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The Great Divide

July - August 2023
The route is approximately 2,700 miles long and with over 200,000 feet (60,960 meters) of elevation gain and loss. Starting in Banff, Canada, finishing is New Mexico. I will be attempting this solo with everything I need on my bike. Read more
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  • TravelerThe Great Divide

    Gatwick to Calgary

    July 10, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Having successfully dismantled and packed my bike with all of my gear into a cardboard box, I set off to the airport to catch my flight to Calgary, Canada., to attempt to cycle The Great Divide, 2800 miles over mountain tracks, unaided and solo. With an equal amount of excitement and trepidation I am both nervous and terrified about this adventure that has come around quickly. It seems like all the months of planning and preparation are now for real. The Visa applications, training sessions, planned routes, tents, kit, food, knowledge, transport, excel spreadsheets……the preparation has been immense. Tonight, I am staying at Gatwick airport, so I am ready for my flight tomorrow morning. In 24 hours I will be (hopefully) unpacking my bike and shopping for essentials in Banff, a bucket list place to visit for me. Things I couldn’t take with me on the plane that I need are; bear spray, camping gas, bear lines, lighters, and food. I have read as many forums as I can, books and trained and cycled miles with my bike fully loaded, (and not), but only when I set off on the 13th will I know how prepared I really am. I suspect there are many things that I have forgotten and many things I will be pleased I considered. Until then I will set my alarm and enjoy my last night in a hotel room.Read more

  • TravelerThe Great Divide
    Day 4

    Banff to British Columbia

    July 14, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The toughest two days ever on a bike! But I’m here, doing it, no longer on the sofa dreaming about it. Over the last two days I have cycled 170 km and climbed over 6800ft (2100mtrs) through the amazing Canadian Rockies. The scenery has been absolutely mind blowing,
    Setting off in Banff I was super excited but very anxious, I had a rough plan on where I wanted to be each day, but also decided that it will depend on the weather and how my legs felt. Cycling through the first part of the Rockies reminded me a lot of cycling in the Pyrenees. They say that everything you have done and experienced in life is a lesson for the moment you are in right now. The only thing that got me through the last few days and no doubt the rest of this trip will be my time spent in the Pyrenees, cycling with Chorley and now Los Bandidos cycling clubs. Pushing/cycling up some of the climbs in the Rockies was more challenging than I had anticipated. After only 30 miles or 50km with a fully loaded mountain bike is hard, and not to be under estimated. Memories of loved ones and times spent with them is keeping me going.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Great Divide
    Day 7

    Day 3 - 5 Elkford-Eureka (USA!)

    July 17, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Ride your ride, live your life. Setting off from Elkford I started with saddle sores. I made the schoolgirl error of changing my saddle before I set off from the UK for a “better” one. Turns out expensive does not equal better. Passing by Sparwood mining town and eating a massive brunch with a pancake side, (normally I’d never manage all that), I knew I was in a lot of trouble with my bottom. I am so frustrated because my legs are in good shape for this, but the sores are holding me back. After another 2000ft of climbing, mainly out of the saddle, on some rough mountain passes, we arrived in Fernie. I found a bike shop to replace my saddle and get replacement disc brakes. As common as mine are in the UK, the stock of misuma in the US is sparse. Mike the bike shop owner offered his back yard for us to camp in, saving us travelling any further. Leaving Fernie the next morning with my two amigos I met on route, we headed for Grassmere, through some real Canadian Rockies wilderness, no shops or towns, just tracks and mountains with rivers and streams. The streams were a welcome relief for the saddle sores! Another 2000+ft of climbing and into Grassmere we rolled, stopping at a beautiful lake to cowboy camp for the evening. The peace, quiet and tranquility was wonderful. I had my first go at hanging my food in a bear bag in the trees, 3rd time lucky! Up early and heading for the USA boarder and Eureka. It seemed funny queuing up on a bike with the cars and trucks to have my passport and visa checked. First stop, I had to call at the pharmacy for some dressings for my backside and then made the decision to have the afternoon and possibly tomorrow morning off the bike to recover. I felt bad leaving the friends I had made so far along the way, but I knew I needed rest and trying to keep up was not good for me or them. The same with life, this is my ride, I need to do it at my pace. Following someone else was never the plan, and I want to enjoy the journey. I’m not on anyone’s timescales but my own although I have loved the support and company of my new friends so far. Too often in life I have followed others and ended up not where I wanted to be. You only get one life, live it how you want to and enjoy the people you come across along the way. Hopefully I will catch up with my friends tomorrow on route, but one day at a time, with no pressure.Read more

  • TravelerThe Great Divide
    Day 10

    Day 6-8 Eureka to Whitefish Montana.

    July 20, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    “The real treasure is the friends we make along the way” (Stand By Me, 1985), Setting off from Eureka I headed into the Akamina Kishinena National Park for a planned three days, totally off grid. I have a satellite link so that my nearest and dearest can track me, also in case I do run into some serious trouble with a bear, at least someone knows where to come and collect my body from, leave no trace (only kidding mum!). The climbs were totally insane, indescribable and extremely tough in parts. No one ever tells you about the parts of this trail where the “paths” are just rocks and boulders up hill for 35+miles. However the scenery was breathtaking and well worth it. With my amigos Chris and Jamie we climbed, and we climbed. As the midday sun hits my camel bag, my drinking water becomes the same temperature as warm tea, so stopping to filter clean fresh cold water from streams is a true delight. We spent the night pitched at Wurtz Cabin, and set off to do the same thing the day after, reaching the town of Whitefish, a full day ahead of my planned schedule. It is becoming apparent that the journey and the people you meet along the way is far more important than the destination, how far I get each day is a bonus. Each day brings its own surprises, and hellish moments. After 7 days on the bike I decided to take a zero day. (A day with no miles) As I woke up, a myriad of emotions washed over me, 300+ miles, 17k+ foot of climbing, and only a week into my marathon solo trip. I had a video call with my mum, who, as always, put my hat back on straight. So I pulled up my big girl pants and headed to the army supply store to get stocked up on dried food. I then had to change up my front plastic pannier bag straps for more secure hose clips. The old ones were slipping round into the wheel spokes on the descents with all of the bouncing. In June, I cycled the Camino de Santiago and on route met Americans, Lauri Ann & Andy, today I was blown away when they paid me a surprise visit, driving nearly 3 hours out of their way to meet me in Whitefish for a late lunch. I have been so lucky in my life to meet some wonderful people, friends who have been with me through thick and thin, new friends who surprise me with their support and kindness and my long suffering family, all there when I need them. This journey so far has really proven to me that there are good people in this world, kindness is shared and all around us. Give it generously and without expecting anything in return. This year has been a hard year for me, but it has been a growth year, I have stopped fixating on what has gone wrong and started to appreciate the journey, learn it’s lessons, and love the people it presents in my path.
    Tomorrow I’ll be heading into the Flathead National Forest for three or four days, again off grid and one of the longest sections without towns or resupply. The daily pre ride anxiety is already kicking in.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Great Divide
    Day 12

    Day 9-10. Whitefish to Seeley Lake

    July 22, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Wild forest fires and all the best plans! So the original plan was to go off grid for three days, Whitefish to Swan Lake, then to Holland Lake then finally out of the mountains at Seeley Lake. However, the wild forest fires had other plans for us. We set off from Whitefish and had a beautiful cycle to Swan lake, climbing up through the Swan mountain range. Stopping at Big Fork on route for some brunch. The temperature reaching over 100 degrees by midday making the afternoon cycle petty difficult and very sweaty. We eventually arrived at Swan lake in time to enjoy the water in the late afternoon evening sunshine. So many families enjoying the lake it was beautiful to see. Heading back to camp to make my dried backpackers dinner of mushroom risotto and eat it by the stream, then fall onto my tent as the sun set. Up early at 5am in the dark, putting down tents and packing bikes with head torches, we wanted to head out before the heat of the day. Good job we did, it turned out that wild fires south of us in Holland Lake were spreading fast and causing evacuations. We had to come off the GDMBR route and our plan to stop in Holland lake was not possible. The only option was to head to the highway and try to cycle south fast, to out run the fires . A trail angel Dale who we met at a local store offered to give us a lift in his truck south ensuring that we would be south of the fires before they closed off the main route 83.
    Arriving is Seeley lake we found a campsite and a laundromat where of course you can also take a shower! Ahead of the fires and ahead of schedule, today could have been very different. The universe certainly looked out for us today. A welcome beer in the local “town” then back to the camp site to reflect on the last couple of days and plan tomorrow (or try to).    Read more

  • TravelerThe Great Divide
    Day 14

    Day 11-12 Seeley Lake to Lincoln

    July 24, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    What is it really like to ride these roads? In a word, difficult, beyond belief in parts. I would consider myself to be a reasonable cyclist, not the worst and by no means the best, pretty average. I can happily keep up with a club ride and often ride 80-100km on a morning hilly ride. None of that prepared me for the terrain here. It is spectacular but 50km here on these roads with all my kit, takes on average 6 hours for someone like me. Many people I have met on route have had the same experience, overestimating their daily mileage. Each day I set off early, usually at 7am to avoid the main heat of the day. Riding on dirt gravel roads that are washboard all over with no smooth surface in site. After 20km my legs are screaming and the climbs have usually begun. Today the climb was not too long just a short 12km on really tough, rough rocky roads. Parts made the Paris Roubaix route seem nice, at least that had some tarmac. My fingers were becoming numb from the vibrations, cars passing kicking up dust when they pass, making it hard to breath. Stopping at a stream to refill my camel bag with filtered water was light relief. After 7km of climbing and being on gravel roads for 28km and 5 hours, my right knee started to give me pain. My whole body telling me to stop. My mind telling me to keep going, remembering how much work has gone in to getting me here, I push on. Enjoy it I keep telling myself. But my body is telling me different. No one tells you how hard these climbs are. Much like tough days in life, they too shall pass. I reach the summit and start the decent. Then my brain has to kick in, one mistake on this downhill, on these roads and I will be thrown off with broken bones. Out of the saddle and I started the decent, my legs screaming, my hands now numb, my brain arguing with my mind. Finally we reach the campsite and tonight it’s next to a bar. Sitting with my friends having a beer, meeting other cyclists makes the day all worth while. Until tomorrow.Read more

  • TravelerThe Great Divide
    Day 17

    Day 13-15 Lincoln to Helena

    July 27, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Kindness. On the route to Helena I noticed it passed by one of the famous places on the GDMBR, the Larma Lodge, owned and run by trail angels Barbara and John. Barb bought the place before the American Adventure Cycling Association (ACA) published the route. When she started to see cyclist pass by her ranch, she started offering water, food and her ranch as a place for cyclists to camp. Her kindness and generosity towards cyclists on this route grew when she purchased her first cabin, offering it free to passing cyclists. In 2015 John rode the GDMBR, and after 17 years (now as Barbara’s partner) is the longest staying cyclist. When I arrived at the ranch Barb and John were just leaving to go into town for supplies, leaving they said to help myself to the porch, grab a cold drink, sandwich and relax in the sofas. My cabin had all be labelled for me as they were expecting a lot of cyclists that day. On entering the porch the fridge was full of soda, beers and a box of fresh sandwiches. A true welcome. Sitting on the sofas about 20 other cyclists also turned up that afternoon. What a great atmosphere. When Barb and John returned their home was littered with cyclists, they didn’t seem phased at all. In fact quite the opposite, they welcomed it. Their “fee structure” as John spoke to us, was everything is free, they don’t take payment for anything, the only thing they ask, is that we pass on the kindness. It is their way of making a difference through us. Truly inspiring people. I headed to the field, seeing a multitude of different lodges all self contained. On entering the red lodge with my name on, I was presented with a stocked kitchen with dried foods, coffee, tea, two bottles of wine and MnMs!! Each cabin having its own solar charging points and beds, with clean sheets and pillows. Total luxury. In the morning no one really wanted to leave such a wonderful place, but the Divide was calling us. Heading back on the road to Montana’s capital Helena. It’s now day 15 and my front rotor has bent on my bike from the downhills, so it is in the shop in town to get fixed, forcing me to take my second zero day to explore the city. Nestled half-way between Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks sits the Gates of the Mountain, so I booked a boat tour down the river to see the “heart of Montana”. Back on the road tomorrow, but until then, I’ll enjoy my next 24 hours out of the saddle and reflect on the true kindness shown by people so far on this journey.Read more

  • TravelerThe Great Divide
    Day 20

    Day 16-18 Helena - Grant

    July 30, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Home. In the last three days I have ridden over 300km and climbed over 8000ft, (no wonder my backside is sore again!), passing some amazing homes and getting my thoughts wandering to the meaning of home. Travelling from Helena to Grant, through Butte and Wise River, I have seen some different places where people live. Canada and north Montana had Mansions by lakes and exclusive log cabins in the woods, as we travel further south it’s RV’s, huts, wood houses, ranches and communes, all places where people have chosen to make their home. Home for me has always been a person, not a place Whether for you home is a person or physical building, one thing most of us experience in life is a change in one or the other. I have been on trail for three weeks now and it’s interesting to see how riders are reacting to being away from their homes and loved ones. Many are home sick, cutting their journey short due to work commitments or the longing of home. It’s a horrible feeling missing home, that person/place of warmth, comfort, where you feel loved and safe. But you don’t experience life staying warm on the sofa. To be out solo can be very lonely at times, despite the other cyclists we are all alone. Everything here is huge, the cars, the houses, the landscape, the mountains. The vastness of Montana has really made me feel small. It’s beautiful and lonely riding for miles on these roads. I suppose I have been home sick for about a year, since the amazing person I called home didn’t feel the same anymore, I am lucky I have my wonderful girls and family and friends I can speak to when I get internet. Who do you call home? Whomever they are give them a cuddle from all of us out here, who can’t give that cuddle to our loved ones we call home tonight.Read more

  • TravelerThe Great Divide
    Day 24

    Day 19-21 Grant - lima- Island Park

    August 3, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Routine. After 21 days on the road, each day, has its own routine, and it’s own little adventure. I rise at around 6am, pack up my sleeping bag, pad and put on my cycling gear. Making my breakfast of oats and coffee on my little jet boil stove. Taking a wash in the local water source or with wet wipes, then packing away the tent and loading up the bike. The first 10 miles back in the saddle is always a challenge, my whole body screaming “not again!” But I soon get used to it. Cycling through some of the most beautiful landscapes on mountain tracks to Lima was a delight. Stopping for a welcome ice pop, meeting up with fellow cyclists on route. Sharing stories (and snacks), the friendships between cyclists and hikers sharing the same route is uniquely beautiful. My “tramily” (trail family) is growing, we are now a 4. Chris, Mike, kari and myself. Many of the towns we pass through have populations of less than 200. For me it’s like being dropped back in time to a 1950’s cowboy movie. I love it! Although the campsite at Lima next to the highway with the gale force winds made for a rough night. Each night I set up the tent again and if I am lucky there is a local place to eat. If not I eat one of my freeze dried meals. Peddling to Island park was a tough couple of days off grid. My body was tired and the roads were unforgiving. In parts the road was so rough, hilly and rocky, with washboard surfaces it sliced Mike’s back tyre. Luckily Chris was a dab hand with glue and a patch! Lacking any shade we set up my tarp to share lunch together. Moments like this make it all worth while. Sitting in absolute beauty with like minded friends sharing peanut butter wraps and skittles! Crossing the boarder from Montana into Idaho felt like a milestone. The weather has taken a turn for the worst. So far we have been lucky with sunshine and blue skies. Today storms hit and it’s raining heavily, three days of bad weather in the local area is forecast with localised flooding. After the rain there will be sun, there is life after the pain. Some people cycle in the rain, others get wet. Decisions are to be made on the next steps. Watch this space!Read more

  • TravelerThe Great Divide
    11
    Day 26

    Day 22-24 island Park - Lava Mountain

    August 5, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌩️ 16 °C

    Rest days and rainy days in Yellowstone! So many people on the journey get obsessed with getting to the next point, however when the rain sets in it makes for tough and sometimes miserable times on a bike. A friend told me of waking up floating in his tent the morning due to the rain. When the thunderstorm and torrential rains set in, it was not pleasant. I managed to get to island park and I decided this was the time to take a rest day. I booking into a nice hotel, a bathroom, shower, toilet, fresh water and towels, then taking a hot tub felt like such a luxury. The rain was set to be in for the next few days. The “official” GDMBR route doesn’t go through any of Yellowstone national park, (3,472 square miles or 2,221,766 acres of it). So for me the rain seemed like an excellent opportunity to take a rest day and discover. A wonderful trail angel, Matt offered us all a free room in his hotel and to take us through Yellowstone park the next day. What an experience. I got to see “old Faithful” guizer, but not too much wildlife. Arriving in Colter Bay 2 other very wet riders joined our group and between us we rented a cabin in the woods. We ate exchanged stories and played games. The company on this trip has really made it a special experience. The next day we all headed off into the Grand Tetons national park. Wow! Seeing lava mountain after a 13 mile constant climb was amazing. The castle like striated rock formation, towering above me, just like the postcards I remembered seeing. It was here in front of me. Sometimes following stepping off the route that you think is planned for you can bring about unexpected and pleasant surprises. Don’t be afraid to venture into the unknown or push the boundaries of societal norms, you may be surprised by the outcome.Read more

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