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Munster

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    • Day 73

      CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 8

      June 25, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

      This was a rainy travel day as we made our way up to Limerick by way of Kenmare and Killarney.
      I have to admit that when I hear the town name Killarney it immediately triggers an earworm of Bing Crosby crooning "Christmas in Killarney".
      Perhaps that's fitting as Bing Crosby was absolutely my maternal grandmother's favorite singer.

      Today felt like it could be Christmas time as it was cold and blustery for most of our travels. We enjoyed the change in terrain as the area became more mountainous with constant of green peppered with limestone rocks and lakes. Our drive was along the eastern section of the famous Ring of Kerry which is considered to be one of the most spectacular loops in Ireland.

      We pulled off the road periodically to take photos although the 14°C chilly temps and rain caused us to retreat rather quickly to our car.

      We stopped for a light lunch in Kenmare and we enjoyed a brief walk there.

      We traveled in part of Killarney National Park, but we think we mostly remained on the perimeter. We enjoyed an easy walk up to Torc Falls which reminded us of waterfall walks in Maine and the Pacific NW. Throughout our trip, we have played the game "What state does it feel like we're in now?" Today's answer: The Front Range outside of Fort Collins, Colorado.

      We didn't stop in Killarney. It did seem to be packed with tourists, and we were happy to miss the fray.

      About an hour outside of Limerick, we noticed the land flattened out again.

      We arrived around 4 pm in our Limerick hotel. We have a view of the River Shannon out of our window, and we noticed athletes training for the swimming portion of triathlon training. We haven't explored much of the city yet. This is the land of my maternal grandfather's family, and I'm looking forward to exploring the area.

      We concluded the evening with pizza and beer at a local pub while watching Gaelic football a hybrid of soccer and rugby. It was interesting trying to make sense of the play and scoring.

      Today marks three weeks left until we return home. We're excited to absorb more of Ireland, but we're also feeling the "tug" of home calling to us. It sounds like Portland is finally getting long overdue sun and hot temperatures.

      Sweet dreams from Limerick.
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    • Day 75

      CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 10

      June 27, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

      We woke up to a brief display of clear skies before the weather began to change rather quickly to what felt like a combination of Pacific NW winter rains and Wyoming's strong winds. I've dubbed the weather Hurricane Patrick.

      One of the things we've noticed about the locals is that they tend to be rather apologetic about the weather. They seem perplexed that it should be better this time of year. We reassure them that we are happy to be here and a holiday during inclement weather is better than a day in the office on a sunny day.

      We departed Limerick for an overnight side trip to the Dingle peninsula today, part of the Wild Atlantic Way. We took the Slea Head Drive (Slí Cheann Sléibhe) enroute to the town of Dingle. Along the way we saw film locations for free 1970 movie Ryan's Daughter and one of the Star Wars movies. The old ruins of a tower and the dramatic cliffs and countryside were spectacular.

      At one stop, I took photos of sheep grazing in a pasture. I really did think that one of the larger sheep was going to charge through the fence at me, and I was a bit embarrassed at being intimidated by it. I think I was haunted by reliving childhood memories of benign petting zoos only to get head butts from goats.

      We stopped for a lunch in Dingle before proceeding to some additional coastal sites.
      We stopped by the Gallarus Oratory which is thought to be a 10th or 11th century stone church. The shape of the arch is comparable to an overturned boat, and the arch doesn't have a keystone like other architectural arch structures.

      After departing the Oratory we made our way across the Conor pass. The vistas were quite spectacular despite the gloomy weather. The roads were very narrow at certain points, and they were reliant on the courtesy of travelers to use the turnouts in places where only one lane can pass at a time. Stray sheep along the roadsides added extra navigation challenges. We imagined what it must be like to be driving a tour bus through the area as we were followed by one in other parts of the drive.

      After we made it through the Pass, we arrived at our B&B about 10 minutes further down the road. We were greeted by Mary, the proprietor, who gave us dinner recommendations with a newly opened family restaurant down the road. I never thought I would be seeking the comfort of a wood stove at the end of June, but it was a welcome feature of this quaint restaurant. We struck up a conversation with other guests who are two college friends traveling from Kansas. One was a kindergarten teacher, and we enjoyed sharing travel tips.

      We arrived back at our B&B, and we are enjoying the white noise of the wind and sea beckoning us to sleep. Sweet dreams!
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    • Day 5

      A day with the cliffs

      June 28, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Today was our day trip to the Cliff's of Moher. And by day trip, I mean we left Dublin around 8 am and didn't get back until 9pm. A very long but amazing day. Our tour guide was funny and shared lots of interesting facts. The trip made lots of stops to see small towns and have bathroom breaks. We stopped at Bunratty Castle which apparently hosts nights where you can dress up like nobility and eat ribs all night. I nearly left the tour right there. We ended up spending a couple of hours at the cliffs, then off for lunch in Doolin, then we went to the mini cliffs, and then are harrowing journey along the sea wall that had Jen turning green. Then back home and we call it a day. All the kids spent time sleeping on the bus so we continue to wear them out, which is good.Read more

    • Day 9

      Day 6 Summary

      July 2, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Today was our last day in Killarney. It was "supposed" to be a laid back day. So we decided to walk FOREVER!!! We started off making breakfast at the hotelly place, and then started on our way to Muckross House. We ended up taking the very long way through an off the beaten path which was the right decision. The house was cool and the gardens were amazing.

      Then on the way back we stopped off at the Muckross Abbey, took a bunch of pictures, and then walked back to the hotel. After eating supper together we walked into town to walk around. Today was also the Ring Of Kerry Charity Bike event which brings in around 6000 bicyclists. So it was cool watching all the bikers coming back and cheering for them.

      We walked around downtown Killarney and ended with a trip to Celtic Donuts for a sweet treat. Then back to the hotel to eat supper and do a pre final cleanup so we can hit the road to Belfast via Dublin via Cork early.

      So... what was supposed to be a laid back day ended up being a 30,748 Step Day. The most walking yet. We really need to stop using our laid back days to walk a mini marathon.

      So... big travel day tomorrow and then starts our Belfast adventure.
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    • Day 4

      Dublin to Dungarvan

      July 12, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

      Our first day on our tour has been unbelievably amazing! First of all, there are only eight of us on this tour and each place we visited was out of the way and pretty much without anyone except us. Our driver and guide, Hugh, is fantastic…we seem to be in for an unforgettable time on this southern loop of Ireland.

      Highlights of today:

      1. The Moone Cross, in County Kildare, which is thought to date from the 8th century and is one of the best preserved High Crosses in Ireland
      2. St. James’ Church, Castledermot (Church of Ireland church) with its round tower, the Oath Stone and beautiful church door
      3. The Abby in the town of Graiguenamanagh - The wooden ceiling was constructed without any nails 😮
      4. Kilmogue Dolmen - Oh my goodness! It’s also called Leac an Scail - an exceptional example of a type of megalithic (large stone) tomb known as a Portal Tomb. Two portal stones the tallest stones in the tomb form the entrance to a stone-lined burial chamber, which is roofed by two massive stone slabs, thelarger of which lies at a steep angle. A cairn or low mound of stones would have covered most of the tomb, but the capstone probably
      remained visible.
      The likelihood is that it was built by Neolithic farmers about six thousand years ago for the burial of important members of their community and perhaps also to be a focal point for a group or tribe.

      We are spending the night in Dungarvan. Along time ago the Vikings raided along the shores of Ireland and made their own settlements. Dungarvan, which means “Fort of Garvan” was one of them.

      Lunch = The Waterside Guesthouse
      Dinner = Indian Food at The Indian Ocean in Dungarven
      Drinks = Mick Doyle’s in Graiguenamanagh and The Local in Dungarven
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    • Day 5

      Dungarvan to Clonakilty

      July 13, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

      Our first stop was in Ardmore where St. Declan founded the monastery at Ardmore (Aird Mhór in Irish, meaning "Great Height") prior to the arrival of St. Patrick in Ireland. Ardmore is believed to be one of the oldest monasteries in Ireland.

      The round tower at Ardmore may be of 12th century origin, but could have been built as early as the 10th century.

      Inside the Monastery ruins were two Ogham Stones which had the markings from a medieval alphabet to form a message - before the Roman alphabet was introduced. 😮

      We had Lunch in Kinsale, which is a very cute harbor town, then stopped at a 13th Century Timoleague Friary and explored all of the ruins.

      Finally, we visited Drombeg Stone Circle. It is a circle of 17 standing stones which on excavation showed that there had been an urn burial in the center. It has been dated to between 153BC and 127AD. 😮😮

      We ended our day/night listening to an Irish man from Cork tell stories and sing in a tiny bar next to our hotel - O’Donovan’s in Clonakilty.

      Interesting Fact I learned today: I obviously cannot smell as well as I thought. Everyone, but me, could detect a weird smell from our water glasses at lunch. 🤷‍♀️ I’m going to blame having COVID earlier this summer.
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    • Day 6

      Clonakilty to Kenmare

      July 14, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

      On our way to Mizen head, today, we passed through Skibbereen. Hugh talked about how the Potato Famine killed 10,000 people in the West Cork area. 2,000,000 died overall. 😢

      A Happy Fun fact - The small Skibbereen rowing club, with only a tidal river to practice on, has produced multiple Olympic medals - O’Donovan Brothers being the most well known. I watched a YouTube video about them tonight - “The Irish Rowing Brothers Who Shocked the World” It was fantastic!!

      Mizen Head and Barley Cove were absolutely stunning. It was good to see and smell the ocean. Mizen Head is the most south-west point of Ireland and we got a great workout hiking to the different lookouts.

      We stopped for lunch in Bantry and ate at Box of Frogs 🐸 Yummy!!!!
      Then, we cut across the Beara Peninsula and drove the switchbacks through the Caha mountains over Healy Pass. The road and pass reminded me of the types of mountain passes you see in the Tour de France.

      Along the road there were sheep everywhere, spray painted in different color designs to identify them to the farmers. Beautiful!!!

      I can’t believe the wonderful weather we’ve had! So, so fortunate!

      Dinner 🥘 and drinks 🍹 from Foley’s on the street across from our Guesthouse, Davitt’s, with the sounds of live music from all the bars on the road. 🎶
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    • Day 7

      Kenmare to Dingle

      July 15, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

      We drove over Moll’s Gap
      Towards the McGillacuddy’s Reeks (mountains) into Killarney National Park and Lakes. After a short hike to Torc Waterfall, we visited Ross Castle. 🏰 A guide took us up the mainly original spiral staircase and explained the different rooms and what life was like living in the castle. Going down the staircase took some concentration and control over not really looking straight down 😮

      The rest of the way was the Dingle Peninsula!!!👍🏻🙂 - We had lunch at Sammy’s on Inch Beach and then drove by so many pastures holding sheep 🐑 or cows 🐄 divided by stone fences covered by green shrubbery.

      Before we checked in to our Bed and Breakfast, we drove around Slea Head…WOW! It’s an amazing road along the cliff side with incredible views of the Blasket Islands. We took some time at Gallorus Oratory, which is the best preserved early Christian church in Ireland. It was built between the 7th and 8th century with dry-stone corbelling, using techniques first developed by Neolithic tomb makers. It was perfectly constructed - Amazing!!!

      We are staying at the Greenmount House B&B for the next two nights. 🙂 Tomorrow, I’m looking forward to meandering around Dingle.
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    • Day 8

      Dingle

      July 16, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 70 °F

      This was our day to wander around and enjoy Dingle. What an amazing little town on Dingle Bay with its quaint streets and picturesque storefronts. We explored, we shopped, and we ate. 🙂 I have never seen a place with so many restaurants and pubs - 36 restaurants and 50 pubs!! Needless to say, we have had the best food here. Last night we ate at Ashe’s Bar Seafood and tonight was Lord Baker’s. Yum!!!

      The perfect way to end our time in Dingle was a few post dinner hours at O’Sullivan’s Courthouse Pub listening to traditional Irish 🎶
      The owner of the pub played guitar while another played the Uilleann pipes and flutes. It was a highlight of this trip. 🙂💕
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    • Day 9

      Dingle to Killaloe

      July 17, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

      Today was our longest day and warmest day. The humidity here had us all sweating.

      We started off by taking a ferry across the Shannon Estuary and drove to the Cliffs of Moher. Now I understand why so many people want to see them. 😮 🌊 Visually spectacular!!! The Cliffs of Moher sit astride the weird landscape of the Burren on one side and the Wild Atlantic Ocean on the other. They rise to a height of over 700ft at O’Brien’s Tower and run along the coast of Clare for almost 8 miles. Crazy cool!

      Hugh then zipped us off to see Poulnabrone Dolman (Portal Tomb) that was constructed 5000 years ago. I can’t quite wrap my brain around being next to something so old. The Burren landscape setting with the tomb sitting on top was spectacular!

      We are now across the Shannon River from the town of Killaloe. Tomorrow, we’re taking a river cruise and visiting one of Ireland’s old whiskey distilleries. Alan says he needs picture proof of me tasting some of the whiskey 🥃, but it’s not my type of drink. I’ll see if I can make myself do it. 😂

      My first goal of tonight is to pray our hotel room cools down so I can sleep 🛌 😴 💤
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Munster, An Mhumhain, مونستر, Манстэр, Мънстър, Cúige Mumhan, مونستەر, Манстер, Munsteri provints, Còigeamh Mumhan, Queiggey Mooan, מנסטר, マンスター, მანსტერი, Мунстер, 먼스터, Momonia, Mansteris, Munster Séng, Momonîn, منستر, Munsteri, مونسٹر, 芒斯特省

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