Italy
Provincia di Salerno

Here you’ll find travel reports about Provincia di Salerno. Discover travel destinations in Italy of travelers writing a travel blog on FindPenguins.

113 travelers at this place:

  • Day12

    Up to Ravello

    December 31, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Ravello is about 4 km and 500 m up, a good aerobic walk! So I walked while Joe took the bus. We met up top and after the obligatory cappucino, we visited the Cathedral (some beautiful mosaics) and the Villa Rufolo (an old hodge podge of buildings from the XII century onward, bought by a rich guy and restored in the 19th century— the main attraction was the VIEWS!!!). Absolutely gorgeous views from up there.

    Trying to get good information on bus options down was nearly impossible, since it is New Year’s Eve. So a group of 8 piled into a cab and in a few minutes we were back in Amalfi.

    All of the restaurants are booked with gala dinners, so we have found a little enoteca that will feed us some dinner as long as we are out by 9:30. We hope to see the fireworks from the seaside promenade, but I fear that thousands of others will have the same idea!

    Wishing everyone a very Happy New Year!
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  • Day11

    Moved over to Amalfi

    December 30, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    A 20 mile trip from Sorrento to Amalfi takes 90 minutes on the bus — but don’t think you’d get there any faster driving it yoursef. The road twists and turns and twists again, along the coast. Since we already had visited Positano from Sorrento, we just stayed on the bus all the way to the charming, but VERY busy, town of Amalfi. If this is the off-season, I hate to think what it looks like in summer, but I am sure there is a burst of tourists between Christmas and New Years.

    We’re in an old hotel on the main square, with a view over the 12th century duomo (cathedral). That became a less attractive location when we learned there will be an all night party in the square tomorrow. (There’s another folkloric concert on the steps of the cathedral as I write, but it ends at 7 pm!). I knew about and was looking forward to the fireworks on the water, but had no idea that the concerts would begin after that. I should have brought my ear plugs from my Camino bag, I guess. Well, we hadn’t planned to do much on Jan. 1 anyway.

    This afternoon we visited an old paper-making factory, and by old, I mean 13th century old. Paper made of cotton fibers, not wood pulp. We saw the original pulp-making machine, as well as the 15th century newer version, as well as the 18th century one, all powered by water. They coated it in gelatin made from rabbit to make it less absorbent. And then hung it to dry for months!
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  • Day15

    Osteria dei Sapori -- Salerno

    January 3 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    So if you dream of eating in a non-touristy, small, family-run osteria in Italy, this is the place for you. In a 7-table place, with food options written on a piece of paper, we were the only foreigners over the two hours we were there. The entire operation took place in one small room. Dad was the cook, mom his assistant, daughter did everything else (except wash the dishes—there was a woman over in the corner continuously washing and drying). The food was excellent, the family so hospitable, and even with the most expensive bottle of wine at 25 euros, our bill was 80 euros. And that was with two courses each, and one dessert.

    Very nice way to end our stay here.
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  • Day13

    Architecture, Music, and a Hike

    January 1 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    What a very nice way to start 2019– first, a visit to the cathedral (unfortunately the stunning romanesque facade was not matched with a similar interior — on orders of some king, the whole inside got a baroque make-over). St. Andrew is buried here, and his remains are reported to undergo a similar annual miracle as San Gennaro in Naples — instead of his blood liquifying, it is some substance that oozes out of the container of his remains. Rather grotesque, actually, but I get the role that faith plays in these things and in the lives of the congregants.

    Then a surprise — a chamber orchestra playing all sorts of music in a free concert inside the basilica. Our favorites were the various opera pieces — all very well known, from Carmen, Merry Widow, Granada, a few more. We enjoyed it a lot.

    From there, time to walk. Up, up, up again, just as high as yesterday, but to another town, Pontone, which looks across a gorge at Ravello. In Pontone, luckily, we found an unexceptional pizzeria open, so Joe could sit and eat while I went on to the Torre dello Ziro, and up to the ruined church of Sant Eustacio. Unfortunately, the site was closed —I would really have liked to see the apse up close.

    Back down just as the sun was setting — time to think about dinner options. Lots of restaurants seem to be closed, but there are crowds in the square outside our room again, enjoying more folklore. I am pretty sure there will not be late night concerts, at least I am hoping that’s the case!
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  • Day12

    Happy 2019!

    December 31, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    Very good dinner in the little enoteca, though we could have stopped eating after the antipasti. But I guess it is a night for wretched excess.

    It is a very good thing we squeezed in a few hours’ nap before the fireworks, because the concert in the square went on till 4 or 5. I didn’t even bother to look at my watch when it finally ended, I was just so relieved to hear the silence.

    At about 11:30, we awoke to the sound of traditional music, and followed a long procession of music-makers in traditional dress out to the beach. Then the fireworks (they were super!), with a return procession to the cathedral. At that point, the traditional music gave way to loud loud loud. First a live band (I was so happy to hear someone say what sounded like “last song” in Italian, only to realize that it was just the last live song and. a DJ had taken over). Though I wouldn’t say I reallly enjoyed the music, it was fun to see the square filled with so many others who were.

    I woke up around 8, to another day of brilliant sunshine, and was surprised to see that though the light and sound equipment was still up, the square was spotless. Amalfi takes its public places very seriously.
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  • Day7

    To Sorrento

    December 26, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    We moved over to Sorrento for the next few days and will visit Pompeii and Herculaneum from here. Much easier and less hectic.

    So by 11, we were in our hotel. The room wouldn’t be ready for a few hours, and since it was a gorgeous day, we hopped on a bus to Positano. It’s the first major town on the Amalfi Coast. Wow wow wow. Just gorgeous. Nothing much to do except walk and eat, and luckily we enjoy both those things.

    Tomorrow Pompeii.
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  • Day15

    Paestum!!! Wow!!!

    January 3 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    One half hour, 2.90 euros each way, and the Regionale train takes you to Paestum, the ruins of a Greek city from about 5th century BC. Three large temples remain intact, with the residential area, forum, baths,theater in ruins. One of the temples is roped off, but you can walk throuh the other two. Amazing.

    We had bright sunny, cold weather (in fact, on the way back to the train, a few snowflakes started to fall). Crowds were very moderate —two big groups of American college students, one tour bus of Italians, and about 50 others like Joe and I, straggling along on our own.

    The museum had many artifacts from graves, and some of the painted grave slabs themselves, including one that appears to be quite famous, The Diver. Lots of urns, statues of gods and goddesses, with very nice information panels, in both Italian and English for a change.There was a short video about the Allies´ WWII invasion, Operation Avalanche, which took place near Paestum. The Brits brought their own archaeologist, and while constructing an airstrip, an ancient burial site was found (by ancient, I mean really ancient, like Iron Age). He documented it all, excavated and tagged all artifacts. Turned them over to the Napples Archaeological authorities at the end of the war. The film ended with a comment along the lines of — it is a treasure for humanity that the British realized that preserving ancient history was just as important as winning the war.

    This is the end of the planned trip. When I was buying the plane tickets, it seemed like a shame to get on a plane in Rome without spending some time there. So we have a hotel reservation for four nights, an old Michelin Rome guide from our 1995 trip with the kids, and a recent 36 Hours in Rome article. Just hoping to have good weather for walking and short lines in front of whatever we decide to visit.
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  • Day14

    Moving on to Salerno

    January 2 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Salerno is not exactly a highly renowned tourist stop, but it is the easternmost point of the Amalfi Coast and a convenient way to get up to Rome. And there are some very highly recommended Greek temples about an hour from here, so we decided to make Salerno a stop. It has a huge port and an ancient centro historico. The Allies invaded Italy here, but unfortunately the small museum documenting the event was closed.

    The bus ride from Amalfi to Salerno was another one of those 90 minute rides to go 25 kms. This time we had several points where two buses met head on and there was simply no way for them to maneuver. It involved backing up, stopping traffic, and eventually squeezing by with only inches to spare. The ride was beautiful, but there is no way in the world I would want to drive it — the bus was scary enough.

    In Salerno, we found our little B and B in the old town and were out and about in plenty of time for lunch. At Mamma Rosa’s, we found ourselves in with lots of regular diners. A very popular place, Mamma Rosa is still there, and her quote on the wall is “I love cooking more than anything except my children.” Watching her interact with what must have been her grandkids gave credence to that quote.

    Afternoon was spent at the amazing 11th century cathedral, where the apostle Matthew is buried (the apostle Andrew is in Amalfi, so this must be a popular area for apostles). The mosaics were gorgeous.

    Then to the archaeological museum, where the 2nd century BC bronze head of Apollo was the standout.

    We are in a weird little place, picked because it is about 4 minutes from Novella Fitness, where I was able to use the elliptical for a mere 7 euros! Dinner in another totally crammed and popular place, Irys, where they had just run out of red wine (in Italy?!) but the food was very good.
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  • Day26

    Day 26 - Positano Arrival!

    October 5, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    Wow! Positano is stunning.

    After checking out of our bed and breakfast in Anacapri, we caught the (wrong) bus down to the Capri marina (followed by a taxi to the right place) to catch our quick 25 minute ferry to Positano on the Amalfi Coast. After we arrived at the Positano port, I saw our arrival message from our host, telling us to take a taxi or bus to the B&B. I looked the address up on Apple Maps and it said 0.3 miles, 7 minute walk...

    Tim gets a quick shot of espresso (bad idea!!) and we begin the walk (with about 30 pounds on our backs). Well...this 0.3 mile walk is essentially a hike up 400+ steep steps into a completely vertical cliff in the blazing sun. With no water. And without the phone navigation working, so I was pretty sure we were also lost. BUT...then we saw the B&B sign at our entrance...we made it!!

    Our awesome host gave us some water and let us settle in. This is the best place we have stayed by far. Our view of the cliffs and the buildings and the water is amazing. Of the 4 rooms in the B&B, ours is the only one with a private terrace. We also have a sitting area on the main terrace. The views are incredible.

    We caught our breath, changed into our bathing suits, and walked down the 400 (now easy) steps to the Fornillo beach. We had an awesome lunch on the beach, then got some chairs and an umbrella. I started a new book, Tim went for a quick swim, and we laid out in the sun for a couple of hours. We returned to our room to relax for awhile and to rinse off. Then we had some wine on our beautiful terrace and got ready for dinner. Our dinner was at a beautiful restaurant on the side of a cliff (as everything is here) - a bottle of Amalfi white wine, a pear and walnut salad to split, sea bass for Tim, and clam pumpkin ravioli for me, followed by tiramisu and decaf espresso. Amazing.

    Now, back to my book!! Goodnight!!
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  • Day270

    Field by the River Sele, SE of Eboli

    March 23, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    It was a change of scene for us today. Coming away from the coast we entered the realms of raw mountain territory, leaving behind the Prickly Pear cacti and Palms, for pines, Broom and bare winter trees. Following one of the many deep gorges, we took the path the River Castrocucco had forged through the rocky Alpine scenery, dotted with large individual dwellings that reminded us very much of Austria. There was even the remnants of snow on the peaks of a few prominent mountains.

    The sun was strong and it was over 20°C outside, even several hundred meters up in the hills. We are really enjoying seeing Spring unfold with white and pink blossom or fresh new leaves budding on some trees. Vibrant yellow butterflies caught the light and soaked in the warmth as they flitted across our path.

    We'd aimed to cover 170km but after 130km we saw signs telling us 'strada chiuso per frana ecceto residenti'. Vicky knew it said the road was closed for 'frana' except for residents and just as she translated the mystery word, we rounded a corner and were faced with a very impressive visual translation of what the sign meant. Concrete blocks and large red and white plastic bollards blocked our path. Beyond them, the road had split and a large section was over 40cm away down the hill. We weren't quite sure what the sign intended residents to do to avoid the landslide, but we had no alternative but to turn round and find another way through.

    Instead of staying at the town stopover we'd programmed in, Will spotted access to a grassy field next to a river. The place, like so many others in Italy had been used as a dumping ground, there was a matress, clothes bags, rubble, tyres and bottles strewn all around and even a cardboard box containing a black bin liner emitting 'L'Eau de dead animal'. We've had to learn to switch off to these sights to a certain extent and without them the place really was beautiful, so we decided to stay. Instead of looking at the rubbish, we focussed on the white lilly flower in the hedgerow, the sun shining through the new Lindon leaves and sparkling on the light blue water as it gushed over its grey stone bed. There was a sign on the ground warning of sudden large waves due to the hydro electric dam upstream. We'd seen a green pipe travelling several kilometres up a mountain on our journey here and have frequently noticed broad river beds with just a trickle of water flowing. We wonder if these are all possible courses to let out water used for power generation.

    As evening came on bats began to dart here and there near the canopy of the taller trees. It is the first time we have noticed them here in Italy and they were a welcome addition to this tranquil spot.
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You might also know this place by the following names:

Provincia di Salerno, Salerne, Salerno

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