A new walk in the south of France, another pilgrim route from Arles to Lodeve, then 10 days walking the Camino in Spain that we missed last year, on the meseta from Burgos to Leon. Looking forward to another spring walk with the green crops! Read more
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  • Day 41

    Wonderful last day in Paris

    Yesterday in France ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Last night after the flight delay, we didn’t check in to the hotel till after midnight (after walking 1.8 kms through terminal 2 to get to the little train shuttle that took us to terminal 3 where our hotel is!!) so we slept in till about 8.30 this morning, and felt very leisurely as we didn’t have to pack or check out…

    We got the RER to the city, and our first mission was to collect a watch Amr had taken when we first arrived for repair…long story, but it hadn’t come back from where it was sent…(I wonder if Amr will ever see it again..), but they were officially closed today and at first were very offhand till one person tried to be helpful…so that wasn’t a great start to the day, but then things improved greatly! The watch people said May 20 is a French holiday - they didn’t know why, and I must look it up…but anyway, Paris was surprisingly manageable, and not fighting crowds etc, which was good.

    Our next goal was to go to Chez Denise to see if we could make a reservation for dinner tonight…but when we arrived the whole entrance was blocked off with black covers..and they were filming..(we found out it was for a film about de Gaulle)…we couldn’t even enquire or go in at all…one person said she thought they would be open tonight…so that was another not so good thing, but we did keep positive about the chance of going tonight, but it was an uncertainty! Then we stopped for coffee and pastries having not had dinner last night, and only a mandarin and banana at the hotel, much needed.

    After that we had a shopping mission to Galeries Lafayette…quite a session there - the enfant floor to find something for Amr’s godson Harry’s daughter, the Mariage Freres section for Amr’s special teas, and the perfume section for Denise….After that we (I) was weak from hunger and shopping (not really my thing) and we went to a favourite cafe near the Opera and had a perfect “French” lunch of onion soup and a goat’s cheese salad and a glass of rosé. That was perfect, and we were both rejuvenated. Even enough to have a look into Uniqlo! On our way from there to the Tuileries where we planned to sit and read, Amr spotted a man carrying a TWG bag, which is a very special tea shop that he didn’t know was in Paris. So he asked the man where it was and it is a special shop in the Ritz, in their gallery of special shops!! So with heads held high we marched into the Ritz, asked where to find it and walked the hallowed halls…very beautiful, and Amr bought more tea, and also coffee at another shop!!

    After all that excitement we did go and sit and read on chairs round the pond in the Tuileries until the weather changed (which had been predicted - we even took umbrellas) so we scuttled with everyone before there was a downpour, and found a cafe where we took refuge in an upstairs hideaway, had a drink and didn’t actually notice much rain, but when we emerged there were puddles everywhere, but again we were lucky as it stopped by then and I never did use my umbrella!

    We then thought we’d try our luck with Chez Denise, found it open - or not open, but people there and all the film covers gone, and made a booking for 7.30…a wait of about 45 minutes..so we wandered in the Forum Les Halle’s which is now an enormous Westfield mall and rather ghastly, but we discovered we could pick up the RER back to CDG from there - the dread Chatelet/Les Halles metro and RER interchange which we have many times got lost in - but it looked straightforward- and after dinner we tried it and it worked and we were expressed back to the hotel.

    To fill in more time till 7.30 we looked into the enormous church we always see near there - St Eustache…it is huge, and beautiful, and we managed to see and admire before it closed for the day. Then we went back to Chez Denise and had, as usual, a wonderful meal. You always get chatting to your neighbours as you are so close, and we had 2 Frenchmen next to us, then at their table a young couple from HongKong were seated next to them…so they were delighted to have Australia on one side and HongKong on the other, and very good ambiance. We had the chef’s terrine and the kidneys (they are big servings and we now know to share) and I had to have their enormous ile flottante!! I have to add that I don’t have my phone with me so Amr is in charge of the pics and will not wait till you are posed and smiling…)

    Anyway, a lovely end to the day, now back and semi packed ready to start the big flights home tomorrow morning.
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  • Day 40

    Last day in Spain

    May 19 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We have had a fantastic last day, but now we are sitting at the airport, flight delayed by 45 minutes, so will write up now and try and remember what we did. Tonight we fly to Paris and stay at a CDG airport hotel for 2 nights, and begin the voyage home on Tuesday, arriving in SYD on Wednesday. So tomorrow we have a last Paris day!

    So this morning we first went to the best pastry shop, La Mallorquina, in Sol, and had THE best pastry, then off to THE best churros place, and had fresh OJ, churros, chocolate (the thick dipping sort) and coffee! So a very satisfying start. The Spanish pastries had not been up to scratch, but today redeemed them. Then we went back to the hotel to pack our bags, and leave there for the afternoon, as we had to check out of the room.

    Then we were free, and walked quite a lot. First to the Plaza de España where we sat down and had a little kindle read…always lots happening there. Today was a Ukrainian gathering…not a noisy protest as such, but they were singing what sounded like a national anthem…then as we were leaving we had to wait while a procession of vintage cars (20s and 30s Amr says) drove past, with vintage people, and honking their horns. Then we walked back up the Gran Via which for some unknown reason was closed to cars - normal later when we were there - maybe some important person was going to drive through…anyway, all very pleasant, lots of people enjoying Sunday morning…we walked down to the beautiful boulevards with a central park near the museums, then back and went for some lunch at the crazy and busy bar we were at last night.

    We picked just the right time, as we got seats outside in the shade, on stools beside a barrel, perfect view of the whole scene. So we ordered the wonderful prawns in garlic oil we’d seen being cooked last night (I think everyone was having them, they are so delicious) and we had a last serve of perfectly cooked chiperones a la plancha. As crazy as ever - so many people piling into the small inside bar that we thought it must lead to a secret dining room, but no, they were all squeezed in standing and eating and drinking!

    Then we went back to Sol and sat and read…need to finish the book reading book…then bought some mandarins and mineral water (necessities for Amr!) and picked up bags and made our way to the airport. Very easy and efficient by metro, and here we are at the gate with extra time on our hands, so will post this using the airport wifi.
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  • Day 39

    Back in Madrid for 1 night

    May 18 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Not a lot to say for today…we had a last walk round Córdoba in the lovely morning sun before getting our train back here…whizzing along at 270 kms/hr. Checked into our hotel, managed to outwit pickpockets in the metro from Atocha back to Sol (the same crowded Saturday afternoon line as a year ago! ) . Poor Omnia had a problem as somehow her booking (not in our place) had been cancelled…some stuff up, but she managed to get a room in an airport hotel which actually was better as she has a 6am flight…so we walked around, Amr bought some shoes, and we had a little dinner at a favourite Basque tapas bar, had an ice cream at a popular Italian helado place which always has a queue, and she got a taxi to the airport - easier than at 3am!

    Sol is always crowded, and this being Saturday especially so. And there was a pro Palestinian rally going on adding to the noise and people! Amr and I wandered round a bit longer, wandering via plaza Santa Ana, and little streets that we remember, and ended up having a glass of wine standing in a bar as we weren’t eating, and before we knew it it totally filled with so many people, and we watched the process of cooking the garlic prawns and much seafood on the plancha…we will go back tomorrow to eat ….

    Now back - Amr is still spluttering, hope the Madrid air will improve him tomorrow…still cloudless and beautiful weather. We needn’t have brought ponchos, or even umbrellas!
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  • Day 38

    Last day in Córdoba and the south

    May 17 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Another lovely day. We met Omnia at 9, had breakfast and headed off towards the Jewish quarter again, hoping to beat the crowds in the narrow streets…and we did..very successful - we found the synagogue which is hard when tour groups are blocking the way, very old and interesting - only one of the 3 synagogues left in Spain. Then we went to the Alcázar of the Christian kings…another big fortress, but not Arabic style. And no long queue to get in, though quite a lot of people and school groups, and we got in free - being jubilados- retired!! It was a good visit, and a tower to climb with great views (and not so high that it was a huge effort to climb). Then that led on to the alcazar gardens which were almost the highlight. Beautifully laid out, the ubiquitous orange trees, sculpted cypresses, and others - flowers in bloom, and importantly the fountains were founting - the look of them and the tinkling of the water is such a pleasure - calming and beautiful. Then visited the Khalifa baths (also free jubilados)…ruins from the Islamic period.

    So a lovely morning, and we stopped for bocadillos and coffee/colacao and a break. Then back on the trail to wander some more and find interesting places. Omnia parted from us after a while to do her own things, and Amr and I pursued the churches listed as good to visit and on the list with the Mesquita ticket…but only found one open, a lovely one, but after that they all seemed to be having a siesta…but we had fun wandering in different streets from our usual circuit, and where normal Cordoba residents seemed to be living and having their normal lives….stopped for another refreshment and back in room for downtime.

    Still perfect weather, doesn’t get too hot. Clouds floating around, but no imminent rain and mostly sunny. Amr is suffering terribly from spring allergies which is driving him mad with an annoying cough and runny nose and we hope this will improve tomorrow when we go to Madrid. It has only been since we came south, and this time last year he was fine in Madrid…so here’s hoping. Meeting Omnia at 7 for our last dinner here, then get a train late tomorrow morning back to Madrid.

    …I had published, but just have to add that we had the most perfect dinner! Amr and I had seen areas off the tourist track which looked fun and when we went there at about 7.30 all was a bit quiet, but we decided to sit at one place and try…and had a drink and asked for menu and it was different from the usual things we had kept having…still Spanish style but with little twists…Spanish fusion? Anyway, it was amazing, and such a lovely end to our Córdoba experience…by the time we left, people were queuing up and waiting for us to pay and leave…such luck and a perfect evening!
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  • Day 37

    Lovely day in Córdoba

    May 16 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    It is my birthday and has been an excellent day, and it hasn’t finished yet. We met Omnia for a leisurely breakfast around 8.30 in the little bakery attached to, but not part of, the hotel. Then we set off walking, via the tourist info which gave us a better map, and we discovered that our Mesquita tickets also qualify us for entrance to many churches dotted around the town. And it doesn’t have to be today…perfect.

    There are many little narrow streets, and flowers and courtyards, so pretty. We wandered down to the river, and walked over the Roman bridge and up the tower at the end, which is a museum plus a lovely view from the not very high top. We then walked through the old Jewish area, which was quite crowded - round the bridge, the Jewish quarter, the Mesquita and the alcazar is where the hordes go, but still not quite as confronting as Seville and Granada. And the weather remains kind - the same cool to start, and never getting too hot…

    Stopped for refreshments- croquetas - this time with prawn and spinach - and then went to the Mesquita for our 2pm time slot…we had bought tickets online, but of course found out today that for this we could have got them on the spot!! Oh well…it was easy. And very popular…many many people, but this is such a vast area it doesn’t feel too crowded. It was built as a huge mosque in 788 AD with many columns, and when the Christians overthrew the Arabs they turned it into a huge cathedral in the 1200s. It is an extraordinary building, with the columns and lamps like a mosque, then you find a gothic cathedral structure all amongst it. Fortunately they kept a lot the beautiful Islamic decoration…it is a huge area, and there are chapels all around the edge. It is hard to describe, and impossible to take photos that capture the whole, but of course we all attempt to.

    After that, Omnia had her own wander looking at the very interesting shops and streets, and we did our own wander, ending up with downtime back at hotel. Getting ready for birthday evening!

    …Now just, and it’s after 11..late! But we had a remarkable evening. First we went to the concert we had seen a notice about at the Conservatorio Superior de Musica - featuring saxophonists. So we thought might be fun…it was free, and obviously was students practising their performing… but they were good…it went for a little over an hour, and at first I was happy, but not enthralled, but then it pepped up, and they did a version of the Tchaikovsky serenade for strings arranged for 11 saxophones, some Manuel de Falla ending with the ritual fire dance, and an encore of a Brahms Hungarian dance!! Didn’t think I’d ever hear them played by saxophonists! They were good, and got riotous applause from (I think) fellow students…Amr took a short video of the encore - (not forbidden at this sort of concert!) it isn’t in focus, but you can get a sense of the fun!

    Then we went to a restaurant where we had booked for 9.30. Really good…not posh, but obviously popular and delicious food. At that hour it was still busy, but tourists had left by then…more people walked in after us…no problem, kitchen still busy. Lovely birthday evening!
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  • Day 36

    Bus to Córdoba

    May 15 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    This morning we got up reasonably early and found a good nearby and open place for breakfast, then got a taxi to the bus station, walking up and down the four flights in the hostal for the last time! It was an interesting bus ride - again millions of olive trees, but as we moved on there were other crops, and fields of pale yellow and on closer inspection we think it was the grain crops already drying out, as it was quite deep and tall…so the green new growth maybe doesn’t last all that long, or maybe everything is a bit earlier here in the warmer south. Also fields of green potential sunflowers - just endless fields of cultivation.

    Arrived at Córdoba at a bit after one, and walked to the hotel, quite walkable distance from the bus station, and also train station where we leave from on Saturday. And we are now at a real hotel!! With lift, everything more conventional than the last 2 charming gems. But we are very well situated, and a short walk into the historic centre and all that we want to see.

    And soon after our arrival Omnia also arrived, from Madrid by train! Lovely reunion with her. And after a short pause we all walked out and first sat and had a little light refreshment…some delicious croquetas of spinach and pine nuts…great combo…to keep us going till dinner. Then we all wandered round a bit, through the very pretty narrow streets, admiring the gorgeous courtyards leading into buildings and just getting a feel of the town. We have 2 full days here, and we are booked in to see the Mesquita tomorrow - booked online after experience in Seville and Granada, but may not even have been necessary as it was easy to choose day and time!! This town has a lovely feel - not as frenetic as Seville or even Granada, and is so charming and manageable. Glad we have 3 nights here. And the temperature is even perfect…cool in morning, and not too hot at peak…

    Just back from dinner now…we had spotted a good potential place in our meandering…it was a Jewish establishment, though I hadn’t noticed that at first, but we had noticed the interesting menu posted up, and the food was delicious and a little bit different from what we have experienced in Andalusia so far. But it was a bit chaotic - we got there at about 7.30 and one poor girl was working the whole place it seemed…at about 8 more workers appeared, probably the 8 o’clock eating hour… anyway we had delicious eggplant with honey and sesame seeds (which we were offered twice more…!), patatas bravas with spicy sauce, chiperones plancha(!!!), a version of pimientos padron and all wonderful when they finally arrived. I have a very good feeling for our visit here.
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  • Day 35

    Our whole day in Granada

    May 14 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    A very good day, and we haven’t had this crazy dinner yet. But it wasn’t hot!! Bliss for me, and in fact I had to run up the 4 flight to our room when we set out this morning to get my cardigan and Amr’s puffer jacket! We took them off by midday, but I was cold in the cathedral, and the temperature never rose above mid 20s I think…perfect.

    So we had breakfast, good coffee, mediocre pastry but enough to get us walking up the hill to the mirador san Nicolas where there are rather spectacular views over to the Alhambra and down to Granada itself. Then we walked back through the Albercin area, narrow streets, very pretty and very uneven cobbles to walk on. On the way up, or earlier we stopped for coffee/chocolate and churros, and when we finally got back to the centro we had lunch…I had virtually given up calamari plancha as everywhere it is fried like you can get anywhere, but we stopped at a place that seemed frequented by locals mainly and found that after 1 pm the lunch menu would start and indeed they did do plancha…so happy and it was delicious…

    Then back to the room for a little downtime before setting off again to see the cathedral and another uphill walk, this time on the Alhambra side. The cathedral is amazing, as so many of these cathedrals are - massive and very ornate. You get an audio tour on your phone which even I could do with the help of their wifi, and we had a good visit with all the details of chapels..then we walked up the hill on the Alhambra side, and were able to walk into the gardens and some of the outer buildings, and look over to where we had looked from in the morning. So lots of uphill walking, and then a gentle walk down…had a pre dinner drink at our nearby plaza and then a relax before the dinner at 8.

    So Carmen, the wife of Manuel the owner, brought us costumes to wear…rather uncomfortable…but actually Amr looked rather dashing! We had thought that he, Manuel, and his wife and daughter, would also be at the dinner…a family dinner that his elderly mother (aged 77!!) cooked. In fact they weren’t eating with us, but there was a very nice middle aged Swiss woman, Anne, and an Asian/American couple, Carole and Sampson, who live in Seattle, and we all got along well and had lots of chat…but a bit weird, and the meal was nice, but not a dining experience! So we are now back and ready for bed…bus at 10am for Cordoba where we stay for 3 nights, and where Omnia joins us!
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  • Day 34

    Granada - still hot!

    May 13 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    This morning we had breakfast at our now favourite place - good coffee and fab OJ - not surprising in Seville, surrounded by orange orchards, and orange trees decoratively in the streets and courtyards. Then we had a last walk around - the morning air is lovely and cool, and stays pleasant until about midday when the heat sets in and gradually fades as the sun sets.

    Got a 1pm bus to Granada, arriving at 4. Drove first through orchards, some grain, and we spotted sunflowers with flowers starting to show! Yay! But then we got to olive land, (there are always some olive groves dotted around) but we came to miles and miles of olive trees, as far as the eye could see, in every hill and valley! So many! Arrived here at the bus station which is on the outskirts of the city, and thankfully never contemplated walking in…and Granada is now large…it may have been large in 1994, but now it seems bigger and busier and thronging with tourists.

    So we got a taxi and had a very entertaining driver, a bit like an old hippie, who spoke rapid Spanish non stop. Amr is very good and brave, and sounds so good that the conversation progresses in Spanish and I’m never quite sure if we missed a vital word…but Amr is also very good at picking up key words and getting the gist! So we had this crazy conversation once he found out we were Australian - his keywords were Nicole Kidman, Russell Crow, Hugh Jackman, didgeridoo, and he told us the best tapas bar to go to which would be like finding a needle in a haystack…

    But we were dropped off at another quaint hostal I had booked, again right in the centre in a tiny alley and walking distance to everything. Only downside of these charming places is there is usually not a lift, and this time we are on the fourth floor, but it is an amazing room - and you only have to carry the bags up once! Almost the same temperature here as in Seville, even though a bit mountainous, but again does cool off.

    When we came back from our first venture the actual owner was at reception, and greeted us and asked if we would like to see the rest which is like a museum. He is a lovely middle aged man, a bit crazy, and mad about medieval things…the hotel is actually about 4 terrace houses, but after covid only 2 being used as rooms, and one is the “museum” part - a dining room with extraordinary furniture, suits of armour and more, and another is an Arabic room, with Islamic furniture and artifacts…quite amazing. He said his elderly mother cooks dinner two nights a week for his family and guests who want to come, and it is a medieval feast …with costumes! We signed up for it…despite not being fancy dress people, it sounds mad and fun, so that will be an experience tomorrow night.

    Meanwhile we came back to a nearby bar which we had decided on for a meal as they had calamari a la plancha, but when we had settled in and asked for it he said no calamari today - Monday, so can’t be fresh - a good reason, we were impressed, and had a good dinner anyway. Now, having climbed our four storeys of stairs, ready for bed!
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  • Day 33

    Successful Sunday in Seville

    May 12 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    We (or I) had been a little worried how we would cope today with the heat, weekend crowds and general chaos, but we worked out a successful plan. First was a painful bit - we decided to queue for one of the 400 tickets sold on the day for the Alcazar. So, after only eating mandarins in our room we set off to join the line by 8.45 (they start selling at 9)…we were clicked off - they count off the first 400 so we knew we were in, but it was a LONG line. And it took 2 hours!!! During the time, we learnt that they require ID - to prevent scalping tickets - and my precious passport was tucked away safely in the hotel. Amr had a photo of his which is acceptable, but I hot tailed back, a little nervous that I would get lost in the labyrinth, collected passport and enjoyed the brisk walk! And gained confidence that I wasn’t too dilly and could find my way - at 9.30 the streets are deserted, except for tourists wanting to buy tickets, and shops and bars all closed, and each alley looks the same. The 9.30 bells from the Giralda bell tower of the cathedral entertained us - bells visibly swinging and ringing in every space! (See and hear video)

    After getting the precious tickets, for 3 pm when we would avoid some of the hottest part of the day, we went back to hotel to unwind, hide precious passport away, and recuperate.

    We then went to check the cathedral which had been totally sold out for visits, and discovered that there was a Mass at 1pm, and people could go in for that…so we did. We quite often attend masses on the Camino, especially with Rachel and Richard, and enjoy the peace and contemplative time, even though it is in Spanish. It was in one of the very decorated chapels, and many people were there. And when it was over, we were free to have a wonderful walk around, with many others, and admire the splendour and enormity of this cathedral in total peace. It was Amr’s inspiration that we do this and it was brilliant!

    Then time for lunch and we went to a great place where we hope to go to dinner soon, and had, finally, my chiperones a la plancha which I have been fantasising about, but which we never seem to find available. Delicious, and some cod croquetas. By then it was 3pm and time for our Alcazar visit…and of course it was just amazing. We remembered the exquisite and ornate Islamic decoration and carving…very similar to the Alhambra. So we are satisfied. The only thing missing was that the fountains in the courtyards weren’t founting…I don’t know why. I remember them as the peaceful sight and sound in the courtyards…maybe they worry in these mad times that someone will drown…anyway, after admiring the building itself, we went into the gardens of the alcazar and sat on a seat and had kindle time. Peacocks and ducks, people wandering…just a lovely time. Now back, via some hydration, and will soon set off for dinner. And tomorrow a new adventure - to Granada.
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  • Day 32

    Saturday in Seville

    May 11 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    It is siesta time (for us also!) so I will now try to remember the morning, and finish the whole day later. It was comfortably cool in the early morning, and we leisurely left the hostal at about 9 and found a bakery for coffee and pastry…good coffee, but mediocre pastry - will try a different one tomorrow (we have a high standard from France)…and wandered in the direction of the cathedral and alcazar and found there were long queues, and sold out for days…this is so different from 30 years ago, and from all the amazing cathedrals and monuments we have been visiting this trip too! It is a whole new scene for us - hot, big city, many many tourists…wonderful of course, fabulous buildings, amazing food and so many places to eat and drink.

    So I think we have sorted it out - the cathedral and alcazar are booked out on line, but for the alcazar they sell 400 tickets from 9am if you queue (so we’ll try that tomorrow) and you apparently can also queue for the cathedral, but when we went by at about 1 in the heat of the day, there was a long line that would entail standing in the sun for over an hour…that’s when we decided we needed a siesta!!

    But we did have fun this morning wandering these streets, looking at all this from the outside and not getting lost. We found our way to the bus station and booked a bus to Granada on Monday, and on the way back stopped for churros and chocolate, found a wonderful market and wandered, gazed and admired there, and stopped for a white wine and gazpacho before retreating to our sanctuary.

    I don’t do heat! After the walks on the camino I think I was perhaps less knackered than the others…I still had a spring in my step! But now, in this heat I wilt…but come to life when we sit down and refresh in a bar…we actually had a lovely afternoon. We walked and went to the park outside the alcazar and had kindle time, then when stiff from sitting on park benches, walked to the Plaza de España - an amazing plaza with OTT buildings and towers etc, and horses and carriages with tourists…and then on the way back stopped at a cafe for refreshment and felt revived…then came back to room, for ablutions (Amr) and at about 8.15 we set out for dinner.

    We had learned from yesterday that later than that it is hard to get a table anywhere, so we went to our nearby buzzing square - plaza de alfalfa - and went to our chosen place and had to join a wait list, but less than 10 minutes! Success! Had a fabulous evening. I do evenings well…it is light here till almost 10pm, even though further west than UK which would be an hour earlier, it keeps time with the rest of Europe, so it was light but cooler and SO good.

    Had a wonderful meal again…they do amazing unusual combos…a salad of tomatoes with burrata, but with onions, endive leaves, and a lemon ice cream and basil oil!! It worked. Also we had my favourite chiperones but this time they were deep fried (not my thing) but on a bed of ratatouille with a fried egg on top - that part was delicious! Also some divine scallops…and perfect pieces of cod. So we were very happy, and in the square there was a succession of buskers - the first ones were great, flamenco dancing and music, really good.

    Funny things were during the music a big dog objected and barked, which set off a little dog…and a baby in a stroller clapped with the dancing and castanets…such fun and relaxed…plenty of Spanish people, though of course many tourists like us. About to fade…and face another hot day tomorrow…
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