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Camino
  • Sarah Naylor

Camino

52-päiväinen seikkaillu — Sarah Lue lisää
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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoMatkaaja
    1

    Carrion de los Condes to Terradillos

    2. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    We knew today was going to be one of our more challenging days so we were up early having breakfast at 6 am of the usual toast coffee and orange juice. We had dined at the same cafe last night and the boys and I had delicious ribs and salad and Jane had trout, as you do in Spain! The trout was the winner and much nicer then the salmon we had had the night before . It could even have been a trout caught on the Hinemaia.
    So off we set in the dark out of Carrion and again the moon was brightly lighting up the beautiful old buildings. We knew there were no toilets or villages for 17 km so on we walked through what our guide book describes as a somewhat featureless landscape. The morning was cool though and the path was really soft underneath the feet which makes a difference!
    I was mainly scouting for a good place to have a bush wee but not easy with endlessly ploughed fields and few shrubs or trees.
    After 10 km or so we came across a food truck which was a great sight so coffees and freshly squeezed orange juice were had. The guy had a great business going literally in the middle of nowhere.
    The sun was slowly rising and it again was a blue cloudless day.
    Finally after 17 km we walked into a sleepy old village with a very nice cafe and a toilet! Our feet by now were getting pretty hot and tired and a little bit of attention was given to one of the members of the team of eight!
    The day was getting hotter and hotter so it was basically crack on and get over ourselves. The saying of " my feet are killing me" took on a new meaning.
    Finally after it seemed endless walking ( trudging) we rested on the foot path of another dusty hot town and 2 km later we came across an oasis of green and the alburgue/ hostel of Lostemparilios , quite modern but cool and clean. We couldn't get under the shade of the deep verandah with cold beers soon enough.
    Luckily this was about 1.30 pm so lots of relax and siesta time ahead.
    This hostel is out on its own but there seem to be lots of our fellow pilgrims here so no doubt lots of chat tonight and hopefully a tasty meal.
    Last night's pilgrim meal was 14 euro pp and we got a 3 course meal and half a bottle of wine pp. Pretty good value and the garlic soup was being served. All were happy.
    Today was one of our more challenging days and tomorrow is a slightly easier day of 23 km.
    Our young Aussie friend tells us that it's going to drop a few degrees tomorrow. Let's hope!    Lue lisää

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoMatkaaja
    2

    Toradillos to Bercianos

    3. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Due to technological difficulties somewhere in Spain I couldn't send my blog from my tablet so rewriting on my phone.
    Anyway today has been a great day with an early start of 630 am and a walk of 24 km.
    It was going to be a hot day so before 8 am we had walked about 7 km.
    Desperate for breakfast we came along by accident a delightful cafe in Sabln Nicholas . Full of memorabilia and a gorgeous old piano we had our coffee and croissants! The coffe was great
    On we walked to Sahagun which is quite a special place as it marks the half way point if the Camino! Take a bow our team if eight.
    Lovely town with lots if churches and monuments to people we will never know!
    But it was pretty and the coffees again were good.
    On we walked and the temperatures rose but luckily we had a lot of shade from old old trees. After 23 km we came across Bercianos. A sleepy little town with its crumbly buildings but I have to say we have had such a fun night.
    After our siesta we wandered the village. Wine was being pressed and a bottle of fresh grape juice given to us. Then a look at the local potanque competition.
    To end the evening we had dinner with a Dutch man called Toon . He was turning 70 and we were all in tears as he told us of his wife's death at 42 of cancer. Needless to say we had birthdday songs and comforted him. I guess that is the true magic of the Camino, not just the scenery but the characters we meet and we are sharing the same experiences.
    As I wrote this Brian is chatting to yet another pilgrim and the cafe humming.
    Time for bed    Lue lisää

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoMatkaaja
    213

    Mansilla to Leon

    4. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    We are now in beautiful Leon and it seems such a change from the sleepy towns we have been in on the Meseta and we are enjoying the atmosphere.
    We had breakfast this morning in a cafe in Mansilla with quite an eclectic group of locals. It was amusing to see a group of men having some liqueur with their coffee , and then a tiny elderly woman come in and have a glass of beer. This was all before 8am!
    Last night we has a great walk around the old roman walls of Mansilla glowing the evening sun. We had a good pilgrim meal and slept well in the quiet town.
    I fear not a quiet night here as there is a festival on and we are right in the middle of town by the stunning gothic Cathedral which is a total standout with beautiful stained glass windows .After arriving in Leon and enjoying strolling through the twisting streets we had
    coffee in the main square and then a self guided tour through the Cathedral.
    The shops are very chic as is the architecture. Late lunch in the sun and a tour on a tourist tram around the main spots of Leon.
    It was so nice not to walk and could have sat on the tram all afternoon!
    Now it's siesta time and we are very much looking forward to meeting Vanessa Fiona Connor and Tim who have traveled all the way from Dublin to see us. Fun times ahead. We realise the All Blacks play tonight but I don't think many people in Leon will be watching!
    As I write this there is womans wrestling in the square! Brian of course has been down to have a look.    Lue lisää

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoMatkaaja

    Bercianos to Mansilla

    4. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We awoke in surprisingly good health after a night of birthday celebrations for our Dutch friend Toon.
    Jane and I actually had to return a bottle of vino back to the bar as there was no way we were going to drink it. We did laugh as our friendly bar man who just put a cork in it and put it back on the shelf!
    We were all in good spirits as we set off an a 27km walk in yet another dark cool morning. The moon is dwindling in size so the mornings seem darker and of course the days are getting shorter.
    Today's walk was long and a tad tedious but the endless views of ploughed red dirt and dying sun flowers have some charm. We now can see the hills and mountains of Galicia and in the distance we could see Leon where we will be tomorrow.
    There were the usual chats and laughs along the way but sadly Lee realised he had left his beloved hat behind. He was very fond of his hat but Brian had a cap he could lend so on we marched.
    Coffee and a very filling breakfast came at about 10 km . A great big potato pancake/ omelet filled with ham and cheese. That certainly revived us for a long walk until the next stop 12 km away. Luckily there were beautiful plane trees and oaks to shade us partially and nice rest areas. The trees are starting to turn.
    Podcasts music and books though were definitely the order for the latter half of the day.
    Another stop in a tiny village for coffee's and then the last killer five to crack on with.
    It's always such relief when the town of your destination comes into view and then collapsing into the cool oasis of the hotel lobby.
    After booking in we went next door to a wonderful garden bar enjoying bread chorizo and cheese washed down with cold beers.
    Another day ticked off. Our 19th day of walking and 21st day on the trail.
    In the garden bar were a group of Spanish men having wine bread and cheese like us. We were not sure if they were Pilgrim or locals but they started singing Spanish folk songs to which Brian and Lee responded with Pokarekareana which they loved.
    Then it was siesta time.
    Apparently we walked today on the longest Roman road in Spain and we followed in the footsteps of Emporor Augustus!
    Mansilla is yet to be explored but has a medieval look and is like the Feilding of NZ , known for its livestock market.
    Wifi is dodgy here but hope I can put on the musical videos.
    Tomorrow we head to Leon and will be meet up with some of the Irish family and then brother Bill arrives. Happy days    Lue lisää

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoMatkaaja

    Leon rest day

    5. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    How nice was it this morning to wake up knowing it was a rest day! Our 3rd and last rest day on the trip.
    We had a fabulous night catching up with Irish family and went to the most sumptuous restaurant that we have been to on this whole trip! It was almost in a time warp . I had Beef Wellington and bomb Alaska for dessert. Not sure I have ever had it before plus a black pudding starter! Vanessa and Fiona are real foodies so were pretty impressed. As you can imagine there was lots of chat and catching up . Rugby did not get a look in!
    Last night the streets were alive with the festival celebrating when the Christians took over the Muslims in the 13th C called San Froilan . There was opera folk and tradional music wherever we strolled..
    Today has been a day of soaking up the atmosphere of this beautiful city and doing a little shopping but we can't buy much as no room!
    We went to a medievil market and the food was amazing. Photos to follow but pigs in spits; paella, sausages of all descriptions and gallons of sangria!
    We are all going to eat there tonight.
    Beautiful day again but the mornings are cold.
    Bill arrives anytime and tomorrow we hit the track again and looking forward to getting into the Galicea region.
    Buen Camino    Lue lisää

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoMatkaaja
    11

    Leon to Hospital de Orbigo

    6. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Today was one of the most tedious hot never ending walks we have had! Now we are a team of 10 ( feet) as Bill has joined us for a few days walking.
    We had a lovely start to the day with Fiona Conor Vanessa and Tim walking the first 9 km with us. We all set off in good spirits and another beautiful morning thinking we would find a cafe and all have a farewell breakfast together. Not to be.
    We walked through 2 small villages and nothing was open . It's Saturday and Spain seems to take relaxing in the weekend to a whole new level.
    Finally after no cafes to be seen we all sat under a tree and shared a bag of pineapple lumps that Bill had kindly brought over, a bag of lollies and some sugared almonds.
    Sadly we bid farewell to our Irish family and we trudged.
    along dusty endless tracks beside rolling fields of maize and ploughed dirt.
    We did finally come to a sleepy town where it seemed not a soul stirred but there was a cafe with 2 things in the cabinet and a girl serving us who must have come top of the class at the school of no charm, but she made coffees and that was what we wanted!
    Due to a slightly later start we did not get into Hospital de Orbigo until 4pm. After 30 km it was sight for tired eyes. A beautiful bridge built by the Romans and a quaint historic town.
    The best thing is the Hotel here right by the old bridge and a lovely man running it. I had roast lamb tonight. Delicious.
    The town is famous here for jousting! An ancient sport but the competition continues.
    All having early nights and listening to the Irish game.
    We had a great night out in Leon last night having street food from the markets and ending up in a "snug"with our Irish family and a French man watching France play Italy .Bill had arrived so we were pleased to see him
    A much shorter walk tomorrow thankfully.
    Buenes noches    Lue lisää

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoMatkaaja
    12

    Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga

    8. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    What a difference a day makes!
    After yesterday's boring slog, today was a different walk entirely.
    The wonderful man at our hotel provided us with a simple breakfast ( usual croissant but heated!) Coffee and orange juice and off we set again to a beautiful morning. With the sun rising behind us the light was warm and almost casting a reddish hue. All the fatigue of yesterday's walk forgotten. As we were leaving a hard case Irish woman asked us if we were shaking in our boots referring to the big win Ireland had over Scotland. We replied cheekily that we were not a bit worried!
    A German girl from Berlin walked with us for awhile and everyone in good spirits. We saw livestock for the first time in a while and even cows that had been milked and goats and a few cattle. One village we passed through had a group. of men and their beagles getting ready for a pig hunt . We were just pleased it wasn't something out of Hunger Games! Lee in his orange top would have been a target!
    The country was undulating hills and had some lovely shade at times from groves of holm oaks and other vegetation. The villages we passed through seemed more affluent then the dire ones of yesterday and the odd new house had been built and even some rose gardens.
    We had coffee in a plain cafe after about 15 km and soaked up the Sunday morning atmosphere with locals enjoying the cafe culture. In the middle of nowhere there was a stall of food and coffee and for a donation we could help ourselves. The lovely German girl running it was shelling chestnuts and then going to make praline. She had a gorgeous big mastiff dog who had to be tied up as he would follow pilgrims to Astorga. The girl had a slight bohemian persona and was going to stay all winter there in a caravan. Apparently it gets downto -10 in winter.
    Today was 28 C.
    On we walked and the day was getting hotter but far in the distance we could see the city of Astorga with the Cathedral standing out against the blue sky.
    After a bit of a hot walk through the pavements of Astorga we came to Wendy's hotel and 3 gorgeous woman were there to greet us. The reception lady used Google translate to give us all the info and couldn't have been more helpful even finding a bed for Bill tomorrow night in Foncebadon. The rooms are great and we even have a sofa, a rare luxury. When we told them we didn't want
    breakfast in the morning as we wanted to get away early, the ladies were most upset so talked us into staying for that.
    Then it was down to the square near the cathedral and it was buzzing with all the locals out in their finery enjoying long lunches.
    There is a big Gaudi influence here and of course the magnificent Cathedral which dates from the 15th century. We have yet to visit the cathedral as the pull of beers rose and food overtook us.
    So now it is rest time and we will venture out in the early evening to explore this pretty city.
    We also need to attempt to vote but proving harder then we thought.
    Love all your messages and support and it seems a long time for you to be following this adventure. We are still laughing though and enjoying the slow pace of life where all you are worrying about is the path ahead of you. 262 km to go and have walked 528 km.
    Buen camino    Lue lisää

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoMatkaaja

    Astorga to Fancebadon

    9. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We have well left the Maseta region and are now into the hills.
    After a wonderful night in Astorga and dining out in the Spanish balmy air we had a good night's sleep.(well most of us)
    Up early for an amazing breakfast that the lovely ladies had prepared! To have fresh fruit and cereal is a real treat here. Plus the eggs scrambled was a treat.
    So we set off in the cool morning air and the walk was great with countryside varying with some cattle to see plus bush and trees.
    Amazingly we came across the British chap we met out of Burgos who was carrying the gnome! He is still carrying the gnome.and marching on.
    The day was hot as and we knew we had a steady climb but I must say by the end of 26 km there was no joy in walking! On and on we walked with some shade but mainly slate rocks to walk on
    Somehow we walked
    into Foncebadon ; a dear wee stone village in the middle of nowhere.
    We had a wonderful night celebrating my birthday and I was thinking how lucky am I to have wonderful friends and family with me to celebrate my bday.
    Hopefully a good night sleep before another 26 km walk..    Lue lisää

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoMatkaaja
    Iron Cross
    25

    Foncebadon to Ponferrada

    10. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    We were up early and having breakfast at 7 am as knew we had another big days walk ahead. A beautiful cool morning as we left the dear little mountain village .
    Our first stop was at the highest point on Camino the Cruz de Ferro ( the Iron Cross) It has become a significant monument of the Camino where people and places are remembered and stones of that place are placed on the base of the Cross. So with the sun rising and standing 1500 meters above level Brian and I placed 2 little rocks from Hatepe , Jack's very special place. Hugs and tears and on we went.
    It was a steep descent at times but as usual it is the little things that give us joy in this adventure. Wonderful happy walkers and today had 2 lots of singing moments.
    Then there were the gorgeous stone and wood Chalet type buildings with balconies of
    red geraniums.
    At our stop for late morning tea we ate delicious lemon sugar pancakes. This is where we farewelled Bill who was catching a train from Ponferada to Leon. It has been great having his company for a few days and getting a sense of the Camino spirit!
    On and on we descended really having to watch where we put our feet! Once again thankgoodness for poles.
    After about 22 km we had a drink and a small bite to eat at Molinesca which has a beautiful old stone bridge. A couple of pilgrims were swimming and we were envious.
    The usual last few km slog and we are now in Ponferada which is a surprisingly big city with a famous castle which we have yet to explore.
    28km today and about 28 C
    I was thoroughly spoilt last night for my birthday,presents and a yum dinner and beautiful Spanish wine. How lucky am I!
    Take note of the binned walking shoes! We took 2 pairs and now we only have 1 pair left.
    Just voted on Lee's tablet.    Lue lisää

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoMatkaaja

    Ponferrada to Villa Franca

    11. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    I woke up this morning and thought what an absolute luxury it would be to have a cup of tea in bed but no such luck. None of the hotels we stay in have tea making facilities in the rooms.
    Anyway dusty shoes on and off we set. It is definitely colder in the mornings and Jane even had gloves on. We now have a new moon to look at and it doesn't get light until 8 am.
    After a few km we stopped for breakfast to the usual croissants and today's were particularly nice and warm and fresh from the bakery.
    It's always a bit of an ordeal getting out of the bigger places but Brian and Jane do an excellent job of navigating us out. Lee and I prefer to not interfere! Lee is our road marshall and reminds us to stay on left side of road. Sometimes Jane and I can be deep in conversation and forget!
    Today's walk was really scenic and we walked through valleys of grapes , with trees turning gold and apples and pears lying on the ground. We walked through quaint villages with the stone and wood houses, some in need of great repair! Brian met a wood carver selling his wares so he was happy.
    We stopped for a late morning tea and chatted with a young chap from Alberta and he has walked the entire Camino in crocs and sleeps out underneath the stars.
    After 24 km we walked into Villa Franca which is like a sleepy Queenstown surrounded by hills and has beautiful old stone buildings and churches. Their main industry here apart from tourism is harvesting chestnuts and cattle.
    Our hotel is great with a balcony overlooking the hills beyond.
    Only 8 more days of walking and less then 200km to go.
    The team of eight are holding up pretty well but a few sore muscles today after the long descent yesterday.
    Up into the Galicia hills tomorrow.    Lue lisää

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoMatkaaja
    12

    Villafranca to O'Cebreiro

    12. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    So today we had a slightly different day and passed into Galicea which is an area in Spain that has quite a celtic history.
    We once again set off early in the dark with our headlights on. The walk was to be 29 km with a 9 km steep climb at the end but Jane had other ideas.
    So on we walked through pretty countryside with huge chestnut trees and quince trees , poplars all starting to drop their leaves plus all the chestnuts on the ground.
    Today we did a bit of road side walking which you have to be pretty careful navigating as the Spanish drivers drive fast,even through the little villages.
    Lots of cute villages today,some more prosperous then others and a bit of chat with fellow pilgrims including the English guy with the gnome! It turns out he is a rugby player who is a hooker. The gnomes name is Gnome Gallagher ( after the Oasis lead singer Liam) Anyway a few laughs and on we walked.
    After 21 km we stopped at a quaint village and met Victor who had 4 horses waiting for us. As I haven't been on a horse since the age of 14 I had a few reservations about this new experience but it was high ho silver an off we set! Jane the most experienced rider led the charge and the rest of us followed the leader! My horse Luna prooved to be a bit naughty. I think she was jut tired and it was her second climb up the track that day.
    We all clopped on in a very slow fashion and almost felt guilty as we passed fellow pilgrims slogging it up the quite steep hillside. Were we really worried, not a bit
    The ride went on for 2 1/2 hours and I must say was well ready to get off naughty Luna by the end but what an experience! Victor was quite a character and bought us drinks when we got to the top of redwine mixed with lemon fizz. It was surprisingly refreshing.
    As OCobreiro is totally booked out due to today being a Spanish holiday we are in a nearby very plain little town. Spain has continual holidays!
    In our quest to find a bar or restaurant open at 6 pm.we had to walk all around the town. Brian and Lee actually woke one bar owner up who staggered out with a barking dog and wearing a stained white singlet. He was not impressed.
    Finally we found a restaurant and have had a nice meal and now nack at hotel well ready for bed. 7 more days!    Lue lisää

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoMatkaaja
    1
    11

    O'Cebreiro to Triacastela

    13. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today was a very different sort of day due to the weather!
    For the first time bar 1 afternoon at the beginning of the Camino we had rain!
    Not only did we have rain but we had tremendous wind. The trusty group of 4 just carried on regardless and it was actually so nice to not contend with the heat! According to Victor our horseman Spain has had the hottest Autumn in 60 years and don't we know it!
    The actual route today was very scenic with views over rolling hills and walking through numerous little villages, some very delapidated.
    We had breakfast before we left in the quaint village of O'Cebreiro which over the last 20 years has had a complete make over , with beautiful stone buildings including the church. We are certainly noticing a more " touristy " feel now and not so many waiters from the school of no charm.
    I thinks when we set off today we acknowledged a bit of rain falling but then had no idea how stormy the weather would be.
    Brian and I had bought ponchos from mountain warehouse before we left NZ being assured they would be fine. Maybe fine at a music concert but not in today's Galician wind! Brian's poncho was completely shredded.
    I thought at one stage I was going to take off in my Tilley hat and poncho like the flying nun!
    We loved stopping into cosy little cafes on the way and had coffees and delicious cream of vegetable soup. Lee is a definite soup fan and after loving the garlic soup now is loving the Galician soup..cabbage and potatoes . Have yet to try it.
    Our walk today took us through groves of huge oaks and chestnuts all turning colours. We walked through the back of cow sheds with cow pats all over the path and the smell of silage so it was certainly a very rural feel! A lot of the places have big alsatians tied up to ward the pilgrims off.
    Finally the wind died down and the rain stopped and had a great walk in to Triacastela passing a 100 year old chestnut tree.
    We are staying in a big hostel which also has dormitories so a bit of a reunion seeing some we hadn't seen for awhile including Guy the Welshman who greeted us with hugs . Tonight we will have a pilgrim meal for 13 euro.
    Only 5 more days of walking and then team of eights bubble will dissolve.
    The boys are already working out where we can watch the rugby tomorrow night and we have a sweepstake going. Funny enough all the Irish we met early on have disappeared and the Aussies are out, the Americans the Koreans and the Hungarians ( our latest friends) don't care so not much talk of the rugby. Maybe that's a good thing.
    Voting day tomorrow so hope the government of your choice gets in!    Lue lisää

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoMatkaaja
    1

    Triacastela to Sarria

    14. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Today we set off in good spirits knowing we only had 18 km to walk, probably our shortest walking day yet. It was a cool dark morning but had had our coffees , toast and orange juice to set us up up for the day. The weather today was perfect for walking, sunny but not too hot.
    Lots of up hills and down dale today with more beautiful valleys of oaks and chestnuts only just turning colour. Again it was a very rural walk with walking along paths laden with cow pats to guide us on our way!
    After an hour or so we had to stop and check on the election result . We sat in a very "agricultural" spot to see that National had positioned themselves to be the new government and was happy to see that Winston ( hopefully) will not be the kingmaker.
    Had our morning coffee in a great cafe where the cows were coming past to graze after milking. On we walked through a couple of small villages on a lazy Saturday morning. Firewood was being collected for winter and tractors carting hay. The wonderful thing on this walk is that you feel you are looking at Spanish life through the back doors! Nothing is prettied up and we just see life as it is here.
    By 1 pm we had walked into Sarria which is not a particularly pretty town and we had a steep street to climb to get to our Hostel. Sarria is a very busy Camino town as many people who don't have time to walk the whole Camino will start here as it's 100 km to Santiago.
    After a long lunch ..calamari starter, loin of pork and chips, tinned pineapple and vino blanco we returned to our Hostel with one thing on our mind...where were we going to watch the rugby! Well we struck the jack pot. The dear man who runs the hostal called in his son and actually found the chanel that the rugby was on. We couldn't believe our luck as no where on this Camino have we had a TV with the sports chanel that plays rugby. It's all football. We feel this stroke of luck is a good omen for our All Blacks. Our Welsh man Guy may join us and one lone Irish man may also ,but is not sure he could cope with watching with 4 kiwis.
    So here we sit with our olives, pastrami, and fresh bread watching Wales v Argentina, Lee has not long brought the laundry back and we have totally taken over the lounge of our hostel. Domestic bliss.
    Kia Kaha All Blacks and am sure it's going to be a great game!    Lue lisää

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoMatkaaja
    1
    11

    Sarria to Portomarin

    15. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    So we went to bed last night very happy kiwis and woke up this morning very happy tired kiwis but what a game last night!
    Off we set in the dark and probably just as well as we had a steep long climb out of Sarria. On and on we climbed and stopped for breakfast about 6 km along the way. Decidedly needed.
    It started off misty in the morning and then the steady drizzle set in but the walk was so pretty with all the huge ancient oaks and chestnuts forming canopys along the way.
    I seem to take lots of photos of happy cows but it all looks so peaceful apart from the rural smells at times!
    The walk has changes somewhat in that there are heaps more walkers and gone is the peace of the Meseta but it's at times like a walkathon. Many have only just started so we feel a tad smug that we have come so far.
    On we walked for 24 km and never did the rain stop but almost preferable to searing heat.
    We celebrated our arrival into Portomarin by a delicious late lunch at an Italian restaurant .
    The descent into Portomarin was quite a challenge walling down a steep rocky hillside. Twice I landed on my backside but luckily I landed " lightly" Our shoes are getting a bit worn.
    The team of 8 ( feet) are also getting a bit worn and my left foot is certainly a foot only a mother could love! Calloused, 2 missing toenails and a small blister. It could be letting the team down! We still lie puttour feet up against the wall after every walk.
    We passed a rather insignificant marker to say only 100 km to go.
    Staying in a very modern hostel and have just returned from one of the best meals yet on the Camino. Waldorf salad , stuffed chicken breast and home made apple cake with not a chip in sight, plus the friendliest waiter.
    We will sleep well    Lue lisää

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoMatkaaja

    Portomarin to Palas de Rei

    16. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After a bit of a late night watching SA v France game we were up early having breakfast before we departed. It was such a treat to see cereal laid out and even kiwi fruit! Almost feltlike home. Rachael our host was a sweetie and in her limited English and our more limited Spanish we all chatted over breakfast. The hotel had the theme of the Godfather and was very modern.
    Off we set with many others which we are still getting use to. There were quite a few climbs today so the heart rate was going up !
    Really pretty countryside similar to the last few days with the rural theme continuing. Jane befriended a dear old alsation who looked like he might join us for the walk.
    The light rain came mid morning and carried on for most of the day.
    Our destination seemed a long time coming today but finally we were checking into our hotel about 3.30 pm. It is very quaint with lace trimmed pillows on the beds and thick brick walls.
    My shoes are holding in there just and I see s split on one side so may have to do some repairs.
    3 more days of camino walking. Will miss the simplicity of this life and the interesting people we meet but think my feet will be thanking me!    Lue lisää

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  • Sarah NaylorCaminoMatkaaja
    1
    11122Spider bite ttack

    Palas de Rei to Arzua

    16. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Last night we had a very Galician meal at a quaint pub. Squid with baby octopus which is a traditional dish here. It was all totally delicious. Jane Brian and Lee had had an earlier session with an Irish psychiatrist who informed them that the Galicea people identify more with being celts then spanish. He has walked the Camino 5 times so guess he a bit of an expert. 3 lively Scottish colleens walked in while having dinner and had got stuck in a pub and had yet to book into their hostel but were full of fun. Not sure how their walking panned out today.
    After a standard breakfast we set off in the dark as had a 29 km walk ahead. Unfortunately Brian yesterday had been bitten by a ? Spider and had a red lump but overnight had grown. Nurse Emmanuel Sarah and Jane decided care needed to be taken. At morning tea break the redness had increased.
    On we walked through pretty lush countryside with amazing groves of trees , streams and old bridges.
    Finally we got to a biggish town called Melide and luckily Jane remembered a great place she and Suzie had had lunch at 4 years ago. The lunch was stunning and our Kenyam friend Rose joined us ( with her voodoo stick) Photos of menu below)
    Lots of up hills continued and after about 19 km.Brian said his leg was really sore . Luckily beside a great location with a food truck and they ordered a taxi. Was I worried about not walking the final 10 km ,not a bit! The rain was coming.down and best Brian get his leg up.
    So here we are in Arzua, a plain little town but staying in a wonderful hotel run by a stunningly beautiful young lady. We have ended up at the local pub and had delicious lasagne and pizzas. We caught up with some of the young and one.we have walked with from the beginning that we had named Jesus. Guess which one he is. As only the young can do after numerous beers they are walking.on another 10 km in the rain!
    Such a great spirit though with young and old. We will certainly miss this wonderful team spirit of so many nationalities all sharing the same experiences
    Shout out to Jane and Lee who walked the whole 29 km today and in the pouring rain for last 2 hours. Lee last seen in the laundromat!
    2 more days    Lue lisää

    Katso käännös
  • Sarah NaylorCaminoMatkaaja

    Arzua to Pedrouzo

    17. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    Can not believe we only have one more day of walking on the Camino Frances and under 20 km left to go.
    We started off this morning in the pouring rain and quite a bit of wind so not ideal walking conditions but us hardy souls knew the show must go on. It quite dark at 8 am now so we don't want to leave too early and we are not dealing with the heat of the Meseta
    The paths are becoming increasingly crowded with pilgrims but we can not complain as we are part of the crowd! Although there are at times too many in the cafes there is also a festive vibe now. I think we all know the end is near and the challenge of the 780 km walk has almost been achieved.
    Luckily Brian's spider bite did not get worse overnight and armed with panadol and a good antihistamine cream he managed the 20 km walk.
    The day did improve and was again very pretty and very rural. I must say when we are walking in forests of gum trees and the wind is fierce I am very happy to move along quickly.
    We had the most delicious lunch today. The boys had hamburgers which they declared the best they had eaten. I had a delicious blue cheese tomato salad. This area is famous for the soft cheeses they make plus their octopus dishes.
    Pedrouza doesn't look to be the most exciting town and our window is looking out to cows!
    Shoes are holding out just and with the rain and a bit of mud they are not overly waterproof.
    We still continue to meet different interesting people every day and re meet up with others. Lee went up to 3 Sth African walkers and quietly stated that the All Blacks will beat SA in the final! This created great shrieks of protests and laughs.
    Today there was a group of about 6 blind people all with guides walking on the track. There seems to be a great army of volunteers who support the disabled on the Camino.
    The wind is blowing outside but the Spanish wine, octopus, and cheeses are waiting for us!
    Buen Camino.    Lue lisää

    Katso käännös
  • Sarah NaylorCaminoMatkaaja
    1111

    We have made it!

    19. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    What a day of adventure and emotions!
    After an amazing breakfast of cereal fruit yoghurt and the beautiful local cheese and quince paste we set off in the wind rain and dark! I had 2 layers of ponchos on and looked like a bag lady!
    But all we had was only 1 job to do today and that was to.put one foot in front of the other for 20 km.
    How proud were we of the team of eight plodding on in the dark, torrential rain and rivers of water coming down the paths. I am sure the walk was pretty, but concentration was required to stop us completely tipping over in the mud and slush.
    Given all that , there was such an exuberant atmosphere of all the pilgrims, some of which we have traveled with from the beginning ,knowing the end was near.
    On we squelched with a coffee stop and then an
    early lunch break 5 km away from the Cathedral. By then the rain had stopped and even some sun . We could see the spires in the distance of the Cathedral and it was all pretty exciting.
    I looked down at my shoes with splits down the sides and was so happy I never have to put them on again!
    On we walked and the crowd of pilgrims seemed to increase but the buzz was amazing. On the way in there were Mat and Tass and so excited to see us, plus many other familiar faces.
    Finally we walked through a tunnel and came out into the square with the mighty Compestella Santiago before us. We had made it after 37 days and 780 km of walking.
    What an adventure and Brian and I couldn't think of better friends then Jane and Lee to have walked the Camino with. Lots of fun and we were just the best team.
    How proud Jack would have been of us walking the Frances Camino at our own medium pace and he would have said "whoa you did it!"
    I may have to write a final blog tomorrow to sign off but now it's time to explore Santiago. Don't think I will be eating the octopus!    Lue lisää

    Katso käännös
  • Sarah NaylorCaminoMatkaaja
    12

    Epilogue

    20. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Thankyou for all your messages of support after we had finished the Camino. I've really enjoyed writing the blog and getting messages back .
    We are now in Paris and are catching up with my Irish family which is wonderful. Paul drove all the way up from Barcelona to meet us in Finisterre and had good craic with him there, even finding a pub to watch the AB v Argentina game! Finisterre is the very end point of the Camino by the sea. Back in the day the pilgrims looked out to the horizon thinking the world was flat and that it really was the end of the world.
    It's a beautiful spot and am posting a video of the bag pipes being played at the lighthouse area. Beautiful sea food there too.
    Then Paul drove us back up to Santiago and had another night out with him in a tapas bar with delicious food and albuerina wine!
    Yesterday we flew up to Paris, sadly leaving Spain but Hele n, Annabel and Eva from. Ireland are here and had a great catch up last night.
    So this is the end if my blogs
    I look back now and already those days of walking in the heat , or under a full moon with the sun rising seem a long time ago. I know that the spirit of the Camino is pretty special and was so wonderful to have shared the experience with Brian, Lee and Jane.
    Buen Camino    Lue lisää

    Katso käännös
    Matkan lopetus
    25. lokakuuta 2023
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