Italy

July - August 2022
I‘m doin a solo unsupported roadtrip by bike thru italy Read more
  • 28footprints
  • 3countries
  • 30days
  • 235photos
  • 2videos
  • 4.1kkilometers
  • Day 1

    I.

    July 23, 2022 in Germany ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    arrived at the hotel where I‘m stayin for the night for a family wedding party!
    Valentin was pullin because I had something really big in mind the following day. We had more than 1.5hrs of rain which was refreshing!

    https://strava.app.link/nGGDuKQEWrb
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  • Day 2

    II.

    July 24, 2022 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    the most grueling bike ride of my life ended with only one puncture and a lovely coffeedate in Innsbruck

    It all started well with only 20mins of delay, Valentin did a great leadout til km 48. In Austria the pace settled and i found a good rhythm layering the first brick if what was yet to come. I found two german Gravelers who were bikepacking as well and we had some nice chats until I followed them on a gravel part of the „great“ Inn-valley bikepath..
    it was with 240kms to go that fate decided I should have my first puncture of the trip. The guys helped me because I had pump and adapter problems, actually without them I wouldn’t have suffered AND repaired the puncture 😅
    After leaving them behind gratefully, I sat down in lovely Innsbruck for having a Pizza in a nice place. It was that moment that a internet-friend of mine decided to finally answer my text I sent a werk before.. Well, we met up and it was absolutely lovely! I told her I had to leave at half past 2 to make it to Trento in daylight but when we met (for the first time), it wouldn’t matter.
    Living in Caldaro and roadbiking as well she had awesome tips for my upcoming trip, which made me forget how wonderful that moment was. After she left to not further interfere with my ETA, I just went fully en route to Trento. Considering I woke up at 7 to leave at 8 (which was 8:23) after just 4hrs of sleep because of that real good wedding party, leaving Innsbruck at km 140 of 320 at 15:23 was quite self-injuring but worth it!
    Adorably easy it felt to climb up Brennero because of the change of rhythm and the beautiful girl in mind.
    Descending from the top was pure joy, the flat residual 120km were getting more and more of a grind..
    After just 20mins of mainly water-stops and a total of 394 active mins and 322.46 kms I arrived at an old friend of mine who studies in Trento.
    I was so done there was no hunger in mind and nothing but sleep.

    https://strava.app.link/KPAmVyLWXrb
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  • Day 3

    restday

    July 25, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    had a chill day out with friends, visited lago di tenno and riva del garda

    total recovery today. I was hot all night long but not because of fever but because of the non-stop heating of my body. 5 times of cold leg packing helped getting some sleep..
    then we had a chill morning with a „dolce far niente“-mindset , visited lago di tenno and riva dg and had a very lovely dinner at the lakeshore.
    Then I gained some sleep again
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  • Day 4

    chillin out in Trento

    July 26, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    more of dolce far niente

    we decided to have carbonara in the evening - made by me of course
    So we went for a liscio (espresso), guanciale shopping and tryin the best gelateria in town - worth it! violet and mediterranea was my take, both amazing!

    then we had antipasti (con olive taggiasche (soo good)), aperitivo e il carbonara
    Everything took its time - which was good - and we went back to bed after a cocktail in dasq trento, which was a nice standard
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  • Day 5

    more rest

    July 27, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    underestimated the power of fatigue

    took another day off doin literally nothing; folce far niente baby!
    gettin up at 2pm, visiting lago di garda at 6 to miss the last ferry, havin sprizz, caffé and later a pinot grigio to pair with male deeptalks about sad topics

    (at noon I made some sourdough ciabatta from dehydrated starter I brought with me, they were delish)
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  • Day 6

    headstart

    July 28, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    I went on my own and by that started my trip

    first things first I tried an ophthalmologist just two blocks away, but he wasn’t there. what for?! An insect has flown in my right eye and left a small piece which wouldn’t move and sat right there beneath my cornea on the outer eyeball. It caused minor vision problems and discomfort when blinking as well as a accumulation of dried up tear fluid every night.
    Things like that just come and somehow don’t go, at first glance it’s not that dangerous but the moment I really wasn’t able to remove it by myself told me a lot of arising problems. I didn’t take it that seriously but then realized that a real specialist would have to remove it to not mess with my sight. In Italy there‘s only 1 such doctor per 8.000 inhabitants but which of them would remove my problem instantly when showing up? That question was to accompany a lil bit longer.

    So I said goodbye to my friends and rode to the next hospital with a emergency unit in place
    I left after a few minutes because there was many people and nothin was movin

    avanti a destinazione lago di garda

    Not as I thought but bein there with the car before didn‘t take away that adventurous character I tried and try to achieve every time I arrive with a bike at a destination

    after some bike and garda bike station problems I arrived in Brescia, nice town but somehow not seemed worth living there
    Had a nice chat with a local fruit vendor, my italian skills (at least understanding) are improving perfectly.

    After some nice Culurgiones I visited the poly-ambulance
    A nice nurse told me the Ophthalmologist is only present at daytime but I could have a bed and let the bike in a hallway at the emergency unit
    I kindly denied but felt the indecisiveness in me. After I went back to my bike which was parked right where ambulances would deliver patients (cctv‘ed) I went back inside to tell her I changed my mind because she really tried to look inside of me and offered me shelter shower and a bed which I didn’t have before
    Well-she left and only colleagues of her were present; situation was awkward so I left. I went for that range-extender (1hr extra of riding in the evening to boost total distance) but in the night already. I made it to desenzano where I thought to get shelter underneath some trees. The weather changed and caused some real problems there…
    First I thought I would be ok sleepin just out in the green with only a towel and possibly a jacket. I totally forgot my need of water to shower and wash etc.
    I gathered my now relatively wet things and checked into the next 24/7 hotel (at 0:30) , washed them and went to bed
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  • Day 7

    ciao garda

    July 29, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    hottest day yet

    after too little sleep I left the more german than italian area at lago di garda for good
    I said arrivederci to garda at peschiera to just meet 20+ nationalities again in Verona which I visted as well. I‘ve been there before but I really have bad memories about being there but in the end it was a great dejà-vu with the old town.
    10km out I stopped at a supermarket for bibite freddo but they didn’t have any; a guy workin at the store said he told management many times to have cooled beverages at temperatures at nearly 40° but they didn’t concurr..
    He suggested to get ice instead and since then I used the „trick“
    I then resumed and visited Vicenza, a very nice and green city. It was there when I discovered the insect has finally left my eye on it’s own (after 5 days). Before arriving at my b&b there were 2 other very special old towns called castelfranco veneto and citadella. Somehow the names on the map called on me to pay em a quick visit; worth it! Great ancient buildings and waterways there.
    The b&b was great, a caring host con lora famiglia tutta in casa. Good to recover and write some fp ;)
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  • Day 8

    venice baby

    July 30, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    another great day of big cities to visit incoming

    after a few kilometers there was Treviso to visit and hence kinda no hotel or b&b got portafilters in use I ordered un caffé in Treviso.
    No tourist in sight, I felt like an italian guy drinkin italian espresso for italian prices. Treviso is also surrounded by a river and got a nice old town as well, full of character

    next stop: venice baby
    After some 40ks in the arising heat (hitting 31°+ before 10am everyday) I found myself on a loong bridge in the ocean with a small town in sight, gettin bigger. Venice was a blast even I didn’t know that carry, pushing and riding a bike is forbidden for non-residents. The elderly of the residents made that really clear, in italian english and even german. I wasn’t sure what to make of it and went on. I thought riding was forbidden, what I‘m getting. Just prior to piazza san marco, polizia locale stopped my kindly an explained that I was in the wrong and that they have been called. At that moment I didn’t quite understand - when they saw me, I only pushed it. After ‚documenti‘ and paperwork they explained how and when I have to pay the 100€ fine. It sparked some ongoing controversies in my mind because at the moment of visiting I didn’t feel like doin some illegal stuff. But I also hate tourist not paying respect to what they visit. Never before I thought about it just because I didn’t know. Frankly, I don’t even know now what I‘ld have done to avoid that incident but visiting Venice. It came clear that the police enforces (in my mind) righteous rules of the city rightfully.
    Nevertheless I‘m thinking about not paying at all because I didn’t find it disrespectful when considering what I am doing here. I also find that a hundred euros is way too much deterrence for an awfully dumb idea when thinking about the 1000 bridges in place. Whatever - I‘ll never do it again and will try to pay more attention to such things.
    Whilst returning to the bridge I also had the first stranger-smalltalk whit a Canadian waiting for his wife and daughter to return from shopping; after I saw them returning it all made sense😅 he was nice and paid me a birra which we enjoyed talking about travel, the city’s regulations, life and my biketrip

    next city: padova
    I didn’t do a lot of research before the trip because it would have been a massive amount of gathering and then sorting information about hows and whens when I‘ve even let the dice decide my whereabouts.
    consequently I‘ve let myself inspire of apple explore maps and me literally guessing which turn to take to see adorable things. So padova is the biggest and most unexplored city by me yet.

    I then booked a kinda shady b‘nob‘ in Ferrara which was an exciting town to visit. I figured it has to be a student’s city because of the demographics of people I stumbled across. The city is a blast! Never before I‘ve seen such a uniform and lovely looking old town. Everything, I mean everything- was made of red bricks and a huge castello was lit in the night. I had a great dinner and a good drink in a very rushing bar. People were all over the place - inside’n‘out -and the 4 barkeepers tried to catch up with the incoming orders.

    buona notte
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  • Day 9

    spacchetti bolognese

    July 31, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    bike problems to start the sweat (and day)

    before I left Ferrara I wanted to check on my steerer bearings because they were kinda crooked and not working properly
    It turned out that the outer ring broke multiple times (which happened before) and because of inconsiderate re-installation of myself after putting AirTags inside the frame the inner ring wasn’t flush with the outer ring. What could’ve turned out as a total desaster was actually fine, it was just a lil‘ of a mess to reassemble the broken parts and of course horrible to discover😂
    problems fixed, supermarket stop after 30k for breakfast and after 50k visiting bologna.
    Bologna - hosting the oldest continouusly running University is a beautiful town located in the heart of the also governed by Emilia–Romagna on the southern end of the Po-delta
    architecturally like Ferrara but bigger, more lively and somehow touristically attracted as well 🤓
    Of course I tried Ragú in an old-style tavern-like looking restaurant, which was good.
    For the first time of my trip I saw a group of italian cyclists, before I went direzzione Imola, the former UCI WC-host, which features a smaller but same style old town as well. It was gettin hotter and hotter and 2kgs of ice cooles my neck as I was heading to San Marino. I found a cheap Hostel there where I arrived after some very grueling inclines which featured more than 20% when saying 10%.
    Btw - did I mention I‘m riding on my big ring all day? 5 weeks ago my front derailleur malfunctioned and is now inactive after a few minutes of being in the small ring. I didn’t quite get a solution there because the actual problem seemed very electric and small
    whatever, I arrived at the very shady Hostel greeted by a weird host, who was getting angry at me for not wanting to lock my 14k bike outside. But he eventually talked me over and so I went for that awesome cable car to the top of San Marino. Awesome how that felt! In the dusk to arrive at that special location - that venice on a fortress - was so special. I really enjoyed the most beautiful evening of my trip until then just to get back to the most unpleasant stay ever🤣
    but i slept good and nothin got stolen so 👍🏼
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  • Day 10

    mimimi

    August 1, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    as mentioned above, sleep was good but the overall impression of the stay didn’t leave to anything else but leaving early

    In the night I chatted with Lena, a friend from Passau, who was in the area for vacation so we decided to meet up at Rimini. Convincing as she ever was, she persuaded me to stay a night and so we drank uno, due, quindici Spritz and dived right into the adriatic sea. As I looked back, it was the first time for me feeling salt water besides sweat since nearly 3 yrs!!
    I booked a nice hotel which was really cheap for what it offered and we (she has a smaller sister as well) went to a bottega and a restaurant they liked and I do so as well! being around with two great ladies made the all-so-good evening even better. After nice talks and food we decided not to party but sleep.
    That was the most chill day out since I left Trento, 20kms total what shall I say😜
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