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Travels in Europe 2017

Ogos - September 2017
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  • PengembaraTravels in Europe 2017
    Hari 11

    Riding the Rhine ..Strasbourg - Breisach

    30 Ogos 2017, Jerman ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Another change of plans meant that we were stuck on the boat for the morning as it sailed down the river to Rhinau. When I awoke the boat was already underway and then as I did yoga it passed back through the Napoleonic era lock while there was a very attractive sunrise. Finally, however we made it to Rhinau and then there was the bikes to unload (interestingly it was the Ghostriders who help with the unloading not the German guests who just waited for their bikes to come ashore and then just buggered off!!!). It was 1230 by the time we were finally ready to head off and the day was warm and windy. First off we left the boat which was actually moored at a lock near Diebelshiem and headed in to Rhinau where we crossed the river by ferry and then headed back up river passing through the Taubergiessen Nature Reserve which was declared in 1979 and comprises 1,700 hectares of meadows, forests and waterways and was really rather lovely. Some of the riders (including Kirstin) decided to stop by a stream to lunch and in Henry’s case a swim. I continued on however, riding through Weisweil where I became totally disorientated looking for the mythical coffee shop (following the pink signs as per Dagmar’s instructions), I ended up following the rwrong route and doing about 10km extra along the Rhine levee into the wind! Finally, I sorted, myself out ending up on the outskirts of Sachbach where I found a beer garden where I ate my lunch and enjoyed a clensing and cooling beer. I then continued on – it what was a bit of a hard slog in the 32-degree heat and the strong headwind - finally reaching Breisach in the late afternoon – I took a brief detour to the supermarket for more wine and then made my way to the boat for dinner (Salad, Broccoli soup, fish and veggies and gateau). I was surprised to beat the rest of the group back although it was only by 20 minutes. When I arrived, we were “double parked” alongside another boat and we had to cross their sundeck and then take a ramp down to the MS Andante.
    Kirstin on the other hand had followed the prescribed route from Weiseil through Whyl am Keiserstuhl and Sachbach – memorable incidents of her day included David having an intimate encounter with a strange mammal in his knicks and Henry’s fully clothed swimming experience. She also enjoyed a meeting with some French guinea pigs at a café where they stopped to get a refreshing drink.    Baca lagi

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  • PengembaraTravels in Europe 2017
    Hari 12

    A rainy day to ride to Colmar

    31 Ogos 2017, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    A sudden change in the weather meant that the temperature had dropped by at least 10 degrees and there was a 99% chance of rain. Many of the Ghostriders decided that they wouldn’t ride and would travel to Colmar by bus instead. I was keen to ride however and as was Douglas, Henry and Lionel. We set off just after 8 and made our way towards Neuf-Brisach where a good proportion of the group planned to visit and then return to the boat to change and bus it to Colmar. We carried on towards Colmar along lovely almost totally flat canal path passing Khunheim and about 5km after that making a sharp left turn and following another path of a similar nature. It did rain on and off (heavily for about 20 minutes) but the weather really was quite mild as we passed through a largely agricultural area with a few villages. We arrived in Colmar after about 2 and a half hours feeling that it had been a really lovely spin (even on the clunk old bikes). We soon found our way into the centre of the city and found a café near the Cathedral where we enjoyed a coffee before having a bit of a wander around the Cathedral area which is resplendent with lovely timber buildings. There was another toilet incident (and as it transpired another Ghostrider – who shall remain nameless had a a similar one to that which we observed) 50c was required to use the toilet which we did not have – we didn’t “flush” and tag teamed to use the facilities. Not flushing was clearly the key as a couple using the adjacent toilet found out. The Husband went in, pressed the flush button and then held the door open for his wife – she entered, the door shut and then suddenly the toilet entered its “decontamination cycle”. We could hear the lady bashing on the door and calling for help, her husband tried to open the door to no avail and a minute or 2 later she emerged VERY wet from the mid-calf down! Following this encounter, we rode to to “Little Venice” this is an area of Colmar where houses line a canal and it is somewhat reminiscent of Venice – there were a number of restaurants along the canal however we decided that they were too “fancy smancy touristy” on so went and found a lovely “local” café on the other side of town where we enjoyed more coffee and I had my packed lunch followed by a delicious raspberry tart.
    Meanwhile Kirstin had taken the bus into Colmar with a group of other Ghostriders (Andrea and Greg) arriving at about 10am and starting the visit with a wander around the lovely old town centre and then enjoying a coffee at a little café near a church. Then they just wandered around the town (photographing cakes and macarons along the way) destination “little Venice” where they had a boat trip – 25 minutes up and down the canal – the boat driver provided an interesting commentary – also toilet related - when he pointed out how the facilities in the houses along the canal were directly over the water (even on the second floor) – fortunately they do not function this way today! Also interestingly, the colours of the houses indicated the religious of the inhabitants – blue for Catholics, Red for Protestants… also light blue shutters would indicate a “single lady” in residence. They also saw the house of the hangman (sequestered behind a wall as it was a real case of NIMBY). These days you can have any colour you like provided it isn’t the same as your neighbours! They also found a house built in 1568 (400 years before we were born!!). After lunch in a Patiserrie where Kirstin enjoyed a tuna baguette and a chocolate eclair and a Tarte au Citron. … yummmo. After lunch, there was an interesting visit to the Musee d’Bartholdi (the creator of the statue of Liberty) and other well know works around France. Following the museum, it was back to the station for the bus to Breisach….. a full and enjoyable day!    Baca lagi

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  • PengembaraTravels in Europe 2017
    Hari 12

    Neuf-Breisach and Breisach

    31 Ogos 2017, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Meanwhile - once we had eaten it was back on the bikes and heading back the way we had come towards Neuf-Breisach. Once again, the ride was very pleasant. We stopped periodically to take photos - in particular some lovely (Van Gogh-esqu) rural scenes, an antique lock and the deep grooves on the bridges caused by the barge tow ropes. At one stage we became slightly diverted and ended up still at Neuf-Breisach but from a totally different direction!
    Neuf-Breisach is a “model town” built in the shape on an octogon with a star shaped ourer Rampart – it was essentially a “show off” by the French in a massive act of “one-up-mans-ship” to the Germans in Breisach. We had a bit of a ride around the town and then climbed onto the wall to enjoy the view of the impressive outer ramparts – then we were off again. Returning to Breisach we swung around the back of the town and up to Badisacher Weinkeller (the largest bottling wine cellar in Europe) where we purchased some wine before parting ways in the centre of town with Henry and Lionel returning to the ship while Douglas and I made the climb to the Church of St Stephens which is located on a rocky outcrop above the town. Originally built in 1200 the church had various works and alternations over the subsequent 300years – however in 1945 it was essentially rebuilt from the ground up. We met a lovely lady who told up of the history of the church and of the patron Saints (twin Martyrs who’s relics are in the church in a silver reliquary). After a lovely chat we made our way back down, onto our bikes and back to the boat where we enjoyed yet another generous meal and then had our briefing for our final day’s riding.    Baca lagi

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  • PengembaraTravels in Europe 2017
    Hari 13

    A day of ups and downs

    1 September 2017, Switzerland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    The boat had a long journey today and so we were all aiming to be up and off early. This was achieved with most Ghoastriders getting underway by 8.15. It was another cool day with the threat, but fortunately not the reality, of rain. The ride was meant to be a straight forward 60km straight along the Rhine to Kybeck where the boat was due to berth at about 5pm…. however once again things did not quite go to plan as there were several fairly poorly sign posted. I headed off at a steady pace along mostly fine gravelled paths (at times a little sticky so a good work out for the legs) but got totally lost at one of the detours and ended up taking the scenic route via a massive asparagus farm. By and large the Continuing along the path I stopped at the 40-odd km mark for an espresso and then continued on (riding on and off with Karen, David and Lionel) until the weir, just after which we found the boat club where we stopped for lunch and more coffee. Continuing on, the 4 of us finally found our way into Basel via a roundabout route. We rode around the town looking at the lovely old houses, churches and shops. We stopped in the square opposite the old town hall (Rathaus) and had more coffee and a bun. It was rather lovely as there was a produce market in progress. Following our break, we rode around some more before finally heading off towards the designated meeting point (sadly no boat yet!) – well over 7okm for the day
    Meanwhile Kirstin had stuck with the main group (but with the aid of her trusty e-bike had ridden like the wind – although she insists that she kept the settings on standard so she was actually doing a lot of the work herself and ended the day with 55km up her sleeve until some of the other e-bike riders who were almost on flat batteries! This group road until the sports club where I had had my first coffee and then had a lunch break and rest there for about 45 minutes before then heading on for another 15 or 20km to the boat club for a hot chocolate. Entertainingly David’s bike almost fell into the Rhine but was saved at the last minute which was good as he therefore did not have to walk the last 10 or km’s. Pressing on they made good time to the meeting point, but then had to wait for over an hour for the boat to turn up! Finally it showed – another “double parking” episode behind a more swanky boat…. Waiting, waiting waiting … until Bob did the aged, infirm, geriatric routine and we were allowed to board via their fancy lobby.
    Final briefing over and then the “Captain’s Dinner” which was about 5 courses and very filling. And then we had the Ghostriders final briefing – it was while Doug was having a very public and embarrassing “go” at Diane for not wearing a helmet that I realised that I had not seen my wallet for some time… I then proceeded to tear my bags and cabin apart looking for it – I recalled having it after I bought the bun in Basel, but not after that. Searching to no avail I came to the horrid realisation that I had either left it in the square or it had been pick pocketed. The upshot of this was a late-night visit to the police station and even later night calls to the card providers to block the cards – now I have Mastercard but no direct access to cash!! Fantastic!!    Baca lagi

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  • PengembaraTravels in Europe 2017
    Hari 14

    Off to Venice

    2 September 2017, Itali ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Having slept very little I was feeling rather ordinary when I woke … breakfast done it was time to pack and say good bye to all our friends. We headed out along the river towards the town. It was a chilly morning with the threat of rain once more but the walk into town was very easy and probably not more than 4 or 5 km all up. We first went back to the square where I had last seen my wallet – to no avail, and then tried several ATMs but none would accept my back up card. We sent our helmets and bike gear back to Australia via the post office and then kept wandering trying to find a reloadable cash card or the like again … with no success! We ended up at a Starbucks near the station where we paid a ridiculous $7 AUD each for an espresso – at least we got a couple of hours on the WiFi and the use of the toilet – what else is Starbucks good for! I was able to message Sam and let him know about the wallet issue and asked him if he wanted anything bought back – a carton of smokes! Great! Kristin rang her family and got an update on all the news, especially on how her puppy girl was going!
    We remained sheltering in Starbucks while a thunderstorm made i’s presence felt and then crossed to the station where we validated our Eurail pass and soon found our train – comfortably seated in first class we settled back for our 6.5 hour trip Milan – accompanied by sandwiches made from bits and pieces from the breakfast buffet and a small bottle of wine from the bar.
    The countryside of Switzerland was just amazing. Fairy-tale villages and steep mountains crowned with snow even at the end of summer – really quite a stunning vista as we powered along. We were held up at the Italian boarder due to some kind of inspection by the Garda de Finanza (Italian fraud and border police) this meant that the train would be late getting into Milan and that the connection which was supposed to be about 40 minutes would only be about 10. However as things turned out the connecting train was also late (about 30 minutes by the time it got to Venice) and so it wasn’t a stress. Milano Centrale station is pretty big and it was certainly packed with people thronging everywhere when we arrived. Soon enough the train arrived and we were pleased to settle back into the first class carriage (it was a perk of the Eurail “Group” Pass” and enjoy the final 2 an a bit hours of travel.
    The Italian countryside was really quite different to Switzerland – even when we were still up in the Alps, the stations and towns we passed changed from fairy tale cute and incredibly neat and clean to suddenly very scruffy and run down. After Milano we were traveling (at about 160km per hour) through mostly flat country side where corn and wine seemed the main crops – off to our left we could still see the mountains however and the occasional lake with islands and villages on them.    Baca lagi

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  • PengembaraTravels in Europe 2017
    Hari 14

    Ah Venice

    2 September 2017, Itali ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    It was almost 8 when we arrived at Mestre and were then able to hop onto another train which took us across the bridge and into Santa Lucia (the main Venice Station). Although it was getting dark as we arrived the Grand Canal was thrumming with people and boats and the sky was being periodically lit up by flashes of lightening and accented by regular rumbles of thunder. Our hotel was only 800 metres from the station but this did involve 3 large bridges (steps up…steps down) and then at the hotel (which is just a doorway from the street) there was 3 floors of later like stairs to get up to our room …. Phew.
    We quickly dumped our stuff and then back down to the street where we just had to cross the street to a Pizzeria (Antico Gafaro Ag) where we enjoyed a large mushroom pizza and a carafe of wine. We were seated next to a (?) father and son who had come from Sicily to see the Biannale and we chatted with them in a mix of English, French and Italian getting their recommendations about what to eat and do in Sicily and commenting on things in Venice. Sated and perhaps a tad effected by the wine we wandered back to our hotel via a gelato place…… aaah Venice    Baca lagi

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  • PengembaraTravels in Europe 2017
    Hari 15

    25,000 steps around Venice

    3 September 2017, Itali ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    I was unreal waking and realizing that we are really truly in Venice – I have wanted to get back here for so long. We started the day with a couple of espressos and a vegetable calzone type thing in a small square not far from the hotel. From there we just walked and walked around the city. We started off heading towards the Rialto Bridge browsing the shops and marveling at the beauty Venice. At the tourist packed Rialto, we turned towards the Market bit it wasn’t really happening much probably because it is a “Holiday” Sunday (due to the boating regatta) from there we meandered across Venice to the Hotel we had to go to to check in (apparently it is the sister hotel of where we are staying). From there we headed off to Campo Santa Margherita in an attempt to avid the tourists as suggested by the lady at the hotel (to no avail) but we did have the special Aperativo deal (break with various fish options, arancini and a glass of wine. It was a beautiful warm and sunny day and once we had eaten we just kept on strolling past the Academia bridge to San Maria Della Salute (closed) and the back around to San Marco’s square and the Rialto. We kept on strolling and were able to even catch glimpses of the Regatta passing on the Grand Canal.
    We ducked back to the hotel briefly before heading out to visit the Leonardo Da Vinci Museum which, to quote the brochure, “offers a detailed and engaging journey to discover the world of Leonardo Da Vinci, among his ingenious machines, codes and manuscripts. It really was very interesting and only served to highlight what a genius the man was! From there we strolled further in the city ending up at La Zucca Restaurant (still closed and not answering my phone calls – it was due to the holiday I was to later to discover) feeling a tad hungry we chose a another place nearby (Trattoria Al Ponte Del Megio) where I enjoyed a traditional Venetian dish of spaghetti alla Vongoli (clams and mussels) and salad while Kirstin had some Gnocchi Bolognaise and salad, the house wine (red for me, frizantini for Kirsitn) topped it off nicely. I still felt the need to explore so leaving Kirstin back a our hotel I headed out for a final stroll over past the station where I found a bar to enjoy a further red wine and a little mini hazelnut tart standing at the bar (much cheaper that way – only 2.60 Euro). A thunderstorm rolled in just was I was finishing my beverage and this seemed a good time to head back to the hotel and enjoy the sound of the revellers singing at the bistro down across the street – ahh Venice    Baca lagi

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  • PengembaraTravels in Europe 2017
    Hari 16

    Getting the best from a 24hr ferry pass

    4 September 2017, Itali ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    After a bit of a slow start we headed out to find breakfast… we wandered towards Fondamenta Nuove but found a great looking place called Farini somewhere near the Rialto Market where we could enjoy great coffee and sweet or savoury bread and pastries – we also chose a Marmalade Brioche to take away for lunch. Next stop was the Fondanenta Nuova which is the main ferry strop for the islands of the Lagoona. We purchased (and validated – one must validate before EVERY journey) a 24 hour ferry pass and then jumped about the 4.1 heading to Murano but got off only a few minutes later when we pulled up at St Michele the cemetery island. The island is attractively landscaped, with tall cypress trees and a 15th Century church with a cloister that leads to the cemetery proper. Most of the shallow graves that you see are occupied for just ten or twelve years; after that, the graves are excavated and the bones are transferred in boxes to mausoleum niches or dumped into a communal ossuary. We had a bit of a wander around the graves for about 45minutes or so then headed back to the ferry and caught the next 4.1 off to Murano.
    We got off at the stop and walked along the water until reaching a "Fornace Glass" sign on a door below the Calle S. Cipriano street sign here we were able to view a free glassmaking demonstration. After that we wandered the island browsing in a few shops and galleries and making a couple of purchases. We ended up at the Faro ferry stop where we ducked into a café - Kirstin had a coffee and I enjoyed my firsts “spritz” which is very popular in Venice and consists of Soda water with Aperol, a wedge of orange and an olive – odd but it works!
    Next stop was Burano via the number 12 Ferry The island of Burano lies in the northern part of the Venetian Lagoon It has a much different atmosphere from Murano or Venice's historic centre, thanks to the Buranese custom of painting houses in bright colours--a tradition that may have had its origins in the colour schemes of local fishing boats. Everywhere you look, you'll see houses clad in blue, green, pink, rose, lavender, purple, yellow, and other colours. Fishing is one traditional occupation of the Buranelli; the other is lacemaking. We sat in a park near the ferry stop and ate our fruit and Brioche before spending an hour or so wandering the island – it really is rather cute.
    Back on the Number 12 again we headed out to Punta Sabioni where we changed for the number 14, this took us on to the Lido, the long but very narrow island that guards the mouth of the Lagoona and is currently the home of the Venice Film Festival (we kept our eyes open for George Cluney and Judy Dench but no luck. We walked about a km from the ferry stop to the other side of the Island and sat on the beach for a bit before dabbling our feet in the Adriatic (just to say we had) then we headed back to the ferry terminal via the gelati shop (mmm I had fig and walnut and Kirstin mixed berries).
    We got onto a number 1 ferry which is a great way to see the city as it travels all the way up the grand canal to Piazalle Roma we passed St Marks Square, the Academia Bridge, the Rialto and so on – it was really great. After that we had a quick visit to the supermarket where Kirstin resisted the temptation to buy 5 litres of red wine for $5 (it is cheaper than water!) and headed for diner at the place across from the hotel. Tonight we had calamari and scampi with some grilled veggies plus some of he house wine (you order by the ¼, ½ or full litre). After tea we thought a walk was in order and managed to make our way to La Zucca which was finally open (they don’t answer the phone because they are very busy apparently. We made a booking for tomorrow night and then meandered about getting a tad lost (the map is pretty rubbishy really) and turning up at the Rialto Market ATV where we caught the number 1 ferry back home – another full day!    Baca lagi

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  • PengembaraTravels in Europe 2017
    Hari 17

    Art, art and more art

    5 September 2017, Itali ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    We started the day with and ride in the ACTV ferry to the Rialto Market and then breakfast at the Farini Café – double espresso and focaccia with feta. Then it was on a meander via the shops and St Mark’s Square (where I demonstrated my Pigeon Mastery skills .... just for you Sam McKay). Following the pigeon interaction we headed down the Canal Di San Marco to the Gardini where the Biennale is held. It was quite cool and the breeze had a bit of a chill but it was lovely to be out and strolling. Wre arrived at the ticket office just before 10 and joined the short queue – smack on 10am up went the blinds and we soon had our 48hr pass (we had thought about just getting a day pass abut as it turned out we were glad we went with the 48hr).

    The Biennale is an international contemporary art exhibition which occurs every second year in Venice and has been going in odd numbered years since 1893 (this year is the 57th). There are exhibitions by both individual artists and “countries” Countries have their own permanent pavilions and will have a nominated artist or artist exhibiting there – there are also large pavilions with 40+ plus invited artists exhibiting works based on specific themes. The exhibition is primarily held in the gardens (Gardini) at the tip of Venice and the Arsenale – but there are also various works scattered all over the city.

    We started off in the main pavilion – I don’t know if I just don’t “get” contemporary art, but I found most of the stuff in there just really odd (although some was really good). However I enjoyed some of the work in the international pavilions much more, as well as the pavilions themselves – it was interesting seeing how the buildings reflected national character. The Australia exhibit was a tad odd – a photographer (Tracey Moffatt) – whose work I found overly staged. At about 3pm I think we got to the point where we were tired and a tad hungry and so decided to head off in search of Pizza even though we had only seen the works at the Gardini and not yet the Arsenarle

    We left the exhibition and headed off to find Art Della Pizza which I remembered from my last visit to Venice – it took quite a bit of meandering and swearing at the map but finally we found the place and enjoyed a couple of pieces of Pizza (as good as I remembered) before repairing to a local bar for a “spritz” – not nearly as yummy as the one we enjoyed of Murano yesterday. Refreshed we headed off to find a Traghetto – the gondola which takes you across the Grand Canal for 2 Euro (can’t visit Venice and not have ridden in a Gondola) Jumping out at the fish market we wandered around the shops and and generally got lost several times on our way to dinner, we managed to find the shop selling coffee makers and the one where I had seen a pendant I wanted for Mum, as well as the supermarket for a few necessities before rocking up at La Zucca for dinner.

    La Zucca is a vegetable focased (but not vegetarian per see) restaurant – it doea really nice food and we had visited 4 years ago and I was keep to go back. We had a really lovely meal there – I have baked pasted with egg plants and kirstin had a pumpkin and ricotta tart – plau we shared a spinach dish and some grilled artichokes – delicious. We shared our table with a couple of German students who I think we scared with all our talk of fierce Australian wildlife, then, sated once again it was time to head home…. Or at least back to the hotel.    Baca lagi

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  • PengembaraTravels in Europe 2017
    Hari 18

    More art – old & new!

    6 September 2017, Itali ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We started the day with breakfast at Café Farini where the coffee was excellent yet again! Next stop was the Doges Palace in St Mark’s Square. This costs 20 Euro for the visit but you also get entry to 3 other museums in St Mark’s Square so it isn’t too bad. The palace is another of those buildings that has been added to, burned down and partially rebuilt several times. Started in the late 12th century the palace was the residence of the Doge (the elected ruler of Venice) and the seat of the administration of the city. The visit is fairly structured in that there are lots of signs saying “direction of visit” and that sort of thing. We started with the administrative chambers which are rather grand and filled with art – a lot by Tinteretto (Jacob as well as his son Domenico). The we visited the armory which has 2000+ weapons and then finally the goal which includes the famous “Bridge of Signs” which one actually gets to cross in both directions. Although the goal was built as a “model” prison and was seen as very “nice” for the prisoners, it is clear that such things are relative as it was dark, dank and really rather smelly. It WAS very interesting however.

    Having seen lots of old art we moved on to the new stuff – heading off to the Arsenale where we had another go at the Biennale. The Arsenale was first developed in the early 12th Century and was the heart of the Venetian naval power as it functioned as the ship building yards covering an area of 46 hectares (about 15% of Venice) and employing 16,00 workers at its peak – at which time up to 100 ships would be in various stages of production simultaneously. The Arsenale is now the venue for a large proportion of the Biennale, which is what we went to see. There were 5 pavilions with invited artists in the main building and then various country pavillions around the rest of the site. I am not sure if I am missing something or just don’t “get” contemporary art – I couldn’t see the point of a lot of it – we actually suspected many of the artists might have genital issues based on what we were seeing. Although that being said some of the works were really interesting and the venue was fascinating!

    By about 3pm we were all “arted” out and headed back towards the Rialto – we got a bit lost (a very regular occurrence in Venice although it never lasts long) and then stumbled across another Farini branch where we revived ourselves with a double espresso and a cake thing. Fortified we wandered off to check out the Correr Museum which is housed in a late 16th Centruy Building at the other end of St Mark’s Square to the Doges Palace – it has a serious of rooms restored to their 18th Century use as the apartments of the Empresses as well as a large collection of items ranging from religious, through naval and church items.

    After the museum, we took the Traghetto from the Rialto Market stop across the Grand Canal and then walked down Strada Nuova towards the station browsing the shops and generally enjoying the mild evening. We returned to the hotel to shower and change and then headed back past the station to a restaurant we had passed earlier for tea. The food wasn’t awful or anything but it wasn’t fantastic either – I had spaghetti al nero (spaghetti with cuttlefish and squid ink) which was really nice, then grilled salmon (which was a tad dry and a bit boney) with a nice salad. Kirstin had Salmon and polenta but didn’t enjoy the salmon because of the bones. Post dinner it was back to the hotel to start packing and sort out our plans for tomorrow when it is off to Verona!    Baca lagi

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