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  • ReizigerCamino Sanabrés
    Dag 15

    Day 51 - Ourense - 23.4 km

    10 november 2022, Spanje ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    Weather: 10 - 18 degrees. Some cloud.
    Clothes: short sleeve merino, light wind fleece and rain jacket to start until it warms up. I have been walking in shorts since the rain the other day.

    The morning
    Since my two caffeine free mornings l am a little more anxious about my morning coffee. Last night I asked the rather depressed looking Bar host if they were open in the morning. He said 7.15 am - which sounded like a strange time and I wondered if I understood him correctly. Anyway this morning I made my way to the Bar in hope and fear. 😂. Yes it was open!
    It looks like the host is not well, and just sitting on a stool is a great difficulty for him. I forgave him any grumpiness and sent as much love and as many blessings as I could. May he regain good health and the subsequent happiness that brings.
    While one coffee was good I believe today is a two coffee day and I knew there were plenty of stops between here and Ourense. The body is telling me it needs a rest day so I have booked two nights in Ourense before walking the 22 km to Cea.
    I had my second coffee in the first village I passed. ☕️
    It was so peaceful sitting outside looking at the trees and hills and sky. I could have sat there for a long time.

    The day
    Another day in lovely Galicia - a few paths and tracks and then mainly along a minor road but still beautiful.
    The sky is blue with clouds. The weather pleasantly cool. The road not too busy. Lots of variety - shady lanes - villages - then the hills to one side.
    The day has turned into a bit of a Bar crawl - first stop was for coffee - second stop (still in the morning) Tinto de Verano with a tapas of the best tortilla I have had. The egg still soft but cooked around the yummy potatoes. When I said to the host that it was too early for wine he said a definite No! And remembering all the guys who have a shot of spirit with their morning coffee I thought - When in Spain ….
    And the drink - lots of ice, a little wine and tonic water with a couple of spritzed lemon peels. Perfect. The best.
    I think all discipline has left the building. I can see a completely indulgent day ahead and a day off tomorrow, so no pressure. Double perfect.
    As I was sitting with my vino I saw another pilgrim, head down seemingly scurrying by. I was so happy I have the time and inclination to sit and dream at least for some of the time.
    Third stop in another village for a decaf.
    The walk into Ourense is a long one through the outskirts - at first just countryside with houses, more like an extended village- then an industrial area - then what would have been a small separate village in the past (very cute) but has now been enveloped by Ourense - and then through what is a regular city scape until we get to the old town.
    I stopped at 2 pm for lunch in an ordinary Bar / Restaurant. I needed the break before I did what I thought was the last hour to my hostel. The meal was delicious. The food and beverages today have been the best so far.
    I wasn’t that far away after all and soon came to Hostel Grelo which is great. The owner - named Santiago - speaks English. He did my laundry for the usual price(€5 wash and dry), told me how to get to the hot springs tomorrow, and told me about the Chestnut Fiesta tomorrow with lots happening in the old town and a concert in the evening. I had seen posters for this event along the way - a great day to be in Ourense.
    After settling into the Hostel I went for a walk in the old town. It seems to be quite different in character and energy to anything before.
    It’s great to know I don’t have to get ready to walk tomorrow - just take the day as it comes.

    Buen Camino

    The light in Spain
    The autumn light in the north of Spain is very gentle and lovely. The mornings and evenings seem to always have a pink hue and the days are golden - when it’s not foggy or rainy. All quite extraordinary and a daily delight.    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerCamino Sanabrés
    11
    Dag 14

    Day 50 - Xunqueira - 15 km

    9 november 2022, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Weather: 8 - 14 degrees and predicted rain ☔️

    But it didn’t rain 🙏🙏🌈

    Today the walk is around the edge of what is called an ‘agricultural plain’. It’s green and flat with open green fields and copses of mainly Birch trees. From the look of the Birch groves I think the trees are grown and harvested for fuel. I thought I would be walking across this plain but the route is more around the edge in the foothills. So plenty of beautiful pathways and plenty of short ascents and descents.
    At a village early in the morning there was a sign to an archeological site of a castle. I walked up the short steep road and found a picnic site overlooking the whole valley. Definitely the best place for a castle but any remains are probably still beneath the soil.
    There is definitely evidence of a milder wetter climate - more small villages to pass through, and many more vegetable and flower gardens in and around the villages.
    In one village there were a lot of renovated corn storage ‘houses’. These little houses are on legs to keep the rats away from the grain.
    And I saw my first communal laundry - lavadera - beautifully restored. When I walked in Portugal we actually saw a couple of local women using their communal laundry. The women said they felt famous around the world because all the pilgrims took photos of them.
    The rest of the walk was along old roads and tracks through that beautiful Galician mixed forest. I completely took my time and stopped many times to just be with the landscape.
    I arrived at my destination at 1.30 pm. The Albergue is the first building as you enter the village (and well sign posted). As usual the door is open. I am so grateful to the Galician government for providing these amazing Refugios.
    Soon after I arrived two women arrived - one was Luna, the Korean woman from a couple of weeks ago, with a new friend, a German woman who lived in Spain for 15 years and is married to a Spanish man. It’s so funny when people who I think are ahead of me suddenly turn up again.
    When I went to look for lunch it looked like this small village has an early siesta - but I eventually found somewhere open for a vino and empanada. That kept me going for a while.
    Later I went to the shop with the ‘girls’ and on the way back saw the church was open. There were two women reciting prayers. It was good to sit and listen. At first I felt restless and like I didn’t belong but after a while something settled and became quiet. When they were done they went out another door and I followed into the church courtyard. I found them in a room where they put a stamp in my Credential. I walked back to the albergue feeling a bit different - somehow strengthened and more myself at the same time. A lovely ending to the day.

    Buen Camino

    PS: It was really hard choosing photos for today. Too many interesting and beautiful sites.

    Reflection on connection
    I love to stop often and for longer periods to actually connect with the bit of country I am standing on - to say hello to the landscape, the trees and bushes and grass; to allow the landscape to enter my being.
    On the days I hurry on (distance, weather, my frame of mind) I don’t feel as good - like I’ve missed something important, ignored an important relationship.
    The three French people from yesterday said that they walk longer distances because they get bored hanging around small villages. That made sense yesterday - but today I realised I could take a very long time not going very far and have an incredibly interesting time. 😂
    We are all different.    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerCamino Sanabrés
    Dag 13

    Day 49 - Vilar de Barrio - 19.2 km

    8 november 2022, Spanje ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Weather: 11 - 14 degrees. Rain predicted
    Clothes: the usual - but it’s not as cold so will see how I end up.

    Rain, rain and rain
    The early morning started out with no rain - which made it easy to get to the Bar for coffee and toast.
    Then just out of town a drizzle (put on the rain poncho) and then for the first time real rain drops - then REAL rain - till midday.
    But what a blessing that there was no wind and it’s quite warm. My glasses got wet and foggy so at one point I think I just walked through all the puddles instead of around them. My feet, shoes and socks were soaked - sloshing around in my boots. Eventually I took my glasses off so I could see where I was stepping.
    And to top it all off most of the morning was a very steep uphill. Phew!!! But the scenery was beautiful - yet again. 😄
    I finally got to the village of Albergueria where there’s an amazing Bar and Albergue in an old renovated building. The Bar is decorated with Camino shells with the names of the pilgrims that have passed through.
    Hot chocolate and my first proper empanada, and I realised I could continue on to Vilar de Barrio. There were a couple of younger men stopping there to dry out as well.
    I had given myself permission to stop here if needed but apart from being wet around the legs and feet, and a bit damp in the body (my poncho wasn’t as waterproof as I would have hoped in the heavy rain) and a bit crampy in one shoulder, I felt fine and with enough energy to do the final 7 km - down hill!
    Another bonus was that rain had stopped and it looked like it was finished for the day. If it has still been raining I definitely would have stopped.
    The last part of the walk was as beautiful as the first and it seemed no time at all before I reached my destination.
    I had lunch (salmon with lovely baked veges which was a bit unusual) before finding the albergue and shared the washing machine with three French people who arrived just as I was putting some washing on.
    Later one French man was doing some yoga in the afternoon which spurred me on to join him. I can’t remember when I last did some stretches.
    The municipal Albergues in Galicia are pretty luxurious: brand new, solid bunks, warm, washing machines and dryers, kitchen. The only thing they don’t have is blankets so a sleeping bag is needed.
    I finished the day having a drink with the French trio while they ate their dinner. They went to a little cafe run by an ‘old lady’. It was like being in her home kitchen - and the food was plain but excellent.
    Tomorrow is a short day so absolutely no hurrying for any part of the day.

    Buen Camino.

    P.S. Last night the Taiwanese pilgrim at the albergue roasted some chestnuts she had collected along the way. They were delicious and the four of us - her friend Juan and my friend Juan and me - had a lovely night. The other two spoke English and my Juan got to have a long Spanish conversation with the other Juan rather than struggling with me in English.    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerCamino Sanabrés
    Dag 12

    Day 48 - Laza - 14.1 km

    7 november 2022, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Weather: 7 - 11 degrees, cloudy
    Clothes: The same but no rain jacket.

    Desayunos - Breakfast
    The temperature this morning was a surprising 7 degrees - Juan and I both said it was ‘hot’. 🥵 😂
    I think the Bar opened at 7.30 am just for us. Last night the hostess seemed to say that she expected us there at 7.30 am for breakfast. I was only 10 minutes late (Juan arrived 5 minutes after me) and a different lady was standing out the front seemingly looking for us - looking a bit tired and grumpy. And I didn’t blame her.
    Anyway, the coffee and toast was such a treat - particularly as there was no coffee at all yesterday and only coffee at lunch time the day before. I heartily thanked our hostess and she seemed to cheer up as she wished us a Buen Camino.
    I have read that coffee can be a pain killer and also that people who drink coffee are less depressed.
    All I can say is that my mood this morning was vastly improved over yesterday (all day) and the morning of the day before. Although I did sleep for about 12 hours yesterday afternoon and evening- my no coffee day.

    The walk - a very happy day
    The weather today has been perfect for walking. Cloudy and warm but still cool enough to stay refreshed while walking.
    The route today is about 2.5 km more uphill to the small village of Portocambo and then down the other side of the mountain to Laza. We also passed through a number of very small villages which have some completely tumbled down houses as well as some that have been lovingly renovated. In one tiny village there is a self serve stop for pilgrims (chair, table, snacks, coffee- though it was cold) and also a very upmarket Casa de Rural for those wanting a more comfortable mountain holiday.
    The trail was a mixture of bitumen and dirt side roads through mixed forest with lots of views over the near and far mountains. It was a beautiful day.
    The closer mountains are mainly pine plantations with small sections of mixed forest.
    The sounds today are - boots on gravel, boots on pine needles, boots on grass: walking poles clicking on the road: babbling rivers: a few bird songs: lots of silence.
    Right now I am about 3 km from Laza sitting on an outcropping of rock listening to the river and looking at the view over the valley to the mountains beyond (in between writing). It’s coming to midday and there is no need for me to hurry anywhere. I love these shorter days where I don’t feel I have to hurry to a destination and can stop as many times as I like for as long as I like.
    Laza is a lovely little town. There was a souvenir shop near where we picked up the keys for the albergue and I bought myself a souvenir scarf to replace the one I left behind - similar colours too.
    The Albergue is brand new - they haven’t completed putting in the bunk side lights. But everything else is great. There are keys for every door - and we even have wifi- unheard of in municipal albergues. I think the Galician government has spent some time and money upgrading their albergues. I imagine that the Camino Sanabres will become much more popular as the Frances is now so busy.
    Juan and I are having the usual late lunch together. He is probably going to do the 33 km stage tomorrow so this may be our last walking day together.
    It’s now later in the afternoon and I am sitting in the lounge area on a couch with my peppermint tea finishing this entry. Luxury.

    Buen Camino

    The body
    This morning I felt tired in my body and felt the need for more rest. The last few days have had some very steep climbs and challenging terrain. Doing a short day today has left me feeling refreshed and able to continue. I will have a rest day in Ourense in three days time - two shorter days and one long day. Then fun in the hot springs.

    Reflection on Campobecerros
    As I was walking this morning I came across a memorial for three people who had been shot by the fascists in 1936. I imagine that trauma can stay in a town for generations. Was that one of the reasons I felt a bit depressed there?    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerCamino Sanabrés
    Dag 11

    Day 47 - Campobecerros - 21.1 km

    6 november 2022, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Weather: 4 - 13 with fog and light rain all the morning
    Clothes: The same

    The walk - a grey day
    Mist and fog and very light drizzle for most of the walk. Which meant that there was not much to see so after my early morning spiritual music I put on an audio book, put my head down and just put one foot in front of the other.
    The clouds parted in the early afternoon and I got to my destination around 2.30 pm - a 6.5 hour walk.
    The knee is now fine but the old foot injury is a bit tender after some strenuous days - and today was about my maximum kms.
    Today we were in open mountain country with lots of ups and downs -around 1000 metres above sea level. There was also quite a lot of evidence of last summers fires here as well.
    Not much more to say. I haven’t had a coffee today so I think I am ready for a snooze. I forgot it was Sunday and nothing was open in the morning before we left - and there were only tiny three-house villages along the way. I am still walking with Juan although we walk at our own pace and meet up at the end of the day.
    It’s sort of good to have a ‘boring’ day in the fog - just relaxing and walking. But to be honest I felt grumpy and resistant- one of those days when I would rather be somewhere else.
    Campobecerros is a little town surrounded by hills - again reminds me of the towns in the Snowy Mountains. I am in the bar having my usual late lunch.
    The Albergue is warm, has blankets and new bathrooms. Really - what more could a girl want.
    This is the first time I have come across Peliqueiro, a traditional figure of the Laza Carnival - his statue is outside the albergue.

    Buen Camino

    PS. I slept for about 12 hours and I think this town might be a bit depressing. Or else I’m getting road weary. It’s been a while since I had a day off. Looking forward to Orense and the hot springs.    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerCamino Sanabrés
    Dag 10

    Day 46 - A Gudiŋa - 26 km

    5 november 2022, Spanje ⋅ 🌙 3 °C

    Weather: 1 - 13 degrees and sunny. 🌞🌞🌞
    Clothes: Same as yesterday
    The walk - feels like three days in one - 7.30 am start.

    Let me start by saying that the sun has been shining all day and the sky is a wide bright blue.

    The morning - and what a morning.
    The route again consisted of tracks and trails that went through the most wonderful mountain scenery - but today had so many more ups and downs which were much steeper than yesterday - finishing in a long long uphill to the border of Galicia. I didn’t take many photos- after all how many beautiful sections can I post - but just concentrated on putting one foot in front of the other, carefully navigating rocks and streams, and climbing up, up and up. It was a real workout. Phew. 😮‍💨
    As I went higher the frost was still present quite late in the morning. I am so pleased with my clothing which continues to keep me snug and warm. At one stage this morning I was reminded of Tibet and walking around Mt Kailas. This morning was not that hard…. but still hard. And truth be told I was worried about how long this uphill stretch would be - would I be ok?
    The way was well marked but at times very rugged and along what looked like dry and not-so-dry stream beds; and overgrown with trees so that I could barely see the sky if I happened to look up. My eyes were mainly looking for where to put my next step.
    I kept wondering if I had in fact wandered off the path to some new unknown land. I guessed even if I was off track I would end up somewhere where there were people- but it felt more like I would be walking / climbing like this forever and end up in the middle of nowhere with no help around to be found. It was one of those stages that feels like it will never end …. and then it suddenly does.
    Thank goodness for my online map so I could regularly check that I was actually on the route. This section would be impossible in the rain and probably just miserable if the weather hadn’t been so good.
    Never have I been so happy to see the tiny sunny meadow at the top of a mountain that is the border to Galicia.
    The middle section
    And of course once in Galicia the way was very well marked and water obstacles had bridges, stepping stones or raised granite blocks creating a dry pathway.
    In Galicia the way markers tell you how far you are from Santiago - kilometres and metres. The marker at the border said I had 244.471 km to go.
    The pathways from now on were wide and clear and of course still beautiful with many streams and small rivers. In Galicia you hear the sound of running water most of the time and there are plenty of fountains so no need to carry lots of water. There were also a lot of fat cows in small meadows along the way.
    I finally got to Vilavella about 13 km from Lubián - which still felt like a long way to go. I stumbled across a very expensive and flash hotel/spa and drank two coffees. Did I mention that all the Bars till now had been closed - this was my first coffee of the day. ☕️☕️. Another reason it felt like a tough morning.
    I had food with me so had sustained myself throughout the morning. However there were no more food stops till Lubián. So I got some cheese and a tomato from the shop a few doors from the hotel and some bread from the bakery around the corner. Perfect for a picnic or two later in the afternoon.
    Last leg to A Gudina.
    Initially this section was along more picturesque and ancient tracks but soon left the lush country and climbed into rocky hills. I had quite a few stops for rest and food. The country was so different from this morning- here it was high up in open rocky country under an expanse of blue sky. Stunning in a new and different way.
    Eventually with a few more down and up hills I got to A Gudina. This is another town with interesting architecture and many stories to tell.
    I followed my notes and found the Albergue only to find it had moved - but not too far away. It’s located in some sort of centre next to the swimming pool and is completely new with excellent facilities. It’s warm and it even feels like there is under floor heating in the dorm. There is one other pilgrim- Spanish Juan. We met in Vilavella. I’m not sure which route he took - I just followed the arrows- but he arrived before me.
    Given that I had been eating on and off all day I didn’t actually need a meal. However I went to the local Bar for a vino and tapas and to use their Wifi. 🙏
    A pretty amazing day. It took me 10 hours to walk 26 km but I feel OK and nothing hurts - and the first 6.5 km were really slow and hard - took around 3 hours.
    Today I learnt that as long as I have plenty of breaks I can now successfully do longer distances and more challenging routes. Tomorrow is 18 km so I can have a more relaxed start to the day. I wouldn’t have been saying that at the start of the VDLP. 😅😂

    Buen Camino

    PS. I have found the people in Galicia friendly and Camino focussed. Today I crossed paths with two older ladies who greeted me and asked about my Camino. I explained I was from Australia, had started in Sevilla and was walking solo. They asked - what if I fall over somewhere and hurt myself. I pulled out my phone (indicating I could call for help) and they were happy with that. By the way this conversation was made up of a few Spanish words from me and context, gestures- along with words - from the ladies. It always amazes me how we humans can communicate even when we don’t really speak each other’s language. ❤️    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerCamino Sanabrés
    3
    2
    Dag 9

    Day 45 - Lubián - 16.8 km

    4 november 2022, Spanje ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    Weather: 0 - 11 and cloudy
    Clothes: The same

    The day started clear with yet another beautiful pink sunrise. Relaxed breakfast coffee and toast at the bar and then off I went.
    The first part of the walk today was along the road going up, up and more up. Today we get to the highest point of this Camino before a long downhill to Santiago.
    I read that the route has also been a bit disrupted by building the AVE ( high speed train route) but all in all it was fine. The sun was shining and even though there was a cold wind that needed some adjustment of headgear from time to time, I felt snug.
    Just as I was getting a bit tired of the road the route went left to the tracks and dirt roads of previous times. The route wound under the new overpasses and I crossed a wonderful river cascading over rocks. Then to my surprise I came to a white concrete roadway that took me to the highest point. I sat in the sun just before the top. I wanted to savour this stage because it felt like the end of the endless stage of the Camino. I am definitely coming into that last stage I spoke about in a previous post - before I know it I will be in Santiago. It now seems harder to stay in the day I am in - the mind keeps jumping ahead to the end.
    The monument, sitting on green grass flanked by Birch trees, was a short way down from the actual highest point. I spent quite some time there before the body/mind was ready to move on down the hill.
    Before long I came to the tiny village of Padornelo which never the less had a significant hotel and bar/restaurant. Warm fire, coffee and Jamon bocadilla, and I was ready for the last 8 km to Lubián.
    The last section was as beautiful as the first section and yesterday’s meandering track. While I am not yet in Galicia itself I am definitely in Galician country. I feel so at home here. If yesterday was a fairy path today was the dwarf path. Wonderful.
    More rivers, bridges, trees and tracks and I eventually got to Lubián. The albergue door was unlocked - as they all have been over the past few days and given it was 3.30 pm I went straight to get some food. I just scraped into the restaurant’s lunch time - ends at 4 pm. I couldn’t have waited till 8.30 pm and didn’t have the energy or brain power to buy food and cook. A lovely woman guided me to the Bar through the winding streets of this small village.
    Right now I am sitting in the Bar grabbing some Wifi.
    Then it’s back to the albergue to get ready for tomorrow.

    Buen Camino

    Reflection
    The monument at the pass at A Canda (1365 metres) was a powerful moment - an important moment - a place to stop and reflect. It has taken me 6 weeks to reach this point and in two weeks I will in Santiago.
    In my mind’s eye I could see Santiago ahead and after that the rest of my life - which at that moment seemed more terrifying and uncertain than walking the Camino forever.
    My mind very naturally reflected on the last 6 weeks and various Camino memories arose - the hard bits, the easy bits, the inspiring bits. In that moment I wanted to go back to Sevilla and do it all over again.
    This Camino feels like getting to know a stranger with all the ups and downs of that journey - only to discover that as you come to thoroughly know them, there is only love. And love. And love.
    My eyes keep getting wet and I am not sure why. Anticipation of the Camino goodbye or the love that the Camino elicits?

    Camino amigo talks about Galicia
    I had a buddy last night. A man from Madrid, Serge, who is riding his bike from Sevilla to Santiago in 15 days. That’s all the time he has. Phew! He wants to ride through Chile. The Camino is part of his preparation.
    Serge lived in the US for a year and is a flight attendant. We had a great chat. And he gave me the warmest farewell after coffee in the morning. I again saw that I am shy of goodbyes and letting people know how much they mean to me - something to let go.
    Serge’a father comes from Galicia and he told me a little about this district. It’s one of the poorest in Spain because it is so mountainous. Serge said his father left the village at age 14 to go to school and that in the 60’s people started to move to the cities. There are only two people living permanently in Serge’s father’s village. Many who have left villages have kept and renovated their traditional village homes and go there for the summer holidays. So the villages can be busy in summer but deserted in winter. This part of the Camino goes through tourist areas - hence the bigger hotels and Bars.

    PS. I am standing outside (catching some internet bars) as the sun sets and the moon rises. It’s clear and cold but so fresh and pleasant. I am a mountain person. Beautiful.    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerCamino Sanabrés
    1
    11111212
    Dag 8

    Day 44 - Requejo - 12.7 km

    3 november 2022, Spanje ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    Weather: 2 - 14 degrees. Yesterday said rain - today maybe not.
    Clothes: short and long sleeve merino top, fleece and rain jacket, trekking pants.

    The walk.
    I left my hotel to a misty foggy morning- droplets of water that could perhaps be called rain only a couple of times.
    There have been a number of warnings that the Camino trail could be flooded in certain sections here during rainy seasons. However given it wasn’t actually raining when I left at 9 am I thought I would see how I felt when I got to the first turn off.
    Well it seemed fine so off I went along the river. And it was exquisite. There were a couple of water hurdles but someone had kindly made some small bridges and the only time I got my feet wet was when I thought the second bridge looked a little unsteady and I tried to walk through the meadow. Turns out it was a water meadow so with slightly wet feet I headed back to the bridge which turned out to be rock solid.
    Walking along the river was a such delight I didn’t at all mind the slightly wet feet.
    I also began to understand that this section might have been difficult and even frightening for someone else. - thinking of my German friend Peter, who has had 5 operations in 4 years.
    Again I was grateful for my early life in the country; camping, walking through the bush and enjoying the challenges this can bring.
    After the first river section I followed the arrows and walked along the road where I was partnered by a rainbow for the next hour or more. 🌈🌈🌈. How can I doubt that I am loved and protected?
    I missed the next river section as the causeway just off the road was flooded and a man came to shout me away - he was really looking for his cow but he also seemed to indicate that I should stay on the road
    The next choice was to either continue along the road or try the longer ‘scenic’ route. I took the scenic route and as it initially went up hill, seemed safe from flooding.
    I was so happy I did that. It was a fairy land of tracks and trails and trees and leaves and light and sparkling streams and small meadows and cows and bliss -perhaps the most beautiful section since Sevilla. ❤️❤️❤️. One guide said it was picturesque- an understatement.
    I arrived at Requejo at 12.30 pm - no time at all - stopped at the Bar for a refresh before I went to find my albergue.
    On the way there I met a young French man - he said his name was Rocket. He was travelling to Porto - hitchhiking and walking. It was comforting for us both to have a conversation- his English was great - and to wish each other well in our various adventures.
    After the usual albergue routine I headed for the local hotel/ restaurant to eat. Although the town seems deserted the restaurant was buzzing - with tables having second and even third seatings.
    So that’s it for today. Till tomorrow.

    Buen Camino

    Reflections on the mind …
    At various times in the night and early morning the mind fretted about rain and coffee. Will it rain and do they serve real coffee for breakfast in the hotel (there are no Bars nearby). Thank goodness through mindful practice I was able to turn away from these thoughts and have a good nights sleep.
    And guess what - no rain, just fog: and plenty of real coffee for breakfast. 😂🤣😂🤣😂
    Today I realised that the mind has been doing an awful lot of worrying over this Camino - as I have shared in previous posts - more so than on previous Caminos . Over and over again everything turns out OK.
    I also thought it might be that there is so much more fear energy in the world these days. From all the people wanting to walk a Camino but sharing on various forums how scared they are - to Peter yesterday taking about flood and snow as we head over the mountains.
    And here I am, the sun is shining, I am well fed, I have warm bed and clean clothes. And I am safe.    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerCamino Sanabrés
    2
    1
    Dag 7

    Puebla de Sanabria - Medieval Old Town

    2 november 2022, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I think this historic town deserves a page to itself. Especially as all the signs are in Spanish and English.
    The town was taken over in 1451 by the Fourth Count of Benavente and his wife, Countess Maria de Pacheco.
    They built the castle and Countess Maria ‘concluded that together they built the town’ - which they probably did in the sense that I imagine it might have been a rather ‘insignificant’ village before the Count and Countess came and put their mark on it.
    This region is situated quite close to Portugal so the Count and Countess had to be prepared to defend their territory.
    As I was exploring the castle and surrounds I came across (dare I say) a ‘trendy’ Bar/Cafe. Of course I stopped. I’ve been ‘roughing’ it for quite a a while now. So I got a vino and wedges with sauce and sour cream. I must say the wine was excellent and the wedges were perfect.
    This medieval town is exquisite. It’s like a huge outdoor museum. As well as the castle, walls and defence structures (like the watch tower) there is a large church and a smaller chapel. The surrounding buildings have been well restored and the work is ongoing. All the important buildings are named and explained.
    I always wonder who actually lives in these places now. Are they for some sort of elite or are some of the old time residents still around.
    My wander around the narrow and twisting streets has been one of the highlights of this Camino - partly because it was unexpected and partly because the old town felt really accessible.    Meer informatie

    Zie vertaling
  • ReizigerCamino Sanabrés
    2
    Dag 7

    Day 43 - Puebla de Sanabria - 12.5 km

    2 november 2022, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    Weather: 1 - 13 degrees. Cloudy with some sun. Brrrr
    Clothes: short and long sleeve merino tops, light wind fleece, rain jacket, trekking pants.

    The walk.
    I’m looking forward to Puebla - it has a medieval old town and the nearby lake is the largest glacial lake on the Iberian peninsula.
    What a beautiful day. Wonderful sunrise and blue sky for much of the morning.
    My German friend Peter warned me last night that this next section on the Camino can be flooded after rain and that he was going to walk along the road - and that is a bit shorter as well.
    I started off with Peter along the road but thought I would walk the off road Camino. However when I got to the turn off something stopped me. I looked at the map and read the route description again. It sounded like this could be even worse than some of the other wet sections I had already traversed. A quick check in with the body and I headed back to the road.
    And what a beautiful walk - virtually no traffic and beautiful autumn trees (Birch, Chestnut and others I couldn’t identify) on either side of the road. A little later there were windfall apples again - delicious.
    And then the real mountains appeared ahead - the ones that will eventually be covered in snow - again reminding me of the Snowy Mountains - this time the view from Geehi Flats (the old air strip) where we used to pick blackberries.
    So many of the landscapes of Spain remind me of Australia. New yet familiar.
    Arrived at Puebla around 11.30 am, stopped at the supermarket for some fruit and the Farmacia for some more ibuprofen and Panadol. I had a quick look at the town and then on over the second river crossing to my hotel. It looked a bit run down from the outside but the inside is great - filled with all sorts of collectables from the area.
    The manager also said I can use their computer so I can finally fill out the form for the claim for a fraudulent transaction on my Cash Passport card. Better late than never.
    Staying in a hotel also gives me the chance to completely empty my pack and get organised again.
    On the next day or so we will go over the highest point on this Camino and then down hill to Santiago.
    Later in the afternoon I walked back up to the old town and had a peaceful wander around the castle and adjacent streets. A lovely way to end the day.

    Buen Camino

    PS. Managed to wash and dry most of my clothes. I washed undies, socks and one top earlier and when the heaters came on washed some more. My wind fleece was looking grubby so now it too is clean and fresh.    Meer informatie

    Zie vertaling

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