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  • Day 20

    Tsawwassen to Home

    August 20, 2023 in Canada ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    I woke up at 6:30 a.m. but stayed in the very comfortable bed for another hour and a half. Eventually, I made my way downstairs and was greeted with another big hug and a delicious cup of coffee. A little while later, more deliciousness appeared in the form of fresh baked blueberry scones, which Ingrid whipped up in no time. She's a very impressive cook!!

    I left Tsawwassen just after 10:00 a.m. and arrived at the ferry terminal at 10:14 to find they could take me on the 10:25 a.m. sailing directly to Long Harbour. I was the last vehicle on, and then we were off. The Strait of Georgia was very windy and the seas very lumpy but it was wonderful to smell the sea air again.

    In no time at all were docking at Long Harbour, and I was home less than 15 minutes later. It feels good to be home.

    Here are my takeaways from this trip:
    - Various people asked me if I was afraid to travel alone. It's true that you hear so much bad stuff on the news. But honestly, my experience is that people are wonderfully friendly and helpful. You need to be cautious, of course. I kept to family-friendly places and never felt worried about my safety, even at the Red Apple Inn.

    - I needed to do this trip alone. I had had a sad few months with a good friend and then my aunt and my father dying. I felt I needed the space to do something a bit difficult and to be alone with my thoughts. Thankfully, my husband gets me and my need for freedom. And while I was glad for this time alone, I really enjoy traveling with my husband. I think we travel well together and it's way more fun to share experiences with someone special.

    - Our world is in big trouble. On a motorcycle, you get up close and personal with nature. And nature is hurting. You realize how serious our situation actually is. I don't know what the fix is, but whatever we do, it probably needs to happen quickly.

    Thank you for following along. It was a comfort to know you were checking up on me.
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  • Day 19

    Tonasket to Tsawwassen

    August 19, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    I was up at 6:30 a.m. I dressed quickly and then opened the curtains so I could see better. Big mistake. There was a good reason the room had only one very dim lamp, and the full extent of its decrepitness was now clear. I very quickly packed up and didn't bother checking around in case I'd left anything. No way was I poking into the corners or under the bed of that place.

    My bike was covered in a layer of ash, which didn't bode well for the ride ahead. I had originally wanted to take Highway 20 West. It's a beautiful twisty road that goes almost to the coast. Unfortunately, a section west of Winthrop was closed due to the fires, and there was no way around.

    Google Maps now has a feature showing where all the fires are burning and where the smoke is heaviest. If you type "wildfires" in the sesrch bar, you can see what a mess North America is in. I'm sad that we now have this feature but it's very helpful. The shortest but smokiest way home was to go north to Canada and then west. The longer, clearer route was to go south for a bit and then west on Highway 2. I chose the longer, clearer route to give my lungs a break from all the smoke.

    I went down the road about two kilometers and had coffee and a cinnamon roll with Laura, Denise, and Cinnamon, the pug, who invited me to join them.

    Finally, I couldn't delay getting on the road, and off I went. Temperatures were good, and the smoke did seem to be less dense as I went south, so for a while, it was a pleasant ride.

    Eventually, there was lots of traffic on the roads, probably because of road closures due to fires. The smoke never disappeared completely. At lower elevations, it was clearer, but it got quite thick higher up. Eventually, I made it to Interstate 5 and just booted it up to Canada. The border control agent didn't even ask me to remove my helmet.

    Thirty minutes later, I was in Tsawwassen, where our lovely friends Greg and Ingrid live. With very short notice, they had very graciously offered me big hugs, a fabulous meal, a soak in their hot tub, and a freakishly comfortable, clean bed. What a difference from the night before!
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  • Day 18

    Logan State Park to Tonasket, Washington

    August 18, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    I was up at 6:30 a.m. after a restless night. The park is right beside the highway, and the traffic passing by was very loud.

    I was on the road at 7:15 a.m. with all bags closed securely! The road was very quiet, and the temperature was perfect for the ride to Libby, Montana. I stopped here for breakfast at Henry' Restaurant. It doesn't look like much, but the food was good.

    I continued on Highway 2 through Idaho, where the air was very clear for the first time in days. There had been a strong wind blowing, and it really made driving a bit of a challenge.

    At Newport, I turned on to Highway 20. As the day wore on, it got hotter, and the wind got stronger. I stopped at Colville, and while I was having a snack, the wind picked up even more and very quickly brought in hot, smokey air. I assumed it was coming from all the Kelowna fires.

    I continued on Highway 20 in heavy smoke. From Barney's Junction to Tonasket is a really lovely stretch of road. It actually got cool as the road went over a pass. There were many places to pull over and see the views except that the views were obliterated by all the smoke.

    I'm currently staying at the Red Apple Inn in Tonasket. If you're ever out this way, don't stay here. Chris, the owner, is friendly, and the sheets smell clean, but I can't vouch for the cleanliness of the carpet or certain corners of the bathroom floor. Still, it beats sleeping in a tent and breathing in smoke all night.

    It would seem that North America is on fire. I hope I make it home without damaging my lungs.
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  • Day 17

    Havre to Logan State Park

    August 17, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    I had a great sleep and lots of it, and I was looking forward to my ride today. I knew it was going to be hot, and I had many miles of prairie to get through before I got to the mountains. I felt rested and ready for the challenges ahead.

    The evening before, I was so tired I didn't even feel like going to a restaurant. Instead, I walked over to a nearby grocery store and bought a salad kit and a sandwich. I also bought some blueberries and yogurt which I ate for my breakfast. The only thing missing was coffee. I decided to just get on the road and get some along the way.

    I wasn't thinking about the fact that I was in the prairies and there isn't anywhere to stop between towns. It took a while, but eventually, I found coffee and was on my way again. At the next town, I sailed through, and this turned out to be a serious tactical error. Not long after this town, I realized I needed to pee. I was on a road with no shoulder in a land without out trees or even bushes. Finally, just as things were getting serious, bushes appeared. And, of course, not two minutes after my pit stop, I came to the town of Shelby.

    After a quick stop for gas, I was on my way again. As I left town, there was a sign warning of wind gusts for the next 35 miles. There had already been a strong wind blowing all day, and now the ante was upped. In addition, the air quickly became very hot and very smokey. The ride from Shelby to Cut Bank was not fun, but things improved a bit by Browning, and then I was in the mountains.

    Eventually, I came to Logan State Park and got my tent set up. After a break, I set off to Happy's Inn for supper. About halfway to the Inn, I heard a loud noise and my bike started jiggling. I thought I had blown a tire. I grabbed the clutch and the brakes and eased over to the shoulder. Luckily, I hadn't blown a tire. Instead, I had forgotten to close my saddle bags, and a jacket had flown out and wrapped itself around my axle, chain, and sprocket. It was lucky I grabbed the clutch, or I might have had a tumble. It took me an hour to cut it out, scrape all the debris out of each sprocket, and then oil the chain.

    Back at the campground, I had a shower and wandered around for a bit. I was hoping things would cool off when the sun went down, but I think it's going to be a warm night.
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  • Day 16

    Saskatoon to Havre

    August 16, 2023 in Canada ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    Today, my plan was to get to Havre, Montana. I was sad to be leaving Saskatoon because there were so many people that I hadn't been able to see. Our son and daughter-in-law will be moving back, so hopefully, we'll get to catch up with more people on our visits.

    I thought it was going to be a hot day, but the forecast must have changed. I had left all my jacket vents open, and it ended up being quite cool and windy.

    There was a gusty croswind blowing as I headed west. At Rosetown, SK, I stopped for coffee and battened the hatches! After closing all my vents and after some hot coffee, I turned south toward Swift Current, SK. I was warm and comfortable, and now I had the wind at my back. The scenery was amazing and so expansive. The prairies really are beautiful in a way that is so different from the coast.

    I made a quick stop at Swift Current for gas and carried on. Not far south, I met with the grasshoppers. They started pinging me, mostly from the knee down. When they hit your shins, you really feel it. They were annoying but not dangerous and were making a mess of my clean motorcycle.

    I stopped for fuel in Val Marie and then continued to the border at Monchy. This is a very quiet border, and an older woman on a motorcycle is probably an anomaly. The friendly border control agents checked my passport and seemed happy to linger and chit-chat. Eventually, I was on my way.

    This side of the border, the grasshoppers were a bit more aggressive, and I got hit right on my visor. I had to stop to clean it off and discovered two things. Grasshoppers had found their way into crevices all over my bike and bags and wasps really like the dead grasshoppers.

    I was getting very tired because I hadn't slept well the night before. It was warm, and I was getting sleepy, so I occupied my mind by doing math. Every time I saw a sign showing how far something was, I converted it from miles to kilometers and then to time to travel in minutes.

    I finally made it to Havre. I had decided when I was in Rosetown that I would get a hotel room instead of camping. It was either going to be very hot or cold and raining, and I was too tired to deal with either of those conditions in a tent.

    The Siesta Hotel didn't seem like it was going to be promising, but it turned out to be very clean and very comfortable. I was in bed and asleep by 8:30 pm!!
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  • Day 15

    Big River to Saskatoon

    August 15, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    On August 11, Jenny and I were up fairly early, and after a quick breakfast, I was on the road. After all the rain, the gravel roads were now slick mud roads. I had about 3.5 kilometers to go on these crazy roads, I had to go so slowly I didn't get out of first gear, and I was relieved to get to pavement.

    I had an uneventful, slightly drizzly ride to Shell Lake, where I stopped in for lunch and had a lovely visit with friends at their cabin. After lunch, I continued on to Saskatoon to stay with a very dear friend. She had a comfortable bed for me and a delicious pot of homemade soup.

    I spent the next few days pampered and well fed. I visited good friends, neighbours and former colleagues. I enjoyed seeing the familiar sights of Saskatoon and remembering the 27 years we lived here. It is a beautiful, vibrant city in the summer and well worth a visit.

    Today, I gave my bike a wash to get all the mud off, did my laundry, and then packed up all my gear.

    My plan is to leave early tomorrow morning and get some miles done before it gets too hot.
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  • Day 10

    Big River Sewing Extravaganza

    August 10, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Jenny and I were up and having breakfast at about 8:30 a.m. She had made banana bread the day before, and for breakfast, she toasted thick slices and then spread butter on them. I'm telling you, that banana bread was next level! From now on, I'm always toasting my banana bread.

    At 9:30 a.m. we went into her sewing studio and started our bra-making workshop. We stopped for a quick lunch, but otherwise, I spent the whole day sewing while it poured with rain outside.

    I finished a test bra, we did some pattern alterations, and then I started on a second bra, which I didn't have time to finish.

    As the day wore on, I could feel myself coming down with a head cold. I guess my adventures have taken their toll, and the universe is reminding me I'm not 25 anymore!

    I went to bed early.
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  • Day 9

    Vegreville, AB to Big River, SK

    August 9, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    WTF, Alberta! It's supposed to be summer, but it's ridiculously cold. This side of the Rockies seems to be getting adequate precipitation, and everything is lush and green. To my amateur eye, crops look very healthy. But damn it's cold and drizzly.

    I knew it was going to rain today, so last evening, I walked over to a nearby Canadian Tire to find a solution for my wet gloves. The best I could find were some large, bright blue rubber gloves. They are keeping my hands dry but are not offering much in the way of insulation. I feel like Jamie Lee Curtis in "Everything, Everywhere, All at Once with the sausage fingers and the bad hair.

    I left Vegreville at 8:30 a.m., stopped for gas in Vermillion, and then at 10:30 a.m. stopped for a latte at Starbucks in Lloydminster.

    After my stop, things seemed to warm up a bit, and the drizzle stopped. I got gas at Glaslyn and very mediocre food at the only open restaurant there. It had warmed up enough that I was able to ditch the rubber gloves, and the next hour or so was very pleasant.

    Unfortunately, things took a turn when Google Maps directed me to turn left onto a gravel road. I stopped to check the directions. Staying only on paved roads would have added another hour to my trip. After weighing the options, I decided to stay the course and continue down this actual goat path of a road. I am, after all, a seasoned veteran of Saskatchewan gravel roads, having lived on an acreage here for over 20 years. As I continued, though, it did occur to me that if I had a tumble, I would probably be there for three years before anyone happened by. There were no houses on this road and I passed no one. Eventually, I turned on to a super-grid where there was more activity. It was slow going, and I had a few really good wobbles before I finally hit pavement again.

    I was covered in dust when I pulled into the home of Jenny Ambrose, 10 minutes drive from Big River. I'll be staying here for two nights. Jenny is an experienced sewist and the founder and former owner of the Makehouse in Victoria, BC. We will be doing a one-on-one bra-making workshop here at her home tomorrow.

    We jumped in her car and drove the 10 minutes to Big River. I bought a few groceries for tomorrow and we had a very good supper at Third & Main restaurant.

    A warm shower and a comfortable bed were a very nice ending to the day.
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  • Day 8

    Nordegg to Vegreville

    August 8, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    So yesterday, when I crawled into my tent, I checked the weather and discovered that rain was forecast in the area where I'd be traveling today. I decided to "cry uncle," and I booked a hotel room in Vegreville. There is only so much a 63 year old body can take, after all.

    It was a cold trip to Rocky Mountain House in my wet gloves. I gobbled down a big breakfast and two cups of hot coffee at the Rainbow Cafe before my hands finally warmed up. I also chatted with two lovely older gentlemen from the US. It turns out they were brothers who had been keen motorcycle drivers back in the day. They had traveled extensively by motorcycle, and they suggested a route for my return journey home through the US. After they finished eating, they came out to see my bike. They each gave me a big hug and wished me well on my travels.

    I carried on to Argyll Sports in Edmonton, where they were able to fit me in to tighten, clean, and lubricate my chain, which was getting a bit sloppy.

    I finally got to Vegreville at about 4:00 p.m. I was given a huge room with a king-size bed and separate sitting area. I was able to spread all my wet tent gear around the room to dry up and then enjoy a long, hot shower. All this luxury, and I wasn't charged extra. It was a very comfortable evening.

    I didn't take many pictures because, well, Edmonton is just not very interesting. Sorry, Edmonton.
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  • Day 7

    Valemount to Nordegg

    August 7, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Well, where to begin! The day started out very well, but by about 4:00 p.m. things were looking bleak.

    I started with a hearty breakfast at Abernathy's Restaurant a few kilometers out of Valemount. The restaurant is not much to look at. In fact, I thought the business had closed down as there wasn't much activity, but the coffee was good, and the breakfast was substantial. And it would be the only real meal I had the entire day.

    In just over 100 km, I was in Jasper and sitting in the Snowdome Coffee Bar with a really excellent latte and a muffin. It turns out the Snowdome is also a giant laundromat and coin-operated shower facility.

    From Jasper, I took Highway 93 South. The scenery along this road was absolutely stunning. Although the whole area was shrouded in forest fire smoke, I still stopped many times to take pictures. At Saskatchewan River Crossing, I turned east on Highway 11 to Nordegg. There are also many stunning vistas on this highway, and again, I stopped many times to take pictures.

    As I traveled east, I noticed that the view ahead was hard to make out. I thought this was due to all the smoke, but as it turned out, it was a massive thunderstorm into which I was rushing headlong! A predicted 60% chance of a thunderstorm had now become 100% certain. All my picture-taking delayed my arrival in Nordegg, and when I still had about 20 kilometers to go, the thunderstorm and I collided. It was dark, windy and wet with lightning streaking down exactly where I was headed. When the hail started, I pulled off the road and sat on my bike till that stopped.

    I carried on and thanked the universe when a gas station appeared. I hunkered down in the store with the two Chinese ladies who worked there. After about 30 minutes, the rain eased up a bit, so I carried on to Nordegg.

    My plan had been to camp at Upper Shunda Campground just outside Nordegg, but I ditched that plan and started looking for accommodations. Nordegg is a small place, and unfortunately, nothing was available.

    I had no choice but to go to the campground. I stopped at the check-in office, but no one was around. The rain had eased up, but the wind was howling. I was worried that more rain was on the way, so I wanted to get everything set up quickly. Eventually, Linda arrived and put me in a spot close to the office. In the kerfuffle of arriving in the wind and rain, I lost my prescription glasses. It would have been a huge problem to lose them, but eventually, I found them lying in the gravel.

    I fumbled around, struggling to position my motorcycle and to get my tarp and tent set up only to discover that I was two feet from a massive ant hill. They were those huge red and black ants that can take a big chunk out of you. No way was I crawling in and out of my tent with those dudes so close. I had no choice but to reposition everything - bike, tent, tarp. That all took another hour or so, and by the time I got my habitat prepared, the rain and wind had disappeared. After all that struggle, there was no way I was unwrapping my bike to go get supper. I purchased a bag of nacho chips and some bottled water at the camp office, and that was supper.

    The last straw I discovered was the f#&king mosquitos. Living on Salt Spring Island for the last three years, where we're mostly mosquito-free, I had forgotten how relentless they can be. They made my already meager supper miserable. I gave up sitting and went for a walk around camp and then gave up completely and crawled into my tent at 8:30 p.m.
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