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Lisa AtkinsonLisa Atkinson
SatelitSunting laluan
mengembara di 20 negara. Baca lagi Ambleside, United Kingdom
  • PengembaraCamino de Santiago
    Hari 25

    I did it!

    28 April, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Out the door for sunrise.

    Although you wouldn’t know it. Fog everywhere.

    I venture back to the Camino. Out of the mist I see a female pilgrim overtake, briefly asking if I’m okay because I’m limping.

    I only see a few others for the first hour.

    The roads a little creepy with the fog. Passing an electricity station, I think, the frazzle of light rain hitting the lines cause a buzzing.

    The mist is a might fine metaphor for my final day on the Camino. Symbolising the not knowing of what comes next, just being aware of the present.

    I am still unsure as to what the Camino has become for me. It’s certainly more than the reasons I set out for. The destination has become part of the journey, for me.

    The pain arrives, as I’m in the woodland. And now more pilgrims are coming.

    But it’s okay. It’s about me now. And I will get there.

    And I keep thinking of how it will be over soon, and try to keep present of all that’s around me. Mostly aware of the fog.

    The sun starts creeping through the fog. And it casts a sepia glow, highlighting shadows of the buildings up ahead in Santiago.

    I enter the city. It’s not the most charming of homestretches. Mostly urban sprawl. But I keep determined. And I arrive on the cobbled streets that take me somehow up to the Cathedral. But the arrows have gone now, and I while I start to see the turrets, my mind starts to work out if I am going to the right spot, will I end up behind it?

    There’s no grand entrance, arriving this side, you just become aware you’re here.

    Tears form. And I have a moment. Suddenly aware I did it.

    I am here.

    And it is grand. There’s a sense of awe for sure.

    I head back to the cloisters to take it all in.

    Make sure Hubba gets his view too.

    While I’m there. I see two people from the Camino.

    The man who was helping everyone with the locked toilet at Albergue Albor, 2 nights ago. And Mike and his wife. I give them both a hug and take a picture.

    While sitting. A man comes over to chat, he’s done the French way. And he talks about how meaningful the Camino has become, and you can tell he’s emotional. He helps me find my way to the pilgrim office.

    He makes sure I get in okay. I register and get my certificate, in honour of my mum.

    I then find a place for an orange juice before heading to my hotel.

    I take a long snooze and then head out to see the Basillica. I don’t spent too long as it’s heaving with people ready for the mass. I resolve I’m coming back tomorrow to have the time with the space myself. And to head out the door with the reverse alpha and omega, signifying my transformation.

    I grab a lil pizza and sit outside. Twas cold, but I had a sangria to celebrate.

    And then I drifted back to the hotel.

    Where I dreamt vividly that my Camino wasn’t over and I still need to walk…    Baca lagi

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  • PengembaraCamino de Santiago
    Hari 24

    One more step - Day 19

    27 April, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    I’m one of the last to leave the albergue.

    But that’s because everyone’s advised me to book my Santiago lodgings asap as it’s getting busy. It feels a bit presumptuous for my liking but I do so.

    I also look at the map to see how far away the Camino is from the main road as well as elevation. I decide if my foot is too much I will head back to the road for the bus.

    At this point I know I’ve done everything I can do all I can do to make it.

    And I’m not too sure now why completely the Camino means as much as it does. It has gone beyond the original reasons for taking it on and something has taken root. Perhaps devotion to something outside myself, a commitment to transformation or completion. I don’t know. I just know I want to get there by my own merit.

    And today I want to shave off as my kms with my own feet.

    So I set off in the rain. The busy road making me acutely aware of how lonely this feels.

    My pace is slow. And I’m aware of those behind trying to overtake me. I come up against hills with roots and stones as a path. I go slower not wanting to jar my foot again.

    I continue up. I think about stopping at some cafes but I say no, wanting to gain as much distance while I can.

    Although I do stop for a coffee. I realise my credentials got wet. This upsets me. But I decide they should be weathered afterall.

    The sun comes out and layers need to come off. But I’m still painfully far from where I need to be. A 2 hour walk has already become a 3 hour one. I am fed up. My body hurts. My feet hurt and I also can’t sit down without intense pain thanks to the bike. So there’s no position which is comfortable. I can only put one step in front of the other and be proud of any distance I do, closing in on Santiago.

    I decide to start the Camino podcast. As a relevant distraction to the length of time ahead of me.

    I am half tempted to try for Santiago. Worried about what could go wrong between now and tomorrow morning.

    But I arrive at the town and head to the albergue instead, after going to the church as you reach the town. My penultimate day of stamps.

    I am emotional at the thought of finishing, but I remain feeling a little weary of tomorrow - as if I can’t quite believe I’ll be done tomorrow and this is over. A 20 day memory, over.

    And what will await me on the other side of the Camino…    Baca lagi

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  • PengembaraCamino de Santiago
    Hari 23

    Plan B - Day 18

    26 April, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    I wake up.

    My foot is slightly better, maybe. But not 22km to Padrón, okay. I grab my rucksack and get it tagged and ready to be picked up by 9am.

    I then head out to the bike store. And try the app to unlock the bike. It’s only €16 for the rental to padron but I have to put a deposit of €100 down, so was nervous.

    I try it out in the car park nearby. And I get the electric on it to work once cycling. I then commit to taking it and walking it out to a footpath.

    I hear a shout “Hey, UK Girl!” - it was the woman I was talking to at the hot spring. Literally the only other person I spoke to yesterday other than the physio and albergue host. She’s ask how my foot is and I say I am gonna take the bike to which her and her friend cheerlead me on. I felt empowered that little bit more leaving, despite taking off in the wrong direction. But all good a local flagged me immediately and turned me around.

    I took to the bike quite quickly. Although as expected the amount of pilgrims made the route more tricker as there was much more braking than ideal. But without a helmet I went much slower than what possible.

    And I was fine with the bumps of the forest track. Even fine standing and cycling for a while. There was just one moment where I person decided to not go the way they’d decided to when letting me through, where braking caused me to jaunt and almost fall over. But another pilgrim caught and re-stabilised me.

    A few times I lost momentum and other pilgrims would help start me off by pushing.

    It was on the whole and enjoyable experience. Going faster meant I missed a few yellow arrows, but locals were quick to point out how to get back to the Camino. Including a man who stopped his car to get back out.

    Just before Padron I asked Carlos (the guy who had the bikes) what code I use at the drop off point - although he told me what it was he also said he’d be happy to pick it up from my albergue. Meaning I had the bike for another 6km.

    With this info I grabbed a quick coffee and went into the church at Padron to see the legendary stone that sits beneath the pulpit.

    With rain looming I set off for the last bit to the albergue. But rain set in before. I stopped under a tree and changed into my Mac. I also had a quick stop 6 mins away during a torrential downpour, where of the other 2 people in there, also happened to be the UK man now living in Portugal Julie and I met back in Acora. We discussed how the rest of the Camino went for both as they had taken the spiritual and litoral after Caminha. We also discussed foot pain management and traded lemon cake for painkillers.

    A gap in the rain gave me the chance to head off. I had a bit of a hard time mounting the bike outside the church and almost fell over but managed. And it wasn’t long before I arrived. And just as I did Carlos arrived to take the bike back. And as I entered the Albergue, my rucksack was waiting for me. I couldn’t believe how easy (with all the elements) the day had ended up being. I’d of thought something at least was going to go wrong, but no. It’s as if the Camino is willing me to succeed.

    I have a few chance conversations with other pilgrims. All who are going on to Santiago tomorrow, unlike me who is splitting it and going to the town just before. About 7km out with the hope of getting there in the morning on Sunday.

    I take a shower. Make my bed and go to bed relatively early. Not knowing if I’m taking a bus part way or walking to Milladoiro tomorrow.

    But I do go to bed being immensely proud at my attempt and achievement in continuing the Camino…    Baca lagi

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  • PengembaraCamino de Santiago
    Hari 22

    HOPE - Day 17

    25 April, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I sleep-in.

    Till 8:30. But apparently that’s kinda a thing.

    I am annoyed I’m not preparing to leave.

    But I’m committed to staying off my foot all day in hopes it relieves the pain when standing on it.

    I use my morning researching you tube to look for tips, advice, stretches and spend so many hours trying to do DIY physio on myself.

    Yolanda checks on me and brings me a coffee up.

    She also tells me of a physio she knows who will ring to see if he can help.

    She tells me to go at 4.

    I hobble with my pole 200metres. He sees me within 15mins. Spanish, and we translate via app.

    10 mins he’s made it better. Not fixed it but better. The problem was in ankle and between my big toe and the rest. He charges me no money for this.

    There’s such a cluster of kindness happening it’s quite overwhelming. It really is like everyone is just really behind you succeeding.

    On the way out I quite literally stumble by one of the towns hot springs fountains. I thought what’s the hell, may as well as dipped my legs in and after in cold. That really did seem to help.

    And I talked briefly to a woman from the states also enjoying the springs. We chatted my injury for a while and then I took off, going via the shop to get prepackaged food for dinner - not taking chances now.

    On my return Yolanda tells me it’s possible to rent e-bikes from her friend. It requires an app. This app is not very good nor user friendly, but I am determined this is my plan b.

    I go back out, get a small bag to put my essentials in and arrange for my bags to be forwarded on.

    And head for an early night. Hopefully tomorrow we roll…    Baca lagi

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  • PengembaraCamino de Santiago
    Hari 21

    Broken - Day 17

    24 April, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Out the door for 8.

    Not as early as I had hoped due to not sleeping well.

    But out the door straight on to the Camino.

    Feeling a slight pain in my left foot and calf pain in right leg.

    Felt a bit frustrated without my pole now.

    And dozens and dozens of pilgrims are overtaking me. This is fine. I know I have the time. Plus most are walking without rucksacks and started 2 days ago.

    The walk is relatively quite flat which is helpful, but I do start to need to the toilet. Holding out hope for a cafe soon.

    The pain is growing in my foot.

    The couple from yesterday catch up with me. I tell them about my foot and they lend me their poles. I tell them to go on ahead and I will give them the poles back on Caldas but they remain with me.

    I skid slightly on a rock and it jars my foot and a sharp pain happens. And then it feels as if there’s a crackle sensation happening in my foot and the pain worsens.

    Natalie tells me she has something for the pain. And we stop and use gel and take ibuprofen.

    I move on. They find friends from day before I walk on. But Ross comes back to say they will stop at a cafe in less than a KM. And to find them there.

    I do. But the pain is more. And from here I may not get another chance to get help. I check Uber. Nothing. I ring two taxis - they put their phone down on me without Spanish.

    So I ask at the cafe. They are so helpful. They give me ice and ring a taxi for me. They come collect me and take my bag for me. And the driver is a female who knows Portuguese 🙏🏼

    A Danish man also consoles me. A 100km is the pilgrimage and you’ve already done plus 200km. Camino is just as much about acceptance than the challenge.

    Words I need to hear as I cry for the second time.

    I arrive at my albergue. I am welcomed with a beautiful stamp, a sangria and a donation of poles from past pilgrims.

    I also am given ice packs for my feet. And when telling her I’m worried about my cough keeping people awake she just says she will move me to a different room. A dorm with no one in. Not only this she gets me sports tape and looks up a tutorial on you tube to dress my foot.

    Meanwhile Ross and Natalie have arrived and have asked if I need anything. I say a brace and sports tape. They FaceTime me from intersport and a pharmacy with options.

    And then meet me opposite the albergue. I grab them an ice cream as thanks - even though they reiterate the Camino is about precisely this.

    They also gift me cooling gel and an ankle brace.

    I hobble to find some tea. But also still majorly nervous and cautious of eating made food I eat a few mouthfuls and nothing more.

    Tomorrow I will likely stay to rest the foot . Unless a miracle happens overnight…    Baca lagi

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  • PengembaraCamino de Santiago
    Hari 20

    Old Town - Day 16

    23 April, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    A lie in of 8am.

    How things change.

    Today was a gift to myself to explore the historic side to the Camino. And Pontevedra is the second most important city after Santiago in Spain.

    The Sanctuary of Apparitions was a road of from where I was staying. So I headed here and I was greeted by a nun. Who tried talking to me in Spanish, I didn’t receive it all. But I went into the chapel and sat alone, and then climbed the stairs to the second floor for where the historical apparitions took place.

    There I sat/kneeled and had quiet contemplation for a while. Not fussed about who came in while my eyes were closed.

    After this I went to the Basilica. A beautiful church. And was there for when they opened the massive front doors.

    I sat in front of a beautiful panelled wall by myself and again.m sat quietly.

    I wandered to get my stamp. Quickly realising I would like one from the sanctuary of apparitions, I returned to get one too.

    I then walked further up to the Old Town. Grabbed, hopefully, a last pack of blisters blasters (which I swear have a premium on due to pilgrims).

    Little ice-cream for exploring. And then lunch, a cute place, Momo Fucker, that does burger etc - but the name was better than the food.

    I headed to the Franscian monastery but this was closed. But I did sit a while, people watching.

    Ok the way home a Czech 🇨🇿 female and her partner called out to me noticing my water shoes and asked if I was walking in them. I said no but we had an interesting conversation with Ross 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 knowing precisely where I came from based on my accent - which was a first.

    We decided to rejoin up for dinner. Where it was Ross’s birthday and went to the same place I went to the night before. And shared tapas.

    We then headed off respectively for an early night with both of us having 21kms ahead of us the next day.

    Little did I know how important these two were to become…    Baca lagi

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  • PengembaraCamino de Santiago
    Hari 19

    Up! - Day 15

    22 April, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    I was nervous about today.

    The chatter you hear is that there is a lot of an ups and downs. But with everything being relative, how difficult is it?

    I was out again for 8. Starting out with Victoria. Our pace was relatively strong. And we overtook a few.

    On the way out we stopped as we noticed three caterpillars hanging down off some trees. Assuming to start the process of becoming caterpillars.

    The imagery wasn’t lost of me. The symbol of transformation while walking this spiritual path. Do I feel different? I’m not sure whether I’ll know for sure till I’m back, but lessons haven’t certainly been learnt. And perhaps lies I’ve told myself revealed.

    A km or so out. We stopped for a coffee, inviting the German woman we were just in front of to join us. And the Latvian also joined us a little later. It was here I realised how many pilgrims were now on the trail, at least 60-70 people must have passed us while taking a 20minute breakfast.

    I let her and Victoria go ahead and I’ll catch them up. I didn’t want to keep pace, especially on a day of hills. I never saw them again.

    But I did bond with a woman, Sandra 🇪🇸/ 🇵🇹, while getting up the first main steep section. I didn’t think we’d walk much further together as she didn’t know a word of English. But we managed to converse in portugues and she was such an excited creature, at everything. Every flowers, view, animal, mural, person…

    She was a joy to be around. And she loved taking pictures, it became a joke that she was my Camino director!

    We had the same ish pace, or at least hers was a very comfortable one for me. And so we walked on together, chatting in Portuguese. And taking the hills as they come, well we complained, but we did it.

    The hills were tough. I can’t quite remember doing an incline as steep as that which we did yesterday. And it wasn’t just one time. I believe a minimum of three times, we had to ascend.

    Yet the trail was one of the most beautiful for sure. The forest trails were stunning.

    We had a quick lunch break. I got a natural orange juice. Sandra wasn’t happy about learning we had another 2 hours to go at least.

    The men I met yesterday recognised me and shouted their hellos.

    After a popular post in the Camino Portuguese FB group, about a kind man who sells Camino wares, close ish to Pontevedra, took a pilgrim back to an albergue when learning the closest was still some 10km away. I looked out for him, and ended buying a necklace. Hoping it reminds me I can do difficult things.

    There was another complementary route choice or take original. Lesley told me to take the left (complementary) and it wasn’t much a choice considering the hot sun. Didn’t stop Sandra complaining of just how much she felt everyone was lying of how much there was left to go till Pontevedra.

    But finally we cleared the forest/riverside walk and entered the city. We had to go under a city bridge, where I was fascinated by a rat swimming. Sandra was less fascinated and more scared and ran ahead.

    Walking into the city together I realised I was talking porrtugues for at least 5 hours. Which was suprising, I hadn’t realised I could do that. Although tragedy, I realised my back zip on ruck sack hand not been closed properly and my purse had slipped out. Caught that, thankfully. But gave Sandra my stick while I re-hitched up my rucksack. But she pressed on it and bent and broke it.

    So long pole. You served me well.

    We split up, swapping contact details. And then I headed into the city to where I’m staying.

    I chat with a Belarus Peregrina 🇧🇾 , living in Russia, although she brought up very quickly how she doesn’t like living there and how having to travel to here due to her being Belarus meant travelling for 2 days.

    We then notice and visit the sanctuary of the pilgrims together, getting a stamp, and learning of the pilgrim mass at 7:30. We agree to go back then. I also bump into Laura, who I met the day before when entering a small church. She was wondering about staying or walking on to Combarro.

    I told her to stay. She laughed and said maybe I was her sign. As I got my two credentials stamped I explained to her why and she thanked me for sharing that. Laura then followed me to my lodgings, and if there was space, she would stay.

    They was a room and because she turned up with me they gave it to her for less.

    We showered, changed. Laura went on ahead. I’m decided if I wasn’t doing the spiritual route, I would take a rest day in Pontevedra instead. As I had hoped to reach it much earlier to visit the historic and pilgrim specific sites, but we arrived just a little after 4.

    I reached the sanctuary a little before. But on the way saw a shop that Grainne had recommended, (tiger tiger situation) and managed to find myself a collapsible walking stick. Not a proper hiking one, but something to test out at least.

    I got the tail end of the normal mass. Sandra arrived and we sat three rows from the front. At half 7 many more pilgrims arrived. I saw the NY lady, the 2 seperate German ladies from the Camino I’ve seen over past 2 days.

    The Camino village had returned somewhat.

    The mass and pilgrim blessing was special. And after I returned from my seat, I genuinely prayed. I felt caught in the spirit of the pilgrims before me and the pilgrims yet to come. And the emotions, questions and hope, all were walking with. And tears formed. I locked eyes with Laura and she nodded her support in the moment.

    Afterwards, Laura and I headed to a restaurant recommended by our host, Bar Estrella. And we invited a US peregrino to join us. For the first time on the trip, I drank wine. We shared some delicious tapas. And I had again the chance to talk about my mum. I also managed to shock Laura by saying I’d visited her state, Montana, and how that again links back to my mum and her encouraging me to travel to Brazil, where of course I’d meet Maggie.

    John thanked us at least 4 times for inviting him, saying it was a highlight for him. Apparently so far not many folks had invited him for dinner - but then he hasn’t been staying in albergues. Which I’m sure makes a difference. We then walked back against the moonlit streets of Pontevedra.

    For a day I was dreading. And even kept my earphones out for the first time thinking I may need them to push through. It ended up being such a special day, a hard day, but special and a true testament to the Camino’s spirit. Never knowing what lies ahead, just taking the first step and being open to what comes…

    And Laura was right. It’s odd how despite all the pilgrims you do end up bumping into the few select ones you’ve connected with.

    Body Check: heat rash on back - cough is a little worse - arches on feet, hurting - body stiffness

    Highlights:
    O no timed showers
    O Pilgrim Mass    Baca lagi

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  • PengembaraCamino de Santiago
    Hari 18

    The Little Pilgrim that Could… Day 14

    21 April, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Exactly 2 weeks on the Camino today.

    Feels so much longer than that. And I’m back to the longer distances, just. 18km seems to be my limit before getting pain/blisters etc.

    So I’m trying to keep to that.

    I woke up early. And as planned knowing it was a min 4 hour work my plan was to be out by 8am with the hope of getting to Redondela at least by early afternoon.

    I slept well (ish). Which I think is standard when in a dorm.

    And I set off alone. Even though I knew Victoria was heading to the same albergue.

    I was a little weary and had apprehension when starting. I was too in my head about what could go on after now realising only 2 people I’ve walked with on the Camino have actually made it to Santiago.

    I guess I feel like I’m waiting for my turn. What will it be? And will it happen while I’m walking?

    It was quiet on the city roads while I started, but after a while Pilgrims just seemed to join from all roads, assuming leaving their own albergues.

    But there were so many. Not once today was there not a pilgrim in front or behind me. In fact I felt like I was on one huge perpetual school trip.

    I understand now what people mean, when you get down to the last 100km - the distance needed to gain the Compostela - and how busy it actually gets.

    Despite missing the peace of the Camino, their presence was welcomed and I began feeling more relaxed. The trepidation didn’t dissipate though, and I just had to use the mantra ‘trust the Camino’ over and over again.

    A fight with my mind was very much ongoing today.

    But then also with my body. There were hills today. And I just kept taking steps. I was tempted with cafes etc but I wanted to head down and get as far in as possible while it was both cool and I had motivation.

    I even over took with pace.

    But then much much older where overtaking me, maybe they started in Tui though - least that’s what I’m telling myself.

    I walked again alone for all of it. My mind desperately wanted distraction. And kept feeling for the phone to see distance left, or re making plans for the days ahead.

    The joy has departed somewhat. And now it’s just mentally and physical draining. 5-6 days left if I take central and that feels like a month!

    There was kindness and lil moments of joy though.

    A man selling Camino wears up on the heights, stamped my credential, but also helped me put my rucksack back on. Despite me not buying anything he clearly just wanted to help.

    A quick stop to buy a bottle of water, led to a piece of a frittata omelette. And it was the best prince I’d ever eaten - whether it was the recipes or the calories needed - it was good!

    A cute picture stop. Thanks to other pilgrims who are more than happy to take a picture, noting I’m alone.

    A pistachio brunch, pancakes was found. After I stopped at the first place in Redondela, and then a bunch of school kids sat down. I thought it best I move on to get served and so glad I did! Coffee, natural orange juice and pancakes!!! Amazing!!!

    A pilgrim vending machine!

    A lil old man was playing music out of his apartment on the streets, and so I danced, and he laughed and danced too and wished me an Buen Camino!

    A lil old church was found with a wonderful stamp!

    And this private hostel is simply beautiful. Rustic with so much charm. And I’ve had some lovely lil conversations with guests here.

    Didn’t go to the local bar for food. Opted for food from here, but I didn’t really trust it so didn’t eat much of it. But did collect protein bars for tomorrow.

    So in all, I did a hard thing.

    On my own I battled my nerves and carried on with the thing. And also my legs that wanted to give up at least 7 times.

    What will tomorrow bring? And that’s the beauty of the Camino, something completely new. People, places and experiences.    Baca lagi

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  • PengembaraCamino de Santiago
    Hari 17

    A day - Day 13

    20 April, Sepanyol ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Woke Up: Casa Alternativo
    Destination: O Porrino

    As promised we were woke at 7, but not with any music, dramatic opera. It was as if we were preparing for war.

    I guess in someways we are. Either we are body or mind, or in my case both.

    Breakfast was by sunrise outside, lit by candles. Big fan of breakfasts by candlelight. Enables a slower mindset for the day.

    I couldn’t eat the breakfast - was bread! But I had decided on a late one when I got to O Porrino.

    With my arrival times lately being at least 90 minutes over the eta. I decided on getting just to o porrino today, with the intention of getting to Redondela tomorrow. A classic stage.

    However leaving at 8am, I underestimated how long it would take me to get to the city. Meaning I got to the town at 10:30.

    And I’ve booked my accommodation so there’s no going on. But it’s okay. I could do with an afternoon of nothing - including sightseeing.

    And there’s not much to do here! And I could do with doing some washing - repacking etc.

    Did feel the loneliness again, setting off. I was the second to leave. The two Brazillian gentleman left first. Then me, then 4 germans and 1 Dutch who met on the Camino’s and are now walking together left after me.

    I thought I’d made a good pace despite the first steep climb back to the riverside Camino. - And I bumped into a Spanish gentleman walking to Fatima still with a head torch on who wanted me to take a picture for him - But they’d caught me up within the first 45 minutes, but they had brought Otto the dog from the albergue for a walk to O Porrino. So I walked with them for a while, but it was clear I couldn’t match their pace so I slunk to the back.

    It felt a bit crappy for a while. But I remembered I belong to the Camino, right now, not people. And of course the lessons I’ve been telling myself for years now, that it’s only my pace that matters and the fact I’m still going.

    Yes I miss my original Camino family. But I also needed the challenge of no one. Just me and my actual brain. And body. And I’ve got it!

    I knew it was going to be tough so I don’t know when I am surprised exactly.

    But as I’m having all these thoughts coming into O Porrino, Louisa calls me, checking in. She’s up ahead in Pontevedra, and who has also broken away from the group she was walking with.

    I find a brunch spot! And wait there till the albergue opens. I want to get there early to bag the bottom bunk, not a fan of the top ones.

    I do. And I manage to get the first laundry too which I share with the next Pilgrim, Victoria 🇩🇪. We exchange feet horror stories and take care of our feet. Hang our clothes, eat trail mix before heading out for some food. We headed only towards a lil tiny kebab place, nearby. But I felt lightheaded and shakey as soon as I got there. Possibly low blood pressure, possible just tired. But it made me mild panic - so I took my food to go.

    Although so close to the end now, I’m more dubious of my food. And my appetite is lower, when worrying if it’s okay to eat. Never had an issue before, but then I’ve never had to keep my body right for multiple days hiking on the trot.

    Grainne 🇮🇪 messages me to say that she got super ill between Caldas de Reis and Padron. And that she needed a doctor to come to the hotel, to inject her to stop her vomiting! She doesn’t know what caused it but told me to be weary of that stretch, to keep out of the sun etc. and careful of what I’m eating/drinking. She’s also not going to make the final day to Santiago now, she will take a bus. This knowledge. - I think - gives me psychosomatic symptoms of illness.

    Anyways, I feel a little better back at the hostel. And aiming for an early night.

    So today is just a day.

    PS: Lora cut her Camino short due to an illness, and flies home today.

    Body check - as per usual
    Highlights/Small things:
    O Call from Louisa
    O Finding the immediate steep hill much better than i thought
    O walking with Otto for a lil while - dog    Baca lagi

    Lihat terjemahan
  • PengembaraCamino de Santiago
    Hari 16

    Meltdown - Day 13

    19 April, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Woke up: Hostel Bulwark, Valenca
    Destination: Os Eidos

    I woke up at 7:30 and everyone had left!!

    I felt mega late. It took me a while to repack in the morning but I made my way out with the intention of eating breakfast on the way and exploring a little more of Valenca and Tui on the way .

    Which I did. Coffee and pasta de natal at the restaurant last night, where I got a stamp! Almost left my pole again!

    Visited the Knights Templar Church that Anna told me about. And stood in the corner while tourists came in and out. I just soaked in the space. It did feel different and after a while I did get emotional. That place IS special.

    Opposite was quirky antiques store, with a lovely lil chap, who gave me prices lower than whatever it was priced which was somewhat refreshing. We then had a conversation outside about the church and the Camino. He told me his best chance now is to drive it, but they frown on that.

    The way out of the fort was something special. It was giving Lord of the Rings vibes. And I loved it.

    Got a lil lost on the way out. And ended up on a battlement again, but soon figured it out.

    Got accosted by an American man asking if there was anything up there, and I think I replied with ‘yeah, everything, once in a lifetime thing’ and he and his companions had so many questions about the Camino.

    After living and breathing the Camino for so many days. You forget that some people just don’t know anything about it. They asked my name, thanked me and off I popped to the bridge to officially walk into Spain.

    Don’t remember the exact time as I was bricking it! The footpath bridge was again, long and felt like it was fixed with sellotape. So concentrated on breathing until I reached the otherside.

    I got a glimpse of Tui castle/Catherdral and hoped the Camino would take me passed. Despite it being on a hill. And it did! And the hill was easier than I thought - whether my body is stronger or hills are more gradual - it wasn’t too much of a slog. And unfortunately it wasn’t open. But my word is it impressive?!

    I had a lil chat with a man who took my photo at the doors which I super appreciated. And I also took a photo of three German friends who took a photo of me.

    I then wished to find a lil cafe for lunch on the way out of Tui. But apparently there was none. But there was a lovely stretch of old churches and woodland river walks with clearly old Roman structures still in place.

    But I did need to stop at some point and cafes that Google said were there weren’t. So when I came to the main road crossing I walked 100 metres or so back to a lil roadway cafe. That was NOT a friendly experience. So I just downed a juice and got a water to go! Quickly.

    After this the road stretch was long and seemingly never ending! And that’s when my mental power was properly first challenged. The sun, the heat, my brain. My legs. All got too much and of course I start beating myself up, knowing that actually I’m doing such comparatively shorter distances now.

    But at least the last section was mostly woodland and with a Roman bridge!

    And finally to Casa Alternativo. Last one here means I’m on the top bunk for the first time. But everyone was a lot more welcoming. Again, the majority Germans.

    Pilgrim dinner was amazing. I had a rice and fish fished cooked especially for me. Played with the dogs, dipped my feet in the cold pool. And after food Julia, came to visit me with her aunt from Vigo. She had asked if I needed anything. I said cotton wool and maybe cough sweets. She seemingly bought a whole pharmacy, bless her. But it was soooo good to see her and her love for the Camino was evident. I know she got emotional when I was talking about my experiences. And her aunt informed the conversations with her knowledge from living in Santiago.

    Oh and I also realised for the whole of today. I’m still on Portugal time. So weird for it now to be light at 9pm in a day.

    But sleep is needed as tomorrow apparently we’re getting woken up by music…

    That’s new.

    Body check: arm / back pack bruises make me look a bit drug addict-y.

    Little things / highlights;
    O strangers doing their best to take photos of you (Lorenzo / Catherdral man)
    O motivational signs when you need them
    O friendly welcome signs when you need them
    O pilgrims putting their mobile lights on so you can reach your top bunk
    O friends that bring you supplies in the middle of no where    Baca lagi

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