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Camino de Santiago 2023

May 2023 - May 2024
An open-ended adventure by Kate Read more
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  • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2023
    1
    11
    Day 6

    Day 2: La Vierge to Roncesvalles, part 2

    May 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    There were two choices of route down from Col Lepoeder. The easier and longer route, or the shorter and much steeper path. I chose the latter because the guidebook told me that it would take me through one of the largest remaining beech forests in Europe. This tree hugger is always going to choose that path! Anyway, the author didn’t lie about the steepness or the forest. That first mile was HARD. Pole set-pole set-baby step-baby step-baby step, repeat. I was so very grateful for those poles and for shoes that fit properly! I managed not to fall even once, which was a concern. It did continue down for the remaining 1.5 miles or so, but it wasn’t nearly as difficult.

    The forest, though! I’ve wanted to walk through a forest like that my whole life. So beautiful and peaceful. The tree cover is quite dense, so not much growing on the ground. The path was covered in a carpet of squishy leaves at times, which felt nice for my tired feet.

    Although I would’ve liked to have stayed there forever, I was also very happy to arrive at the albergue. It was huge! It’s a former monastery that sleeps hundreds of pilgrims. The army of hospitaleros was very helpful. I showered, washed my clothes, rested, and then ate at the pilgrims’ dinner. I ate at a table with three Belgians, two French people, a German, and a Colombian. They spoke a lot of French but it was fun to watch one of the very expressive Belgian men talk. I watched enviously as the Belgian woman switched between French, English, and Spanish effortlessly. The meal was simple but provided lots of carbohydrates for the next day. I was very pleased to have a vegetarian option.

    I didn’t get a picture of my bed, but it was a lower bunk, thank goodness, one of two bunk beds a cubicle. Lots of cubicles and people on the floor, so more snoring, but my Loop earplugs continue to impress.

    1. I can’t help it! But these trees were a welcome distraction from the tough hike.
    2. And 3. More forest
    4. and 5. Buildings at Roncesvalles. You see the white dormitory building on the right in #5. I’m not sure the pic shows just how huge these buildings are.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2023
    1
    Day 6

    End Day 1/Beginning Day 2

    May 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Yesterday’s walk ended with a wait for the shuttle bus back to Saint Jean. I was very cold as it was a bit windy and cold, plus I had sweated and then stopped moving. I was huddled up with my rain poncho on for warmth when another pilgrim joined me to wait. I commented on how cold it was, and she laughed at me. Turns out that Caroline is from Quebec, so she no doubt thought it was balmy! We had another good laugh on the shuttle; the drivers whip up and down the one-lane road, which is next to a sheer drop for much of the route we were on. Caroline muttered, “Please don’t kill me!” I said, “Man, wouldn’t it be something to die after all of that?!” And then we laughed and laughed. Maybe you had to be there! This morning’s commute was even scarier, with a passing situation that had me pretty worried! I guess I’m pretty thoroughly a flat-lander at this point.

    Obviously we didn’t die, and I made it to my gite (hostel), which was really nice. The volunteer host was Oili, a very kind Finnish yoga teacher. I was just exhausted after 3 hours sleep the night before and then the long climb, so I was asleep by 7:00. I did awaken a few times, but I’m pretty sure I got in 10 hours before 6:00 this morning. I feel so much better!

    I shared a dormitory with six other people. Only one of them snored, and he wasn’t too close to me, so it wasn’t too bad. Very cozy. Oili served breakfast and coffee and then led a “Pilgrim Ceremony.” (It was most people’s first day.) This was a mindfulness exercise mixed with a benediction of sorts and ended with a recording of John Denver singing “Sweet, Sweet Surrender.” It was nice. The best part of the morning was cake for breakfast! One of the offerings was a cake I saw in the bakeries, too. Not sure if it was a Basque thing or the tarte de Santiago, but it was delicious.

    1. The view of Saint Jean from the gite’s patio.
    2. My little bunk for the night. I was happy to get to choose a lower bunk.
    3. A house in Saint Jean. No, I wasn’t drunk - the street really is that steep! I appreciated the commitment to flowers.
    4. Even the weeds are pretty in this part of France! I also saw this flower in the mountains today.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2023
    1
    111
    Day 7

    Day 3: Roncesvalles to Viscarret-Guerend

    May 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    Mileage: 8 miles
    Elevation gain: 699 feet
    Elevation loss: 2479 feet
    Weather: cool and breezy, overcast until the very end

    I am SORE today from the mountains! Quads and calves in particular were not interested in today’s downhill adventures. I had planned a short day, fortunately, and I knew that I couldn’t check in to tonight’s guest house until 1:00, so I took it really slow and enjoyed the views.

    I had breakfast at the albergue. Cake again! I sat next to the same French woman as last night. She’s probably in her 70s and started her Camino in Le Puy, France 36 days ago! Inspiring.

    Today’s walk was bucolic - lots of forest again plus rolling farmland. Another day with a cowbell soundtrack. It was cool enough that I was glad to have my gloves and hood on most of the day, but that really is excellent walking weather!

    1. As proud as I am to have walked over the Pyrenees (!) the last two days, I left this morning to this reminder that I have a long way to go yet!
    2. and 3. Views of the morning
    4. 5. and 6. Espinal-Aurizberri. Lots of bicycles zipping down that road.
    7. A tough hill but so pretty
    8. Another kind of cathedral
    9. So many wildflowers right now
    10. Near Viskarret    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2023
    Day 7

    Day 3 End

    May 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    I arrived in Viskarret just in time to check in to my guest house. I was glad to follow my instincts instead of Google, which for some reason wanted to send me down the street to the wrong place. I had my first full conversation in Spanish with my host, and I estimate that I understood 90% of what she said. She was nice about it! As you’ll see here, my private bedroom is lovely, and I’ll be the only one snoring! Not every night’s accommodation will be interesting enough to note, but I have to tell you about my culinary adventure.

    There isn’t much in this village and I don’t think the bar is open for dinner. The guest house has a kitchen with basic tools plus oil, vinegar, and salt. I walked down to the supermercado to find the door locked. A Californian woman found the owner and established that the store was indeed open and we were able to shop. I kind of thought the shop was about to close (this was unclear) so I hurried to make my choices.

    It felt like a Guy Fieri challenge! Time clock running, I couldn’t find a produce section or frozen veggies, no processed food (I didn’t feel like a frozen pizza), and anything I buy I need to be able to eat or carry with me, which eliminates seasonings. What would you cook?

    I grabbed a packet of spaghetti, a can of whole tomatoes, a can of beans, a jar of pepper strips, a bit of cheese, and a baguette and a yogurt for breakfast. The baguettes were in a basket, no little bags, so I then walked back to my guest house carrying a baguette. The cost was just over 10 euros.

    I cooked the spaghetti while I broke down and cooked the tomatoes and added salt plus the rest of the ingredients for a sauce. Only used half the beans and a small amount of the peppers, but hopefully someone can use the rest of the peppers. I can finish the cheese tomorrow. It wasn’t bad! was hungry, though, so most things would’ve tasted good.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2023
    Day 8

    Day 4: Viskarret to Larrasoaña

    May 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    Mileage: 10.5
    Elevation gain: 1,217
    Elevation loss: 2,152
    Weather: much warmer, but a lot of shade
    Total Mileage: 34.25
    Another beautiful day! I’m glad I had a room to myself last night as I’m sure I groaned every time I rolled over - still quite sore. I’m feeling stronger, though, and today’s 10+ was easier than yesterday’s 8.
    The first 2 miles ascended today, with more farmland and forest. The middle was more gentle, hill-wise. I stopped at a permanent food truck (“kioska”) around the top of the day’s hike for a sandwich, banana, and a coffee, which gave me a nice boost before a pretty grueling rocky descent. I stopped in the town of Zubiri for another snack and then walked the sunniest last miles to Larrasoaña.

    Since my start and stop points today are in between the guidebook stages, today was mostly solitary, which is excellent for contemplation, and also for pit stops! I do find that I’m talking to myself more; I’ve named my feet and talk to them, too. Hal has some issues but we’re working through it. My overwhelming emotion as I walk is gratitude that I am able to be here doing this amazing thing.

    1. Farmland to start
    2. Looking back over the hill I was climbing.
    3. Forest along the climb
    4. This rocky descent was tricky but I was VERY glad I wasn’t doing it in the rain. Those rocks would’ve been slick!
    5. My <cough> lunch in Zubiri. Amazing. That bun tasted even better than it looks.
    6. The track goes through an industrial area on and near a road after Zubiri.
    7. Looking back at another descent.
    8. The portion after the industrial area was really delightful. The shade was welcome.
    9. More farmland.
    10. My favorite part of the walk today.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2023
    2
    11
    Day 9

    Day 5: Larrasoaña to Pamplona

    May 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Mileage: 10.25
    Elevation gain: 833
    Elevation loss: 1,007
    Weather: beautiful! Partly sunny with a cool breeze
    Total mileage: 44.5

    More beautiful weather and scenery. This won’t always be true, so I am savoring it while I can. I was awake before the roosters (and the snorers in my dormitory!) so I was ready to hit to hit the road at 7 this morning. I didn’t *need* to leave so early, but it was cool and crisp with lovely early morning light, so I was happy to be out. I stopped for cafe con leche and Spanish tortilla for breakfast a few miles in.

    Much less climbing and downhill today, although there was still some! The walk along the wheat field was one of my favorite sections so far. Some of the Pamplona portion wasn’t very pretty, but it’s all still very interesting. I’m in a hotel tonight with a day off tomorrow; both of those things feel odd at this point but very welcome. I was as happy to see the bathtub as I’ve ever been to see an inanimate object. I’m going in search of tapas tonight!

    1. Beautiful light this morning.
    2. I don’t get tired of this kind of trail.
    3. Hilly but pretty
    4. Lots of poppies and wheat today. I loved both but the combination!!
    5. Looking over the Arga valley
    6. Not sure if this was a farmhouse or a church
    7. Lots of this yellow bush today. I don’t think it’s forsythia? Maybe gorse? Smells nice and cheered me on up this hill.
    8. The medieval (!) bridge that took me into Pamplona    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2023
    1
    14
    Day 10

    Day 6: Pamplona rest day

    May 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    A little break from the Camino today partly to rest up for tomorrow’s long day up and down a mountain. I was happy to get some extra sleep and see some of the sights.

    1. I had to rely on Google a bit more here - this part of the city definitely isn’t built on a grid. More more interesting visually, though!
    2. A few Art Nouveau touches here and there. Be sure to zoom in on the interior of this pharmacy.
    3. and 4. From the Museo del Navarre
    5. The bust of Hemingway outside of the Plaza de Toros. I was surprised to see that it isn’t a full statue complete with muscular thighs. Machismo to spare here!
    6. 7. 8. 9. Details from around the city. 6. Is a type of knocker I’ve seen a lot here but this is an especially nice one. (Insert joke here.)
    10. I suck at selfies but look who I found! I’m very happy to have my friend Angela as a companion for the next couple of weeks. We have already started doing our part to support the dairy industry of Spain.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2023
    11
    Day 11

    Day 7: Pamplona to Puenta la Reina

    May 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Mileage: 15 miles
    Altitude gain: 1,565
    Altitude loss: 1,824
    Weather: cloudy to start, sunny to finish, with the cool wind miraculously at our backs
    Total mileage: 54.5

    We left Pamplona early (7:00) since it was going to be the longest day yet for me. I’ve been worried for a long time about Alto del Perdon, the mountain in the middle of the stage. The word was that the ascent isn’t too bad, but that the descent is steep, rocky, and tricky. Well, as with many things on this journey so far, I discovered that my worry was outsized. The ascent wasn’t bad at all, and the descent was easier than the one from Col Lepoeder the other day. What a relief! That said, I am very grateful to have not walked down that rocky hill in the rain/mud!

    This was my first full guidebook “stage,” and therefore my longest walk yet. I was thankful for company! Hopefully I’ll get used to this kind of mileage, but this first long day was tough both mentally and physically, and I was glad for the giggling breaks along the way!

    1. The walk out of Pamplona
    2. Low clouds obscured the mountains in the morning
    3. So many more poppies! I told Angela that if I thought I could get back up I would lie down, pretend to sleep, and have her take a Wizard of Oz shot of me. Ha. So beautiful. I just love that shade of red.
    4. Angela found her European pied de terre.
    5. Several villages along the way with their imposing churches. The church bells are always very different than what I’m used to - they’re not synthesized or large, and they sound like it. Almost like the school bell on Little House on the Prairie.
    6. The top of Alto del Perdon has a sculpture of pilgrims in front of which it is de rigeur to pose. I was very happy to be there after seeing so many pictures and reading about it. What you can’t see are the wind turbines nearby; they’re surprisingly loud!
    7. I couldn’t really capture the vistas from the mountains with my phone camera. We kept stopping to admire, but any photos just don’t do the views justice. Here’s one anyway of the view looking over our afternoon’s walk.
    8. The path was just lined with wildflowers.
    9. More poppies and wheat. I can see why Monet was inspired.
    10. Some of the last hills before Puenta la Reina. It looks like maybe this was one of the areas to have forest fires last year. I hope there isn’t more of that this year.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2023
    1
    2111
    Day 12

    Day 8: Puenta la Reina to Villatuerta

    May 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Mileage: 12 miles
    Elevation gain:
    Elevation loss:
    Weather: mostly cloudy, cool and breezy. So lucky so far, knock wood!
    Total mileage: 66.5 miles

    We enjoyed cafes con leche at our very nice hotel/albergue this morning before hitting the road. More coffees and pastries along the way, of course! Puenta la Reina is a very pretty village, and we enjoyed walking through it. Another day of farmland, trees, and lots of flowers. Each village we walked through was on a hill, which makes sense from a defensive point of view but made for a hilly day! We saw wheat and barley (thanks, Brad!), beans, olives, grapes, baby sunflowers, and tree fruit growing. Tonight we’re staying in a rustic place called Albergue La Casa Mágica, and we’re looking forward to a long day with a climb tomorrow.

    1. Iglesia del Crucifijo in Puenta la Reina. Lots of birds’ nests on top!
    2. The Roman bridge that gives the town its name. Impressive!
    3. This climb/forest reminded us of Colorado.
    4. More of the broom bushes (thanks, Sharon!) although we have decided that they’re called nature’s jazz hands. When the sun shines on them, they just glow!
    5. We walked around a corner, saw the town of Cirauqui on this hilltop, and started laughing. The views here continue to blow us away.
    6. Parroquia de San Salvador in Lorca
    7. More poppies today. They don’t get old!
    8. Underpass shortly before Villatuerta.
    9. Camino marking along the way today
    10. La Casa Màgica serves vegetarian paella each night. That largest pan is at least three feet across! We’re still waiting to eat as I type. We’re hungry so it will be good!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2023
    2
    1
    Day 13

    Day 9: Villatuerta to Los Arcos

    May 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Mileage: 17+ miles, some unintentional!
    Altitude gain: 1.890 feet
    Altitude loss: 1,775 feet
    Weather : gorgeous - a little too sunny and warm for a little while in the afternoon but then the clouds came back and it was perfect. Continued luck!
    Total mileage: 83.5

    A long day! We started with a little detour to get our morning cafe con leche and pastry (a necessary ritual at this point!) and then walked to Estella. On the outskirts of Estella we enjoyed the wine fountain (!) at Irache before some ascending hiking through a scrubby forest. Lots more farmland after that until we finally arrived in Los Arcos. We have decided that the best meals are enjoyed by the side of the trail.

    1. Angela pours some wine into her shell at Irache.
    2. The monastery at Irache
    3. Forest
    4. Beautiful mountains in the distance today
    5. Yes, more poppies
    6. Down and back up midday - beautiful curves from a distance
    7., 8., 9. More lovely views at every turn
    10. *This* is how I imagined the Camino! There will be lots of this later but the variety was nice today.    Read more

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