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Lisa AtkinsonLisa Atkinson
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podróżował/a po 20 krajach. Czytaj więcej Ambleside, United Kingdom
  • PodróżnikCamino de Santiago
    Dzień 15

    Tallyho…Day 12

    18 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    To the city…

    An early breakfast at 7.30! And a quick chat/help again with a young pilgrim, Misa, from Norway whose feet weren’t good. Tendonitis.

    She set off to get the boat taxi. And I set off to Valenca.

    A relatively short walk in the morning. I made it in for 11am.

    Headed straight to the walled city.

    Such an incredible experience as there’s cars that pass through and the tunnels need traffic lights for pedestrians and cars as only one can go at once.

    I walked around and touristed. And then Misa came to meet me, before she attempted to walk to Tui. Which she did. We sat on the grass battlements for a while, and then went back in. Letting her use my pole for the ascent in.

    Another pilgrim, who will now be walking slightly and then taxing the rest of the days.

    I do feel lucky that as slow as I maybe going or at least shorter distances. I’m still going. And I need to remember that when I feel frustrated when seeing other folks go longer distances.

    My pace is my pace and I think 10 miles is my main limit in this weather, prior to getting blisters or sunstroke.

    I had a quick snack of juice and pasta de natal of course. And headed to check-in.

    Great hostel! And just amazing to stay in the actual fortified city.

    And showered and then headed out for the evening. I joined a Canadian couple and Australian at the table next to me for a while, then ate my omelette tea. And toasted me and mum for getting halfway.

    I then went with to the Western facing battlements for sunset with Hubba before returning to hostel and to bed.     Czytaj więcej

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  • PodróżnikCamino de Santiago
    Dzień 14

    The Road Less Travelled… Day 11

    17 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Woke up: Pilgrim Rest, Vila do Cerveira
    Destination: Almoreda Medeavel, Pedro Sao Torres

    Early breakfast with our lil crew. Just coffee for me but it was nice and cosy.

    I recommended casa do sardao to Dan. It was then he asked if I knew a Bulgarian girl, called Lora. Apparently he’d seen her yesterday, and of course she was raving about it. Love the Camino and its synchronicity.

    Speaking of Julie is back on the Camino. She left me a voice note to say she’s started again, and how she was telling someone on the coastal path about her feet and hospital, and they responded whether it was Lisa that took you? It just happened to be the couple I helped with the train the day before.

    I left the Albergue last. Quite common for me. I’m waking up the earliest I have in years and I’m still the latest out the door. I prefer it though. Less danger of packing and forgetting something.

    I wandered into town. Found a cheap cafe for breakfast, my usual pasta de natal and espresso. And wrote my postcards. I then took them to the post office on my way out of town.

    I spotted a cemetery on the way out which I wandered a while. Still amazed by the intricacy and individuality of all, and how well maintained they all are.

    I then saw the road bridge, which links to Spain, just 300m away. So decided to have a quick cheeky step over into Spain. I set up my phone to take a lil video and when no one was watching I did a lil celebrating dance, but a car was coming behind me a honked and cheered me on, waving. I thanked them, and then perhaps, because of the kindness in strangers ‘seeing’ and understanding my achievement and choosing to celebrate it when I’m here alone, just made me cry.

    It was quite the rollercoaster of emotions.

    From this I collected myself and chose to do what Lora recommended and not take the road route, but river route. And I’m so glad she did. It was such a lovely stretch. I stopped for a juice by the river and saw so many fish and a huuggge dragonfly.

    I passed what seems liked hundreds of beautiful wild meadows. Old men chatting and fishing stopped to wish me Bom Camino. As well as a cyclist to tell me to ‘stay strong’. I then came made my way back to the official Camino, to walk into Pedro Sao de Torres.

    Over a medieval bridge, and Roman aqueduct.

    So taking the road less travelled really is more beautiful sometime.

    Until I arrived at the albergue. I knew I wanted to stay here after reading the reviews of how well the hosts know the Camino and look after pilgrims. As the Camino is as much about the people and places as the walking for me, this was on my must stay Camino bucket list. And I’m so glad I did.

    I shared with Anna, the host, why I was here. And she said despite doing the Camino so many times she’s never thought to do it ‘with’ her mum as she never saw the albergue they’ve created.

    Anna told me about how the place sits on the old Roman road the pilgrims would have taken as one of the most direct route. And how the Portuguese coastal has been authenticated as an original pilgrim route.

    And how the litoral on from Caminha is a tourist route created in and after Covid. The same for the spiritual variant. It’s nothing to do with the Camino, historically it is more to do with the Napoleonic Wars.

    This changed things for me. As much as it’s my Camino, and it can be what I need it to be. I love the idea of literally walking history and for the spiritual significance I want to stay as close to the traditional Camino going forward. So, as of now, I am going to stay as close to the central route back as possible.

    Anna also went on to tell me where to find the Knights Templar marks at Santiago and along the way to mark the rebirth and transformation. And for them their symbol for the Albergue is a rooster, signifying a new Dawn for all pilgrims arriving and then leaving their place.

    This made me cry, also. Because I’m an emotional mess apparently.

    The evening finished with a pilgrim meal for all. Unfortunately I couldn’t participate as much as I’d of liked because most of the residents were German. But I still chatted, made them laugh with some of my stories so far as well as getting excited when I understood Vai Vassa as Holy Water of all things.

    And then an evening of catching up on my journal.

    Body Check: just super knotty hair!!!

    Highlights/Little things:
    O Breakfast by Candlelight
    O A cold pool to soak my muscles in     Czytaj więcej

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  • PodróżnikCamino de Santiago
    Dzień 13

    Quiet - Day 10

    16 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Woke Up : Caminha
    Destination : Vila do Cerveria

    Another quiet and short day today. A bit of a blip of time confusion. My phone had sync’nd with Spanish time, which meant me rushing out of the hostel.

    However I was a whole hour earlier. As the albergue was quite far from the Camino, I decided to take the train back to it. However again I was whole hour early for it. It meant I got to help a retired pilgrim couple, from New Hampshire, navigate the train. They were visiting Valenca and Tui for the day - before heading back to Caminha to take the litoral path.

    I surprised a young couple by asking them a question on the train! (Who would later wave to me, when passing me in a cafe).

    Of course I choose another albergue way up a hill out of town. But the town was pretty. And wandered a little before going up.

    People from the houses waved to me and of shouted ‘Bom Camino’. The albergue, Pilgrim Rest, was small but beautiful with a stunning garden, wind chimes, fruit trees and an allotment. Of which the food for the evening would be picked from.

    Michaela, knowing I couldn’t have much gluten before arriving, had prepared a delicious broccoli and cheese quinoa dish, salad and sorbet for the meal.

    There was only a handful of other pilgrims. 2 retired guys, including Baz. From Australia. He was taking his time getting to Santiago, and then Finisterre, to throw a rock for his little girl who died at 4 months but would be 21 this month.

    Dan from Brazil, then NY, who’d quit his finance career against advice of family and friends and has now walked the French Way, and is continuing on to Porto or Lisbon. He hasn’t decided yet.

    And then a retired woman, Christine, who came today to start the Camino tomorrow.

    After tea, I watched the sunset and listened to the wind chimes. I chatted a little more to Baz about his backstory and life as is the way on the Camino. And then we were all tucked up in Bed by 9 ready for an early checkout of 8am.

    Body Check: still got my sunburnt socks! No hope of blending this apparently to my other skin tone. Despite a week in shorts! Oh well. Slight arch pain. No more blisters for now.

    Little things/highlights:
    O Acting like kids as grown adults getting ready for bed.
    O Eating fresh food outside.     Czytaj więcej

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  • PodróżnikCamino de Santiago
    Dzień 12

    I can see spain!! 🇪🇸 - Day 9

    15 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    Woke Up: Praia do Acora
    Destination: Caminha

    An afternoon of walking.

    With a decision to make. Do I take the boat at Caminha to Spain and rejoin the Coastal, or do I turn inland to the Central towards Valenca and cross the border at Tui.

    I think this will give me the best chance of being able to do the spiritual variant.

    I’m intentionally taking shorter distances now after all the foot injuries I’ve witnessed. Although I am aiming to pick up the distances once in Tui.

    I think I’ve identified all the main pressure points my feet suffer with. But there’s always more I’m sure.

    The route was mostly coastal with some road working.

    I got surprisingly emotional when seeing Spain. But perhaps not that surprising when I literally came last in all cross country / running activities at school, and here I am, literally about to cross a country after walking almost half the length of one.

    Finding my hostel I came across a church on a hill. I wondered if it was open, but no, locked. Until I heard a little voice shout out. It was a nun, who asked if I wanted a stamp. Of course I said yes.

    I also explored their cemetery. Complete with crypts. But all tombs and gravestones, all beautifully intricate and still maintained with fresh flowers despite many being decades old.

    I found the hostel. Ditched my rucksack and descended into town to see if I could make the post office before shutting. I did, just.

    I then found a restaurant to eat. While I was waiting one of mums favourite songs started playing. This was just as I was deliberating on what to do tomorrow - so she helped and endorsed the decision made.

    I also made friends with a rescue puppy (who has a home now!!) - just can’t believe she was abandoned. And talked to two other pilgrims, from America, who shared their Camino reasons (grief journey) for a while before heading back.

    Body check: feet as usual, although heel blister healing can still flare slightly after 3 hours walking time. Back is burnt, somehow. Perhaps yesterday at the cafe? (Managed to find a lovely Italian woman - also a masseuse - who put balm on for me).

    Little things/Highlights:
    O Breakfast with Julie with Pastel de Natal
    O Kindness of Italian lady
    O Puppy!!!!     Czytaj więcej

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  • PodróżnikCamino de Santiago
    Dzień 11

    12 Hours - Day 8.

    14 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Woke up: Casa do Sadao
    Destination: Praia do Acora

    The day started with a sleepy due haze at Sadao.

    With a short day ahead for me. And a morning of goodbyes, I waited for most pilgrims to leave. Then I had my usual yoghurt/rice cake breakfast. Waited upon Lora, to set off together with the intention of exploring the waterfalls together.

    As it’s off route of the Camino, we wanted to make sure we didn’t do this part solo.

    The houses on this route, are rustic and botanical perfection. A folk tale must exist behind each and every door. I am sure.

    The stone paths to the forest left a dappled light that was magical to walk towards.

    The waterfalls walk took us scrambling, an athletic feat with our rucksacks. Caught mine once or twice in low hanging branches. But we were able to source the top and sit a while.

    Until our departure which took us higher into the hill. Luckily most were shaded. A few poorly handwritten signs of lodgings had us laughing, noting the horror film waiting to happen, should someone ring that number.

    We kept pace together and discussed many topics. Including our Camino reasons in more depth. And our backstories with spirituality.

    We had a quick cafe stop at midday. Another pilgrim seemed to want to enter but stopped just before (this will become important).

    We walked through mud and had to climb through mud. But we were soon at the town of my destination. Here we had our first pilgrim meal, veg stew and omelette plus a coffee.

    I think this is also where I got burnt.

    We then walked to my albergue. And Lora headed on to Caminha.

    My intention was to shower, catch up on organised my media and then head out for sunset.

    It was here that an intense 12 hours was about to begin.

    I got shown two dorms I could sleep in. The second had a girl at the end bunk already, who called out. So I decided on this one.

    Within 30 minutes, not one of us knowing the other’s name. We’d cried together. Sharing pain, and wisdom with each other. And even exchanging bracelets.

    Her feet were also not great. But she wished to get an ice cream and write a little. So we headed out to do this.

    We also chatted with Marik, the sweetest lad from Prague. Who just constantly wanted to help in any way.

    Back at the albergue, a woman who’d entered the dorm as me and Julie (now knowing her name) were talking complemented me. With my ability to hold the perfect space for people to open up and that my advice was way beyond my years. Although the highest someone had guessed my age so far has been 31. So I never know quite the age people are placing me at.

    I headed out for the sunset. Marik accompanied me, he’s a fan of Hubba. On my return a man was singing and playing an accordion outside my hostel/cafe, I stopped to hear him play and a woman gestured to join them, and they also bought me a beer. No questions, they just simply wanted me to enjoy that space.

    Julie found me. Distraught. She learnt she should go to the hospital for her foot condition. I told her I’d go with her. So we took a taxi straight back to Viana do Castelo (20 minutes drive, yet it took me 2.5 days to walk from there) - but anyway. A little chaotic, but she was seen within three hours. Julie kept repeating how glad I was with her as she’d be panicking otherwise.

    So of course we spent at least another 4 hours delving into more of each other backstories, issues as well as big philosophical problems.

    But she was finally seen around 11. I was able to translate well enough, although the responsibility was huge. I held her hand throughout both procedures. Waited another 45 mins for a nurse to bandage her. And then with only 60 euros to pay we left.

    Well I called a taxi, again in Portuguese. That was ridiculously tough, but success. We had a chatty driver, who took us back and we arrived back at 1am.

    And the other lady had waited up to see if she was okay.

    We slept in. Me resolved to the fact I will only do a short walk again. One because of the lack of sleep, but also because the lessons I am observing from everyone around me to look after my feet.

    Izabela had to quit the Camino because of muscular damage in her feet.

    So a late start and Julie took me to breakfast as a thank you. So started the day with a wonderful Pastel de Nata. And of course another couple of hours of sharing stories/life lessons. Just enough time for another cry for both of us.

    I fond farewell.

    And for once, I am the pilgrim going on ahead…     Czytaj więcej

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  • PodróżnikCamino de Santiago
    Dzień 10–12

    Rest - Day 6/7

    13 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    This place was peace.

    I can’t explain all the reasons why. Maybe it was the sunsets, maybe the rhythmic lighthouse glow, the starry moonlit skies, the freedom of the animals, the wild meadows, the brook that ran through the land.

    Probably a combination. How can a place feel like home, but also lost.

    I was told if I found somewhere that I wanted to explore while on the Camino to stay, perhaps rest.

    While I need to rest, because of “that” time. The Camino synced me up perfectly with this place.

    And instead of exploring I was still.

    I found a flat rock in the brook, surrounded by meadow flowers, and with butterflies dancing and also the inquisitive dragonfly.

    I sat. I meditated. I listened. I laughed.

    I felt time slow and stop. And I felt my impermanence and I felt joy in presence. Rooted in complete simplicity. It was emotional to feel this again. Knowing this feeling exists for me.

    How I keep the feeling, I don’t know. But knowing it exists, is good enough right know.

    Tomorrow I return to the Camino…     Czytaj więcej

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  • PodróżnikCamino de Santiago
    Dzień 8

    Fairytale - Day 5

    11 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Woke Up: Dias House, Anha
    Destination: Carraço

    Left the earliest yet (although still last one to leave). Ironically after having a room by myself I slept the worst. The tickle at the back of my throat kept me awake.

    At breakfast I asked the Lady (although needed to translate tickle - but that also didn’t convey the issue) if she had anything to help - thinking a strepsil or something.

    Instead she went and made me a homemade honey, lemon and water shot. But she was very strict I take it after I finish breakfast. It was lovely and the tender care she took in making it was hospitality at its finest.

    The walk back to the Camino, included a hill. Which was tough going. I caught my shadow and found it looking more like a pilgrim.

    At the top of the hill I saw Viana do Castelo.

    Lynda from the day before caught up with me and at the same pace, we descended and crossed the bridge together. A walking holiday for her, and conversation was largely Dubai retail market.

    A widely different conversation from most Camino conversations.

    Wanting more alone time. I said I wanted to check out a church and the Catherdral before going on. Which I did. Although my Ouvi battery fell from my pocket when readjusting my rucksack. So I ran back, and it was there!!

    The Catherdral was beautiful in design. And I lit candles for various people’s healing, including my own. As well as the on going peace of Mum and Grandad.

    Upon leaving, I saw a shop with items I’ve been looking for, including sunglasses. I also treated myself to a viser! Especially helpful - as I can keep my hair up (as retired as it may make me look).

    Leaving, of course, I bump into Tim and Lesley having lunch. So I stop and take a snack with them. We’re staying at the same place, but Lesley foot is hurting and they’ve spent the morning getting lost so they’re taking a taxi to the place.

    I pop into a pharmacy on the way out. For my cough and nose. They give me some antihistamines. They warn like with all it can make you a bit drowsy. And I said with the way my body feels I doubt I would notice a difference.

    I press on. Not realising the route will be more uphill. It’s residential for quite a while - not my favourite parts of the walk. However, apparently my antihistamine is kicking in, as I start to feel high AF. Luckily it’s a few minutes things, and the road is evening out in a countryside.

    An older German gentlemen pilgrim, Stefan, who passed me earlier appeared, after getting sidetracked, and we chatted for a while. We came to a village with a rock cross high on the hill, leading to a stream, that looked straight out of a fairy tale. Stefan realising that I’d like to stay - wished me fair well.

    The beauty of the Camino is everyone realises the Camino is personal. And we’re guests in each other’s walk. In each pilgrim there’s a story. But rarely are there goodbyes.

    I decided to stay until the next pilgrim would arrive, but one never did. It felt like a dream.

    Once I left. Another pilgrim came upon me, Emma from France. Heading for the same destination we walked together.

    This is the most rural place I’ve stopped so far. But I loved the sound of the albergue. 500 years old, stone walls and animals.

    Grabbed some food however from the little shop before heading to it. In case there’s nothing.

    On arrival, Tim and Lesley, who are also with Mike and Beth from yesterday are here!! Gave me a fanfare arrival, laughing that I’d “picked up more people”. It was a core memory, though. The happiness in greeting folks, who are sharing the walk but understanding each other’s journey. Arrival at an albergue after each day is a personal and literal milestone.

    The evening. Included the best sunset. And some beautiful memories and realisations.

    Body check:
    O blisters (healed).
    O arm bruises (rucksack)
    O cough (allergy/climate)

    Little things/highlights:
    O morning honey drink
    O surprise waterfalls/streams
    O evening/night-sky     Czytaj więcej

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  • PodróżnikCamino de Santiago
    Dzień 7

    Short but Sweet - Day 4

    10 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Woke up: Sea Soul Hostel - Esponede
    Destination: Unknown

    Slept well despite a poorly tummy in the night.

    Late start, but I knew it was going to be a short day. I had in my head I’ll walk for three hours and see how far I get. Rianna gave me some of her bleached sheep’s wool for my feet, to pad the tootsies - this has indeed seem to help. My feet are no worse at the end of the day today.

    We set off together with the intention of splitting apart. But we just so happened to have the same pace and also fancied stopping at the same cafe for breakfast. First day using the pole, and this came in handy on the cobbles and inclines.

    Bizarrely I did well on the inclines. I think it may be because my legs enjoyed using different muscle. Feeling new muscle pain seems oddly relieving and a bit of a welcomed change up.

    Walking the tops of the town, and seeing the houses, was a treat. So many beautiful trees, including fruit trees, bursting with oranges, lemons and mangos.

    It also gave Rianna and I more time to speak about our Camino paths. She asked if I wanted to speak about my mum, and I did! I told her all the things that I think I’ve taken from her, including her kindness, her love of rescuing animals, individuality and her curiosity. I spoke of who she was when she was in hospital and how she cared for those around her. And I spoke about my time with her so far on the Camino. It was nice to be asked, and of course we spoke on hers too.

    After 2 hours we decided to stop at a very small local cafe. We were welcomed, and within 20 minutes, they knew I could speak Portuguese (ish) and they loved chatting. We discussed all things Brazil, travel, culture, why they should be proud of their people. And also their stories, including a couple who met in Santiago.

    We laughed. But we needed to say goodbye so we walked a little with one of the locals. Who introduced him to his puppy, Luiz, on passing his house. Gorgeous!

    We then came to a forest path. With a natural alter of mementos. It was beautiful. And the path got wilder, but still the yellow arrows remained. A waterfall and current could be heard, and the path unfolds to a stream and stone bridge. Something straight out of a fairy tale.

    It was in this forest I felt a genuine smile of peace forming. It was notable.

    And then noises. A strong chirping, but couldn’t recognise it. Until Rianna told me it was frogs - wow!! I’ve never heard a cacophony of frogs before.

    More hill. After topping up our sunscreen, I think it’s time to find lodgings. We come across one, and I’m tempted but it’s still a little out the way to be ideal. And I know have an hour of walking in me, so we head your maps. At that moment, an American couple we’ve passed twice today, lets us know they’re heading to the church and monastery op the road - to see an ancient artefact . One that proves the Coastal Route was indeed used by early pilgrims (it dates to 859AD).

    So, of course got to go see that! Of course it’s on top of a big hill. But I did it without stopping.

    I’m concerned however. I don’t know whether I’m flushed from the cardio or I’m just burning at this point.

    Found the church. Stamped our passports. And had some quiet time reflecting. Also a sign of not but on the same page, another Lisa and Chris has visited an hour before?

    I also took some time to explore - which I am glad I did, because the church has a top level Necropolis. Stunning!!! The care and the detail in every family place was incredible.

    But it was time to hang up the feet. I said goodbye to the pilgrims I’d walked with today and found a pink country guest house, nearby. And run by an old lady, who only knows Portuguese, but is such a welcoming host. And has a fully stocked kitchen of supplies to choose from.

    Today has been a good day. My body did me proud. And my mind did me proud.

    Body check: Same as yesterday - although arm bruises, I think from rucksack throwing.

    Little things:
    O small gestures of kindness from others that mean the world / American pilgrim paying for T & the donation of sheep wool for my tootsies.
    O A room of my own     Czytaj więcej

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  • PodróżnikCamino de Santiago
    Dzień 6

    The Boredwalk - Day 3

    9 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Woke up: Pousada de Junventude (albergue)
    Destination: unknown

    Bored, bored, bored was most of today.

    But I did wake up feeling no where near as bad as I thought I would. So that gave me a good kick of motivation. As well as the mindset I would get as far as I could.

    I headed out alone. And was alone for most of today. There was a never-ending boardwalk that also cut in land which got super lush. Eucalyptus trees. And lots of allotments.

    Oh and I bumped into Julia and Greg, the volunteers from Boston, working in the first pilgrim hostel in Porto. How coincidinks is that? Literally bumped into them - how can you be in a completely different country for 4 days and meet people you know, 50km away, at the exact same time. The Camino, sure lets you know with synchronousity that you doing something right by being here.

    The Camino also Provides - and so it did. Only 20 mins after wishing I’d brought the physio ball for under the feet, a cyclist flagged me down and just randomly gave me a golf ball. No words, no actions with it. Just gave me one. Which came in plenty handy this evening in relaxing my feet.

    I’d changed my footwear not too long in as I felt certain pain. Glad I did as I spotted the beginnings of a blister. So I changed, with much more room, and ventilation to the feet. So tied my boots on to my bag - although little did I know how long I was going to be in them.

    Some signposts along the way LIED! They said from when you started a particular section it would be 12.5 km till Esponede (the ideal destination for the day).

    And so on one boardwalk section, that took inland, taking me (now I know, away from the Senda Literol path to the official coastal) - it made me aware I had only 2.5 km to go. Brillant - I’ll book my hostel then!

    Happy as only previously I was half tempted to stop in a albergue on the path. Was super cute but it felt too rural for what I was after. Especially if the destination was so near.

    I ploughed on. Walking into forest tracks, aware of a female pilgrim not too far behind. The birds chirping in my head cheerleading me on. I came to a cross roads, and it was this point I realised I’d followed Camino signs off the senda litoral and on to the official costal. As I could work out why I was off the path marked on my phone, but the signs were saying different. It was at this point a man on a tractor beckoned me to come towards him, and then shouted “Santiago” of which we replied yes. And so she replied “that way, that way”.

    Camino provided directions too apparently.

    I walked with the pilgrim who caught me up for a while, an Irish woman from Dublin. At this point the cobbled roads were starting to hurt. And some rocky parts too were starting to really be felt by my under foot.

    Coming into a small village, I spotted a church, and veered away from Irish woman. Also wondering whether they may have a stamp, as I’m still needing my first of the day. As I turn, I spotted resting the Dutch lady who was opposite me in the hostel last night. She followed my lead when I asked if there was a stamp, and she said oh we must check.

    With that we headed in, leaving the other pilgrim to walk on ahead. There was a stamp. It was also at this point we realised we were again staying in the same place tonight so we set off together.

    I found out Rianna, is also here on a grief journey and came to be and walk with her mum, three years after her passing.

    We gained on the fellow pilgrim, who was clearly struggling. But she was adamant her town and lodgings was next.

    It was at this point I checked how far we were away. 7.5 km (another 2 hours)! Stupid tourist signboards. Trust issues ahoy now!

    And I’d booked my accommodation. So where I had hoped to walk as far as I could then book a place, that did NOT go to plan. My pace began worsening, the cobbled streets got atrociously cursed. And then to top it off, I had to walk a long bridge, but the pedestrian part was closed off so there was a makeshift scaffolding situation to walk on. That swayed!

    This time I unclimbed my bag belts from me. Can’t believe I hadn’t thought of it last time, yes I can swim, but that back pack is gonna sink a person.

    And so I trudged on. Although the last 20 mins with the help of a friend, won’t lie.

    I arrived. I checked my feet. I showered. I went out for tea with Rianna and finally sampled Portugal’s dish, Fransescina (interesting!

    How much my body can do tomorrow, is anyone’s guess. But I’m hoping it finally finds its rhythm, and this whole the first three days are the worse’s gets put behind me.

    PS - cute check in texts by Angel and Lesley

    Body check:
    O blister behind right baby toe,
    O blister forming to the side of my heel left foot.
    O Bottom of legs sunburnt (legging end and sock start)

    Little things:
    O Concrete / or mud roads
    O Showers not on a timer     Czytaj więcej

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  • PodróżnikCamino de Santiago
    Dzień 5

    Serendipity - Day 2

    8 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    Woke up in: Caruma Surf Hostel
    Destination: Vila do Conde

    An intentional late start to the day, to miss the weather. I pre-booked my accommodation the night before, so had the luxury of time to get there.

    I set out with the one other Pilgrim from the Surf Hostel. An Irish female, Grainne. Once through the town and back to the coast, a pilgrim was walking across the road and on to the path. It looked like Angel, from the day before. It was! So two became three.

    Grainne is struggling with a chest infection, so she was going to stop at a lighthouse we were coming to. But we all took a water break, and she carried on. We found the start of the boardwalk, and began passing or being overtaken by other pilgrims.

    We thought to take a quick pit stop at an open restaurant for lunch, as we’d passed many cafes and restaurants that weren’t yet open. So took our chance. I bundled up half of mine for tea later.

    The rest of the afternoon passed slowly. Just after lunch, we spotted our destination in the distance. And we plodded on. The waves and wind fierce but beautiful and calming. The three of us, and our paces, separated for time and would then come back and for a while we’d all be in different order.

    But it was nice, there was always someone technically looking back for someone. Or looking to someone.

    My mind finally found its first bit of peace on this section. No chatter just the sensations of everything around me. It was just quiet.

    A male pilgrim walked with us for a while too. He’d completed the Camino a week ago but as the weather had been bad, he decided to go again, with the time he still had left in the country and would get as far as he could.

    A little after this Angel wanted to take a break, and said she’d catch up. We went on a head. Although I wanted a break when I was about 90 mins out. So I bid farewell to Grainne and hopped into a tiny beach cafe. Great timing, as minutes after a mini rainstorm hit. So felt a little smug, eating my ice cream, while the windows got battered and rain streaked.

    Just after it stopped Angel found me. Took to having a second break, but I couldn’t stay much longer as I needed to make my hostel before sunset and my legs were seizing up.

    I began walking again. This time, feeling the loss of the presence of both of them, both ahead and behind. I kept looking back out of habit, but nothing.

    Before joining the boardwalk again, I had to pass 2 men, who I was slightly daunted by. But upon passing they broke into smiles and wished me a “Bon Camino”!

    The wind had whipped up more. But I was sheltered slightly by a raised dune. While hard. A break in the thoughts and calmness gave way to the presence of mum. Emotions rose and conversations were had. And I continued.

    I then had to contend with sand dunes. Where my already treacle legs struggled and cursed the arm dust.

    I finally came to the end of the boardwalk. Against a setting sun and lighthouse catching the light. No other pilgrim had I seen since leaving Angel. I felt last. A sneaky feeling from youth, but quashed almost as quickly as it came, for the Camino isn’t for medals.

    As I turned off the beach walk into town, someone was waving at me. Grainne had also stopped for a cafe break, and was just leaving now. So we walked into vile do conde together. Starting and ending the day together.

    Just before separating she thanked me. If it wasn’t for Angel and I she would have stopped at the Lighthouse and got a bus to the destination. Hoping to start again tomorrow. But she did it! Goes to show the magic in meetings.

    My albergue is stunning. A beautiful historic pink building. I think my body will sleep well here tonight.

    Body check: pressure points behind my little toes / lower back tender. And thighs just hurt.

    Simple things: A glass of natural orange juice.     Czytaj więcej

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