Europe - August 2023

August - September 2023
Activating a trip to visit friends that was planned pre-COVID and finally activated now. Read more
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  • Day 15

    Lake Como here we come!!

    August 15, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Another early start. The alarm sounded at 3:30am and by 4:30am we were on the road to Dusseldorf airport being driven there by our kind host David. He must have been very pleased when these pesky Australians finally left!!
    The Eurowings flight to Milan Malpensa was uneventful despite the early morning thunderstorms in Dusseldorf. On arrival we picked up our car sharing electric car we had booked to drive to Lake Como. However we encountered some technical problems because the phone app is used to unlock the car and there were some technical connection problems and the car would not unlock. This took us about 45 mins and several phone calls to eVai, the Italian car sharing company, before they were finally about to sort this out and they unlocked the car remotely. Meanwhile time was ticking and in the rush to get underway once the car was opened we did not realise the car battery charging cable connected to the charging station actually belongs to the car and is not left at the charging station. So when we dropped the car at Domaso in Lake Como we found we could not charge the car without the cable. More phone calls to sort this out, and all in Italian of course. It’s a bit hard for us to speak Italian in the phone because you can’t see the hands waving!!
    Despite these hassles caused by our to our unfamiliarity with using an electric car, the drive to Lake Como was beautiful. Fantastic warm weather and spectacular scenery.
    We have friends who are fortunate enough to have a holiday place at Gravedona on Lake Como with wonderful views over the northern parts of the lake and they have invited us to stay with them. Sara and Kris, and their two kids are holidaying there for the school holiday period and we are looking forward to spending time with them and enjoying the sights of the beautiful Lake Como. They were attending a wedding today but Sara’s parents met us and settled us into the casual and relaxing Italian lifestyle.
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  • Day 16

    Ferry, Customer Service issues, Gelato

    August 16, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Breakfast at Tiffany’s - oops, make that Breakfast at Sara’s! Carolina needs a cappuccino first thing in the morning to function on all cylinders, so what better way to enjoy a cappu than sitting out on a sun-filled balcony absorbing the morning sun, and looking out over the full vista of Lake Como. It’s a tough life!
    Sara’s parents joined us a short time later as we discussed the plans for today. We decided to take the 10:30am ferry down the Lake to Bellagio, look around this beautiful lakeside town, and come back on the 2:30pm ferry to Gravedona.
    However this is Italy, and often not all is what it seems. When we got to the ferry jetty we discovered that the 10:30am ferry had been suddenly cancelled for that day. Fortunately there was a 10am ferry which was about to leave and we managed to jump on board just before it departed. It was just as well we had left home a few mins early. The 1:30 hours ferry trip stopping at all stations to Bellagio was very relaxing. The weather was warm and sunny, even a bit hot hot as we sat in the sun, and a sliding cascade of beautiful scenery passed by for us to gaze upon and enjoy. Lake Como is a very picturesque area!
    On arrival into Bellagio there were masses of people everywhere as it is still the school holidays here. It was impossible to get a table for coffee or lunch and we were told at several places that there are no reservations and instead we must queue up in the hot sun for 30-45 mins to get a table.
    This did not seem like a good plan, so we thought we would use up a bit of time to confirm that the ferry back was operating ok.
    However this is Italy, and sure enough we found this ferry had just been cancelled with some mutterings in Italian from the ferry staff that it had just broken down. But not to worry they told us, because the next ferry leaves 3 hours later at 5:30pm!! So it was clear that we were destined to have more than enough time for a good look around Bellagio.
    It was still impossible to get a table for lunch so we started looking at the shops that seem to make up most of Bellagio. Carolina was fascinated, Peter less so. Very narrow but pretty cobblestone streets and very steep climbs and descents were the order of the day. Up and down with lots of people around. Bellagio is a very scenic town.
    Along the way we got thirsty and stopped to buy a large bottle of water at a small store. The shop girl told us it was €2.50 so we gave her a €10 note. The response was “we don’t take change”. OK we replied and prepared to pay by card. The reply was “We only accept cards for €5 minimum”. So we replied “You will not accept cash or card, so how can we buy this bottle of water?” The reply - “Buy 2 bottles of water”. The staff there were rude, very unhelpful, and seemed to have no interest in looking after a customer. Carolina was horrified and livid!!
    We finally trudged out of the shop with Peter carrying 2 large bottles of water in his backpack with Carolina remonstrating about the lack of customer service of some Italian shop staff.
    At that point we got to a cafe that had some tables available. So we asked the waiter if we could sit at one of them. His answer was “No, they are not my tables”. So we asked whose tables they were and he shrugged and pointed to another waiter. It seems each waiter looks after his set of tables and is not interested in any customers that need to sit at some other tables in the same restaurant! Again Carolina was livid about the Italian customer service or lack thereof.
    So we finally spoke to the right waiter for one of the vacant tables and managed to get some lunch.
    Later in the day after trudging up and down hills visiting lots more shops while we bided the time until the late ferry departed, we treated ourselves to large amaretto gelato!! That made us feel much better!
    The ferry trip back to Gravedona was again spectacular. The sun was beginning to set and the water, mountains, and clouds all painted beautiful pictures for us to end the day.
    And then it all changed! A storm suddenly hit with lightning, winds over 50kts, large waves, and heavy rain. The wind caused the ferry to be jammed against the jetty at one of the stops and had a lot of trouble leaving. After that the ferry stopped in the middle of the lake and waited for about 20 mins for the weather to pass through before continuing. So the day ended on an adventurous note.
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  • Day 17

    George Clooney country

    August 17, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Another beautiful day in paradise. The hot temperatures and humidity had dropped off after last nights rain resulting in perfect weather. Our friends have a house in Como where they normally live which is about 1:15 hours from their holiday house in Gravedona. Today they had things to do in Como so we tagged along and while they did their business we looked around the city and lakeside areas of Como. This is the main city in the Lake Como area with a population of about half a million. It is located at the southern end of the lefthand or western branch of Lake Como and is a busy boating and tourist city.
    George Clooney has a house about 15km north of Como. Villa Oleandra is situated in one of the most beautiful areas of Lake Como and is large villa that is not visible from the road but can be seen clearly from the water and the ferries passing by.
    Carolina has been waiting for George to invite us for coffee or drinks with him at his villa, but from our experiences in Italy so far we realise that either his invitation to us or the information he should have received about our visit here, has most likely been mislaid or misdirected. We know he will be sorry to have missed catching up with us this time but hopefully he will come to see us in Noosa sometime instead. So today we drove past his villa and did not drop in to see him as we did not want to surprise him too much.
    Como was again very busy with summer tourists. Sara kindly dropped us off in the city centre and we planned to catch the hydrofoil ferry back to Gravedona at 4:10pm in the afternoon. While Carolina went shopping, Peter stood in a queue at the ferry ticket office for an hour, only to find out that’s this ferry had been cancelled today (this is Italy). So Sara picked us up again when she was leaving to return to Gravedona. In the meantime had a nice time looking around Como for about 3 hours, but it was nice to get way from the crowds and head back to the quieter northern areas of Lake Como.
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  • Day 18

    More Lake Beauty and a Piadina Lunch

    August 18, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    A long sleep-in today with a 9am breakfast. We are definitely on holidays.
    Today was our chance for some touring by ourselves as Sara and Kris offered us use of their car for the day. Yesterday we had seen the western side of the Lake while en route to Como, so late morning today we headed off to see some of the eastern side of the Lake. Small picturesque villages dot the edges all around of the lake and as you drive you are passing through these every few minutes. Between these town the sights of Como lake are spectacular. Most of the towns are small with perhaps a few hundred residents, but some are larger. Today the larger towns included Bellamo and Varenna, two very scenic towns which are very popular tourist places. It was these two towns in particular that we wanted to see.
    Bellamo has a unique strategy for presenting itself to visitors. Most large buildings have very large portrait photos on most of the walls. This adds an interesting element to a walk around the town. The town is situated in a lovely cove and has a ferry terminal. Getting a parking place was difficult but we finally managed to get one quite close to the town centre and had a good walk all around seeing the sights. Great weather with great views! We had the obligatory cappuccino and then shared some Piadinas for lunch. These are flat breads folded with cheese and ham in the middle and make for a typical Italian light lunch.
    Then it was on towards Varenna which is the largest town on the eastern side of the lake. Again this has a large ferry terminal with a walkway that clings to the edges of the high rock walls of the surrounding mountains to connect the ferry area to the main part of the town. Lots of shops, hotels, restaurants line the stone beach and the edge of the mountains. All over Italy there are beautiful old buildings built centuries ago and Varenna is no exception. A really scenic town with a mixture of history and beauty. Lots of tourists around and parking again was a problem. We finally did find a parking spot about a kilometre outside the town but then found that the parking meter would only accept €2 coins even though it was supposed to accept all euro coins. There were no shops or people around and we only had one €2 coins which gave 1 hour parking. We did not want to get a parking ticket in Sara’s car so we were limited to one hour seeing the sights of Varenna. We saw everything but Carolina would have liked to stay longer.
    We return to Gravedona around 5:30pm for some Aperol Spritz with our friends on their balcony overlooking the lake views. Kris followed this up by making a wonderful Porcini mushroom risotto. A long chat over dinner with a few liquors afterwards ended another very nice day.
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  • Day 19

    A Change to Mountain Trails

    August 19, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    A change of scenery today. We have seen a lot of Lake Como and the small towns that populate along the lakeside areas. So today we decided to do something different and head into parts of the local mountains. The mountains are very spectacular with tall sharp peaks indicating they were formed relatively recently. We don’t see these types of peaks in Australia as everything is so much older and worn down. From a distance we can see the mountains that reach over 3000m in height which are located on the border with Switzerland and the ski resort of St Moritz is only about 60km away.
    Today Kris drive us up into the local mountains up to the town of Livo and from there we did a 7km hike along a mountain trail up to a small set of rock pools and a small cafe bar. This was a very nice walk over rolling scenery and even with several goats peacefully resting along side the trail. One thing we have noticed is that despite being summer, everything is very green and lush. Kris said this is very unusual for this time of year and is caused by the large amount of unseasonal rain they had here earlier this year.
    Today was humid and around 29 degrees which was a bit unpleasant at times, but a lot of the walk was shady. We were not able to go down the pools area because the descent was quite difficult and slippery which was a shame because the water is reputedly to be nice and cold. We did however have some beverages from the bar to rehydrate and admire the scenery before heading back. The walk was very pleasant and made for a good change to what we have been seeing and doing over the last few days.
    This evening we again headed back into the mountains but this time to a well known restaurant called St Anna in the hills that serves very good food. A nice family run restaurant that serves lovely homemade Italian food. Sara had made the booking more than a week ago as it is always fully booked. I’m n the way home we stopped to look at the lights of Gravedona and Lake Como.
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  • Day 21

    Onwards to France!

    August 21, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Yesterday was our last day with our friends at Lake Como and we had a relaxing day in Gravedona. They took us to the Sailing Club on the lake where we lay in the sun and later had lunch. Back at their home we did some admin work on the computer before packing our bags for the next day.
    Last night was a memorable evening. Kris cooked a typical and delicious Italian eggplant pasta served with cold meats and cheese antipasto. The evening sunset views over the lake were beautiful as we chatted while listening to a range of Andre Bocelli music. A great way to round off our lovely stay here in Italy.
    Today we picked up our E-Vai car-sharing electric car and drove to Milan Malpensa airport. A hot day but thankfully in the air conditioned car, and the route we took was along the western shores of Lake Como. Lovely scenery!
    Then it was off to Terminal 2 for our easyJet flight to Bordeaux in France.
    Our plans to meet up with our friends Peter & Lou on their lovely canal boat experienced a bit of a hiccup earlier in the week. Plan A was to meet them in Bordeaux and spend the next 9 days slowly cruising eastwards on the Garonne River, the Lot River, and the Canal Lateral à La Garonne finishing up in Toulouse. However last week a large commercial barge smashed into the doors of one of the large locks on the Garonne River severely damaging the lock and putting it out of action. Since then no boats have been able to travel on the Garonne River until this lock is fixed. So Pete & Lou have not been able to get to Bordeaux and our cruise plans have had to change.
    Plan B now is for us to meet Pete & Lou on their boat at Carcassonne. This means us flying to Bordeaux as scheduled but staying overnight tonight because the flight gets into Bordeaux too late to catch the train to Carcassonne. Early tomorrow morning we will catch the train and meet up with our friends in Carcassonne around 10am. The cruise route we take after that is up to our friends to work out but we hope that in 9 days we will still be back in Toulouse to start the journey back home to Brisbane.
    Today the flight was uneventful and we arrived OK in Bordeaux on time and finally reached our hotel at 9:00pm.
    Another early start tomorrow with the alarm is set for 5am. It’s going to be another hot day so we hope the train journey goes well. We are looking forward to seeing our friends and relaxing as we cruise the canals of France.
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  • Day 22

    Croisière en Bateau Fluvial

    August 22, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 38 °C

    It’s 7am and as the sun slowly peeks above the horizon the scenery flashes by at 160kph. We are on the Intercité train IC 4655 en route for the 3 hour trip to Carcassonne via Toulouse. It’s going to be a very hot day with temps forecast to be 40 degrees!! The southern part of Europe has been sweltering for much of the summer, and while we have avoided most of this so far on our trip it looks like the weather has finally caught up with us. Fortunately the train is air conditioned and journey is comfortable.
    Last night we stayed in a hotel directly opposite the train station and in amongst lots of small restaurants, so it was a very convenient location. It took us all of 2 mins this morning to get to the Gare St Jean station to catch our train.
    Our friends Pete & Lou met us at the Carcassonne station and showed us the way for the short 300m walk to Le Bateau Leander, their lovely canal boat. They are from the UK but live on their boat for about 5 months if every year cruising along the many canals of France and sometimes the canals of some of the surrounding countries. Their boat is a 26m long by 8m wide Dutch barge built in the UK and fitted out like a luxurious 2-bedroom condominium. This is cruising the canals in style!! It was very nice to meet up with them again as we have not seen since before COVID.
    Canal boat cruising is one of the nicest ways to see the countryside of France. It is relaxing as you leisurely cruise along at a usual speed of less than 10kph with the water and scenery slowly passing by. The main excitement is when you pass through one of the many locks needed to change water levels, and these come up about every hour, sometimes more often. The canals in France pass through the very centre of the towns and cities and you can stop anywhere you want at any time. Very convenient. Today Pete had moored the boat very close to the Carcassonne station to ease our coming in board.
    Pete is the chief trip planner and after we had boarded and settled in he suggested delaying the start of our canal boat cruise until tomorrow, and instead suggested we spend today looking around the medieval town and castle of Carcassonne. Built as a fortress by the Romans 2,500 years ago and rebuilt and extended several times since, this castle is an impressive structure that houses a small town which has become a major tourist attraction. We have been here before but it was nice to see it again. The four of us looked around the Citadel and had lunch at one of the many restaurants until the heat of the day caused us to head back to the cool air conditioning of the boat.
    Tomorrow we will leave early on the canal boat cruising section of our trip.
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  • Day 23

    A Hot Day on the Canals

    August 23, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 40 °C

    It was 41 degrees today - enough said! The hottest day of our trip and a world away from the cold weather we experienced in the Lake District just a few weeks ago where it was also supposed to be summer.
    We left Carcassonne as early as possible trying to avoid travelling too much during the hot part of the day. But of course this is France where no really wants to work so the canal locks do not open until 9am and close again at 12 noon, before reopening again at 1pm. So really the earliest we could leave was 9am as we were close to the first lock.
    Most of the morning was a pleasant temperature and not too hot as we cruised west along the Canal du Midi. Very nice scenery and and very relaxing cruising along at 8kph.
    By noon the temperature was definitely rising so while the lock keepers had their lunch break we stopped and enjoyed a good break in the air conditioning inside the boat.
    The afternoon was a bit of different story. It was hot, and as we passed through a number of locks and had to spend time outside we felt the heat. Carolina provided a steady stream of drinks to everyone which was very appreciated.
    We had planned to stop mid-afternoon and cocoon ourselves inside the air conditioned boat, but it did not work out that way because we could not find a suitable mooring along the canal. Lots of undergrowth and trees prevented any access to the banks of the canal so we could not tie up anywhere. This went on for about 2 hours before we finally found a really nice spot with shade from the hot sun and some breeze from the surrounding paddocks. Peter had to jump off onto the bank and fight his way through some of the undergrowth to tie up to some trees, but aside from this inconvenience it was a nice spot.
    After a siesta in the air conditioning to cool down we had a really nice BBQ and salad dinner and some vino on the upper outside deck area as the sun set. A very nice evening chatting and enjoying the peaceful surroundings.
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  • Day 24

    The Day of Locks

    August 24, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 38 °C

    At last the weather is cooling off a bit. Today was still warm, even hot at times, but there was a very welcome breeze blowing to keep us a bit cooler.
    Today was a climbing day. How do you climb on water you may ask? The answer is the canal lock system whereby you use locks to increase the water level in increments and then cruise along the new higher level to the next lock at which you increase the water level again.
    So today we passed through 12 climbing locks which were a mixture of single, double, triple, and one quad lock.
    The quad lock was our last before we reached our destination of Castelnaudary and this one was the most spectacular with giant waterfalls gushing out in front of the boat as each stage of the 4-tier lock was reached. Then it was a short cruise across the small lake to our mooring spot near the city centre.
    A lot of locks today and each one had it own challenges and beauty. There was a lock keeper, or éclusier, for each lock; some were super friendly, some were super grumpy including one that insisted on seeing all the ships papers and cruising permits. This took our friend Pete some time to download from his computer and in the meantime all the other boats were held up by the inconsiderate éclusie.
    Each of us has roles to do on board as we pass through these locks. Our Captain Pete is the expert helmsman and stern rope handler; Peter is the bow rope handler and general dogsbody; Lou is the lock operator running up to the lock control panel and pushing the buttons at the lock to activate the process; and Carolina had the all-important role of supplying us all with a steady stream of drinks, water, and cooling towels, and being camera operator. These locks are hot work and it is quite physical, and is not made any easier by the hot weather.
    By the time we reached our destination for the day we were all in need of a cool shower, a change of clothes, and a relaxing G&T.
    In the evening we had a few rosés and tapas at a wine bar overlooking the river, followed by dinner in a restaurant barge on the river. On the walk home our boat, the Leander, looked very nice in the glow of the evening stars, lights, and an almost full moon.
    Tomorrow is going to be a rest day with no cruising. Pete has some work to do on his boat. Peter will help and also has some admin computer work to do. Carolina and Lou will peruse the shops and do some yoga. It will be quiet day but with an unusual evening activity because tomorrow night there is a Drag Queen show taking place on the banks of the canal just down from where we are moored which should be a good laugh and a fun night out!
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  • Day 26

    Life is not a Drag!

    August 26, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Who would have thought! A Drag Queen evening in the small French town of Castelnaudary. What a fun evening last night! Performed by local people whose normal job is serving the tourists coming though the town mainly in boats, they put a on a really fun show. Some of the guys dressed up very well and were quite good dancers, and there was one girl who was obviously a professional singer who came on several times and sang very well
    It was a dinner show and the main course was cassoulet, a typical French meal made with beans and different meats. Interestingly this dish was invented in this town, so of course it was the main meal.
    The small town was lit up along the river for this Drag Queen event and the whole night was very enjoyable.
    Today the temperature was a lot cooler and around 22 degrees with showers all day. How the weather has changed over the last 3 days! The cruising today was through some really nice French countryside with large green trees overhanging the canals. It was a cruisy day, not too many locks, and not many other boats. Very relaxing.
    Towards the end of the day we reached our destination of Gardouch and moored up via ground spikes on the banks of the canal just out of town in a nice quiet spot.
    Why was Gardouch chosen to stay tonight? Because of a restaurant called L’Estanquet. Not the world’s best known place but Pete & Lou had been here before and found the food to be terrific. So as the sunset we walked the 800m from our mooring down the restaurant. Again, who would have thought! A small restaurant in the middle of nowhere ended up giving us one of the best meals of our trip! Oysters, prawns, ribs, salmon, pork, and for desert a beautifully made crème brûlée and banaoffee! A lively meal!
    Then it was time to walk back to the boat but in the rain. And as we climbed back in the boat with wet shoes Peter’s shoes slipped on the steps and he fell down last portion of the stairs into his back. Everyone rushed to his aid but aside from a bruised ego he was thankfully fine. Peter stressed that the fall was not due to the nice rosé consumed during the meal!!
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