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Río Negro

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    • Südamerika
      Day 39

      Hornopirén

      November 17, 2022 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      Um von Hornopirén weiter zu kommen, ist man auf eine 4.5-stündige Fährenfahrt bis nach Caleta Gonzalo angewiesen, die nur 1x pro Tag verkehrt. Über eine Stunde stehen wir morgens in der Warteschlange, bis die Fähre losfährt - ohne uns. Wie wir erfahren, benötigt man ein Ticket, welches wir für frühestens übermorgen kaufen können… Nicht gerade begeistert sind wir nun gezwungen, zu warten und das Beste aus den nächsten Tagen zu machen. Kurzerhand entscheiden wir uns, über eine andere Route zurück in das schöne Dörfchen Puerto Varas zu fahren, wo wir sogar doch noch die Vulkane Osorno und Calbuco zu Auge bekommen - immerhin. Nach einer Nacht in Puerto Varas und etwas Patagonia-Shopping nehmen wir wieder die Carretera Austral bis Hornopirén, wo wir am nächsten Tag erfolgreich die Fährfahrt antreten. Die Überfahrt ist aufgrund von Dauerregen leider wenig spektakulär. In Caleta Gonzalo angekommen fahren wir über Schotter- und gut ausgebaute Strassen via Chaitén bis zum Hundertseelendörfchen La Junta, wo wir die nächste Nacht verbringen.Read more

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    • TravelerSüdamerika
      Day 27

      On our way to Patagonia

      December 14, 2019 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

      Heute endlich den Mietwagen abgeholt (nen flotten Subaru XV 4WD) und uns auf den Weg nach Patagonien gemacht. Noch einen kurzen Zwischenstop in Hornopien bevor es morgen früh auf die lange Fährfahrt durch die Fjorde Richtung Chaiten geht. Let‘s move South!Read more

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    • TravelerPatagonia. Here we come.
      Day 19

      Les villages de pêcheurs

      November 5, 2022 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Depuis Ralùn jusqu'à Caleta Puelche nous suivons la côte d'un fjord de près de 100km, qui se faufile entre des sommets enneigés... et nous dégustons du caillou, des nids-de-poule, de la tôle ondulée et la poussière soulevée par camions et voitures.

      Au passage nous découvrons une rhubarbe géante, quelque peu jurassique, la nalca, qui abonde au bord de la route. Abondent aussi les chiens joueurs, vaches, moutons et chèvres, et des volées occasionnelles de vautours, dont cet étonnant spécimen à tête rouge (serait-ce un... condor?). L'activité principale semble être la pêche, ou élevage, de saumon, crustacés etc.. à l'aide de filets et casiers fixes. Le "Salmon a la plancha", grillé mais carrément cru à l’intérieur, est excellent!

      Passé Caleta nous arrivons sur les bords de la mer intérieure abritée par la Terre de Chiloe. Il bruine et le ciel est bas. Le parfum de la marée nous pénètre. La pêche se fait ici en mer avec des jolis bateaux de bois semblables à ceux que je voyais en Bretagne il y a 60 ans. La construction se fait à même la plage, et les couleurs sont pimpantes. Cette vision heureuse s'accompagne de cimetières fleuris, extravagants.. Sont-ce les risques de la mer?

      Le guide (bouquin) explique que se pratique sur ces rivages une cueillette sous-marine aux coquillages, follement dangereuse, très profonde et aidée seulement d'un tuyau d'arrosage relié à une pompe rudimentaire...
      D'imposantes piles de coquilles de moules grosses comme la main, témoignent.

      Après avoir admiré le passage de phoques et de gros dauphins, nous campons près du littoral dans cette ambiance marine.

      Cap vers nos prochaines découvertes, non sans avoir profité de l'activité tectonique locale: ces bains dans les sources thermales soulagent nos bras, cuisses et dos des cahots et fatigues du chemin. Un peu ébahis, nous titubons vers nos vélos pour finir l'étape au chaud à Hornopirén.      Read more

    • TravelerPatagonia
      1
      Day 3

      Début pluvieux sur la carretera austral

      December 16, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Sous la pluie, on a pris le ferry a Caleta Arena pour rejoindre Caleta Puelche. Sous la pluie, la route reste impressionnante... montagnes à gauche... golfe à droite... brouillard au milieu... forêts denses ailleurs. Sous la pluie, Seb a conduit sur un chemin de boue et de cailloux... la voiture tient le coup ! Sous la pluie, on a roulé jusque Hornopiren où on a réservé le ferry... Sous la grêle, on pensait avoir trouvé un petit coin tranquille en mode camping sauvage, jusqu'à ce que le fou-poivrot du village décide d'être notre ami. Sous la pluie, on s'est rabattu sur un camping agréable (et payant) avec des bébés cochons de toutes les couleurs. Pour le moment, on rencontre très peu de touristes, il y avait seulement un autre couple dans le camping. La pluie s'est arrêtée et on a pu admirer le paysage, faire notre popote et passer une nuit... un peu sous la pluie mais pas trop.Read more

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    • Las aventuras de Carlitos
      Day 183

      Warten auf ☀️ und ⛴️

      March 4, 2022 in Chile ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

      Nach Valdivia fahren wir Richtung Anfang der Carretera Austral. Übersetzt heisst dies einfach "südliche Fernstrasse". Die 1300km von Puerto Montt nach Villa O'Higgins wurden in den 70er von Chiles berüchtigtem Diktator Pinochet zugänglich gemacht - mit Fährverbindungen und Schotter-/Erdstrassen. Inzwischen soll die Strecke grösstenteils asphaltiert sein, auch wenn es eine einzige Baustelle sein soll (Regen, Wind & Meer sind hier die Feinde). Die Carretera führt durch 10 Nationalparks, Regenwald, an Wasserfällen und Bergen mit Gletschern vorbei - trotz Strassenzustand also eine ziemlich attraktive Gegend. 😊

      Leider erwischen wir scheinbar eine schlechte Woche für den Start.. Tagelang regnet es mit nur wenig Aufhellungen - passend zu den traurigen, erschreckenden Nachrichten aus Europa.🇺🇦💔 Auf Wanderungen haben wir entsprechend wenig Lust und wir verbringen viel Zeit auf unseren 3.5m2 🥴
      Einen Tag gönnen wir uns in den Termas del Sol - einer wunderschöne Therme mit 10 heissen (36-42 Grad) Aussenbecken mitten im Regenwald an einem Fluss/einer Lagune. Ansonsten verbringen wir etwas Zeit in Hornopirén, wo wir waschen können und da das Internet für einmal gut ist, kann Manu sogar Fussball schauen.
      Wieso wir hier bleiben, wenn es uns doch nicht so richtig gefällt? Leider müssen wir von Hornopirén nach Caleta Gonzalo eine Fähre nehmen, die bereits weit im Voraus ausgebucht war und auf der wir erst am 4.3. Einen Platz ergattern konnten. Hoffentlich bessert sich im Süden nicht nur das Wetter sondern auch unsere Laune. 🙊      Read more

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    • The Craze for TravellingThe South American Odyssey
      Day 96

      Cabañas Nido del Aguila

      January 3, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      After searching for about 40 min and looking at 15 different places, they chose a place some 50 mts from the harbor (Nido del Aguila) at 35000 CLP for 4 people. It was a nice cabaña for 4 people with a fireplace in the living room. We lit up the fire and then walked 2 kms to the town. It was still raining when we left the cabaña.Read more

    • The Craze for TravellingThe South American Odyssey
      Day 97

      Stuck at Hornopiren

      January 4, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 30 °C

      We woke up and got ready by 9 am. Thr girls and I went to the restaurant opposite our cabin and ordered break while Hristo went to the ferry office to buy the tickets to the 10 am ferry.
      He joined us after a while and told that there was a que for the tickets when he reached but then there was an announcement that the 10 am ferry was postponed due to bad weather and that a fresh announcement would be made at 12 pm.
      After breakfast, we came back to the cabin and slept for a while more. Melinda and I woke up at 11:30 am went to check at the ferry office. There, we were told that both the ferries had been canceled due to bad weather and heavy storm at Caleta Gonzalo. There was a que for buying the tickets for the next day so we stood in the que. There was a que of cars and trucks standing to get on the ferry. All these people would be stuck at Hornopiren since there was no alternate route to travel South from here. I messaged Hristo to extend our stay at the room since we had seen a lot of people walk past towards the town but he was still sleeping it seems since he didn't receive the messages.
      In the meantime I continued standing in the que. There was total chaos there. No one knew what was going on inside the office bit since I was around 15 places behind, I didn't leave my place. After almost 2.5 hrs when I reached the front of the que, I was informed that they were 1st giving tickets to the people whole had the cancelled ferry at 10 am, then the ones who had it at 4 pm and then only after that, will they give the tickets to those who didn't have one. There was a separate que forming for the 'new tickets people'. I moved and stood there. My number was the 2nd bit we would have to wait till the whole main que was over and tickets altered for the ones who had their ferries today. The whole thing took another 2 hours. Around 4 pm, they announced that the ferry tickets for the 10 am ferry the next day were over and that people would have to buy tickets for the day after. On asking the details, we were told that only the vehicle tickets were over bit there still were some left for the passengers. Finally, around 4:30 pm, we reached the counters and were able to buy the tickets for the 10 am ferry the next day.
      Just when I reached the counter, there was a ferry coming in and we could see a heavy storm behind it. On inquiring, we were told that only people in the ferry were getting off. This ferry would not be going back.
      Just when we left the ferry office, the storm hit the town. We ran and took cover in the information booth cum cafe. The rain beat down like crazy. We couldn't see more tha 5 mts outside. I was quite tired after standing in the que for 5 hours so we sat and had empenadas, cakes and tea at the cafe. There was a short window when the rain reduced a bit so we left back for the cabañas. By the time we reached there, Hristo and Maria had left to have food.
      It rained the rest of the evening and we stayed indoors with the fire burning in the fireplace and keeping us warm and cozy. We watched some movies on the TV. We had a late dinner at the restaurant opposite the cabins and then slept off.      Read more

    • The Craze for TravellingThe South American Odyssey
      Day 96

      Hornopiren village

      January 3, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 30 °C

      It was raining when we left our place and ot continued to drizzle as we walked around the village. The whole town was 2-3 streets around the main square. The main square was very lovely though. There were wooden lamp posts and a board with the town name.Read more

    • The Craze for TravellingThe South American Odyssey
      Day 96

      Cabañas Oelckerls

      January 3, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 30 °C

      From the the harbor, we walked to the cabañas Oelckerls. This, we had been informed was the only bar in the village and might still be open for food. They had very lovely wooden cabins for 4 people and were actually cheaper (at 30000 CLP for 4 persons cabin) than the one we were staying at. But it was 2 kms away from the harbor. It had a nice bar, restaurant and disco along with the cabañas. The rest of the gang decided to stay for dinner while I had had enough stuff at the cafe so I left back for the cabin, had a nice warm shower and slept by the time the rest came back.Read more

    • The Craze for TravellingThe South American Odyssey
      Day 98

      10 am ferry from Hornopiren

      January 5, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      We woke up and had our breakfast at the restaurant opposite the cabin. We reached the harbor just before 10 am. The ferry was already there and the vehicles were getting onto it when we reached. We showed our tickets and were let in. It was a big ferry with a lot of places to sit. The rain had finally stopped by early morning so we went to the outer decks to enjoy the last views of Hornopiren before we left.Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Río Negro, Rio Negro

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