Camino Frances 2017

A 35-day adventure by Scott Read more

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Trip start
September 10, 2017
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Day 1
Sunday, September 10, 2017 at 4:31 PM
🌧 15 °C
Altitude: 796 m
France Bois d’Orisson 43.10873, -1.2390443°6’31” N 1°14’21” W
And so it begins ...
September 10, 2017 in France ⋅ 🌧 15 °C
... with a single step on a French cobblestone lane under a stone arch which has seen millions of pilgrims over many centuries. Coleen and I add our names to the traveling ledger of wayfarers who have preceded us. Today was a short day but a steep up thru the mists and rains of the Pyrenees. Tomorrow we will summit these mountains and nightfall will find us sleeping under Spanish skies.Read more
TravelerYou both look vibrant...if a bit wet. Love you two!
9/11/17Reply
TravelerLove your opening words. Feel I am beginning to read an adventure novel.
9/13/17Reply
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Day 4
Wednesday, September 13, 2017 at 6:57 PM
☀️ 30 °C
Altitude: 488 m
Spain Uterga 42.70837, -1.7609642°42’30” N 1°45’39” W
And that's no Bull ...
September 13, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
After a rough trip over the Pyrenees in driving rain and wind, Pamplona was a much needed boost today. In the City where bulls are loosed onto the cobble streets each summer, we enjoyed wondrous Spanish sunshine, scrumptious pinchos (tapas) and scoops of lemon and mango gelato in the city square. Then a hike to Alto Perdon where rusting steel pilgrims point the Way to Santiago de Compostella. Buenas dias.Read more
TravelerYou two have a way of finding fine food and wine , glad Pamplona was waiting after your first few days.
9/13/17Reply
TravelerVery much enjoying following you on your journey! Love your written descriptions...and pictures!
9/14/17Reply
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Day 5
Thursday, September 14, 2017 at 4:13 PM
⛅ 16 °C
Altitude: 414 m
Spain Estella-Lizarra 42.66868, -2.023442°40’7” N 2°1’24” W
The Walking Wounded
September 14, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
We have been told that you walk the Camino with your head not your feet. Lofty sentiments but there is no convincing my two blistered toes and wonky knees that this is true. All manner of pilgrims are limping along the Way, ankles or knees taped and braced. Pain relief is in high demand. And wine therapy is enthusiastically embraced by the pilgrims in the evenings.Read more
TravelerI have just stepped into following the Paul journey. It looks like a beautiful start and now you need to work for the views and experiences. I hope that effort (and pain) makes them even more vibrant and breathtaking. It looks wonderful. Enjoy you 2. Oh A535 might be in order :)
9/14/17Reply
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Day 6
Friday, September 15, 2017 at 4:16 PM
⛅ 16 °C
Altitude: 493 m
Spain Sansol 42.55366, -2.2656342°33’13” N 2°15’56” W
Pointing the Way
September 15, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
It's hard to get lost on the Way. Flechas amarillos -- yellow arrows are always close by to guide you past historic churches, thru tiny villages and hillside trails. When a yellow arrow isn't available, all manner of material from rocks to pine cones are fashioned to ensure all errant pilgrims make it to Santiago de Compostella.Read more
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Day 7
Saturday, September 16, 2017 at 8:13 PM
☀️ 13 °C
Altitude: 516 m
Spain Navarrete 42.42865, -2.5618842°25’43” N 2°33’43” W
No room at the Inn
September 16, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C
Arrived this evening and all the albuerges are full. The town is putting up about 40 pilgrims in a library building which is bring renovated. Only 1 bathroom amongst us all. Looks like a refugee camp. Fortunately, most of us are used to sleeping in tight quarters. Hopefully the snorers will be at the end of the hall.Read more
TravelerHope your back is strong Scott! Use the ear plugs that you brought. Hopefully :)
9/16/17Reply
TravelerHere's hoping the "refuge camp" isn't on food and wine rations.
9/16/17Reply
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Day 8
Sunday, September 17, 2017 at 4:51 PM
☀️ 17 °C
Altitude: 750 m
Spain Cirueña 42.41272, -2.8943642°24’46” N 2°53’40” W
Always moving .... forward
September 17, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
Illuminated only by our single headlamp, the trail out of Navarette was spooky this morning at 6:15 AM when we struck off. Once it has risen, the sun is a great guide in the morning as we need only to follow our shadows, inexorably moving further west. 230 kilometers completed and 570 remaining to Santiago de Compostella.Read more
TravelerBeautiful....keep walking friends! I'm cheering you on from afar!
9/17/17Reply
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Day 9
Monday, September 18, 2017 at 3:50 PM
⛅ 17 °C
Altitude: 776 m
Spain Belorado 42.42047, -3.1905442°25’14” N 3°11’26” W
Walk, Eat, Sleep. ..
September 18, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
.... and then repeat. Life is simple on the Way.
TravelerWonderful to pare it down to the basics. Enjoying all the statues , signs, and markers along the way.
9/19/17Reply
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Day 10
Tuesday, September 19, 2017 at 4:02 PM
☀️ 17 °C
Altitude: 967 m
Spain Agés 42.36964, -3.4782642°22’11” N 3°28’42” W
O' Canada, O' Camino ...
September 19, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
Of all the nationalities on the Camino right now, Canada would appear to be over represented. Lotsa Canucks from BC, the Prairies, Ontario and Quebec. Canadians have become the subject of much discussion amongst or pilgrim cohort walking to Santiago de Compostella.

But right now I am basking in the Spanish sun with a glass of vino blanco and in the words of the Canadian singer David Myles ...."countin' up my worries but I can't think of one." Hasta luego.Read more
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Day 11
Wednesday, September 20, 2017 at 5:13 PM
☀️ 24 °C
Altitude: 874 m
Spain Río Vena 42.34891, -3.6976842°20’56” N 3°41’52” W
Burgos ... oh wow.
September 20, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
The medieval pilgrim arriving at the jaw - dropping cathedral in Burgos might have been tempted to stay here awhile for surely this was a place where heaven and earth seemed just a little closer. A place where angels and saints convened in joyous celebration.

It is without question the most beautiful cathedral I've yet to see in Europe.

On a less spiritual note, Coleen and I took the opportunity of the big city to tuck into incredibly tasty and cheap tapas along with our first ice-chilled sangria of this trip.

My spiritual and temporal needs now met, adios for from this most contented pilgrim.Read more
Travelerhi Scott and Colleen, I'm a bit slow joining your journey but feel like I'm there with your great photos and comments. This journey is in my future as well. You are making a great start into retirement. Will be joining the club in 3.5 short months. Regards Graham
9/20/17Reply
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Day 12
Thursday, September 21, 2017 at 2:37 PM
⛅ 24 °C
Altitude: 878 m
Spain Hontanas 42.31261, -4.0430542°18’45” N 4°2’35” W
Give a Pilgrim a grape ...
September 21, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
and he'll take a cluster.

Pilgrims are a rather unkempt, smelly and disheveled bunch until rejuvenating showers in the late afternoom make us human again. In the big cities we stick out like sore thumbs, often our laundry blowing in the breeze, safety pinned to our backpacks to dry wet socks or shirts.

Notwithstanding our appearances we will invariably be greeted by complete strangers with a genuine "Buen Camino" -- literally have a good Camino. Last week, Coleen and I walked along a dirt path where a Spanish troop of about 70 khaki clad soldiers wielding carbines were taking a rest-on-your-haunches break. We were treated with well wishes and dozens of Buen Caminos by smiling troops.

Perhaps we're not such a bad lot after all.Read more
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Day 13
Friday, September 22, 2017 at 4:30 PM
☀️ 22 °C
Altitude: 792 m
Spain Boadilla del Camino 42.25823, -4.3464242°15’30” N 4°20’47” W
Place and pace
September 22, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
The Way, right now, is the PLACE for me. The terrain on the Meseta is remarkably familiar to me -- sun-baked Southern Alberta without the coulees. Mostly flat but at times we hike up and out of a broad valley to walk past endless fields, the wheat long since harvested and swaths of sunflowers with their heads in quiet and permanent repose, awaiting the reaping.

Coleen and I are fast walkers, often overtaking and passing other pilgrims with an "Hola and Buen Camino". One peregrina likened us to the strong easterly wind that was at our backs all day. It is our PACE, certainly not a race, and our powerful strides make me feel alive ... strong.Read more
TravelerIncredibly beautiful pics...thanks for your ongoing posts! Love the image I have of you both becoming stronger with every step!
9/24/17Reply
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Day 14
Saturday, September 23, 2017 at 3:22 PM
☀️ 25 °C
Altitude: 824 m
Spain Carrión de los Condes 42.33722, -4.6006242°20’14” N 4°36’2” W
Illumination. ...
September 23, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
... can take many forms. As we started off in the dark this morning from Boadilla our path was lit with my headlamp. Later in an ancient church, modern stain glass windows illuminated the stony interior. And then out in the daylight again where a blazing Spanish sun pushed our shadows westward to Santiago de Compostella.Read more
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Day 14
Saturday, September 23, 2017 at 9:44 PM
🌙 20 °C
Altitude: 829 m
Spain Cervatos de la Cueza 42.29968, -4.771942°17’59” N 4°46’19” W
The Fallen
September 23, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 20 °C
Marita was born 27 years ago on a beautiful summer day in Calgary. This post is dedicated to her.

There are sobering moments on the Camino when you come across a monument or a cross memorializing a pilgrim's last steps in life on the Way. Some are simple markers and others full blown headstones. Some died well on in their years and others much younger.

We have seen tributes to people from many parts of the world -- all who dreamed of making it to Santiago de Compostella but fell short. We remember the fallen, honouring them by moving forward while keeping their memory warm and close in our hearts.Read more
TravelerGlad to know you are on The Way for Marita's birthday. May her light shine on in our hearts.
9/24/17Reply
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Day 15
Sunday, September 24, 2017 at 3:23 PM
☀️ 25 °C
Altitude: 858 m
Spain Moratinos 42.36098, -4.9277842°21’40” N 4°55’40” W
The simple things ...
September 24, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
... in life are the best. Today that was two large slices of watermelon, being enthusiastically greeted by our Spanish friend Andrés, and sharing a laugh with a Belgian hiking trio. And now a tinto verano (red wine on ice with some fizzy lemon pop) at an Italian albuerge, bare feet and the anticipation of supper shortly. Ah ... muy buen!Read more
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Day 16
Monday, September 25, 2017 at 5:59 PM
⛅ 21 °C
Altitude: 869 m
Spain El Burgo Ranero 42.4242, -5.2204142°25’27” N 5°13’13” W
Sing a Song ...
September 25, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
I've been singing on the Way from time to time. Right now I have the Carpenters' "Sing a Song" on my Camino sing list.

Last night at an Italian albergue we were treated to a live guitar performance by a Spanish pilgrim who is carrying his instrument, talent and voice on the Camino. His rendition of Simon and Garfunkel's Sounds of Silence was haunting and sorrowful.

After supper the party continued with the largely Italian pilgrim cohort singing improvisational versions of Bob Dylan's Knocking on Heaven's Door, accompanied by the beautiful strumming of the Spanish pilgrim. Magic.Read more
TravelerKeep on singing......
9/25/17Reply
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Day 18
Wednesday, September 27, 2017 at 5:12 PM
☀️ 25 °C
Altitude: 818 m
Spain Hospital de Órbigo 42.45949, -5.8850242°27’34” N 5°53’6” W
Leon .. like moths to a flame
September 27, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Medieval pilgrims and modern pilgrims alike are drawn to the Spanish cities for provisions and to be wowed by their cathedrals. Leon is no exception. An elegant cathedral with exceptional stained glass windows. I could take pictures of the stained glass work alone for hours.

But after the contemplative and peaceful countryside, Leon is a bit unsettling to this Canadian pilgrim. I'll be happy to get back to some solitude and leave Leon and its cathedral to other pilgrims. Buenas Noches.Read more
TravelerLooking happy and healthy you two !
9/28/17Reply
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Day 18
Wednesday, September 27, 2017 at 6:05 PM
☀️ 25 °C
Altitude: 818 m
Spain Hospital de Órbigo 42.45949, -5.8850242°27’34” N 5°53’6” W
A Knight's Tale ...
September 27, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
It's beginning to look a lot like ... the Medieval Ages. Grand cobblestone bridges, jousting fields and all manner of statuary and signage evoking the days of knights, chivalrous deeds and quests. Loving every medieval moment.Read more
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Day 19
Thursday, September 28, 2017 at 4:26 PM
⛅ 25 °C
Altitude: 989 m
Spain Santa Catalina de Somoza 42.4551, -6.1591242°27’18” N 6°9’33” W
Slow down ... you move too fast
September 28, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
Ya gotta make the morning last. Just skipping down the cobblestones. Lookin' for fun and feeling groovy.

This Paul Simon song has come to mind many times over the past 24 hours. Last night, we stayed at a Spanish albergue that offered yoga, a vegetarian supper, and a few spiritual lessons. After this Zen experience, on our hike this morning we came across a donativo rest stop where fresh fruit and cold drinks were offered amidst some psychedelic backdrops.

Then we met a Polish expat living in Texas of all places who proudly showed us his silver bracelet that said "Old Hippy".

Groovy man.Read more
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Day 20
Friday, September 29, 2017 at 6:23 PM
☀️ 21 °C
Altitude: 1,183 m
Spain El Acebo de San Miguel 42.49784, -6.4546242°29’52” N 6°27’17” W
Cross my heart
September 29, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
We have left the Meseta, the great plains of Spain, and have headed into the mountains. Crosses everywhere including the famous iron cross at Cruz Ferro where we left a heart stone that Coleen found along the Way.

Last night we used a Sharpie on that same rock to write Marita's name on it. Always in our hearts and each step of the Camino.Read more
TravelerSounds like you both are finding the healing you need to move forward and never forget. We are with you in spirit...
9/29/17Reply
TravelerA very special and emotional moment. Thinking of you and your family . . .
9/30/17Reply
TravelerAlong the path ,one step at a a time.
10/1/17Reply
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Day 21
Saturday, September 30, 2017 at 5:39 PM
☀️ 23 °C
Altitude: 491 m
Spain Camponaraya 42.57972, -6.6687642°34’47” N 6°40’8” W
And the words of the prophet are written
September 30, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
... well in Spain, they are written everywhere. On Camino markers, underpasses and traffic signs. I have grown to appreciate the colours and novelty demonstrated by the Spanish graffiti artists and international pilgrims.Read more
TravelerKinda like watching the trains go by. Lots of artwork on them too.
9/30/17Reply
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Day 22
Sunday, October 1, 2017 at 4:55 PM
⛅ 23 °C
Altitude: 599 m
Spain La Portela de Valcarce 42.66008, -6.9180742°39’36” N 6°55’5” W
Look, there's a castle. ..
October 1, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
I love castles.

Yesterday in Ponferrada we walked the castle walls of the former bastion of the Knights Templar. Great medieval castle with a secret tunnel, turrets and pageantry. I could imagine knights on their mounted steeds, their horseshoes ringing out on the cobblestones, riding off out of the castle gates to fight in the Crusades.

A boy's dream realized.Read more
TravelerBeautiful photos. You are amazingly close to the end of you journey. Graham
10/1/17Reply
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Day 23
Monday, October 2, 2017 at 4:35 PM
☀️ 25 °C
Altitude: 1,288 m
Spain Fonfría 42.73107, -7.156942°43’52” N 7°9’25” W
Go Your Own Way
October 2, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
So I see a Pilgrim today walking down the trail backwards. Perhaps sun stroke ... perhaps just different strokes for different folks. But this peregrino was certainly hiking the Way on his terms.

And that truly is the case here on the Camino. Do we take the optional route, call over the lone pilgrim to share supper, hike onto the next town? For many this is a profoundly religous pilgrimage. Each decision a pilgrim make shapes and colours their Camino experience. We each go our own way.

By the way, I tried walking backwards for a bit. Not for me. I'll continue with my face to the West and the breeze at my back.Read more
TravelerGo West young man, go West.
10/5/17Reply
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Day 24
Tuesday, October 3, 2017 at 5:49 PM
☀️ 21 °C
Altitude: 527 m
Spain Barbadelo 42.76943, -7.4444942°46’10” N 7°26’40” W
What's in a name?
October 3, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
I tried convincing 2 Italian peregrinas that my name was Juan Diego. I said it with gusto and exuberance, and a bit of a bow. They weren't buying it. Eventually when I said my name was Scott, the one woman thought I said "Stop" and so she did.

While Coleen and I are hiking the Camino Françes, it is also known as the Way of St. James in English, or Jakobsweg in German, or Chemin de Saint Jacques in French. All pilgrims head west to Santiago de Compostella -- the Iago being Spanish for James. All referring to Saint James.

A disciple of Jesus, James had a short mission to Spain after Jesus' death, returned to the Holy Land and was beheaded by King Herod for his efforts. James' followers send his body out to sea and somehow it makes it way to Spain where centuries later his bones are discovered near present day Santiago de Compostella -- field of stars.

What's in a name? A wonderful pilgrimage indeed.Read more
TravelerCool story. You are becoming religiously enriched on this trip.
10/5/17Reply
TravelerI think the strong Canadian accent perhaps tripped the Juan Diego disguise. Can't fool those mafia types easily!!
10/6/17Reply
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Day 25
Wednesday, October 4, 2017 at 4:30 PM
☀️ 22 °C
Altitude: 538 m
Spain Gonzar 42.82517, -7.6960642°49’31” N 7°41’46” W
What makes a pilgrim?
October 4, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
I still haven't answered that question.

Some would argue that it involves a measure of sacrifice,. There are those who fall in the "no pain, no gain" camp. For others it is walking every mile of the Camino with your full backpack -- no luggage service and no taxis.

I've developed shin splints and so incurred a measure of suffering today. That said, I don't feel any more a pilgrim today than I did yesterday when each step was pain free.

I do know that each pilgrim has the physical and mental resiliency to get up each day to walk 20-30 km. and then do it again the following day. Pilgrims share stories, medical advice and some deeply personal convictions. They help and look out for each other. A remarkable community that reshapes itself around you everyday.Read more
TravelerEvery walker has a story and a privilege it must be to share. Hope they also have some ice to share for those shins!
10/5/17Reply
TravelerOf course, "no pain, no gain" has a different meaning at 16 than it does 40 years on. I do believe it does engrain a more lasting memory of an event if that is any consolation. So, you will never forget where you were on the Camino when the pain set in. Hope it was a picturesque spot. Keep well my friend.
10/5/17Reply
TravelerAhhh...such a fascinating question...I wonder if you will have an answer once you complete this incredible journey? Hope your shins heal quickly!
10/5/17Reply
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Day 26
Thursday, October 5, 2017 at 5:38 PM
☀️ 21 °C
Altitude: 460 m
Spain Melide 42.91478, -8.017242°54’53” N 8°1’2” W
Feliz Cumpleanno
October 5, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
On this fine day in Manitoba, Canada a beautiful baby, now woman, was born. Happy birthday Coleen.

Greetings from around the world are being sent your way from family, old friends and new Camino friends.

Have a great day mi amor.Read more
TravelerHappy birthday Coleen! Hope it's Awesome!!! Love the pictures!
10/5/17Reply
TravelerHappy belated birthday to you Coleen. Missed this post, sorry but i'm sure was a most memorable birthday this year.
10/8/17Reply
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