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A short but fine adventure by Faye Read more
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  • TravelerCruising Northern Europe
    1
    Day 202

    Homeward Bound

    July 28, 2018 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Homeward Bound…

    We departed our lovely ship on the morning of the 16th of July, sadly saying goodbye to many special people. A wonderful journey to great places, that we will remember always..We loved every day.!
    A beautiful day in Amsterdam. Our Hotel reached in no time, and our room ready and waiting, Bilderberg Garden Hotel, where we began. Soon organised and off out to the very nice surrounds, since we had left Amsterdam,6 weeks before with a sprinkle of mist, they had not had a drop of rain, and very high temps, unheard of for them ,in summer… The lovely baskets on the bridges have withstood the heat well, but trees and parks suffering badly, lots of leaves falling from the huge trees around us ,on the wide streets ,and grass all burnt. Walked through pretty homes and gardens, to a nice area of Cafes and small shops nearby, and then the huge market ,on a quest for some nice things we had seen before…Took a good part of the day, and a good walk for us yet again, back for revival, in air con,[ great heat of almost 30o],then off to a different part. Amsterdam has so much that is so very attractive, except of the centre of the city, and that is the same for all large cities, that have become so overcrowded that they want to restrict who comes, I think that cannot happen. A 3 hour train link to London, I may have mentioned earlier, puts them easily in everyone’s reach..
    Dinner at our Hotel in the Courtyard ,on a warm and perfect evening, and one more walk in the neighbourhood , that we would always come back to, and then organised for the morning departure.
    17th July we were to the Airport in plenty of time…not so good, our flight from Hong Kong delayed due to an Aircraft needing replaced, and so 5 hours late in arrival, fortunately we had a comfortable place to wait, and Airports are always so interesting ,but Schipol is HUGE… and busy..Finally off after 6pm,instead of 1.15 pm. We have never had a delay before ,so we said we have done so well..
    Arrival into Hong Kong much later, meant we only had 4 hours in our Hotel at the Airport which was a good idea and very well placed, but drilling in the ceiling meant a move to a not so nice part, so a bit disgruntled by our departure to NZ at 6.30 pm, on Air NZ. However while waiting, we met a very unassuming Indian man, who talked cricket and things, lived and worked in IT in San Francisco, and then later showed us what he did, for a charity for education in rural India ,an amazing foundation for his birthplace, in the education of these isolated children, he was amazing, and to be greatly admired ,felt it a privilege to meet him .Very special.
    A good flight , once you recover from the sudden appearance of the very elderly cabin crew ,which is not evident in any other Airline, goodness I think they are as old as me.!! Must be hard to get good help.!! Some sleep, fortunately, for me, but not for Sam as we bumped our way through the tropics.. All going well on arrival and our Reindeer skin ,all the way from Norway, was well accepted, much to Cetrece’s delight…very well tanned they declared.!
    Christchurch early afternoon ,and Thelma and Mum to meet us, Mum waving away, from the car. A nice catch up and on to Christian’s , a lovely meal, and by 7.30 we needed to sleep ,and did, we travelled well, and slept mostly at the right times.. Saturday Mum was not well, by Monday had a fall during the night, and an ambulance to hospital, hip in question. Spent many hours until she was admitted, and she spent until later on Wednesday there, confused and seemed so unwell. Sent her home again, and by that evening had fallen badly again ,back in the ambulance, her other hip broken ,and great despair from us all… Wonderful care, a nerve block in immediately, so we waited until yesterday afternoon for her hip replacement, which went very well, and today she continues to do so ,no drip ,eating , and amazing the staff at every turn. ! We realise there is a long way to go ,she will go to Rehabilitation at Burwood, most likely, if she continues to do medically well .She understands this process ,and declared when I said it will be hard, I will walk.! Great that all the Family have been there for Mum ,which is such a huge delight for her. Phew !..A troubling few days for us all..!
    What a difference a week makes, so pleased we could be here to help when needed most. Our wonderful journey a distant memory, most of the time. Christian is away, so we have a warm and comfortable place to be. We will just see what unfolds , have our appointments in Nelson, so that will happen, all going well.
    Thanks for all your snippets and interest along the way ,it makes the journey a very happy one. Hopeful that there can be a one more journey at some stage..
    Love from us, Faye and Sam

    If you look carefully you may see 2 people swimming in the canal in Amsterdam, a NO, but intense heat,and they did.! Thelma showing Mum a beautiful poncho given by her SIL, after visiting and thinking what a great job they do in caring for Mum,so very true, its beautiful and made of Rabbit..[We feel] Pre operation..]    Read more

  • TravelerCruising Northern Europe
    1
    Day 189

    Guernsey UK

    July 15, 2018 in Guernsey ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Guernsey UK

    Our last Port Of Call , sadly, St Peters Port is such a pretty place, just laden with flowers at present boxes ,baskets, troughs, tubs ,the whole place is a picture and they are flourishing. We passed through this morning on our way to Herm Island, a small Island about 20 mins away on a sizeable ferry, all well managed by our lovely guide Viv . Herm is now really a holiday place ,had a large farm but no longer, but just a few cows left. It all dates back to Neolithic times ,with burial chambers found in many places. There are nice beaches, and an old church ST Tuguals, which was begun by Monks ,many century’s ago. On our lengthy walk along dusty tracks, we saw all these things, and heard of the history .Later the Granite was quarried extensively ,and exported to many places ,and features in Buckingham Palace and Edinburgh Castle ,to name a few. There are Puffins in one rugged part ,but only 15 breeding pairs now, so they are carefully protected. When I say holiday Island, it is very rustic, some camping sites,2 Hotels ,with no TV or reception for devices, mostly. Some holiday cottages ,in the old Farm buildings, so nothing fancy, but a haven for day trippers with the beaches. Oyster farming is successful here too.
    A lot of walking , on various paths ,which ended with a walk down from the Farm and Chapel, through a forest glade, with ropes to hang on to on the many steps, ending in a pretty picnic area, with shade and information on the many birds. Being so hot a Pheasant was our only sighting, apart from Finches .
    A lovely cow let me stroke her head ,at the gate, gentle creatures ,one little Guernsey calf, pretty wee thing. It has been discovered, that the Guernsey cows have a special protein in their milk, that has wonderous properties, wonder if our “Jersey” ones have the same,? the industry needs a lift for sure.
    We then had lunch at a school Fair ,where the Fathers were making good hamburgers, the Hotel was so very busy, but we did have a drink, Sam sampling the local ale, [Terrible] but he felt Norm would want him to give it a try… We sat with a nice young couple from Bulgaria ,who were so interested in us, and vice versa, they were working in London in Finance ,so that was a pleasant interlude.
    To come back ,because there is a huge rise and fall of the tide, of 10 meters…! It was quite remarkable to see how far it receded, we had to access the Ferry at a different point, the Rosiere Steps ,an ancient place. A bit precarious for many, great care was involved. One laden Ferry arrived and tried to disembark its passengers ,no.. not able to get right in, so another Ferry ,smaller came and they could ,so took all the people across from one to the other, then they climbed up, so quite a mission, and added a bit of excitement to our day .We were all loaded on to the smaller one ,which took many people .A nice cruise to see the Islands at close range, so much exposed with the tide.
    Back in St Peter’s Port, a huge climb up from the Ferry. We had time to explore the town, last time here I did an Island tour, and Sam a bicycle tour, so we had seen some , but so lovely with the flowers simply everywhere. A nice juice at a Café , and a walk around. The history of this place is amazing, and so pleased we recently saw the movie The Guernsey Potato Peel Pie Society, which detailed their occupation during the war, the children sent away, from little ones, for 5 years they didn’t see their parents , and on the Island they simply starved ,especially the men. They felt abandoned by Britain ,but there were so many factors involved. The American people on our tour today had no knowledge at all of this place, or the history, I hope they will seek the details. So much to learn.
    On such a perfect day ,this was a lovely way to end our shore excursions, we have walked great distances, over this past week, especially ,could not have wished for better weather, our Captain acknowledging it is the best UK weather he has experienced.
    We have had our Philippines Crew Show, and what a delight ,and great talent, we could not think of one of our crew members, that has not been a pleasure to know, and we will miss them greatly.
    We are packed, and organised for our morning departure from Prinsendam ,6 weeks of so many new and wonderful places, and others we have enjoyed just as much, the second time around ,it is a wonderful world ,and how fortunate we are to be able to enjoy it ,in such a lovely way. You will be tired of reading by now, but we will so enjoy all of this, again ,when it is made into a book at the end ,which is a simple process.. It is hard to recall everything ,as you move on to new adventures daily, and my Diary is the best way to retain it all .When we cant go anymore ,we will be able to read about it, and it will be like going all over again.!
    Mum is now 102..how amazing is that, we had a little chat yesterday ,a great day of visits from many friends and Family I’m sure..    Read more

  • TravelerCruising Northern Europe
    1
    Day 188

    Portland UK

    July 14, 2018 in England ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Portland ,U K.

    Unsure of what may be here, we were delighted to find there was such a great deal, and all of it so pretty ,interesting and with more lovely weather to enjoy.
    Portland is in Dorset ,and an Island, very near to Weymouth. I was thinking it may be like Plymouth, anything but. The shuttle bus took us from beside the ship ,15 mins to Weymouth ,along Chesil Beach, 18ks long ,a Tombola, which is a spit to joined to land at both ends, golden gravel ,and is quite unique.[Not as we know it ]. From our drop off point a short walk around the corner, to a very old and pretty town ,all the older things of England, A Kings Arms, a Royal Oak ,and the little joined houses, over looking the narrow harbour, filled with boats of all descriptions. A large bridge across ,lifted to let boats come and go. How lovely we thought, so set out to walk to the Harbour mouth, past many pubs and fish restaurants, boats for fishing trips, and fish market as well. Things like Plaice on the menus, scallops, and much more, a place where there is still real fishing happening. Catches sold direct to the many places to eat , along the harbour. So much to see, all clean and tidy. We crossed over to a wider area and were slightly dumbfounded, a huge beach stretched into the far distance, a typical English seaside city ,golden sand, hotels ,shops accommodation for miles, donkeys for rides, deck chairs lined the promenade ,Punch and Judy as well ,it went on for a great distance. Happy dogs enjoying the sand and sea ,many collies here.. Holiday makers in large numbers ,a huge surprise and delight.!
    The street’s back ,several ,old and quaint, had many shops, cafes ,and simply everything, quite busy but not crowded. We walked for long distances today…. Lots of shops had holiday items of the buckets and spades, little sun shelters, I must say the humble spade has come a long way, there are very good designs. This sand is good for sand sculptures. Back to see the bridge lifted ,and a chat to some locals, with more places to see. Off to Fort Nothe , along the harbour on the other side ,a climb up many steps ,and a great view over everything along the coast. This is the Jurassic Coastline, the white cliffs visible in the distance. Some squirrels , a friendly one ,who lingered for pictures. Met special older locals, who were such a delight…a warm and sunny day in every way…
    Portland has a small Castle, [Henry the V11] ,and a breed of sheep that are unique, which I was not lucky enough to see ,the Castle is a well retained one, but sadly the grounds are not. A lovely harbour, that was used for the sailing in the 2012 Olympics ,man made and one of the deepest of that kind, in the world ,here since Henry’s time… This is a place that could be explored much more ,we loved it all.
    Later closer to sailing time we had the local Choir, I thought WDFF ,but a sprinkling of chaps as well, they were so very good, and sang for quite some time, The Wild Mountain Thyme, Danny Boy, and so much more. Also the local Militia, in uniform ,complete with cannon, to fire a few rounds…in our honour, very loudly… as we sailed away. !The seas are mirror calm still, what amazing weather we have had for our UK part of this cruise    Read more

  • TravelerCruising Northern Europe
    1
    Day 187

    Plymouth,UK

    July 13, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Plymouth. U.K.

    Some days everything just all falls into place, and today was just that. Plymouth is of course, the home of the British Navy, on a Sound, it is a very nice harbour , on another beautiful day, we were undecided what to do ,but I saw a Park, Garden, Stately Home ,mentioned and as we came ashore ,inquired was it near enough to walk to…certainly said the friendly lady, just up and around the corner ,then take the ferry across, just 10 minutes… Not quite.. about 2 ks later we found the ferry, and such friendly local people ,whom we chatted to at length during the wait ,and crossing, accompanied by a large class of infants off for a picnic… a various assortment of others, a very tattooed couple with many, many piercings, and their dog, a Staffy, as it would, a gentle soul, as it was very hot ,the wee dog stretched out feet behind her trying to get comfortable, on a small, full ferry, in just a short time, the Owner, whipped out a spray bottle of water and gently sprayed the dogs tummy to make her comfortable, how precious.!
    Mount Edgecumbe Country Park was our destination. This is actually in Cornwall in a few minutes ,we were in a different County, as Pymouth is on an Island. Built in 1620, Tudor style, the former home of the Earls of Mt Edgecumbe .A place in history where the beacon’s were lit ,to raise the alarm that the Spanish Amada coming ,as Darwin was exploring the gardens, while waiting to explore the New World on the Beagle. Napoleon was there in 1815.
    Set high up in the Park ,the house commands a great view over the landscape and the sea . A deer Park is part of the estate ,and the gardens slope up to or down from, the house, beginning with the Orangery ,and its perfect gardens, on up to many other treasures, hidden away, suffering a little from the drought ,but such a find..We walked on up a good distance ,to the house ,contemplated going in but time didn’t allow ,we enjoyed the views, and more of the garden from the top and walked back down through the forest part ,to the Coastal path ,cool and such beautiful trees, little structures in the grounds, then a built up area on the seafront, with the cannons over looking the Harbour. It was peaceful and such a nice place to discover. We had a
    drink and shared a Cornish pastie, not the best one ever ,but one needs to try.
    Decided to take the local bus back to Plymouth ,well that was an adventure in itself…although just across the water, we came a long way around, into tiny Cornish villages ,narrow roads for our new Double Decker Bus ,many highways and byways, along the Cliffs, with the beaches far below, on these tiny roads, much jostling for position to pass. The fields of potatoes, corn ,wheat and onions. Some lovely cows, but not an abundance of food just now. The trees whacking the bus, numerous times ,our driver was an expert..It took 1 ½ hours ,and the final part was on to a roll on ferry, which operated on a chain system and across the Tamar we came ,through the city at length, to reach the centre having had a great look at the Countryside and surrounds for 4 Pounds each. !
    We then ventured into the city, and that was short lived, quite open expanses of pedestrian parts ,an artificial lawn and striped deck chairs ,set out around a huge screen showing the Tennis.. A nice touch, but there it ended, a scruffy place, with a very shady lot about the place, more Tattoos than you have ever seen, it seemed, Sam felt that the larger the body, the more were in evidence ,a hot day so little garments… Not any pretty sights.
    We do lead slightly sheltered lives..
    There are historic parts ,like the Mayflower Steps, but so very hot we didn’t fancy a search, it’s a far bigger place than we imagined , our shuttle bus was handy ,it was mid afternoon,so we came back, along with many others,. We loved what we did, met nice people and walked for many K’s.!
    A short rest and this evening we have dined in style, at our Pinnacle Grill ,we had the best table, it is very up market, and traditional .Our seating was a plush couch and velvet cushions ,the staff wonderful, and our food the best we can recall. Mushroom Cappuccino , with truffle to begin, divine, then huge shrimps in a salad ,main was Lamb Chops for me, melt in mouth ,and Halibut for Sam, asparagus, baby carrots and mushrooms ,and baked potatoes, many trimmings ,fresh berries to follow with a delicate sauce. Tiny chocolates to end, very memorable indeed..    Read more

  • TravelerCruising Northern Europe
    11
    Day 187

    Milfordhaven,Wales

    July 13, 2018 in Wales ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Milford Haven, Wales.

    An obscure place it seemed today, a very strategic Port, for oil, has a refinery,and has had more in the past, a new and extremely large LPG Port with gleaming new facilities ,that services a great part of the UK. A very deep natural harbour, second deepest in the World, next to Sydney.. However it seemed for a cruise ship, at anchor, with a pilot on board at all times, and a tug connected, so we stayed in the channel all day ,not the easiest place for a ship to tender ashore. Some trips to be had, we didn’t,it was however, a perfect day, warm and still.
    We journeyed off to walk where we could, and that was easy, not huge, and not a great deal here, but a tidy town, lots of flowers around ,nice neat homes, and friendly locals. Sam viewed the Bowling Club and had a chat..I was like a stalker, trying to listen for Welsh being spoken, and it was, but not a lot ,elderly lady, and then the nice lilt of their language from another man who spoke too us. They were a fishing Port, for many years, but over time and changes, not now. Lots of pleasure craft in the harbour, their energy Port of great importance, and tourism ,they are hopeful will evolve. A ferry runs to Dublin. A place of history, Lord Nelson’s times . A town that is divided by a bridge, modern now, but going back many years ,was a political division, and some residents lived their whole lives, never crossing to the “Other Side”, except the cemetery was on the other side.!!! A good wander on a lovely day.
    Later we sailed out, with great views of the surrounding landscape, old fortress’s ,the new Gas Operations, lovely fields in the sunshine ,large reddish cliffs ,quite high and rugged, they apparently have Puffins. We are in a hurry, fastest ever, to be in time for Plymouth, where ,due to a change of plan from Naval Vessels, we are being up graded from “At Anchor” again, to having a harbour berth, if we are there by 6.15am, in the morning…It is warm and lovely and there are schools of darting fish, maybe Tuna or small Porpoises…    Read more

  • TravelerCruising Northern Europe
    1
    Day 185

    Hollyhead,Wales

    July 11, 2018 in Wales ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Hollyhead, Wales.

    Discovering Wales ,an in depth journey today with a rail tour included. Varied scenery as we passed over the Island of Anglesey.
    Hollyhead is the ferry Port for a lot of the Irish ferries ,closest place with direct links to London.
    The countryside very dry, as we are used to seeing in these parts. Our guide Dee was very good, our driver excellent.
    We learnt there is one of the largest cheese factories in Europe, in these realms. BUT, the cheese, Mozzarella which is exported to Italy ,and comes back on Pizzas, is made from the milk from huge “Cow Farm’s “,animals kept indoors ,in large numbers ,automatically fed.. Mortified.. So the nice fields are mainly taken up with sheep only ,just a few farmers trying to keep normal Dairy Farming going, but they cannot compete apparently with the huge conglomerates.. There are 12 million sheep and 3 million people.
    Next we crossed the Menai Straits, high bridges over turbulent waters between the Is of Anglesey and the mainland, where the tides rush through a narrow opening below. Impressive sight, with lovely homes along the waters edges.
    Then on the mainland ,the vegetation changes, with the large deciduous trees, and the typical UK landscape ,mountains visible ahead, narrow valley’s ,rolling hills ,bracken and ferns, fields of sheep, stone walls of huge proportions coming down from great heights. Pretty steams and rivers, though depleted by the lack of rain ,rocky and lovely. The old coach roads and Inns, and later the Slate mountains, where the mining, that is no more, took place at its height in the 1800’s,but continuing on through many decades, now only a very few remain in limited production It was dangerous of course as it an unstable rock ,and so much that is extracted is not usable, so huge deposits remain, making there own small mountains, but the beautiful landscape and light, softens the look ,and it is not unsightly really. Small villages and larger ones ,dotted along the valley’s are now tourist attractions, that seem to be very busy. The houses are small ,of Welsh stone, with the slate roof. The villages so pretty with hanging baskets, of many things, begonias here, geraniums ,lobelia..The roads so narrow with the stone walls on each side, not mean feat for the driver, old stone farm houses ,still evident in many places, such a picture.
    The coastal village of Porthmadog was our destination, very pretty harbour, and bridge ,where we joined the train ,Ffestiniog Railway on the edge of Snowdonia National Park. This very small engine ,pulled 10 cars to great heights, it seemed with ease, steep grades, with views to the valleys far below, a Castle in the distance ,lakes, little stations along the way, and Hydro schemes, great feats of engineering, one inside the mountain ,fed from a Lake above ,needing more research. One lovely sight was nice grey, roan, cows escaping the heat ,standing up to their bellies in the river . [In NZ they would have incurred a great fine ,and much publicity, but what a peaceful scene it was…]
    The bus retrieved us and on to lunch, which was at Betws-y-caed, low and behold ,it was where I had lunch 4 years ago, on my journey into Wales, coming a totally different way, from Liverpool. A good 3 course lunch with nice company. This was an old Resort Village, where the gentry came on the train, so all the Hotels are built facing away from the sun, [which is North is this hemisphere, ] as the ladies considered it common to have sun on their pale skins, only workers had that.!!
    Onward through Snowdonia National Park up over a high pass, often closed by snow in winter, down into the glacial valley with impressive rocks and good views of Mt Snowden, which has a tiny train that runs to the top, pleased it wasn’t our train..! The scenery was so varied and interesting. Large castle like towers, Welsh built ,to look out for the English. Houses tucked away in very shaded areas, and that would be not great, as Wales has a lot of rain, but just like” A Place In The Country”.
    As an extra we were driven through Canarvan , right around the Castle, grim but impressive, on the tidal estuary, but in fairness with the tide out was not at its best, and an untimely, yelled, outburst, from the fellow passengers, that it was TOO Hot, and Turn down your microphone, with out a please or thank you ,sort of spoiled the moment.!
    However 8 hours of simply beautiful, varied scenery ,and so much we learnt , we were not deterred, and both loved our day in Wales .[Moving transport a lot of the day ,so photography difficult.]
    We slept for 9 solid hours.! 2 very full days in a row..!    Read more

  • TravelerCruising Northern Europe
    2
    111
    Day 183

    Liverpool,UK

    July 9, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Liverpool.

    What’s to like about Liverpool, well I wondered a time ago ,and chose to go to Wales ,so I was very pleased to be back here, to enjoy everything that is Liverpool. It is quite a beautiful place ,the buildings ,the history ,and on a beautiful day,26o, passengers and crew have so enjoyed being here.
    We went off early, a lot of ground to cover, the Albert Docks are near, walking distance from where we are berthed, on the river Mersey ,and yes the Ferry is still coming across. Just up the steps and right in the city. A local group of chaps entertaining with many Local songs ,Irish related, for some time. Such a friendly bunch are the Liverpool locals. The docks are so old, all brick, and stretch for a good distance, there are now a lot of cafes and things and it’s a hub for visitors . The old relics remain, many old ships of various kinds .A new and stunning museum. The Beatles are there ,pride of place, nearby, a lovely group statue of the them as young men ,they are the pride of Liverpool. So nice to see, and part of our lives ,away back then. New and clever, a temporary sculpture ,of a Tortoiseshell cat and 3 white rats ,there for the Tall Ships gathering. Lots of old dockland things, many buskers ,some much better than others… A huge area ,of such great interest ,enjoyed on a beautiful morning.
    Onward to the city, and its many nice buildings ,especially the landmark river side ,Liver Birds building, its lovely, from every angle. More gracious ones next, and many monuments to various fallen heroes. Spacious wide streets, and further in, a huge rotunda, built for Queen Victoria ,unveiled by her daughter ,it is quite beautiful. Not everything open on Sunday, so relatively peaceful. Wide pedestrian areas ,stretching for many blocks, some pretty corners ,one with an array of umbrellas as a feature ,which was so effective. They are in drought, a heatwave, as they put it for 11 days now ,and it is beginning to show, the plants looking tired ,and the grass is burnt off. We carried onwards to the little street of the Musical history, the Cavern, Lulu’s statue ,the wall of fame ,of all the hits and hit makers. Just all nice to see. Passed through a shopping mall ,for a few supplies ,smaller but many, many shoe shops, with very troubling fashions ,my goodness me, who wears these I wonder…I pictured the evidence…maybe for us come summer.!!??? Beware..!
    Liverpool is a mix of the new and very old, and some stunning new architecture amongst the new, also some bizarre…as is the way of cities everywhere..
    After 4 hours walking in the heat ,we had to call it a day, to come back to our lovely riverside position ,and have a read in the sun. Thinking so warmly of this place of tough times, many novels we know, and now thriving as a Port again, the river its lifeblood.
    We have sailed away down the Mersey , on a calm and clear evening ,after dinner we sat and watched the huge banks of Wind Farms ,in the sea, some being maintained ,hundreds and hundreds ,turning gently in their orderly rows . Restful viewing ,as we sail into the sunset.
    Dublin tomorrow with some good things planned. Bye from us ,making the most of our last days on board, and this great weather.    Read more

  • TravelerCruising Northern Europe
    Day 182

    Oban, Scotland

    July 8, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    This morning at anchor in the outer harbour of Oban. Coming in along a narrow channel past The Isle of Mull , lovely to see it again. Mull was the home of our ancestors ,Mums Family , McFadyen’s, who came to New Zealand a long time go..The Caledonian Ferry ,Isle of Mull sailing past, with the name still in Gaelic on the side. On Skye all signs are in Gaelic and English.
    We came to Oban 20 years ago ,with Lorraine, Norm, Cetrece and Richard ,so today we re traced some of our steps ,with fond memories, we may not have Norm, but he is forever with us.
    Not much has changed. It is a very old town ,of the solid old buildings ,an old fashioned air about it .A perfect harbour ,with many ferry services to the outer Islands.
    Amusing Haircut for Sam, which seemed to be the Dog Groomers as well.!! A severe doing, that will take some time to grow…and he assured me there were more customers of the human kind ,waiting after him.??
    The turn around place for the Caledonian Canal cruise, that begins in Inverness, so able to see The Lord Of The Glens ,have a hankering for that. Time to wander back to the old buildings tucked away ,with roses on the walls.
    Later we walked a long way ,along the waterfront ,where we had not been, past fine establishments, for accommodation, small Hotels and guest houses nicely kept.
    Met some Guillemots, cute little birds from these regions ,with bright red feet ,more often from the outer Islands, but there are a few breeding pairs here ,the small ones bickering and pecking each other, as kids do…onward to some seating near the Castle, which is just a ruin now, on a small headland, so we watched the world go by, on a warm ,calm day. Met some interesting US people ,who are on a Train Journey of the UK, along a whiskey trail…Oban of course has a famous brand. Small galleries that had beautiful things ,and learned that the Great Diver, is actually the lovely Loon, not abundant in Scotland ,but some are here, how special, and they are really quite a big bird.
    After many streets and trails ,we came back on board ,calm on our long tender ride . Later in the evening we sailed away on mirror seas, the full length of Mull, which took many hours, and such varying landscape, huge cavernous cliffs, small inlets, even a beach , green pastures, a grand Castle like home ,tucked away, with a para glider flying over the cliff tops, for simply ages… until the sun set. We had Islay and Jura on the other side, [ a little distant],as well, Jura was the home of my Grt Grandfather , Dr Patrick Fletcher ,who has a nice memorial in Middlemarch, where he lived. Other McFadyen’s lived on Islay. So a lovely day til the very end ,in the realms of the ancestors.
    This morning we woke to news we were deviating from course, to sail up the sound and around the Isle of Arran, delighted, so for 5 hours we have been in clear view of the Isle, varying in scenery along the way, high mountains on the west side, in parts, a volcano with collapsed caldera ,ancient, above. Villages , and the patchwork of crofts. The hills red with the heather, in parts. Parts of Arran, looked the most like New Zealand, that we have seen, I thought ,and never usually do, our cabin steward said he thought it was too.
    Such a bonus ,and can you believe ,most showed no interest at all, very few were even taking notice, so as one Officer said to me, What more can we do.! They had coffee, and refreshments in the Crows Nest, for a couple of hours ,took it away ,almost untouched…You do wonder why people come in some cases.
    We have since had yet another Mariners Awards Brunch ,which was very pleasant ,and shared our table 4 ,slightly refined ,Australians, all very convivial.!
    Early afternoon another wonderous sight ,Ailsa Crag, this unique, small Island, in the middle of the open sea .A volcanic plug, from a long extinct volcano, millions of years old. It has special granite called Blue Hone ,used for curling stones, and was used as flooring in the castle in Edinburgh. A ruined castle and tower to be seen, a lighthouse , still maintained .Very steep and a bird sanctuary ,for mainly gannets ,large beautiful ones diving from great heights ,and puffins, although we saw many other birds on the surrounding water. The Gannet Colony is simply huge , there must be millions, I thought there has to be great fishing in the area, so many mouths to feed.! Unusual pillars of stone. Most seen through the binoculars, but all so amazing. This is Prinsendam, always little unexpected surprises,
    Later today we will sail past The Isle of Wight, and on to Liverpool tomorrow.    Read more

  • TravelerCruising Northern Europe
    1
    Day 179

    Isle of Skye ,Scotland

    July 5, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Isle of Sky ,Scotland.

    A sparkling gem in the Hebrides ,Skye..Our first views of huge green cliffs, on a sunny morning ,as we made our way down the coast, to our anchorage near to the stone walls, high above, some sheep and cattle ,could hear the lambs. Around the corner ,just a glimpse of the pretty pastel cottages of Portree ,in the distance. A tender Port today, we went early, so a peaceful quiet ride in, and time to walk at length in the town, before anyone came and we had our private tour at 10.30. So pretty, a picture book scene ,with the rows of houses above the harbour, nice gardens and many hanging baskets in full bloom.. Many cottages, small Hotels and B & B’s all clustered in. Honey suckle perfume in the air, lots of roses too .Everything open early, a baker with extensive wares in the town square. Many collie dogs going for walks ,and I stopped to listen to a broad scots accent, from a little boy, as he explained directions to some new comers, makes me smile…! Its great to be there “first”…! A Craft market in the Village Hall ,first there, and like our Bring and Buys of old, some really nice things to see.
    Our tour today was organised on line, with a recommendation from one of Christians friends of old, who lives here now, so I didn’t know if it was man or woman, but along came Donda…a middle aged man ,born and bred on Skye, quiet and gentle, and the best we could have had.. Off in the Mazda ,a little jaded ,and we soon knew why, the roads are in very bad order, in many places, just neglected ,said Donda. Off to Dunvegan regions, he lived there, in a white house on the Croft, with some Black faced Scottish sheep…he liked a lot. Wife works at the Castle.. Very rolling ,uneven , country ,with boggy areas, green ,lots of sheep ,and lambs who seem to know the road rules, they mostly all seem roam free. Places where peat is still cut ,but not used so much now, if at all. Donda uses coal that comes from …Columbia…how about that, its not too expensive he said.!!
    Stopped at The Fairy Bridge, from a legend of the McLeod’s, told with fun, by Donda…[Sam hard of hearing ..of course… called him Donka..]!!!! I intervened quickly…! Higher ground to Dunvegan ,an old but important part of the Island, the Castle is here, the seat of the McLeod’s ,for 800 years , an inhabited Castle all that time, has beautiful grounds, but we didn’t go, leave that as a surprise for June ,Dave and Pearl, who will be here soon, for the Parliament ,a huge occasion, in a week or two. Its very beautiful we were told…and the McLeod’s good people.
    Our next stop was such a joy, to see Patrice and Russell, Christian’s friends, in their lovely B&B at Hillvue. I had met Patrice a long ,long time ago, just once, so a surprise call, and that it was, just so special, busy cleaning for new arrivals, they are booked through until September ! Beautiful home, with Art that is amazing, gorgeous views over the Loch below, dear little Inca, their Westie, who warmed our hearts even more ,[when they came to NZ recently, she went to Paris, to stay with her Grandma]. We were delighted Donda took us there, he is a friend too. Much chatting and then photos, a huge eagle hovered overhead, they said a special omen…![ Not sure ..some eagles on Skye are a problem ,steal the lambs ,but there is a good one, the Golden Eagle, and other large birds as well, also the Sea Eagle…] The problem eagle is one re introduced to Skye some years ago…Protected and not liked at all ,causing havoc..
    Onward to a place of breath taking scenery, called Neist Point Lighthouse, great heights ,and a lengthy walk down and out to it ,but we took the high path to see it all ,for the best vantage point above, and looked across to Harris and Lewis Islands, in the outer Hebrides.. Told all the stories by Donada ,with his quiet humour ,a lengthy drive, and a one way road, only passing bays, very rough ,so lots of stops, but lovely scenery.. Back by a different route, with stops above the Lochs ,seeing Donald McLeod’s Tables, high above, another special story, and a lovely old farm, with the stone sheep yards, below on the Loch.
    On Skye they fought to keep their Crofts, and won, so they remained until the 60’s ,when gradually some were sold off, to the English mainly ,but like happens on Islands, the dream they see, in reality , is that isolation is not ideal ,the weather not good, and economy is tough. They remain unused for a lot of the year. Skye has a bridge to the Mainland ,so many come, and busy at this time of year. Tourism is their many revenue, and Fishing is very little now days, but Salmon Farming is a big thing.
    In the inner Island ,the mountains are stunning and varied ,the Skies’ all day were simply beautiful ,hence the name..possibly…? Needs research. They have few trees, except planted ones, in small forestry, but the glens , mountains ,lochs and the light ,are amazing. The houses are the two story, slate roof kinds, all painted so nicely, white . I have sooo many pictures, we felt so very happy with our day on Skye ,so much to remember, a very crowded village at Portree ,by return time, a wee boy valiantly playing the bagpipes, had a crowd gathered, very entrepreneurial we felt. We were so pleased we had the quiet time earlier.
    We sailed away in the evening, following the Coast of Skye, for many hours we stayed up late, in the Crow’s Nest , [with Scottish music ], until we saw the Lighthouse we had visited . It’s a spectacular landscape , especially from the sea, reminding us a lot of the Faroe’s Islands ,far above.
    Loved our tour ,with excellent local knowledge , kindly man ,and a place that will remain in our hearts always. As I say to Mum, Scotland is surely in our DNA.    Read more

  • TravelerCruising Northern Europe
    1
    Day 179

    Kirkwall, Orkney Islands

    July 5, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Kirkwall, Orkney ,Scotland.
    Orkney is gently rolling country and almost treeless ,and made up of many Islands ,most inhabited to a degree, 22,000 ,the main Island is the Port, changed a lot in the years since we came, new and larger Cruise terminal, and they will have 170 visits from ships in the year ahead… Main industry is Farming, which is what Orkney is about really, Cattle since Neolithic times ,really..they have a climate that is not as cold as you may imagine, in winter not below 5o,and summer around 16 o..like everywhere though, that is been changing and this year had temps in the high 20’s. The fields are brilliant green, a patchwork, they grow Oats, Barley and rye, a special kind of ancient crop ,called Bere ,a barley ,brought here by the Vikings, and making a comeback, used for special cakes.. The cattle are Angus ,and a Simental type ,huge animals. They have many cows and calves, called the suckling herds, who are left with their Mothers all summer, and do particularly well…no surprises there.. A landscape without trees ,is so different, a green, unadorned landscape, but many Lochs, and waterways , huge beaches, buildings that have lasted thousands of years ,austere as they are..the Farm houses, are simply grey ,huge, and some are quite low to keep from the wind and lack of wood ,to make roof beams another problem. Newer ones two stories. No paint to be seen ,newer ones are a fine pebble coat.
    This is also a huge centre of renewable energy ,they have studied it since 2003,and it is a place of learning for many, on this subject, last time here, they were going to trial the tidal flow energy, that is very successful, and with wind, and solar ,they have too much now ,to pass back through a cable to the mainland. They are going to make that into a Hydrogen system, and in future Cruise ships will be managed in some way with this… Beyond me…
    We saw it at its best on a lovely sunny day, almost warm..
    Our trip today was to the Ring Of Brodgar ,Skara Brae ,and Skaill House,.
    A lovely walk around the Standing Stones of Brodgar, each one said to represent a person, in that you brought you own stone ,how, unknown, they are huge, ringed by hand dug moat, full of Heather, and a pretty plant that is a type of cotton. They know little of what these represent, but they are from the Neolithic age. [Older then Stonehenge ] The ancient settlements here are amongst the very oldest in Europe, some wonderful finds, a new one just opened ,which promises to over take all previous finds. We saw the beginnings of the digging, the straight stone walls being unearthed.
    On to Skara Brae, which you will have heard of ,the best preserved Neolithic village in Northern Europe, uncovered in the 1850’s after a huge storm ,and remarkably intact ,its origins are in the times of 3200 and 2500 BC. We walked all through it ,able to look down ,into all the rooms ,workshop ,connecting passages. It is right on the beach, some has been claimed by the sea, but this is intact, it has so much that you can see, their beds, their fire pit, the huge stone dresser, remains of pots, clay, and stone, remembering they didn’t have iron at all, but an amazingly sophisticated society ,in many ways. They had cattle, were farmers, way back then, birds eggs, crabs, cockles, and mussels. A waterproof tank set into the floor. Well made implements of bone ,and such things, jewellery , beads of clay They think 40 to 100 people may have lived there, and then simply left the site, they think on account of the climate changing for the worst.,it was in a very exposed Atlantic facing place.. Fascinating, and so, so long ago, much to research, I think related to the Picts. The Vikings were here too, and had long houses and more things yet to be uncovered, this is a place of different civilizations , dating almost unbelievably ,far back in time.
    Skaill House was a very austere place, on a windy site , near the coast ,adjoining the Skara Brae site .The Queen Mother came to stay ,humm, cant imagine why, but it had a pretty dining room, and not much else ,very cramped and crowded today., the garden was struggling ,and it was quite bleak, after yesterday we skipped off for coffee ,and a scone in the Visitors centre Our guide was English, lived here for 30 years, and passionate about the History, with a touch of humour, Annabel was very good. On such a good day, with a bit of a breeze, washing drying, on many lines ,she spoke of that, I said quietly ,they don’t know about such things… On a recent tour ,an American Lady demanded loudly, of our guide” Why did people have things hanging outside ,did they not own dryers.”??? He said ,bemused of course they do ,for winter ,she had never heard of such a thing ,as a clothes line, Florida was her home… So in a group of maybe over 40 today..it was hands up who hangs clothes outdoors, maybe there were 3 of us..! Fancy that..…
    Our journey back was via Scarpa Flow, stories of the war and some preventable disasters, that took many lives, and the scuttling of a whole fleet of German Ships…Of great interest to many ,they like a war or two… They now dive on the wrecks, though many were removed.
    We later went into Kirkwall, close by, and walked in the nice little town centre, very old ,but many galleries and nice things to see, St Mangus a huge solid church, quite lovely inside. It was so warm and sunny.
    Everything is very solid in the Orkney’s.! A very short growing season ,but who knows that maybe changing. Gardens are not such a great feature.
    Independence day today, so a few celebration planned…burgers mentioned and other US treats..] They are excited, wearing ties of the flag and silly hats.!
    Tomorrow we are at The Isle of Skye, very excited about that, and have a private tour ,which will be better than today, 2 buses of over 40 people, quite a crowd. We notice such a difference to when we last came to these parts…and it’s not for the best…
    After dinner and our Show, which was so very good ,a nice Flutist ,who has played on tour ,for several years, with Andre Bocelli, Stephen Clark, I went out to see John O Groats, and the bottom of Orkney, the Is of Hoy, which has a huge cliff, so not all Orkney is almost flat.. opposite each other as we sail down to the Hebrides.
    More tomorrow…Phew.. I am tired, you will have taken a break.!    Read more

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