Bikepacking Cusco to Santiago

Let me start by saying that in Peru you CAN take a drivers test...but you can also simply buy a driving license. The latter seems to be what everyone does, considering the driving style here.

Yesterday I learned the hard way that when it comes to cycling in Peru it seems that you have the choice between two different evils:

1. Lots of nasty exhaust fumes, honking, and the occasional crazy driver on the main roads

2. Being chased, barked at and scared half to death by packs of wild dogs on the gravel roads

Considering this, the main road seems to be the safest place to cycle as it at least has a shoulder and not too much traffic. And almost no dogs.

But since I didn't know all of this yet, my first day turned out to be rather adventurous. Including dogs and 6 km of half pushing, half carrying my (37 ish kg) bike along abandoned railroad tracks.

In the end I opted for the main road, which is manageable as long as you dress accordingly (picture 4).

I finished the day earlier than planned and set up camp at a volunteering Hacienda south of Urcos (picture 6-7). Which by the way, is home to no less than 16 (!!) Dogs!

Some of the volunteers had planned for a trip to the rainbow Mountain today, so I decided that the road could wait and joined them instead 🥳

Rainbow Mountain wasn't really on my list of sights as I had heared it was usually absolutely overcrowded. But since we went later than the tourist companies (arriving at the mountain at 1pm), we only saw people walking down while we walked up from 4500m to 5300m and had the summit almost entirely to ourselves, save some alpacas and some locals selling snacks.

And boy, what a view! 🤩
Happy to have stayed that extra day!

But tomorrow the cycle continues, further east towards lake titicaca, which I hope to reach in 4 days 🚴‍♀️

🧠Learnings: Always carry an emergency stone or stick to defend youself against stray dogs!

🌟Highlights: Great people, colorful mountains and the coolest Alpacas in town! 🦙🕶En savoir plus