Our Way

Last night we stayed at a place called Airexe or, if you want to be a 'true blue' Galician, Eirexe - originally the county flag is thought to have consisted of the blue cross of St Andrew, one of the favourite local saints. We arrived through soft rain, past fields of lambs and goats at 4.30pm and were shown into our room (so warm and clean) to see our bags leaning against the wall - such an efficient service, and reassuring to know that my Spanish was ‘good enough’ too!

There’s not much going down in up-town Eirexe - Chris investigated whilst I was writing my blog. There are two guest houses, one of which we were staying in, and, across the road, a bar/restaurant that also accommodates overnight revellers, sorry, travellers. A small community of chickens lives behind our hotel, directly outside our bedroom window. All of this activity is located within a fifty metre radius, just before you hit the fields at the edge of the village. There is also a church, surrounded by at least ten houses, in a side street a few metres back down the hill, but it was closed! The bar is run by a married couple - you could tell by the way they related to each other, particularly in the morning when we went there for breakfast - orange juice, tostadas, and tea. Dinner the previous evening was dropped rather than served by senora, probably due to the weight of the portions. The melon and iberico (the anticipated light starter), consisted of a whole side of ham and half a large melon. Picture attached for proof. Oh, and vino tinto. Goes without saying really.

We decided to have an easy day today, just walking for the morning, which took us to a decent sized town (Palas de Rei) at the official end of the second stage. We booked ahead last night, on the internet, so worry free on the arrangements front. We thought we could get the blister sorted and do some washing. It has also been quite cold today, and heavy rain was forecast. We set out just before nine into a deserted landscape, serenaded by cuckoos (I have never heard so many in my life as I have heard here). It helps to stay in remote places because you are always a few steps ahead or behind other walkers, allowing peaceful progress. This was the posh bit of the route - gorgeous houses alongside brooks, with superior, sculpted grain stores, and palatial carports full of logs, and friendly handbag-dogs with tufty ears and fluffy, frou-frou tails, rather than the usual scowling Alsatian. We stopped for hot chocolate and coffee after 8km, at a cafe filled with over-managed Americans and their guide. By 11.30am we had completed the final 2km of our walk, and arrived at the bar attached to our hotel exactly one minute before our bags. Timing. Following difficulties accessing check-in (we were early) leading to a wander to find a farmacia for blister plasters, we made contact with the receptionist who showed us to our private rooms a few streets away. Again, so comfortable and clean - getting back to basics makes you really appreciate the simple luxuries. Lunch was tortilla and torta in a bar around the corner, followed by a trip to our first open church where we lit our candles and got another stamp in our Camino passports.

Today's Achievements:
1. Thoughtful conversations had, during easy walking
2. Washing all present and correct - neatly folded on the bedroom chair :)
3. Dinner planned in a bistro at the end of our street - not too far to meander homeRead more

Hot weather predicted, so we set off earlyish to avoid the heat - into the cool, bright chill of the morning. Hardly a soul down in the woods, or on the country lanes. Just the occasional dog barking “hello” or “get lost pilgrim”- the occasional scent of orange blossom - the cottage gardens with semi-detached vegetable patches blending into the fields - a vivid blue sky over the plantations of eucalyptus, clearing the senses.

A cafe stop at a crossroads, for tea, coffee, and a couple of chunks of ring cake that tasted like madeleines gritted with sugar. WhatsApping. Sitting outside under the trees as the traffic passed.

A brief stop at a passport stamp stall, in its own special shelter, the table decorated with spiritual books, and an incense burner under a clam shell. We took a photo for a German lady who had been walking the route since April, and she did the same for us, before parting ways into yet more eucalyptus - “auf weidersehn” and “buen Camino”.

A little close-up with a beautiful white horse that was seducing passing pilgrims with its long eyelashes, and velvet grey muzzle, and we were almost done for the day, ’there’ being ‘Pedrouzo’ with its cockerel in a football scarf on a plinth, outside the town hall! Just perfectly timed to check in to our albergue, have a quick lie down and then head out for lunch in a restaurant looking out over the Galician valley below. Paella (surf and turf), and a small beer of course.Read more