• Día 40

    Lake Rotoiti

    16 de noviembre de 2021, Nueva Zelanda ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    I forgot to tell you about the satellite train! As luck would have it, we just happened to be heading from Joanne and Simon’s house back to our motorhome at a little before 10pm on Sunday night, when we looked up into the clear night sky and saw the ‘train’ of around 60 satellites passing overhead. It was amazing! We checked on the interweb the next day and found that we should be able to see it for the next couple of nights, which indeed we did last night in Motueka – although with more light pollution there it wasn’t quite as bright.
    After a morning spent catching up on chores in Motueka, today we headed south down the Motueka River valley. Charlie had been hoping to cast a line for trout in this river, but with the rain over the last few days it was too high and too dirty.
    We checked out several freedom camping spots and several DOC campsites on the way through to St Arnaud, a little settlement on the northern side of Lake Rotoiti in the Nelson Lakes District. This area is the sandfly capital of New Zealand – even the DOC brochures warn you to “be sure to take insect repellent for the ferocious sandflies”!
    Despite the really warm temperatures of the last few weeks, today was a reality check. It was 19 degrees in Motueka at 9am this morning, and hovered around 18-20 until the early afternoon. As we got further inland, the temperature dropped as we got nearer to the rainclouds which seemed to be hugging the hills, and it was 8 degrees and raining steadily by the time we reached our overnight camping spot: the DOC campsite at Kerr Bay, Lake Rotoiti. There had even been some snow on the hills at the head of the lake!
    Charlie thought he might try for a fish off the shore of the lake, but he found it was so high there was no access other than off the end of the jetty! He’s not having much luck, poor man…
    We are set up for the night in a little alcove surrounded by native forest and bellbirds, with the sound of gentle drips on the roof to lull us to sleep. The satellite train should pass by again tonight, though as we have thick cloud cover here, we won’t be able to see it.
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  • Día 39

    Four Days at Patons Rock

    15 de noviembre de 2021, Nueva Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Sadly our Farewell Spit trip was the last fine day we had for four days – weren’t we lucky! On Thursday we headed back into Takaka to get some groceries, only to bump into the Betneys coming out of the supermarket. They encouraged us to come back to their place, where we were very pleased to hunker down and wait for better weather – which finally arrived today.
    It didn’t rain all day every day though, and we were able to enjoy several walks on the beach and around the delightful village of Patons Rock, or just sit and admire the garden or chat over a coffee. Joanne and Simon are incredibly welcoming and generous hosts, and we had a fabulous four days with them and their dogs, and even got to meet some of their neighbours. We can’t thank them enough.
    It was with quite heavy hearts that we left Golden Bay early this afternoon, where we’ve spent the last two incredible weeks. Promising to return in the (hopefully not too distant) future, we headed back over the Takaka Hill. On this side of the hill not far from the summit is Hawkes Lookout, where we took a short walk through the bush and between water-hewn boulders to a marble outcrop high above the Riwaka Valley. We stood almost directly above the Riwaka Resurgence (that we visited more than 2 weeks ago) and admired the awesome views over Tasman Bay, before pressing on to Motueka, where tonight we are staying at the NZMCA park.
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  • Día 34

    Farewell Spit - part 2

    10 de noviembre de 2021, Nueva Zelanda ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We took the opportunity to have a good walk along the beach, until the bus came and collected us for the return journey. The driver pointed out a colony of gannets at the end of the Spit which he said was started with about 60 birds and now numbers more than 10,000.
    The sand dunes are constantly traveling, at about 300m per year, as sand is blown off the windward side and lands on the leeward side. On the way back, we stopped to climb the highest sand dune (and run down the other side) from where we could see across the Spit to the inside beach somewhere between 7-10km away depending on the tides. This shallow bay is sadly the place where pilot whales are regularly stranded, and the community comes out in droves to try and refloat them.
    Before heading back across to the inside beach we stopped at the bottom of the beach, Fossil Point, where we saw 25million year old fossilized shells in the rocks. From here we could also look further along to some of the cliffs at Cape Farewell. Then it was back over the bumpy track to the inside beach, and on to Cape Farewell itself, the northern-most point of the South Island. The layers of conglomerate rock that make up the cliffs are most impressive – these are 50 million years old. Here we climbed to the top of the cliffs and looked out over the vast expanse of the Tasman Sea.
    We were back at Pakawau by midday, and ready for a wee nap, after one of the most brilliant of days.
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  • Día 34

    We cruise along Farewell Spit - part 1

    10 de noviembre de 2021, Nueva Zelanda ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Happy Birthday Geoff!
    Today was such a massive day we’ve decided to post it in two parts. We had a VERY early start, with the alarm waking us at 5.15, and we were waiting at the roadside for our pickup at 10 past 6! Over 30km in length, Farewell Spit is one of the longest recurved sand spits in the world. The Spit has been formed by the longshore Westland current depositing sand which originated in the Southern Alps. More sand is constantly being added to the Spit and so its size is gradually increasing.
    With about 9,400 hectares of tidal flats on the inner side, the Spit is recognised as one of the most important habitats for wading birds in the world and is classified as a Nature Reserve, which means it has greater protected status than even our National Parks. Although people are permitted to walk the first 2km on the inside beach and 4km on the outside beach, to access the rest of the Spit you have to take a ride with the sole tour operator.
    There were 11 of us plus the driver on the 4WD bus. We passed through a locked gate onto the start of the inside beach, where we travelled for about 1km before turning left and crossing a bumpy and sandy track to the Western side. We were very fortunate with the weather – it was a beautiful day, with no wind, and we were surprised to see very little surf on the outside beach. The tours run at low tide (hence our early start today), and the bus travels between the low and high tide marks, as anything above the high tide mark is out of bounds. All we could see as we looked ahead was miles and miles of flat pale sand, seemingly all the way to the horizon. With the low pale sea sparkling to the left of us, and low pale sand dunes rippling away to the right of us, at times it looked like we were in the middle of a moonscape. And a bit eerie to think we were the only ones there.
    Tens of thousands of migratory birds visit the spit each spring/summer, including knots (which arrive from Siberia via Asia and Australia), turnstones, and the remarkable godwits, which grow a whole new set of feathers to replace all their worn-out ones while they are here. The godwits fly non-stop all the way from Alaska to feed up here, before returning to the Arctic Circle to breed and subsequently leave their young. Once their young have fledged, how do they know that this Spit is where they migrate to, and how do they find their way here?
    We stopped a number of times as the driver pointed out various birds or the occasional fur seals lolling on the beach. One stop was at the remains of a willow tree that had been washed up in 2010 (along with sections of 2 bridges, a fridge, and a TV) after floods on the West Coast. The only thing to break the unending flatness the entire length of the beach, the tree’s shapes and shadows looked amazing in the early morning light. We were also able to make out Mount Taranaki on the horizon, on the North Island’s West Coast. Apparently it is only clear enough to see this on about 50 days of the year.
    About 1km from the end of the Spit is a lighthouse, which until the mid-1970’s was permanently staffed. There are several old houses there which the lighthouse keepers and their families lived in, and one of them is now used for accommodation for DOC workers. This is where we had our morning tea (at about 8.30am!)
    Stay tuned for Part 2!
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  • Día 33

    We Cross to the West Coast

    9 de noviembre de 2021, Nueva Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Our destination this morning was the most westerly part of the northern South Island. Or the most northerly part of the West Coast! An initially sealed road heads inland from Golden Bay, crosses a narrow part of the Kahurangi National Park, and emerges at the Whanganui Inlet. After that it’s all unsealed.
    We turned right and, as is usual for us, the road got narrower and windier and rougher, and there was nowhere to turn around! Charlie was driving today, and the tension mounted as the road conditions worsened. After about 6km we eventually found ourselves at the Kaihoka Lakes scenic reserve, where we found there is a parking spot (big enough for 2 cars only) down a narrow, steep, soft and pot-holed track – totally unsuitable for a motorhome! We managed to creep up onto a grassy bank, and decided to worry about how to get out of there after we had finished our forest walk and had our coffee!
    The walking track took us between two small lakes in the undulating landscape here that have been formed by sand dunes blocking valleys in the underlying sandstone, and in typical West Coast style the bush grows right down to the water’s edge. Very pretty!
    Our next challenge was how to get out of there. Charlie had already walked on up the road a bit to see if there was anywhere to turn, but nothing obvious was in sight. We gingerly reversed back down the grassy bank and headed on up the road in search of a space that was big enough for a 7m vehicle to do a U-turn. By this time the track was so narrow that grass was growing in the middle of it! About 2km further on we came to a stretch of grass where it appears stock trucks had recently loaded up with cattle – there were numerous very large (and very fresh!) cow-pats all over the grass, and as I leapt out to help guide Charlie backwards I had to be VERY careful where I trod!
    But we managed to turn around, and then we were able to get back out to the intersection at the start of the inlet. We again turned right, and carried on round hoping to get to a point where we could see between the heads and out to the open sea, but there were too many spurs of land in between for this to happen. After another 9 or 10 km of bone-rattling (and having met half a dozen speeding drivers heading towards us in clouds of dust) we decided we’d had enough! We got as far as the Wairoa River, then turned around and headed back. All up, about 35km of shingle road, and the motorhome is looking VERY tired and dusty.
    On the way back to our POP at Pakawau, we poked our noses into a beach track just up the road, from where we were JUST able to make out the sand dunes of Farewell Spit arcing away out into the ocean. That’s tomorrow’s adventure!
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  • Día 32

    Paua Patties in Pakawau

    8 de noviembre de 2021, Nueva Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    This morning we reluctantly left our favourite POP (with a promise to return) and headed on toward the end of the road. We stopped at Milnthorpe Park on the edge of the Parapara Inlet, where a large tract of land has been revegetated with native forest. Mandy was driving today, and as we headed into the Park (down a narrow unsealed road) we rounded a bend to find a huge rubbish truck hurtling towards us in a cloud of dust. We managed to tiptoe past it with our mirrors intact, but had to breathe in!
    Within the Park, several kilometres of tracks wind their way through the bush past a variety of interesting sculptures and out to various beaches and viewing points around the inlet. After a couple of hours (and another promise to return – Charlie is very keen to try fishing there) we pushed on through Collingwood to tonight’s stop at Pakawau.
    This POP is now a café, but used to be a small school, and we are parked on a large flat grassy area that would once have been the playing field.
    One of the Betneys’ neighbours is Syd Eru, an ex-NZ rugby league player. Simon had taken a load of firewood over to him yesterday, and this morning his partner turned up with a tray of snapper fillets and three large paua. Charlie and I have just had paua patties for dinner and they were delicious.
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  • Día 31

    Day 2 at the Betneys' POP

    7 de noviembre de 2021, Nueva Zelanda ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The Betneys’ park over property is the best one we’ve stayed at yet! None of the others came with catering, and an outdoor shower in a tropical garden was a real highlight! It has been lovely spending time with Joanne and Simon and their two dogs, Magnus (who we’ve met before) and Bryn, an ex-racing greyhound with the loveliest gentle nature. She followed Charlie and I around like a shadow, and sat outside the door of the motorhome in the mornings waiting for us to get up. We took the dogs out onto the beach for a run in the afternoon and it was amazing to see Bryn running at full pace.Leer más

  • Día 30

    Takaka and the Dancing Sands

    6 de noviembre de 2021, Nueva Zelanda ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    After a major stock-up at the supermarket in Takaka, we took a wander along the main street and around the stalls at the weekly market there. It’s an interesting part of the country, which appears to attract a lot of people with what you might call ‘alternative’ lifestyles. A great place for people-watching!
    We pulled into a picnic area next to the Takaka River and took our lunch down to the water’s edge to sit under a tree, as the weather today was sunny and hot. We had only been sitting there for a minute or two when we spied a seal cavorting in the river only a few metres away. Suddenly it sped up and dived… and came up with a trout wriggling in its mouth! Great entertainment.
    Our walk today was at Te Waikoropūpū Springs, which translates as ‘bubbling waters from the throat of the spring’. As its name suggests, the water bubbles out of a series of springs at the bottom of deep pools of the clearest water, before rippling away downstream. You can see the sand moving as it is disturbed by the emerging water – one of the pools is called ‘dancing sands’. The walkway winds through native bush, past and over several spring-fed creeks of rushing water, and there are boardwalks and viewing platforms from where you can gaze into the pools and try to estimate their depth. The area is sacred to the local iwi, and you can see why – it is a very special place.
    This weekend we are staying with some ex-neighbours of ours from Queensberry. Joanne and Simon moved up to Golden Bay a couple of years ago and have a beautiful home set in several acres of park-like grounds at Paton’s Rock, which is right on the coast. It has been really lovely catching up with them. Charlie has lent a hand both days, splitting wood for their winter store.
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  • Día 29

    A walk to Wainui Falls

    5 de noviembre de 2021, Nueva Zelanda ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today we left Totaranui and stopped on the way out for a walk up to the Wainui Falls. This is a very scenic 40 minute climb up to a thundering 20m high waterfall. The boulder-strewn stream has huge water-hewn rocks the size of small trucks littering its length. The water is so clear that it is impossible to determine how deep some of the pools are. Bet it’s a fabulous place to cool off on a hot summer day.
    Every time we’ve been on a walk, we’ve slotted our water bottle into the sleeve on the outside of Charlie’s backpack, and every time he’s taken his backpack off the water bottle has fallen out and gone splat on the ground. Well today we were half-way up the climb and he decided to take his backpack off to remove his jacket. Once again – as was to be expected – the water bottle fell out, only this time it rolled down the hill and disappeared over the edge of the cliff face, never to be seen again!
    Tonight we are back at Pohara, ready to start the ‘final ascent’ on our last leg up to the very top of the South Island.
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  • Día 28

    A walk to Anapai Bay

    4 de noviembre de 2021, Nueva Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Today we packed our lunch and a coffee and took the track north to Anapai Bay, another beautiful walk through the native bush. Our ‘Short Walks’ book listed this at 1 hour 40 return, but we did it in an hour and a half… each way!
    The lushness of the forest, and the enormous number of varieties of green, are quite remarkable. We passed huge stands of manuka trees, some of which looked to be hundred of years old, and there are pungas (tree ferns) everywhere thrusting their new shoots (the curling korus) high into the air. There are groves of nikau palms too, which is an indication of the near-tropical micro-climate that must exist in some parts of the park.
    Initially it was quite overcast, so we didn’t see the stunning colours of our walk on Tuesday, but the sun did come out on our return to brighten things up. Sadly the sea is very discoloured after all the turbulence yesterday, so Charlie is unlikely to try fishing again and we will move on tomorrow.
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