• Day 19 Salas to Tineo 398 km

    11. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    So I learned that one must ensure that your Camelback drinking valve is closed before one goes to bed 😱
    What a mess!!? I began the day trying to dry my pack and contents.

    After that it was great. Beautiful starry sky. The trail was very steep and rocky.

    I walked with A vril who has a Texas address but has been in Europe for the past 9 months. She was so interesting.

    The scenery continues to be stunning I saw the 2 guys running the Camino again!!I I seealso saw 3 guys on bikes.

    I got in at 130 which was great.
    Very crowded tonight no available beds.

    Saw my black cat and got a great picture.
    A very hot day up to 30 C
    It should be cooler tomorrow and rain forecasted for Friday.

    Claudia from the Czech Republic is staying here. She took a picture of a Linden tree. Apparently the leaves are in the shape of a heart💖
    Lue lisää

  • Day 18 Grado to Salas 377km

    10. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Slept well. Up at 530. It was a cute place with a clothes line out the window very convenient.

    Off in the dark and had someone redirect me. Nope I still suck at navigation🙄

    The stars were out and I saw all of my favs. It was straight up a mountain.

    Now I am enjoying other Pilgrims as they can help me with my navigation. 👍 I am going through withdrawal from the constant fear of being off course on the Norte🧐 I am slowly trusting the posts....it's a process.😉😂

    Really loved the variety of the day. I had a tortilla bocadillio.
    Delicious.

    I have a picture of how they have protected the landscape by using cement . Quite something to see.

    I saw my black cat today.

    I spoke to a really nice girl from. The Czech Republic.

    Most pilgrims passing me were speaking Spanish.

    Huge problem with booking rooms due to the Spanish Holiday on the 12 the. Some Albergues are closed for it,!!
    I contacted over 5 different places and they had no availability.

    I am forced to take a rest day. Which is not a bad thing at all😉
    But it's all part of this experience

    It was very hazy today. I thought it might be smoke,?
    Lue lisää

  • Day 17 Oviedo to Grado 353.8 km

    9. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Left at 7 am after a great sleep.

    It was quite challenging getting out of the city. I think it took around 45 minutes .

    I finally saw 2 pilgrims who breezed by me walking very quickly.

    The trail is marked with bronze shells embedded in the sidewalk.
    After that there were sign posts. So already it is fairly easy to follow the way.

    It was quite chilly this morning. I was wearing my T-shirt. Maybe I will be using my merino wool after all.🤔

    The air smelled great. I was so happy to be on dirt paths and in the trees. The countryside is lovely.

    I kept seeing more pilgrims throughout the day.....probably 20 or more. Most are Spanish I would say.

    There is also a big French group. So it definitely is busier here than the Norte.

    I am also discouraged at the problem of not having enough. accommodation as well. I remember the same problem on the Camino Frances. last year but I thought it wouldn't extend to this Camino as well.

    It has prevented me from tackling a route I really wanted to do. But so it is. I am trying not to let it get to me.

    Very hot at the end of the day 30 C I believe. I have a sun protection T-shirt that I wear but the rays just penetrate right through you.

    Ready for a good night's sleep🤗
    Lue lisää

  • Day 16 Train from Comilles to Oviedo

    8. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Woke up early and had breakfast with other Pilgrims.

    Lots of Pilgrims with sore knees and heels etc some are taking rest days or going home or shortening their daily mileage
    It continues to be scorching hot.
    That is a very serious issue for walking.

    I also noticed I am missing the clasp on my chest strap for my pack......any suggestions?

    It was 30 C in Oviedo this afternoon.

    While I waited for the train
    a cab pulled up at the station and this little woman got out. It was Hiker the lady from Germany who had lent me her phone in order to get into my Albergue when mine died!!!
    She was starting her walk from there. We hugged and laughed and then she was on her way. She said she was so happy to see me again. A gift from above she said💖

    The train ride was 3 hours. Saw some beautiful sites.

    After I arrived in Olveido , II walked 1 1/2 km to my place. Then off to see the Cathedral. It was closed unfortunately. How could it be closed on a Sunday??

    There were so many people out and about because it was Sunday.

    I have 25 km tomorrow and am really looking forward to it.

    It will be nice to return to trees and mountains.
    Not too many pics today.
    Lue lisää

  • Day 15 Santillana to Comilles 325.59 km

    7. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Had a terrific sleep! My bunkmate loves sleeping with the window open👍

    Out the door by 7. I am trying to leave earlier to beat the he.at.

    Beautiful stars this morning. I even saw a shooting star.

    Lovely walking although very steep inclines and declines. I used my walking backward down the hills to save my knees and give my quads a break.

    Had breakfast with Camilla from Hungary at a bar. Anne Marie joined us. Freshly squeezed OJ and tortilla.

    It got very hot once the sun came out. However most of the walking was in shade and lovely forested roads.

    Much nicer conditions today and eventually we got back to the ocean.

    Lovely hostel. We have cubed beds which offer curtains for privacy.

    Went and got groceries for tomorrow

    Had quite a pivotal moment when I had trouble with my pack transport. Long story short.... I am taking the train to Oviedo tomorrow and starting the Primitivo route Monday morning.

    I decided to switch a bit earlier than planned......but so it goes.

    I have felt very frustrated with this walk ever since Bilbao. I think the best part was Irun to Bilbao.

    The change in plans took awhile to do tonight so I am keeping this short.
    Lue lisää

  • Day 14 Boo to Santillana del Mar 302 km

    6. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Had a lovely breakfast at 7. Left for the train station. We had to take the train to the next stop for safety reasons.

    Got off. Very cool and misty walking. Very peaceful listening to the birds.

    Love seeing the livestock. Seeing the burros just made my day!!

    I also saw my first pig but the picture didn't turn out well

    Long stretches of pavement but this place is so cool!!
    The convent is so nice. I can't wait for the Pilgrim:s blessing and supper tonight.

    Everyone is here from the Albergue in Boo. Nice to see familiar faces for sure.

    The shower was the best by far on the Camino to date.

    Chris and her group from Alaska shared their pizza and salad with me for lunch. Amazing what good food can do to boost your spirits.

    The heat reminds me of the Meseta last year....very weird for coastal walking I think.
    Lue lisää

  • Day 13 Santander to Boo 279.5km

    5. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Woke up at 530. Bunk mate from China was up as well. She was taking the train to Madrid. She completed the Del Norte from Irun to Santander. She will come back next year to do more.

    This place had a freshly ground coffee machine which was FREE.
    I had a few cups after I got it to work. They had a timer on it set for 830.....

    Set off and met a few pilgrims . Apparently the main Albergue in Santander was closed for some reason so people were struggling for accommodation last night

    Walked to Boo today. 15 km the stage was 38 km in total. Way too far for me.

    I have never seen as many arrows as I did today?? Why ??

    My Albergue doesn't open until 230 so I am having tortilla at a bar with a mini Coke Zero.

    I will rest and plan some more. So much road walking again...I miss the dirt trails at the beginning🙄

    Very pretty countryside. I saw my black cat for the day👍🤗

    Not a spectacular day at all. Very hot! at 111 in the morning.
    Lue lisää

  • Day 12 San Miguel to Santander 265 km

    4. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Great sleep although I was up late looking at the upcoming stages I am thinking of going down the Primitivo way. There is a lot of road walking lately which I would prefer to be hiking more
    I will go to Oviedo and decide there I think

    Started walking in the dark on a narrow road with no shoulder. I had my headlamp on but it was not very good 😳
    I thought the road would improve but it did not all the way until we were closer to the ocean This is what I am not to keen on.

    My pictures will show how narrow the road was....buses and big trucks are on it. Not Pilgrim safe at all🥺

    I have a pic of an elderly gent walking and who was listening to Opera....

    The countryside really is stunning.

    I had the best tortilla ever for breakfast! With fresh orange juice 🥰👏

    The views of the ocean from the path along the cliff were Spectacular!!!

    Huge beach. It must have been a couple km long for sure. It reminded me of the West Coast trail beach walking.

    I used my GPS to navigate where I was to go after it.....and almost missed the tiniest sign that said 'ferry".

    There were delightful people from Italy, Nomads from the USA they have an address in South Dakota....it's a long story ...and a guy and his wife from Victoria Lex and Peter. She is suffering with a leg compartment syndrome😥but is improving.

    Took the awesome ferry over to Santander. A pirate ship was docked close to where we got off. 3.30 Euros for the ride.

    Found my hostel. Very nice indeed.

    My watch wasn't charged enough and turned off early. I clocked 25 km today. Sunny and very warm😎
    Lue lisää

  • Day 11 Laredo to San Miguel 240.5 km

    3. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Had a terrific sleep. Left by 7 am.
    I am only walking 20 km today. So not completing the 28 km stage

    Overcast with light rain. I packed my raincoat.

    Started with a 5 km walk to a point where a ferry would bring us over to Sonoma.

    All of a sudden pilgrims started appearing including Victoria !
    I was so happy to see her again.

    We had cafe con leche after we crossed. Vibram guy was with us on the ferry as well.

    While we had our coffee a dozen pilgrims passed😱 it was the most I have seen all trip. Yesterday I saw 3 pilgrims in total during the day.

    Victoria mentioned how she had suffered with the heat yesterday I guess a pilgrim was airlifted by helicopter off of a ridge ....heat exhaustion/ collapse.....very scary.

    So many varied ways today. Victoria is going a different way than me. We parted ways....

    Beautiful peaceful walking.
    Quiet countryside. It did rain a bit but no bother.

    Arrived at my destination early before 2 pm. 🙄
    Had Bacalou fish for lunch
    Very tasty after I removed the batter and skin.

    Very wonderful hostel. Immaculate and Fantastic shower.

    I have a long day tomorrow as I am going to Santander. Another ferry ride I am told. Yahoo!
    Lue lisää

  • Day 10 CastroUndiales to Laredo 220.9 km

    2. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Had a great sleep. Left later than usual 7:00am

    Very nice beginning to the day but starting at 20 C is tough.

    As you can see the scenery is stunning. However I thought I could handle the distance but the heat made it extremely challenging.

    I was fine until Liendo. As you can see looking at the map there are tons of alternative routes. I thought the one I chose was the shortest.....30 km later😱

    But the big roadblock was that MY PHONE DIED !!!!

    Yup. I know it overheated....battery fried!

    So I had no way to navigate my way when I arrived at Laredo.
    I had no address or phone number of the place. Luckily I remembered its name.

    I looked at a map at the Church of Santa Maria run by 2 Nuns in habits. But trying to find the signage on buildings is tricky. 2 people told me to go the Policia for help.

    By some miracle I found the place.....it was 530 at night!!!

    Then I was sooooo fortunate to find a phone place (same company that I bought my SIM card from) and bought a NEW PHONE

    I am the proud owner of a Samsung Galaxy A14 5G😂
    The lady spoke excellent English. I was also able to go to a shop to get the screen protector and case.

    Needless to say I was a wee bit weary....
    Lue lisää

  • Day 9 Portugalete to CastroUndiales 191k

    1. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Woke up at 430 am to the sound of a lot of talking. I believe it was Korea n? I know they like to start early......

    Anyway, Anja is going to walk with me. Victoria from Florida lent her a day pack. She is sending her luggage ahead and has booked a place before my destination. She is unsure how many km she can do.

    We set off not on the original Camino but an alternative that Victoria told us about. By the ocean more and no senseless climbs in the mountains.

    Beautiful and stunning path today.
    The town of Verbenia had a German feel to it with the house style Bavarian looking.

    My pace was quite slow as I accommodated Anja. After La Arena I parted ways with her as I had about 10 kms more to do than her.

    It was sooooo hot But the path passed a Bar at the top with a view of the ocean😍 Topped up with Gatorade and CocaCola Zero .

    Passed a pilgrim wearing VIBRAMS. Barefoot alternative.
    He was walking on pavement!!! Yikes!!!

    Today I leave the Basque country and enter into Cantabria.
    Lue lisää

  • Day 8 Reat Day - Portugalete

    29. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Had a great sleep. Woke up early to say goodbye to Bernadette and Anna

    Anja decided to stay an extra night. We went out for a delicious lunch I had Sea Bass !
    Lots of bones so had to be careful.

    I met Anja in Bilbao. She was carrying so much stuff that a homeless person saluted her😅

    She bought a new backpack there and walked 10 km. She Stopped and decided to take the bus. She didn't know how so asked a garbage collector who in turn led her to the warehouse where about 50 men were gathered. No one aspoke English and only one spoke German. He was able to help her👍

    Today I helped her arrange her luggage transfer. She will do less km tomorrow than I.
    We will set out at 7 at the latest It looks like another scorching hot day.

    I must mention this Viscaya hanging bridge thing it transports people and vehicles over the channel in a suspended team for 50 Euros.....or you can pay 8.5 Euros to walk across the top of it!!! I could have taken it but didn't realize what it was. I thought it was just an ugly crane like structure Anja took it and had a blast😅

    There is an alternative route for tomorrow by the water so we will take that . I don't know how it will affect my kms for the day.

    A man in our Albergue got lost just trying to find this place. So many pilgrims go off track The Camino is very poorly marked and there are so many other trails as well. The GR trail is one marked by red and white stripes . It is used all over Europe. At this point I am navigating with a screenshot of a map/ downloaded map from All Trails app Google Maps, and the Wise Pilgrim app. I will be a pro with navigation after this experience for sure😉😅💪
    Lue lisää

  • Day 7 Bilbao to Portugalete 163.44

    29. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Oh my goodness! So hot today! It is supposed to stay this way for 10 days or so.

    Met a lovely girl from Winchester as a bunk mate. Her name is Julie and she was hilarious. I had the buffet breakfast at our hostel this morning with her. Then we walked together to the museum and parted ways She had been on a 5 day kayaking/hiking vacation with 12 of her friends. They were close to Santander a place called Llanes.

    Very dull walk today. Not many pics. I have been spoiled. A lot of people skip this part🙄

    I rode another Pickle boat. A guy on the boat tried scamming me for 50 Euros😳 Then the driver of the boat got into a shouting match with him. I had thought I was to pay him to go across but he was keeping the mone y. The Spanish get very excited when provoked😱

    Took my time walking today I stopped for lunch and bought a belt to keep my shorts from falling down.

    Love the Albergue here. Very nice Pilgrims. One of the ladies started from Holland 2 months ago Bernadette.

    I met a new friend Anja from Germany. I will tell you more about her later.

    Oh yes check out the guy with the 12 foot rod. I wish I knew what kind of fish was trying to catch.

    Going to bed now😔
    Rest day tomorrow😎
    Lue lisää

  • Day 6 Gernika to Bilbao 146.95 km

    28. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    This was a day of very rough trail conditions ....mud and rocks!

    Before I explain I want to let you know that every day I see a black cat🥺 Today it was a ceramic one in a shop I passed this am....Harley's spirit♥️

    Great day and only saw maybe 6 pilgrims total.
    I have taken shots of the different trail surfaces to give you an idea of what we walk on.
    We went through a forest that had used heavy equipment.

    Trees today were eucalyptus and pine. Some pine trees are dying and I wonder if they have pine beetle here??

    We didn't go thru any towns.
    About 12 km in A lady had a stand by the edge of the road with fresh fruit, nuts ( freshly roasted off their trees) .What a treat!!!

    I also saw my first fig tree today!
    Very hot High 20's.

    I have added on a better map of the stage I walked as the one on my Garmin isn't great.

    Took the train to Bilbao from Lemaza as there was no place to stay there or on the next stage.

    Oh and I tried my first pinxto. They are like tappas.

    I lost my sunglasses but got another pair luckily🤗
    Lue lisää

  • Day 5 Markina Xeman to Gernika 126.2 km

    27. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Wonderful sleep even though the woman beside me snored like a .....Had breakfast and merrily set out.

    Glorious sunrise. Beautiful countryside and forest hiking..
    I was super delighted to catch up with Tricia and Kira. They are a Mom and daughter pair from Gallway Ireland. Kira wanted to go by herself and her mom said "Can I come?" Tricia was such a trooper!! I told her how awesome she was doing. Not easy at all for her. They fly home Saturday.

    Rianne sent me a funny voice message....she said "I want to be kind to my body ( she had a previous Achilles SX,) so I will only do 22 km today not the ,30 I had planned! " I never did meet up with her I think I passed her somehow. 😢

    Then came the Burros. I was in heaven. I petted the little guy for a long time. I loved his bangs!!!

    I went off track again. There were even arrows pointing that way....very confusing for people.

    I am slowly getting the hang of GPS trail walking.....Very sketchy signage in a lot of places.
    Lue lisää

  • Day 4 Deba to Markina Xemein 98.65 km

    26. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Up at 5 am and caught the 620 bus back to Deba. I learned to never trust your memory in Spain for locations use Google Maps. I almost missed the bus 🙄

    Spectacular day. Beautiful scenery. mostly forest trails. I maybe saw 8 Pilgrims in total.

    I saw Lauren from Glasgow. She has the coolest accent.

    A lot of people are finishing in Bilbao. Many just walking for a week.

    This is my favorite Camino so far. It is very similar to walking between Muxia and Finisterre.

    The Albergue is very nice. There are 18 beds altogether in a loft. We will see how much sleep I get tonight🤞🍀
    Lue lisää

  • Day 3 Zarautz to Deba 73.68 km

    25. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    I actually took advantage of staying in my hostel 2 nights so slept in!!

    I left around 730.
    The first part was walking on the sea wall for 4 km. Beautiful sunrise.

    Cafe con leche in Gitaria.

    I didn't see Rianne . She is 2 stages ahead of me now. I won't see her again which is so sad.
    I also didn't.'t see Gavin either. He had a late start and no room booked for tonight poor guy.
    We keep in touch with What's App 🤗

    I had to travel by train from Deba when I arrived back to Zarautz because there were no beds available.

    Anyway beautiful trails and scenery.

    I love the Del Norte😂😍
    Lue lisää

  • Day 2 San Sabastian to Zarautz 50.67km

    24. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Woke up at 5 am and started walking along the sea wall for 3 km.
    There were people everywhere,!!
    Some bars were still even open.

    Beautiful scenery. Loved being in the woods seeing lighthouses, and the views of the ocean.

    I have included a few pics of what we had to walk on just to give you an idea of the wide variety of surfaces. Then add on the steepness of the terrain and that is why the difficulty is rated so high.

    Many people were on the beaches because it was Saturday Hundreds of road bikes. No cute bell to let you know they are there. I will never complain ever again about how annoying they are🙄

    They travel in peletons ( groups of varied numbers,) and pedal at unbelievable speeds. They terrify me. I have almost been hit a couple of times 😱

    Lots of donkeys🥰😍♥️ Also sheep, cows and goats.

    Absolutely loving each day. I rarely see many pilgrims. This trail ticks all the boxes except for trying to book rooms 🙄 An ongoing issue.

    Wishing everyone good health🤗💖
    Lue lisää

  • Rest day San Sabastian

    23. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    I slept 10 hours last night.

    Walked around the town and bought a new headlamp.
    Saw Gavin and chatted for a bit.
    He is waiting for his mate to arrive this afternoon.

    What a great place! Old town is very quaint very much like Leon.
    I didn't get any pics of it just around the church.

    Tomorrow will be hot they say.
    Lue lisää

  • Day 1 Irun to San Sabastian 26.4 km

    22. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    So....went to bed so excited for my first day of walking ....and someone started running a chainsaw at 1am - 5 am!!!!
    And there was a forklift beeping.
    Not a great sleep.

    On the road by 630 am
    Following a new GPS as my other app doesn't have one yet.
    Needless to say, very little signage and I had to ask 3 different Spanish men where the trail was.!!!

    I finally found it and saw a few pilgrims so was very relieved.

    Very challenging
    Absolutely gorgeous scenery.
    Walking with a guy from Leeds Gavin) and a young Dr. from
    Germany (Polo). She is studying 6 years to be a visceral surgeon.

    My pics will show the terrain. You can see how the weather changes.

    Delighted to walk through a herd of pregnant Mares and foals just grazing. Saw a few frail runners ( not Camino people)

    I will include my Garmin stats to show elevation as well.

    I lost my headlamp.

    Great but exhausting day🤗
    Oh and Rianne is a stage ahead of me. Very slim chance I will see her again but we're texting.
    Lue lisää

  • Bilbao to Irun

    21. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Tomorrow I start the Del Norte
    It has been raining but tomorrow morning looks dry.
    Had a great sleep. Bunk mate from Latvia Elita completed the Norte in 40 days
    Took the Metro down to bus station. Currently travelling to Irun. Met up with Rianne from the Netherlands. She is starting tomorrow as well.
    Arrived and found my place no problem I have my first pilgrim stamp😉 and my first Pilgrim dinner 12.5 Euros. YesI even ate the French fries 😂
    Organized my gear for tomorrow.
    Expecting rain and mud😳Just like the West Coast Trail neh🤣
    Was wished Buen Camino by many💪🤗💞💞💞
    Lue lisää

  • Amsterdam to Bilbao

    20. syyskuuta 2023, Belgia ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    I was able to sleep a bit on the plane which was good.
    Lots of kids and babies.
    Very tight connection in Amsterdam but they have a special line for people like me to go through customs faster
    I can't wait to get to Bilbao. It is such a beautiful city.
    Amtb
    Lue lisää

  • Seattle flight to Amsterdam

    19. syyskuuta 2023, Yhdysvallat ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Arrived here at SeaTac airport and passed through security without issue.
    We took a train to get to our gate. The plane is packed!!
    The flight is 9 hours 25 minutes, so I will have to get up and walk around when able to.
    I believe the Mountain is My. Ranier?
    Did not see any Northern Lights this trip.
    I watched Veep (hilarious) and Succession.
    Lue lisää

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