SE Asia

marca - maja 2024
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  • Dzień 62

    Hanoi ➡️ Ha Giang

    11 maja, Wietnam ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Finally moving out of Hanoi today! It would've made more sense to go North to Cao Bang first, as there's some waterfalls I want to see there which border China. However I was feeling so wiped out, and pretty decision fatigued, so a four day tour meant I wouldn't have to plan or think about anything, so it was perfect!
    Hopped on a bus just after 11.30 which took us out of the city onto a sleeper bus. The beds on the bus were double ones, which gave me backs of having to share one on the bus to Laos, so started to panic a little. Luckily I had no unexpected visitors, and got the bed to myself. Was a nice journey, had lovely green views and was only 6 hours long.
    Once in Ha Giang, was blessed by the double bed god's again! I'd never seen a double bunk bed dorm before, was very exciting haha.
    After dinner, I went downstairs just to fill my water bottle up, but then found the hostel kitten. He sat and curled up on my lap, meaning I couldn't move for 45 minutes, but no complaints.
    We set off at 9 tomorrow morning to start the loop, and leave our big bags at the hostel, only taking a small rucksack that can fit on the back of the motorbike. The weather forecast doesn't look great, but regardless, I'm very excited!
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  • Dzień 58–62

    Hanoi day 3, 4, 5 & 6

    7 maja, Wietnam ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Kath left on day 3 which was very sad. Her fight wasn't until 6.30pm, so we had the morning to grab food and do a little more shopping.
    We got to the airport around 3.30 as we'd both heard Hanoi airport is chaos, but Kath checked in in no time and we hung out before a teary goodbye.
    I then hopped on a grab motorbike for the first time in 3 weeks (Kath refused to get on one)! It was definitely an experience driving through Hanoi in rush hour, and took nearly an hour to get back to the hostel!
    Returning to an empty room was very sad. It started raining so I used that as an excuse not to leave the room and get takeaway for dinner :)
    The next couple days I still wasn't feeling very well so didn't get up to a lot. I checked out of our hostel into another with dorms, and had some great long lie-ins. During the days I just wandered round the city grabbing food and coffee, catching up on errands (including buying new glasses as mine broke a few weeks ago, and then I lost a lense to the sea in Cat Ba 🤣). On day 5 I thought I should do something more productive, so I went to the temple of literature. The temple was built in 1070 and was Vietnam's first national university, until 1779. Names of past scholars were inscribed onto huge stone slabs on top of turtle statues, and there were some nice gardens in-between the buildings. There wasn't loads to see there, but it's an important place in Vietnam's history, so much so it features on the back of the 100,000 dong note.
    I'm finally leaving Hanoi tomorrow after pretty much a week here. I'm feeling 95% recovered, so I've booked to do the four day Ha Giang loop tour, and head up to Ha Giang tomorrow to start the following day!
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  • Dzień 57

    Hanoi day 2

    6 maja, Wietnam ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Unfortunately we both woke up still feeling rough this morning :( we went for a very disappointing breakfast then explored a temple in the middle of the lake in the city centre commemorating an ancient story of a turtle and a sword.
    After resisting for 3 weeks, we finally did some tacky souvenir shops! They were honestly great and we picked up some postcards, magnets, Kath got me a tiny metal Buddha and I got her a bigger stone Buddha as an early bday present, amongst other things.
    We then looked around the city cathedral built by the French, which looked impressive from the outside but there wasn't much to look at inside.
    The highlight of the day was a traditional water puppet show at Thang Long theatre. It was a 50 minute show of 16 short traditional stories. There was 10 performers either side of the stage dressed in brightly coloured clothes who played instruments and narrated (we had a headset for English translation). It was an extremely enjoyable watch and very clever and charming. When the show finished, the water puppeteers appeared from under the stage, and I hadn't realised they were standing in the water while controlling the puppets!
    Our original plan for our last night together was to go to one of the cheapest Michelin star restaurants, which is in Hanoi, but we thought it'd be wasted on us, so we found a very nice (though less fancy) vegetarian restaurant for dinner.
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  • Dzień 56

    Hanoi day 1

    5 maja, Wietnam ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Had a slow start to the morning, but eventually decided to do a walking tour as it would take us round the city a bit, but require minimal thinking from us as we are both still feeling quite ill.
    We met our tour guide just after 12, and there was only one other person with us. We got a little brief overview of Vietnam's history, which I surprising knew quite a bit of already from all our other trips, then got shown around the French quarter. The old quarter where we are staying is full of busy streets full of cafes, restaurants, hostels and shops of all kind, with tiny alleys tucked away. It's very busy, and is where most things seem to be happening. The French quarter is less busy, has more grand buildings and designer shops and well as government buildings. We stopped off at the Women's museum, a place celebrating Vietnamese women. It had information and displays from cultures and traditions of many of the ethnic minority groups in Vietnam, as well as the history of women's roles within Vietnamese society. It was really interesting and different to most other museums, which I really liked.
    I could've spent another 30 minutes looking around but we were whisked away to get to train street before the train arrived. Our guide ushered us past the guarded barrier and plonked us down on seats outside a cafe, a mere metre from the train track running through the narrow street. The street was lined with excited tourists sat outside coffee shops, and no less than 5 minutes after ordering our drinks, everyone started to stand us which indicated the train was arriving. It whizzed through the street pretty fast, I think if I stretched out my arm enough I could've touched it!
    Our guide said it'd only been a tourist attraction since 2017, and even though was a cliché thing to do, I enjoyed it much more than expected!
    Our final stop was Hoa Lo prison. It was originally built by French colonists in 1896 and primarily kept and tortured political prisoners. The conditions there sounded awful and the torture devices on display were brutal. It was pretty harrowing learning about the history, and shocking to see the tiny rooms where hundreds of people were kept.
    In the courtyard and another section of the prison, we then learnt how US soldiers were kept and treated during the cold war. Just under 600 American pilots were captured and detained in the prison from 1964-73. Reading online afterwards, there were reports of brutal interrogation and torture in the prison, however this wasn't mentioned anywhere. Despite this, on the whole the American prisoners were seemingly treated extremely well and humanely considering the circumstances. They ate better foods than people did in the surrounding villages, were rationed 3 cigarettes a day and allowed a lot of recreation time. Stories from soldiers after they were released testify to this, and the excellent treatment of prisoners is how the place got the nickname the 'Hanoi Hilton'.
    It was such a juxtaposition to learn about the two very different uses of the prison. It was quite emotional, especially when you think Vietnamese people were treated so badly by people who colonized their country, yet treated those trying to invade them so humanely. The prison information was of course slightly biased, but regardless, was a really interesting visit.
    Later on, after the tour had finished, we hit up a cafe called the note cafe, a cafe covered in post-it notes very popular with travellers and instagram photographers. It was a tall skinny building with a winding staircase leading to four floors, with every single wall covered in colourful written notes. It was actually very cool, and we sat and wrote our own notes as we had a drink.
    The main street outside the cafe, and around the lake in the city centre is closed off at the weekend to vehicles, so was full of people, mostly locals enjoying the space with their families. During the day there was kids racing up and down on bikes and in tiny plastic cars, and now was full of families dancing and playing with kites. Was lovely to watch out of the window.
    We had a very poor attempt at eating dinner, neither of us really have an appetite but know we need to eat to have some energy.
    It's Kath's last full day tomorrow so we're hoping we both feeling better so we can make the most of it!
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  • Dzień 55

    Cat Ba ➡️ Hanoi

    4 maja, Wietnam ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Despite still not feeling great, we made the decision to move to Hanoi as we both thought we'd be capable, and there's a lot more to do there compared to Cat Ba.
    Our bus was at 12.30 and we arrived in Hanoi just before 5. We hadn't quite booked the hostel we thought, Kath was annoyed but I was so happy just to lying down 😂
    She ventured out for food, then I joined her later on in the evening to wander the night markets. Maybe not the best idea as it was busy and sweaty, and also had a variety of smells which made me feel quite nauseous. But we managed, grabbed a tea then headed back for an early night.
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  • Dzień 54

    Cat Ba day 2

    3 maja, Wietnam ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Today started off SO well. Had a bit of a lie in, had free breakfast at the hotel. Was the best free breakfast thus far, had chocolate banana pancake, followed by yogurt and fruit, toast and tea! Then we got to see the puppy that sits outside the hotel, and sat and cuddled with him while we decided what to do.
    It rained so much this morning and there was a huge thunder and lightning storms again in the early hours of the morning, so we decided just to go to a coffee shop, catch up on admin and just have the morning to chill. This is when I was starting to feel a little unwell.
    After a couple hours in the coffee shop, we wandered back to the hotel while umming and ahhing whether to go for a walk in the national park or not. We decided against it as we both weren't feeling that great. I had a nap while Kath went for a walk, then all went a bit downhill from there.
    I was horribly ill for all of 20 minutes, then spent the rest of the afternoon in bed feeling awful. Kath was my nurse and went out to get me electrolyte drinks, sweet and medicine. I knew I was properly ill as I'd lost my appetite completely, so Kath went out for dinner on her own while I felt sorry for myself.
    We are hoping to head to Hanoi tomorrow but will see how I feel in the morning!
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  • Dzień 53

    Cat Ba day 1 / Lan Ha Bay

    2 maja, Wietnam ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Today we ventured to Lan Ha Bay, the little sibling of the famous Ha Long bay. We decided not to do the latter as we had seen photos of how crowded the stops are and heard it was expensive if you wanted a nice cruise. Instead we to opted to explore Lan Ha Bay, which was once part of Ha Long bay, it's only now divided by territory, so it shares the exact same geological features, just on a smaller scale. Lan Ha Bay has nearly 400 islands and islets, whereas Ha Long has 1500+. Ha Long was declared a world heritage site in 1994 so has been bombarded with tour boats ever since, whereas Lan Ha is still used by locals and fishing communities so us much less crowded and cheaper!
    Our boat set off just after 9. There were just 30 of us on the boat, the lower floor had tables to eat around and the upper two decks had an array of seating, deckchairs at the top and comfy seats on the second floor. So there was more than enough room for all of us, and I didn't feel crowded which was nice.
    No sooner than sailing for 10 minutes, we were surrounded by striking limestone rocks jutting out for the ocean, covered in lush greenery and trees. Big brown rock eagles circled the many islands, with small fishing boats trawling alongside us and locals collecting snails on small beaches islands provided. It was pretty magical, and reminded me a little of Milford sound in New Zealand. Unfortunately it was overcast so the sky was quite grey and moody, but it made it very atmospheric. We'd also be complaining about the heat during the heatwave so felt wrong to complain about being slightly cold after being so hot for so long!
    We cruised for about an hour and a half before we docked and hopped onto land then into kayaks. Not gonna name names but one of us was definitely more adept than the other at kayaking, and did a lot of the directing and paddling 😉 we paddled down stream from the boat, through a cave into a huge sea lagoon surrounded by gorgeous green cliffs. Apparently there's an endangered species of monkey called the Cat Ba langur that lives in the area, so we kept our eyes peeled, scanning the trees, but unfortunately didn't see any. The lagoon was so peaceful, and the scenery absolutely stunning. I could've bobbed around for hours taking in the sounds and sights. We headed back after a nice long loop of the lagoon. Paddling upstream back to the boat was significantly harder than on the way there, but once aboard, we were promised the next stop was lunch!
    As the captain took us somewhere nice to eat, the skies grew more and more grey until it absolutely chucked it down. We ate our buffet in the shelter of the downstairs floor as the heavens opened up and thunder echoed around the bay.
    We got an hour after food to swim and relax. The rain was absolutely freezing, but once you jumped into the water it was pleasantly warm. It took Kath a little while to build up the courage to jump in, so her lips were blue and shivering before she even started swimming. I did really want to push her in but I don't think she would've ever forgiven me. It was very relaxing swimming in the rain, and I did my best not to look down as the water was very murky, and I get scared swimming in deep water if I think about it too much!
    The rain continued to hammer down, but conveniently stopped when we arrived at our next destination. A small fish farm where schools of fish are bred to sell to Cat Ba island and the mainland for consumption. The farm was made up of thin wooden planks crossing over to make small pens where nets held groups of different fish. Some of the fish were so big and beautiful, was quite sad to see them contained to such small spaces, but interesting to see how the locals lived and made money.
    We boarded back on the boat and sailed over to our last stop, where the captain dropped the anchor with a view of 'monkey island'. Just an island where a group of monkeys live, but it was nice to watch them in the distance as they ran across the sand.
    On the way back to the port, we passed through a fishing village made up of hundreds of the fish farms like the one we had visited. Over 200 families live on these farms, with ferries taking kids to local schools. We saw a surprising amount of dogs and cats too sauntering about on the floating wooden islands. Definitely a completely different way of life!
    We got back to our hotel just after 5, and with sunset approaching, there weren't a lot of options for evening activities other than eating and drinking on the island.
    There is a very cute puppy who sits outside the hotel, his back leg looks broken and doesn't use it, but greeted us with the happiest tail wag and licked every bit of salt off our legs.
    We want to explore the national park on the island tomorrow, but the weather isn't predicted to be very good, so we held off on booking a trekking tour, with the hopes it may clear up.
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  • Dzień 52

    Ninh Bihn ➡️ Cat Ba

    1 maja, Wietnam ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

    I didn't get a chance to eat my free breakfast this morning as no sooner than the lady put my pineapple pancakes on the table, our car arrived. Our hostel host very kindly bagged it up for me, but then left in the car when we hopped out to grab the bus :(
    The bus was about 4 hours to the port where we hopped on a shabby little ferry for a short crossing over to Cat Ba island (largest island in Vietnam).
    It's not a super beachy island, but very green. We passed lots of very cute water buffalo, which Kath feels the need to point out EVERYtime we see one, and quite a few small fishing ports.
    Luckily the ground floor of our hostel was a vegan restaurant, so wasn't a hassle to find food when we arrived which made very happy. There was also a hotel cat lounging in the lobby which made Kath very happy.
    In the afternoon, we got a little electric cart over to one of the small beaches to have a swim, and sat on the beach reading until the wind picked up so much we got a face full of sand.
    It's a bit of a resort feel on the island which I didn't expect, in the fact everywhere we looked to eat and drink was just full of tourists. Seems a lot to do in the day, but not of night life, which to be fair we wouldn't be immersing ourselves in greatly anyway aha. We grabbed some drinks at a bar along the seafront and then some food along from our hostel. We've booked a tour of Lan Ha Bay tomorrow so early start (again).
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  • Dzień 51

    Ninh Binh day 3

    30 kwietnia, Wietnam ⋅ ☀️ 40 °C

    Very happy with the decision to move hostel, this one is much nicer, is ran by a whole family including the grandparents. I had banana pancakes cooked by grandma for breakfast.
    Today we did a tour of a few of the cultural sites in Ninh Binh in the area north of us, Trang An. Our hostel is situated down a dirt track 250m off the main road so the bus picking us up wouldn't down. When it arrived, the hostel offered to drive us up the track on bikes. I happily hopped aboard to save the walk but Kath refused, and I couldn't help but laugh as she walked behind and I zoomed away.
    Our first stop was, Hoa Lu ancient capital, which was the first capital of Vietnam. It was chosen for capital as the surrounding mountains offered protection, and the rivers allowed trade to pass through. Despite this, the era last short lived (968-1010), before the capital was moved further north to Hanoi.
    The actual ancient citadel no longer exists, so the site is historically cultural, but there wasn't a lot to show for it. The main attractions were two temples dedicated to kings which weren't built until the 17th century, and an 11th century small pagoda, whose view behind it was more impressive than the site as a whole, but still interesting to learn a little history.
    The second stop was contrastingly different to the first in the fact it was very modern, most of it was built between 2003-10. Bai Dinh temple is the largest complex of Buddhist temples in Vietnam, it's also become a popular site for Buddhist pilgrimages from across Vietnam.
    The original old Bai Dinh Pagoda, is a very small temple under a mountain dating back to the 11th century.
    But the most impressive part of the complex was a winding corridor displaying 500 stone Arhat statues (a follower of Buddha who has gained spiritual enlightenment) with over 10,000 smaller golden Buddha statues in small glass cases set into the walls behind them. The stone statues were pulling different facial expressions and poses, and had shiny knees, toes hands, bellies etc... from people touching them as they walked past. Some statues were accompanied by small animals who had worn heads or noses from being constantly pet.
    This corridor took us up 200 steps up to the darma hall, a grand dark wood room embellished with gold, displaying a huge golden Buddha in the centre that stood 10 meters tall and weighed over 100 tons. He was accompanied by two 7 meter golden statues, then eight wooden Vajrapani protector statues lined the wall, which was adorned by 100's more tiny Buddha's. The hall was mesmerising-ly beautiful, for sure the most impressive one I've seen since leaving Thailand.
    There was also a bell tower, another hall with a different gold buddha, and some decorated stone gates. I think there was quite a few areas of the complex we didn't see, but we were on a time schedule, it was also sweltering hot (again) so keeping walking to a minimum was ideal.
    After lunch, our last stop of the day was Trang An boat tour. Despite being accompanied by hundreds of other boats, the 2 hour trip was very peaceful. We followed the river as it snaked down the valley, through caves and past islands, with mountains towering either side of us. We passed through three caves, the longest stretching out 300m and made two stops at mountainside temples.
    There was 4 of us on the boat, and our driver was quite an old woman, but boy she could paddle. There were smaller plastic paddles that we could use, but I think we were more of a hindrance than a help to her.
    Today was a national holiday, reunification day, when the North Vietnamese and Viet Cong soldiers captured Ho Chi Minh city, ending the cold war (1975). Thus we thought there'd be something happening in the centre, so we ventured back into Trang An. There was a huge stage lit up infront of a pagoda sat on the water, with flashing lights and crowds lining up on either side of the river, and even boats of people spectating from the water. We waited 45 minutes only to find out the show was celebrating 10 years since the area was awarded world heritage status. It was fun, some singing and dancing (all in Vietnamese). Did consider hanging around til the end in hope of fireworks, but it was so packed, we didn't want to get swept away in the crowds and I was hungry haha. We didn't end up finding food in Trang An so headed back to the spot in Tam Coc we found nice beer at last night and got some spring rolls for tea (best spring rolls of the trip so faaar!).
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  • Dzień 50

    Ninh Binh day 2

    29 kwietnia, Wietnam ⋅ ☀️ 39 °C

    We seemed to have picked our first dud accommodation. The room is not the nicest, but the killer is the beds are absolutely rock solid, so neither of us got the best night sleep. It's on £15 a night, so we decided to move a day earlier to a new accommodation for the sake of our backs.
    The new place was only 10 minutes down the road, but it was a long 10 minutes there with heavy rucksacks on our backs and bags balancing in front baskets on our bikes. But we made it!
    Checked into our new place, we cycled 20 minutes to the basepoint of a famous viewpoint. We started the climb before 9, but that evidently wasn't early enough as it was already over 30° by then! The ascent was only 500 steps but was an absolute killer, some of these steps were deep, and I needed lots of rest stops to make it all the way up. I don't think I've ever been so sweaty.
    The view at the top was worth it though! One side you could see the mountain path of the smaller viewpoint with a lotus pond garden and rice fields in the background. The other side was lush green mountains intersected by a valley and river with tiny boats meandering down. The very top had 20m long concrete dragon you had to scrabble up to, and you could make your way along by clinging on to his spines and hopping over rocks. Making your way along the dragon wasn't a very popular path (it was a little sketchy) so when I reached his tail, I had the whole viewpoint to myself!
    In need of some sort of energy, we climbed back down and bought some coconuts at a cafe at the base, before exploring two very underwhelming caves which the viewpoint is named after! (Mua caves). More excitingly, there was a very beautiful lotus field with bridges and platforms across which was more fun to look round, even though the lotus weren't in bloom, the field (more of a pond) was still gorgeous.
    We dropped our trusty bikes back at the rental, before grabbing lunch and checking in properly to our new (much nicer) accommodation. Once lying down in aircon, it's vert hard to muster up the energy to go out into the wall of heat waiting outside. But we did! (after a little nap). This time with even creakier pedal bikes, courtesy of the hostel, we ventured to another coffee spot in the middle of nowhere, and had the whole place to our selves!
    There were lots of birds in this area, so Kath watched some sort of cranes circle the rice fields while I sat and wrote on this app haha. Cycling here we spotted what we now know is a coucal or crow pheasant. It flew right in front of us carrying a fish. It's got the body of a large crow but with chocolate brown wings, a long black tail and red eyes, quite a cool bird.
    After bird watching and trying to locate where a particular dog was barking from (the nose was echoing across the whole valley) we headed back before it went dark. Spotted another kingfisher, this time happily sat on a wire. He was pretty close but I still failed to get a decent photo.
    Later on, we found a place that did local craft beer and cider which we were both very happy about. My beer was by Pasteur street, which is a brewery based in Ho Chin Min. I tried a passion fruit wheat beer and Jasmine IPA, both were very delicious. After great drinks we then had very disappointing food. So disappointing, it didn't even get a feature on my 20 photo selection of the day. We went to a vegetarian place that did Vietnamese and western food, and on a whim I decided to get a pizza... It was not a good pizza. Serves me right for ordering western food!
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