Italy

July - August 2022
I‘m doin a solo unsupported roadtrip by bike thru italy Read more
  • 28footprints
  • 3countries
  • 30days
  • 235photos
  • 2videos
  • 4.1kkilometers
  • Day 11

    ciao ragazzi

    August 2, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    long day again

    The girls and me went out for a coffee again before they hit the playa and I went on. Ancona was my only drive-by visit with a final destination yet to determine. How come all haven cities are just ugly and dirty? There was a part of it which was lovely, the older town had a very distinctive layout of street inclines because of laying on a hill. It was there that I shot my best deal: 3,50€ for an affogato which turned out to be 4 different really good scoops of gelato and a doppio poured over it. From there I started the last third of the day’s trip to Civitanova Alta, a lovely hill-castle-town in the more rural Marche region. I arrived at the bnb which was great and a lovely host opened the gate for me. I decided to go out for dinner again and found myself in a kind of outdated interior but the food was great! olive fritte, a specialty of the region will stay on my mind🤘🏼Read more

  • Day 12

    arrivederci mamma

    August 3, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    did I mention my preferred stay is bnb?

    hotels can be cold sometimes, and hostels may be shady. When traveling alone but only traveling a always suggest bnbs.
    It was kinda hard to leave because the hostess was a master of her business and even though she spoke the least english, we had the most extensive chats.
    Same procedure as the day before, head to the only real drive-by-visit which was Pescara this time and deciding where to stay. It was a hard decision to kick Chieti out of the lists of towns I’m visiting but the accompanying elevation gain really wasn’t liked by me..
    So I searched for a further location and ended up near Lanciano, very rural and landscapewise absolutely beautiful in a hotel where I seriously wonder if there ever was another guest.
    Dinner again, great one, pasta fatto a mano in casa de Maria they said, I believed it. San Pellegrini 0,75l at 2€ is ok right;)
    right across the „street“ in the also beautiful hill-castle-like old town of Lanciano I stumbled across a fine cocktail bar and enjoyed myself and texted some fp for you guys!
    btw I am currently 1350km into the trip
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  • Day 13

    shortest transfer yet

    August 4, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    hot like usual

    I passed right through molise? felt like german Saarland, no stranger knows it nor that it belongs to germany. nevertheless I had the best caffé yet in the worst and shadiest places I‘ve had coffee😂
    But it’s made a good start in the day, where I was calm and relaxed about the upcoming kms.

    two cities to dbv (drive-by-visit): Vasto e Termoli

    Both located at the adriatic coast, Vasto is laying on the hillside of a 130m high hill and looks beautiful. Termoli is right down to sea, even kind of inside with beautiful castle-like architecture there. Starting in Molise, the pattern and kind of stones used for streets in old towns changed again. very interesting. Now it’s big cobblestones.

    after that Puglia bored with looong lands of nothing. Agriculture really means something here. All filled up with either dried fields of some cereal, wine and olives of course. A little while from the shore pomodori started to show up. First time in my life to see a real italian tomato field. Lovely! I even saw them harvesting and tried one myself. San Marzano. slightly sundried in the heat. OMG. delish. I‘ve had a lot of different kinds of fruits before that weren’t half as sweet. Globalization here we go
    Really meant sth to me, as I always wanna dig to the bottom of sth I’m interested in.

    btw I forgot to mention the hookers on the all-so trucker frequented highway. Starter kit: bottle of water, perfume, a garden chair and lets go (de luxe = parasols)
    Honestly I wasn’t sure what to make of it. At least my personal exploration was honest, pure and easy to understand.
    supply and demand - shall I say more

    lots of wind powerplants as it’s the flattest region of Italy accompanied me to my destination: San Severo
    B&B, small dinner, little live music and a glass of wine following

    buona notte a voi
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  • Day 14

    gargano

    August 5, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    today the hardest stage yet was planned

    I really didn’t know how my legs reacted to 204kms ft 2170m of el. gain in the heat and after what I did already
    In the end it turned out quite good but all the shifts in tempo were on on side really appreciated after all that boring and ass-soring riding in the flat and on the other side quite beneficial for cooling despite the uphill ones which weren’t that amusing.

    The Gargano, spur of the italian „boot“ is a beautifully mountainous area and national park in the north of puglia. It features lot of iconic cliffs diving right into the azzurro adriatica and a astonishing variety of plants.

    Nature was beautiful, Vieste and Peschici worth visiting, Trabucca da Mimi worth paying a visit.
    Unfortunately I didn’t spend time at the beach which sure would’ve been great as well.

    After 50k I realized I forgot/lost my only bottle.. After arriving in Foggia where I stayed for the night I luckily found a bikeshop.

    for dinner I chose the wrong restaurant, but it looked good from the outside an online.. a drink in a bar right beneath the bnb and good night. (their music was enjoyable in my room as well..)
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  • Day 15

    halleluja

    August 6, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    lately before leaving home, my dad was calling my trip a journey of a hero (a journey where the core achievement lays above and beyond)
    well today seemed to be the day with the most quests. I don’t even know where to start so let’s say in the morning
    caffé va bene, forgot to remove the sheets in the bnb I put there as a silencer but I slept good btw
    the first inconvenience was the bnb manager who I never spoke to or saw but texted on whatsapp telling me quite directly at 9:45 via text: „Check out must to done within hours 9.30“ I then blocked him and don’t even know if I paid or not😂 but yeah.
    starting the day on the bike with discussing with my mom what my great-aunt got wrong again and rolling the first kms
    I didn’t even realize I was riding uphill but I indeed was. when invading Troia (yes my course went straight through a town called like that) I sat down for a quick coffee and told the waiter when steppin by „un caffé affogato per favore“ 30mins of nothing. „arrivo“ another waitress hsouted to me. another 5mins later he came and asked what I wanted. So we discussed what they’re able to provide and then I ordered. Shakerato it should‘ve been. 10mins of nothing. 2mins after that I decided to leave but didn’t know what I left for. Imagine yourself on the most remote and rural place in the very heat of pugliese summer with bushfires here and there. I had a very very strange feeling about the atmosphere because on the one hand it was utterly peaceful and somehow beautiful but to an extent that felt frightening when considering the scorching heat up to 47°C.
    I said to myself I‘ld kill myself if I‘ld punctured. The route felt like a thing to master and I was respectful to it from the beginning. climbing went surprisingly well and I wasn’t even that slow going up nearly 1000m in kinda one go.
    after taking out my phone the hundredths time I missed a pothole and was like hey do you lose air or don’t you please!
    well.
    fixing a tire in that heat was like repairing a car in Sahara at zenith..
    I can’t even describe what I had to fix and bodge to get a solution and what seemed-minor problems brought me there.
    In the end I came up with a emergency solution: tying a knot in the tube. Did work a few rotations before it lost pressure but not til 0 but 2bar or so. way too low for 108kgs and that kind of streets and terrain

    I then looked for help (in the middle of nowhere and thought some peasant should have a pump) and found a house which looked promiscuous. I then tried to explained that I actually had a problem which didn’t look like it because of the 2bar
    After I managed that with hands, feet and google translate a friend of the guy I met first came out. He unpacked a new car tyre pump for 12V use and then I was only left explaining that I have an adapter with me.
    The other guy was watching and shortly after asked if I wanted a bicchiere di vino and I said si.
    I thanked them multiple times before I went on for the more than 100kms and 2000m of el gain left.
    As I was getting deeper and deeper into rural areas the quality of the streets heavily declined. At some streets with -20% and non distinguible surfaces called street I feared a lot.
    I even invented a new classification scale for street quality in Italy naming quite good a street where you potentially could avoid all potholes🤣

    the upcoming inclines were brutal. I once did more than 600W for 7kph at 45C
    I thought I was gonna burst
    I felt lost and wouldn’t know if it ever got better. water supply was also a topic and my mobile also couldn’t drain because I didn’t even book a stay for the night.
    Somehow I managed to pull me through that phase despite being quite focused, calm and goal-oriented. But the lil boy in me was screeeaming!
    Maybe that was the force working from that moment?
    My legs felt sore really quickly because doin that power outputs at no cooling and less than 50rpm really hurt

    somewhere after I decided to change the route because I was really doubting the total el gain would match the one komoot indicated. (In the end I had 1000m more despite changing the route)
    I then chose a strada statale and didn’t care about extra kms but diminishing el gain as well. The other qualities were street quality and navigability. good choice right there. I couldn’t even take the drastically changing nature around me - so tired I was.
    From dried up fields ft bushfires to beautifully green nature around the more mountainous area of campania where I went to. A shift in cultivation also fell in place. Didn’t see much wine, but a lil olives and arisingly more mandorle and nocciole.

    another thing I realized, the greenness had to mean something to the climate as well… at some point all my clothes were just a lil wet and I started to get that temperature slowly trickled but humidity more than doubled. I’m really not adapted to 40° AND 90% lets see what tomorrow brings.
    Rolling down later to Salerno was good, biking felt fun again.
    passing Mercato San Severino before approaching the bnb and shopping some beverages for lowering total costs.

    After the check-in his credit card device didn’t work first and then all my cards got declined and I wasn’t even able to make a bank transaction because my PhotoTan app somehow wasn’t activated (not good btw)
    suddenly when paying wirelessly with my iPhone it worked:)
    After having snacked twice since riding, I wasn’t even down for dinner anymore so I did some citystrolling around Salerno which is nice and went to a bar.
    good night
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  • Day 16

    cazzo

    August 7, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    beautiful start in the day, I knew it was a day to enjoy.

    Costiera Amalfitana is just amazing. Views were stunning, cars weren’t that fast, everything was just nice and I captured the moment so I had no interest in rushing. I couldn’t even take enough photos of the coast.. too beautiful

    after a quick stop to adjust my breakpads for even wear, I went into a lovely descent. Soon I realized there‘s changed something. So I stopped and evaluated the problem. I was losing air at front and my already broken lower headset bearing (yes I mean broken; outer ring) somehow got worse. I recompressed it and went on. after a tunnel the following cities were just awfully ugly and dirty and I wasn’t so happy anymore. In Torre del Greco, just some 10k from my destination Naples away, I punctured. Some piece of wire managed to punch through. I was angry but focused like before. Deep down I felt some miscomfort and was really lacking confidence. After hours of trying to fix it with the help of lots of other people there was no solution. An old man, knowing no thing about bikes, even brought me a bowl and some water to distinguish the holes; not even that was successful. He then brought me to the nearest stazione and gave me a ticket. I was happy and thanked him multiple times before the train took off to Napoli.
    Being sure now I would make it to my upfollowing reservation I wasn’t feeling great at all. Those multiple times of severe bad luck were held up in my stomach and let me think a loong time. I wasn’t really sure if I’m gonna make it to Rome where I already booked sth for the upcoming day. Keeping in mind that It‘ld be the longest transfer in italy for me (230k) I was very unsure of everything. There is no thing like „Stadler“ in italy and somehow they don’t care about bikes in bigger cities which is ironic because I actually had a feeling of safety about it because it’s a big city and they have to have everything right? This feeling of safety decreased after trying to look for help. Strava, Facebook, Instagram, Google maps.. hours of searching but in the end I asked a fellow bike rider in the night while I was trying to visit the city and not thinking about the problems for too long. He suggested a place which should have everything I need! I was thankful, patched my remaining tires and was gonna look for a pump (mine doesn’t work for that valve length and my adapter doesn’t work anymore)
    But I also had an adapter to car valves which came in more than handy for the second time in two days(!)

    good night and wish me luck..
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  • Day 17

    dolce vita roma

    August 8, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    what a day again…

    like mentioned before, first thing in the morning was to pump the patched tubes (their valves were too short for my pump, additionally the O-ring responsible for holding built up pressure wore down that much that it only works up to 3bar)
    So I went to the next small gas station where Google streetview let me recognize they’re having an water/air station as well. All good, breakfast and andiamo by bike to the small bikestore I figured out. It didn’t look like he‘ld have what I‘ld need because it was that small. But he got it, even a good price and so I went plunging myself into napoletian traffic-nervewracking, confidence-building and concentration-training it was.
    after hitting a small truck with my knuckles when passing and high-fiving a child whose car I passed at the right with like no space at all to just make us two smile there was only 200km left to rome. I then discovered some movement in my rearhub and wasn’t sure how it‘ld hold up so after talkin to a sram worker I was confident again about it holding up.
    Some 40ks later after re-pumping twice at local „gommistas“ (tire vendors) there was no way for my front tire to survive so I changed it at the next gommista.
    From that moment I was looking at things like that as a small quest, challenge or whatever you may call it. This „above and beyond“ call for action really changed my perspective about how to look at and then handle problems. I also had to think about Helmut Stadler who once replied to me: ‚we don’t have problems; we‘re offering solutions !‘ that really made me think

    Then I realized my original booking in Rome which also made me rush to rome in the first place got cancelled because they weren’t available for further hosting. So I searched for another one and I found one which closed reception at 8pm..

    All good, mood was up and focused; 140 to go.
    Gaeta looked like the most beautiful city on the „open“ coast I saw yet.
    some kilometers further up the road I reached the loong straight of Via Appia. I somehow felt like I‘ve heard of that before and from then on my 5th grade latin teacher wouldn’t stop talkin in my head😅
    Actually it’s been the longest straight I‘ve ever ridden or seen, very beautifully covered by pine trees, but somehow boring to ride😂

    At growing concerns about my steerer bearings and decreasing steerability I‘ve decided to stop and try to fix it at a fruit vending farm on the side of the road. I asked for a peach and got it for free, later also some watermelon which was foraged just some meters away.
    I then discovered a crack in my headtube right before I found out the outer ring of my lower steerer bearing now broke into 3 pieces…

    Being focused as before, I put the broken pieces back together and because there’s no space to expand, it kept its position and even worked better than before - man that was a feeling! Also the clamp-the-crack-through-lowering-the-stem hack worked fine.

    With all those problems fixed I felt wonderful and the last 15k‘s pushing harder again into Rome really revived me and filled me with joy.

    I was super happy having made it to Rome which felt like a real pre-destination.

    Check in went easy after I told the lady why I was late and then I enjoyed at least an hour of rental-e-bike touring through rome with stops for Pinsa, Carbonara and a drink.
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  • Day 18

    restare senza fine

    August 9, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    not really,

    It was a short night but I slept as long as I could. Then I went searching for the parts I wanted to buy before anything worsens too much. I went to a bearing store, communicating before was hard and so they only had one typ of which I asked for, the ones fitting my rear wheel. The lower steerer bearing only was available at a Trek bikestore, located at another end of the autostrada circumfering rome. In total I rode 51kms what I didn‘t wanna do and until now spent 60€ on my bike. Having bought/been gifted 3 80mm roadbike tires, 2 rw bearings (SKF), 1 st bearing, valve extensions, 2 patching kits, a barely used spare tire and a new (but not fitting) O-ring for my pump it sounds veery little.

    I was also not amused about how much time all of that took away from my only full day in Rome ever and only restday in a long time.

    A thing I learned is to ask for help regarding small things as well as you would ask for bigger things. It also felt great getting support from strangers, seemed like they received a „above and beyond“ call for action as well.

    The rest of the day I enjoyed Vatican City, Rome, a Piadina, bruschetta , All‘amatriciana, gelato again and a drink with colosseum views.
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  • Day 19

    bellissima

    August 10, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    what a day again!!

    leaving Roma with a smiling and a crying eye because I really felt the density of things happening/known to having happened here and was overwhelmed enough to stay another day but I‘ve decided against it. It really is a remarkable city with soo much still-existent buildings not to forget the holy see and the powerful institution governed by it. Think of their net worth for once..

    As I left, I never really got running but that didn’t matter because there was 200km with 2500m of el gain to go.
    Halfway through I stopped for affogato and mint-granita, my new favorite ho cycling-stop combination ft caffeine, sugars and freshness through lemon or sometimes mint.
    The area got lonelier and lonelier so it was also getting harder to keep going just as temperatures increased as well. I came across a beautiful lake where again mostly Italians went on vacation for and somehow I liked that places more.

    It kept getting harder as last minute navigating increased as - being in tuscany - strade bianche really happen more often than you think..

    So I went for a even shorter and flatter route to stumble across a destroyed bridge. luckily I was able to walk across the river-bed as it was dried out.
    Some 500m of climbing in the end to finish a hard and long day were kind a hard but absolutely rewarding because when I made it to the top I found myself in the most beautiful hill-town I’ve ever been where eventually at that exact day a wine fest was going on!
    I checked into my castle-like hotel which was decorated lovely and went out.
    to say the rest: 🥂🍝🍷🥘
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  • Day 20

    fill in title here

    August 11, 2022 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    after a good night’s sleep I‘ve rolled down the hill I climbed up the day before which actually is something very rewarding.
    The route I planned was rather flat and a dbv of Arrezzo, which hosts a beautiful castle-style city centre where I also ate some gnocchi and ossobucco.
    Then I contacted a guy via Warmshowers, an app a friend recommended to me which is a cyclist-to-cyclist hosting platform. Even though it‘s been very short notice, he offered me a bed and dinner for the upcoming night at Firenze. I was happy and rolled to town where I spent the afternoon rolling my bike through the city to visit, sightsee and try local dishes before arriving at Leonardo‘s appartment.
    At first I‘ve felt a bit unsure because that guy looked like just having crawled out if a cave.. Upstairs I met the other 4 guys he hosted, 2 couples of total cultural mixing. one afghan-born who met his girl in Montreal and now riding to Venice starting in Nice, a peruvian who met his St. Petersburg-girl on the internet wanting to gain italian citizenship because he’s got ancestors (italy is the only country that approves that way for gaining citizenship) and is now just hanging around while she is working remotely. While having dinner and getting to know each other it turned out Leonardo also hosted a third couple from Spain and he also speaks spanish and quite good but extremely bad pronunciated english.
    Falling to bed because I really needed more rest after the long ride the day before..
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