Out walking or reading a book. Lue lisää Milwaukee, Wisconsin
  • Päivä 26

    Day 22 - Triacastela to Sarria

    21. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    Got an early start and we were out the door before sunrise. We knew we had a big day and couldn’t wait to get going.

    We were ready for some rain, but fortunately we spared. We had a chance to see some of the amazing beauty in Galicia as we hiked up and out of Tricastela.

    We really enjoyed todays hike. It was remote, and something we had not seen before. Farms, very small villages and decay. The smell of manure was pungent, and at one point Joan was gagging and we couldn’t get away from the manure on the path and the smell in the air. Thankfully we had no black flies.

    We thought we would have cafes, restaurants or bars- there was only one co-op / hippie commune in one small crossroad offering coffee and fruit, and a small farm who had a bar, where we had cold sausages and cheese. (And Julie thought she ordered a chorizo empanada). We made due.

    We walked into Sarria after 21km / 13.4 miles. Sarria is significant as in order to receive a compostela (official certificate of completion), you must walk the final 100km /69 miles and collect two stamps per day in your credential. You present that in Santiago to receive your compostela.

    Everyone warned us that our last 5 days starting with Sarria would be very different than the previous 600km. Crowds, buses, tours. And we saw it the minute we walked into the town. Big groups of people. They haven’t walked a step yet. We told ourselves to be kind and loving to these newbies- but we were put off because we had enjoyed the solitude of the trail.

    We had a beautiful Casa/ apartment (Casa Marquesa), a wonderful Italian dinner, some uno and hit the sack.

    Home stretch baby!
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  • Päivä 25

    Day 21 - Fonfria to Triacastela

    20. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌧 46 °F

    We all agreed playing Uno we would have breakfast together at 8:30 am. The storm was expected to rage until the afternoon. After we enjoyed breakfast, Joan and I agreed we would not leave until noon. The wonderful proprietor of the Casa agreed to let us stay and wait out the storm.

    The Casa had floor to ceiling windows in the great room and you could hear the wind and rain pelt the windows. Joan and I decided to watch a Hallmark movie on TV and plan out our remaining days. Others decided to leave around 10-11.

    At 11, I decided to venture down and see who was all still around. I ran into Brazilians who were gearing up for their 3rd attempt to leave and head down the mountain. Please see video. They were so excited and texted us an hour later to tell us that the wind died down and we would be ok once we got down the mountain.

    Joan and I geared up. We realized that Haley, the 21yr old from the Netherlands was still “napping”. We were the only last night pilgrims left and new pilgrims were filtering in sopping wet. Joan yelled up the stairs for “Hayley to get her shit together as we were leaving.” She said she was coming…10 min later we yelled we were leaving and she should catch up to us.

    What were we thinking. It was the worst weather we have ever walked in on purpose. Hayley quickly caught us and once we got off the mountain, it turned into a very nice 12.6 km/7.8 mile walk.

    We had a nice apartment in Triacastela with a wood burning stove and we ran into many of our new Camino family, walking this last stretch, at the one restaurant in town. All of them were excited to play another round of uno. It was a another night filled with laughter and fun with people from all over the world.
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  • Päivä 24

    Day 20 - to Lineras…no Fonfria

    19. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    After a great nights sleep we were up and on the road 7:30 am, dark, and pouring rain. We probably made a poor choice to walk in dark and pouring rain, however we had a big day ahead of us and wanted to get a jump on it.

    It was 4K into the next town at the base of a mountain, and ducked into the first cafe and immediately tan into Camino friends from Washington state who were waiting to ride the horses up the hill.

    We warmed up and tried to dry up. The village horseman came in and informed our friends that it was too treacherous for the horses to go up the mountain. We inquired if we should walk, as many pilgrims were continuing, however using the road), he shook his head no and we jumped into a cab with the 4 Washington state people and drove up 5km.

    On the way up the single road, winding up the mountain, a pilgrim was frantically waiving poles for the taxi/van to atop. When the pilgrim took off rainhood we saw it was Pilgrim Chris from Michigan. We gave her a lift up.

    Taxi dropped us at the top of the Galician mountain in an old Celtic town called O’Cebrio. Wind was howling, we were soaked to the bone. We toured the church and and a few buildings. We even found Joan a warmer coat and I got a sweatshirt to warm up.

    We found another cafe and we had what we thought were hot chocolate, however it was melted thick chocolate like a pudding. Delicious. Joan had the local Galician soup and loved it.

    We literally saw two German ladies we have seen along the trail and they had shorts and a t shirt and only a poncho on…we felt grossly inadequate. We shared our table with two Friars walking in their long black robes. They were both priests/monks from Florida-
    Father Elias, and Father Cambell. They were soaked to the bone and on their way to the monastery.

    Joan and I had another 4km to our next stop/Hostal for the night. We geared up and hiked it through the howling wind and sideways rain.

    As we entered the one structure town, I realized we did not have a suite for the night and sure enough I booked the wrong city and we needed to pivot. We walked a little farther finding a store/counter cafe and had to pull our guidebook out and find lodging. We were in the middle of nowhere.

    Pilgrims were pouring in soaking wet and miserable. And in walks our 9x Camino pilgrims Rich, Karen and Lisa and they are in their 60’s and they were done for the day.

    We had found a new place, somehow got a cab ordered to the next town, and we invited them to share the ride with us to Fonria.

    We got dropped off at a brand spanking new, just built, most beautiful Casa Galego. We both got our own rooms across the hall, showered, and promptly did our laundry and tried to dry everything out.

    The Casa Galego had 8 rooms with a large ground floor table. A woman built and ran the entire Casa including cooking all the food. It was so unfortunate as the views would have been outstanding on top of the mountain but it was clouds and rain, fog and very high winds.

    At dinner we met our fellow pilgrims that made to this place. A 21 yr old girl from Netherlands, a man from Finland, two young guys from Brazil, a woman from CA, and a woman from Korea.

    We all ate together and soon we were all playing uno and drinking wine. Another highlight on our trip. We would probably still be playing if Joan didn’t knock over and break her wine glass, promptly ending our night with hugs all around.

    Sine we had taxied to Fonfria, wonlonly had 9km
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  • Päivä 23

    Day 19- to Vega de Valcarce

    18. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Left Villafranca after a wonderful hotel breakfast, one of the best we have had on the trail to date. Once again, we got a late start.

    We had planned to take the scenic route out of town, but we missed the turn. However we had a beautiful walk following the river, dodging a few cars on the road.

    It rained, sun came out, rained again…sun. All day. We walked into a village within 1km of where we had planned to stay and caught a cafe that was not on siesta, with one table outside in the sun, and we enjoined a delightful lunch. Our Camino friend Carol from UK, joined us for a snack before she went on her way.

    We walked in sunshine up to our town of Vega de Valcarce and to our lovely rooms with an adjoining balcony overlooking the river. We had time to hang our clothes, make a run for supplies and enjoyed our end of day cerveza at our hacienda at a table down by the river.

    While we were enjoying a fiesty game of uno, an older couple who lived across the river, offered us some fruit from their trees down by the river. They didn’t speak English, but motioned to us to cross the river to meet them where they shared some of their fruits. We had no idea what fruits they were, but Joan jumped right into a plum/fig looking fruit and took a bite. They were pleased.

    We were advised that a restaurant in our little town had outstanding paella. We made our way there for dinner and enjoyed a lovely dinner of paella marisco (seafood) and Sangria.

    After dinner Joan and I picked up our game of Uno and soon a French couple pulled their chairs over to join us. They spoke fluent Uno, but not much English. It was a wonderful Camino experience. We also met Julie from Taiwan. All in all a great day. We walked around 18km/11 miles.

    We are getting closer to Santiago.

    Buen Camino!
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  • Päivä 22

    Day 18 - To Villafranca

    17. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    We had great intentions of leaving early, however that did not happen. We made it downstairs around 8:30 and even though we told them we didn’t want breakfast, Ana our hostess, had breakfast all laid out for just us. We did not want to hurt her feelings, so we had coffee, toast and jam.

    Because we were so late we used google translate to have her order us a taxi to take us 5km up the road to the next town - Ponferadda.

    Arriving in Ponferrada, we saw their ancient castle and saw their beautiful church. And we began our walk of 24+ Km for the day.

    Highlights of our 9am-5pm hike were as follows: a chicken burrito, our first winery, village church, joan fed the feral cats, and we had more hills than we thought. We walked more road today than the previous three weeks of walking the Camino.

    Arriving in Villafranca del BIERZO, a picturesque medieval town, nestled in the mountains where old Spain has been restored for all the pilgrims to enjoy.

    We walked thru the village, and found the 1st bar on the right for our first cerveza of the day. We encounterd many pilgrims we knew from along the road, and one of our favorites, Carol from Wales, joined us for dinner. It was a wonderful night.

    Tomorrow we need to do at least 23km and trying to get an early start. Have a great day.

    Also…Julie figured out to watch Hallmark movies on YouTube and it’s brought a little bit of home to us as we unwind from the road.

    Buen Camino!
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  • Päivä 21

    Day 17 - We climbed down to Molinaseca

    16. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    With a short hike in front of us today, we slept in a bit (8am), and got out the door by 9:30. The mountains and beautiful view that was covered with clouds and rain yesterday, greeted us as we began our day.

    What started out as an easy hike with gorgeous views, turned into a fairly treacherous decline over several miles. We picked our steps very carefully relying on our poles for additional support.

    Special note: Julie made Joan watch a YouTube video on how to operate her trekking poles and Eileen and Colleen really stepped up today.

    We made incredible time with no rain and cool weather. We ran into our Camino friend Patricia, and decided to slow down and really help her make it down the mountain as she was very nervous and all by herself.

    Together we walked into Molinaseca and actually made it in time for lunch before Siesta (we only found one restaurant/bar open on Monday). Another friend from Alaska, Crystal joined us and we had our first Sangria.

    Joan and l got a siesta in, and as a pilgrims job is never done, we have some shopping to do and to explore the town, and find dinner before we do it all again tomorrow.

    We appreciate everyone’s responses. We read all of them- and they will also be included in our book when this is completed. So thank you for all of the support, prayers and encouragement.

    We still like each other and are having an absolutely fantastic time.

    Buen Camino!
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  • Päivä 20

    Day 16 - We climbed up to Acebo

    15. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    We walked out of Susana’s Albergue this morning, right on time at 7:30 am, ready to roll-and we stopped 10’ from the door to admire her grape trees and pear trees, which is so typical of how our Camino has been. We stop dilly dally and look at things and we go on our way.

    Well…It didn’t take long for our 2nd stop of the day, around the corner in Rabanal, we stopped for coffee and met Karen & Rich from Rhode Island.

    They have done the Camino 9x and advised that we don’t attempt to walk over the mountain in a single day. Mackenzie also texted Joan and suggested we stop in Acebo 18km in. So emboldened with this new plan, we secured lodging in Acebo and left the coffee shop full of energy for our now very doable day.

    It was very cloudy, misty, cold and then the rain came. We quickly slipped into our rain pants and raincoats and walked, and walked, and walked. Uphill, downhill, over and over again.

    A highlight of the day was the Iron Cross at the highest point of the Camino. It is called the Cruz de Ferro. And people from all over the world bring a rock from home and carry it with them from the beginning of their journey. When you reach the cross, you lay your rock and say your prayers to the Lord for blessings and gratitude. With the foggy mist and a Peruvian flute player it was one of our most spiritual moments. Joan found an amazing spot for her rock.

    We thought we would be hiking to Acebo about 14kms in, however 20km/ 12.5m later we walked into the small town. Enjoyed our celebratory beer, found our Albergue, and attempted to dry out.

    We enjoyed a lovely Pilgrims meal with our new friends from WI, Wales, New Mexico and west of England. It was great conversation and better than usual food.

    200+km to Santiago!
    Buen Camino
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  • Päivä 19

    Day 15 - Nice hike to Rabanal

    14. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    21.8 km / 13.5 mile hike today. We slept in a bit and left Astorga around 9 am as we knew it was a flat’ish, country hike today. Weather cooperated today and we soon peeled off our cool morning clothes for shorts and t’s, as the weather was high 60s and a beautiful day for a long walk.

    As always, the last 5-10km is always the hardest and we had to grind. Sun was hot and flies were thick. We kept trucking on, and passing thru a run down, one horse town, El Ganso, we noticed a street vendor (the only person we saw in the entire town). He had some interesting jewelry. Julie ended up finding two beautiful crosses.

    As per usual, we hobbled into town- Rabanel, later than all other pilgrims. But this time, we were cheered on by earlier pilgrims already showered, clean clothes on the line and out exploring the village (their journaling/reflecting was probably already done as well).

    We found the closest bar (in this town of 50 people), and they were closing for siesta (of course they were) and they were super friendly and kind and we enjoyed our much looked forward to cerveza after our long hike.

    We checked into our Albergue, which was referrred to us from another fullly booked Albergue. This lady, Susana, has not yet opened her two rooms above her small store for customers. We believe we are one of her first customers.

    We had reserved one room with a full bed and private bath. Upon arrival, the bed was very tiny with a single pillow. We decided to ask Susana, (and yes we sang Oh Susana for the last 5km), if her other room across the hall was available, and she said it was. For the very first time in over two weeks, Joan and I now have our very own rooms.

    At 7pm we attended a pilgrims mass/Liturgy of the hours, at the Benedictine Monastery in town. Hearing the mass and prayers in multiple languages is truly a transforming and spiritual experience. It was the cap to a day of the Lords presence in our lives. We saw multiple churches, and people of God that have touched us forever.

    Our dinner next to church was one of our best. Joan continues to out drink and eat me- it’s alarming. Tomorrow we climb the mountains (that we don’t know their name). And it is a long steep, 26+km / 15+ miles up and down. Wish us luck!

    Buen Camino!
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  • Päivä 18

    Day 14 - First rainy hike, Astorga

    13. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    We were excited to bring out our rain gear. First time in over two weeks in Spain. We covered up our bags, bodies and kept trucking on.

    We completed 24km/15 miles and got into Astorga with enough time to visit the Gaudi Palace, Astorga cathedral and the Camino museum. Julie was serenaded by a local artist after steep climb into the city.

    In Astorga we have an apartment in town right by the square. It’s a cute place and we were pleased to see they had laundry machine and a rack to dry our clothes.

    We just finished dinner 8:45 pm and we would rather be asleep, but once again nothing is open until 8pm. We continue to be underwhelmed by the every day fare in Spain. It’s not what we were expecting. Things would be so much better if Joan would have studied a little harder in school for her three years of Spanish.

    We have past countless chocolate shops and this town seems to be famous for their chocolate. So one quick stop for chocolate, and then we are off to bed.

    We have another 20+ km/per day for the next few days as we climb back into the mountains. Weather will be cloudy, rainy and cool. Joan sure is wishing she did not leave her “puffy coat” in Pamplona.

    Buen Camino!
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  • Päivä 17

    Day 13 - Leon last rest day.

    12. lokakuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    At 7 am Joan woke up to make her Physio appointment. Where she had to walk across desolate city streets to a place unknown in search of relief to her aching buttocks and hip. Julie slept.

    Surprisingly, Joan was able to follow her GPS and locate her Physio for a much needed stretch. The stretcher, was a 50yr old Spaniard, who made Joan a bit nervous, but all ended well and she came out of it feeling better yet 50 euros lighter.

    Upon her return to hotel, Julie and Joan planned their next day (a Pilgrims work is never done), and they set out for breakfast and to explore the city. After a lovely outdoor breakfast cafe, gazing upon the Cathedral, we decided to take a tour of the Cathedral. We spent the next two hours enjoying the history, art, and beauty of our savior Jesus Christ. It was our favorite Church of the Camino.

    After our tour, and meeting several pilgrims- and a quick tutorial on how to wear their backpacks (another story), we found our way to another MacKenzie suggestion and stopped at Topo, which we thought would be a quick refreshment. Little did we know when you ordered a beer you received two free slices of pizza. We were in heaven playing Uno, drinking beer, and gazing at the beautiful Cathedral and people watching. 3+ hours flew by.

    We decided we needed to see more of the city of Leon, and we set out for an adventure. That adventure led us to more Uno and another church.

    We needed food, we circled old town in search of food, and finally found a place we liked that was open at 7:30 pm, and we ended up in a hole in the wall that was amazing. Grilled artichoke snd Jamon, and grilled Squid plus a local wine- a perfect end to our Leon “rest day”!

    Tomorrow we hike to Astorga. We miss walking. That is the truth. Back on the Camino tomorrow.

    Buen Camino!
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