

    October 12, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Waking in Willits is even colder than Sonoma. My phone reckons it's 6C, and the vapour I'm breathing out suggests this is fair. We've a long and fairly slow drive today - over to the coast, and South down the Pacific Coast Highway to San Francisco, with a few stops along the way throw in for good measure.

    We're on the road before 07:00, and I have to admit I'm a little disappointed by the presence of Karl - the name Californians have taken to using for the early morning fog and mist that sits in the valleys in this part of the world. It's ethereal and really quite startling, but I worry that it'll linger, and somewhat ruin the dream of driving down PCH1 in the glorious sunshine...

    We stop in Fort Bragg, ostensibly to see the glass beach - a beach made entirely of smoothed glass from a nearby recycling location. As we exit the car, there are murmurs about the temperature, and we make it about a quarter of the way to the beach before we eject, heading back to the relative warmth of the car. We elect to grab some breakfast, and head further South, in the hope that we'll find the sun...

    We do not.

    The next 5 hours are a bit of a slog. Very twisty and sweeping roads alongside the rocky clifftops, a succession of places that we can't stop for a beer, and the continuing murky presence of Karl. At one point, the temperature hits a heady 13C. I'm genuinely a little sad that the elements have conspired against us, but I manage to put a moderately brave face on it.

    We stop for lunch in Bodega Bay, and grab a glass of wine to accompany an astoundingly good cup of clam chowder. Reinforced, we head onwards. Vicki snoozes in the back, whilst Ant and I take in the dramatic scenery. Around 14:00, something changes. Suddenly (and I do mean suddenly) the clouds break, and we're driving through bright, warm sunshine. As we drive alongside Tomales Bay, the view is glorious. Exactly what I'd dreamt of for this trip...

    It's not long before we find ourselves heading over the Golden Gate Bridge, which is a truly iconic experience. We meander through the heavy San Franciscan traffic, and arrive at our apartment around 15:30. It's been a long but interesting drive...

    After I've dropped the rental car back, we make some evening plans - to head down into the Mission District, grab a coupla drinks and some food. Our house is basically right at the top of Potrero Hill - there's nowhere to go but down, and we scuttle our way to a bar called Lost Resort, where a v cool bartender make us some v strong cocktails. We wobble on to our next pit stop at True Laurel, where another v cool bartender makes us some more v strong cocktails. Giddy with excitement (i.e. pissed) we meander down to Valencia Street right in the heart of the Mission District, and which is lined with great and funky little places to eat. We park at Bao, and enjoy some top notch dim-sum. The pork soup dumplings are staggeringly good.

    None of us are in the right frame of mind / state of physical well-being to attempt the mountain climb back to the apartment, so we jump in an uber, and are tucked up in bed not long after 22:00...    Read more

  • Tim's TravelsLas Vegas, Northern California
    Day 11

    Watcha talking about, Willits?

    October 11, 2022 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    It's fucking FREEZING when we wake up for our second morning in Sonoma. The forecast promises 30C later, but right now, it's around 6C. I'm awake just before 06:00, so write yesterday's journal, and try and have a quiet coffee without waking Vicks and Ant.

    We plan to leave in decent time, and we're on the road by 09:30. First up is a stop at the Old Faithful Geyser. Arriving, the dude at the front desk tell us that the geyser has recently been erupting every 2 - 2 1/2 hours. Not the most promising of starts. He follows up by saying he's been at his desk for 2 hours, and nothing yet, so we might just be in luck. We sit in the warming sun and wait. After barely ten minutes, we're rewarded with an eruption that lasts maybe 10 minutes. There's a whiff of sulphur in the air, which Ant and Vicki both claim is NOT associated with them. There's also the most insane rainbow where the geyser spray settles. We couldn't have got luckier with timing....

    We head further up the road to Kelseyville, where we all feel an urgent need for beer o'clock. We stop at the Brick Tavern - population 2. It's not quite the friendly, saloon of Thompson's Corner, but it does the job. The JD and coke is probably more than I should have whilst driving...

    Our next stop is a buffalo ranch, where we pick up some steaks for the BBQ later. As we head on towards Willits, I propose an afternoon of relax, as opposed to the two hour round trip to the coast. My travelling partners literally and figuratively bite off my hand. We stop into Willits for lunch at a brilliant sandwich café called the Loose Caboose - Reuben dips for me and Ant, and a bacon and avocado concoction for Vicki. They are BRILLIANT. We head to our accommodation - a proper cabin in the woods. It's rustic - and Vicki is not delighted...

    We head down into town again to grab groceries, and then chill out at the cabin for the afternoon. The bison steaks are astonishingly good. Kind of like venison, in that it's a red meat flavour, but with less of the natural fat of beef. I open the disgracefully expensive Pinot Noir that I bought yesterday at Patz and Hall to accompany our dinner, and we settle down to watch Raiders of the Lost Ark. The temperature is falling ,and I suspect we're all going to be fucking freezing in the morning.    Read more

  • Tim's TravelsLas Vegas, Northern California
    2
    Day 10

    We all need an afternoon Napa...

    October 10, 2022 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    We're up in good time after yet another restful night's sleep. It is COLD. The outside temp is around 8C, which is a bit of a culture shock after the past week. Our wine tour pick up is at 09:40, and it's still fairly fresh. We head off to our first winery, arriving at 10:00, and to be met by a cheeky Rosé for breakfast. Delish.

    This is Patz and Hall, top notch producer of (predominantly) Chardonnay and Pinot Noir still wines, along with a couple of sparklers for good measure. We spend the next 90 minutes trying 8 of their estate wines, loving most, adoring a couple. We limit our purchases to two bottles, as we're not planning to bring any home with us, and we've already got a fridge full back at the house. The surrounding scenery is stunning. Reminds me a lot of the Franschhoek valley, one of my very favourite places on the planet.

    We head off to an early lunch, regaled by our guide, Luke, with insider details of the different wineries we pass along the way. Fair to say that the Napa Valley is pretty much at saturation point now, with every conceivable square inch of plantable ground used for vines. We learn that it's a US holiday today, which explains some of the traffic. What used to be Columbus day, is now known as Indigenous day, a change made, according to Luke, because, "It turns out Columbus was a total asshole."

    We have an astonishingly good lunch at Farmstead in St Helena, a little village in the Napa Valley, and all suddenly feel like a little afternoon nap wouldn't be the worst thing in the world. We have more wine to drink though, so head off to Paraduxx - part of the Duckhorn family portfolio. Paraduxx is where they experiment with blended wines, using grapes from across their portfolio. A couple of traditional Bordeaux style blends, a very cool one that focuses on South American traditions, and an Aussie style Cabernet/Syrah option. We also get a little bonus tasting of their premium Merlot offering, which goes some way to changing my mind about the grape. We're also taken off for a mystery tour to see the concrete egg - something completely new to me, and apparently a way of ageing white wines without oak, but allowing them to oxidise a little (which stainless steel tanks don't allow). Our host, Steph, is a joy, and regales us with information and stories in equal measure. She keeps our glasses well topped up as well... The wines are great. Perhaps not quite the heady heights of Patz and Hall's, but none too shabby. The Viognier/Chardonnay blend we try IS outstanding, and I make sure to grab a bottle on our way out.

    We're in the heat of the afternoon, and fair to say flagging just a touch. We have one more winery to visit though - Gundlach Bundschu. We decide unilaterally that this 'probably' means Good Luck Bum Face. We don't ask at the winery, just in case. This is set up in the hills above the Sonoma Valley, and is a slightly more casual and laid back affair. Ant and Vick decide cheese is needed to help sustain them, and I don't argue. The wines are a bit more of a mixed bag. The Pinot Noir a little disappointing, the Merlot a touch bland, but the Cabernet is great, and the Chardonnay up there with the best we've tried on our tour. Our host shares that our next destination on our roadtrip is renowned for its pot farms. Interesting...

    Luke drives us the short trip back to our house, and we pour ourselves out of the car. It's around 18:00, and we're trying to decide if we should head out for a bite, or just relax at the house. We opt for the latter, watch a movie, and are all headed for bed by 21:00.

    ROCK. AND. ROLL.    Read more

  • Tim's TravelsLas Vegas, Northern California
    1
    11111111111111111
    Day 9

    From here, to there

    October 9, 2022 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Once again, we're all up in good time after a good night's rest. Even though Mariposa is still at some 700m elevation, the early morning sun is warm, and I sit in the garden with a coffee for a while, letting the rays of the sun help wake me.

    Today's a bit of a transition day - heading from the mountains to the coast, and to Sonoma. It's also the day that will include the only segment of freeway/Interstate driving, which I've tried to avoid as much as possible during our trip.

    Our first pit-stop is at the Castle Air Museum. Castle used to be a US Air Force base, but was closed in 1995 following the end of the Cold War. Between the mid 1950s and the 90s, it was home to a bomber wing of B52 Stratofortresses, the workhorses of the USAF Strategic Air Command, and which were responsible for the majority of the 7.5m tons of bombs dropped on Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia between 1965 and 1975.

    These days, Castle is a museum, featuring military aircraft of the past 75 years. It's a treat, and real eye opener to wander around the open air exhibits. The scale of some of the aircraft is staggering. After a fun hour wombling around, the sun starts to get a little warm, so we get back on the road to our next destination. The majority of this leg of our journey is on the Freeway, and we're all bored out of our tiny little minds. We blow past several towns, without the faintest idea of what kind of town they are. I'm assured that the choice to travel by smaller roads wherever possible is the right one, even if it adds time to the journey.

    We're collectively delighted that lunch isn't the clusterfuck that it was yesterday. We're a little earlier to our reservation in Lodi, but are quickly seated, and enjoy a very laid back brunch type affair, with some very tasty local wines. The restaurant is in a lovely and peaceful setting in Lodi, attached to a wine tasting centre for local wines. Our lunch is backed by a guy with an acoustic guitar doing passable covers of Police, Elton John, The Clash etc etc.

    Sated, we get back on the road, and head towards wine country. At one point, Google Maps takes us on a slightly detour, due to my route plan of avoiding the Interstate. We're pleased that it does as it takes us past a highly random saloon bar in the middle of nowhere (or Cordelia, if you prefer). We stop for a sharpener, and are met with a bar full of friendly locals, a ceiling covered in bras, and some of the strongest mixed drinks known to man or woman. These kind of out of the way bars are amongst my favourite things about travelling in the US. They're stacked with character and characters, and are almost always a smiling and happy place to rest.

    We've got a final 45 minute shoot down to Sonoma, and we're soon passing field upon field of vines. We drive past the hill that was used as the wallpaper for Windows XP, and quickly arrive into Sonoma, a small city of 10,000 that is a Mecca for wine lovers. Nearby Napa is bigger, and perhaps more famous, but Sonoma is home to some of the finest Californian wine producers around.

    For dinner, we head out to a brilliant Portuguese tapas restaurant. Salt cod cakes, crab pies, amazing braised pork, a stunning goat stew. Massively tasty, and a great little place to hang out.

    By 22:00, we're all winding down towards sleep. We're off on a full day's wine tasting tour tomorrow, and our chariot arrives at 09:30 to pick us up.

    Zzzzzzzzz.....    Read more

  • Tim's TravelsLas Vegas, Northern California
    Day 8

    The Legend of Yosemite Sam...

    October 8, 2022 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    The leaving of Mammoth Lakes is much easier than the arriving to it.

    We're all up and about early - a result of a fairly sedate evening, and relatively early night, after such a long day yesterday. The view as the sun rises over the Sierra Nevada mountains is beautiful, and I'm sure my phone pics of it don't do it justice. We're due to have a fairly early lunch, so all decide to skip breakfast, and hit the road a little earlier than planned. The Juniper Springs resort we're staying at is lovely to look at in the early morning light, and likewise the town of Mammoth. I'm sure during ski season, it's a brilliant place to hang out...

    We get back onto my new favourite road (Route 395) and head North, rising from our current altitude of 8,000 to a ceiling of very nearly 10,000. Ant and I are both feeling the altitude a little bit - breathlessness for us both, a slight light-headedness for him (which he enjoys...) and a slight queasiness for me (which I do not). At our first stop, a sack of thick chunks of jerky is purchased, and when offered to me, it rather turns my stomach....

    Leaving the 395 behind, we head into the Tioga pass, the highest paved road in California, and which will take us deep into Yosemite National Park. I've been looking forward to this day SO much. I don't think it's a stretch to say that Yosemite is widely considered one of the most beautiful places on the planet. As soon as we're onto route 120, it becomes clear why. The scenery is breathtaking. Again, I doubt my phone pics really give a sense of the majesty and sheer scale of what we're seeing. We stop regularly as our path winds slowly through the park - a breathtaking rock escarpment here, an astonishing valley view there...

    We're aiming for the Ahwahnee Hotel for lunch at 12:45. I've been ultra excited about this - as I've managed to keep it a surprise from Ant and Vicks. The hotel was used extensively as a set for filming of the Shining. The scenes where Jack Nicholson is at his typewriter? All at the Ahwahnee... We arrive, and - for fuck's sake. There's literally nowhere to park. After driving around aimlessly for fifteen minutes, I deposit Vicki and Ant to let them at least know we're approximately nearby for our lunch reservation, and I keep hunting for a space. Another fifteen minutes pass without joy (well, not for me - others manage to turn up and grab a space before me. The fucking impudence...) and Vicki comes back out to tell me that the restaurant is in disarray. They have 'started late' today - which where I come from is code for 'the chef turned up late.' Our 12:45 lunch booking will be at least an hour late, possibly more... I tell Vicks that she and Ant should finish their drinks and we'll head off to find lunch somewhere else. Another 10 minutes pass, and I FINALLY manage to snag a space. Heading indoors, I'm greeted by my travelling brethren who have (contra to my instructions) secured me an ice cold beer. It is incredibly welcome... We have a little wander around the hotel, and it's v cool to see the parts that were used for filming. We then enquire about our table, and are told that the hotel staff tried to contact us to let us know the table was ready, but because we didn't reply (by standing right next to them!?) our table has been given away. I sense this conversation could end very, very badly, so we pile back in the car, and head south to Wawona.

    It's pushing 14:30 by the time we arrive into Wawona, which is really just a gas station, general store, and small hotel. We enquire at the hotel about the possibility of lunch, but are told that service ended at 14:00. Looking increasingly desperate, we're directed to the general store, where we pick up a few sandwiches.

    Our next pit stop was due to be the Sequoia Groves, a few miles south of Wawona. When we arrive, there's a loooooong queue in the baking hot sunshine for the shuttle bus to the groves. Sensing mutiny, I suggest we get back on the road, and head straight for our overnight stop in Mariposa. We arrive by 16:00, to an amazing little house right off Main Street. A wickedly strong G+T later, and we've all relaxed. We head out to one of the local hostelries I've read good things about, and have a fab early dinner in a very cool little restaurant. By 22:00, we're all fixing for bed again, and it's another early-ish night for us all...    Read more

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