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The Great Divide

July - August 2023
The route is approximately 2,700 miles long and with over 200,000 feet (60,960 meters) of elevation gain and loss. Starting in Banff, Canada, finishing is New Mexico. I will be attempting this solo with everything I need on my bike. Read more
  • 17footprints
  • 3countries
  • 48days
  • 288photos
  • 32videos
  • 11.1kkilometers
  • 7.0kkilometers
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  • TravelerThe Great Divide
    Day 47

    Santa Fe

    August 26, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    That’s all for this adventure. I happily made it to Santa
    Fe, New Mexico. The last 20 miles felt like an eternity. Facing the dreaded headwinds slowing me down to a snails pace. As I checked into the hotel I was again bowled over by the kindness of the staff. On hearing of my journey they upgraded my room and gave me free drinks tokens for the bar! Sat in the plaza in Santa Fe listening to a live band, I was reflecting back on the last six weeks in the saddle with a huge celebratiory drink, shared with new friends. There have been many amazing highs and some melancholy lows. As I say a sad good by to the Rockies I will definitely miss their magical beauty. One thing I have learnt is that missing something or someone doesn’t mean you made the wrong decision in letting them go, it doesn’t mean that deep down you are confused or unsure, or that those feeling were misplaced. It means what you experienced was real, so it makes sense to miss it. But the sadness does eventually pass and hurt does eventually heal, new places and things will take their place and someday soon your heart will become full again. If you ever get chance, go alone, walk, cycle or travel alone, just for a little while, then go do it. Learn who you are when the world isn’t demanding from you. A friend said to me “most people go to the cinema or for a meal alone, but not you!” For me the Rocky mountains were calling from a young age. Most people only know how to be, if someone is stood beside them, never getting the opportunity to walk alone, even for a little while, never realising that it is actually a gift that can change your life. Calmness is mastery and self control is strength. As I head into my next chapter, I will be taking the Pasific trail highway up Route 1. Starting in Las Vagas after meeting my daughter and heading north, up the coast to Seattle. Learning to surf and enjoying all the delights that coastal life has to offer. This next chapter has more to do with what I am choosing to grow, rather than what I am letting go of. I have learnt to embrace change and loosen up my sense of identity, allowing myself to walk a new path, wholeheartedly embracing the present and moving on. I am a Bad Ass, that cycled solo through America. I met some people that will remain life long friends, places that will remain in my memories for ever and realised that you will never change other peoples opinions of you. You can only control your own life by each of your actions. Hopefully I have inspired you to get out, be active, venture into the unknown, it is really not as scary you believe it to be. We are all stronger than we think, if only we give ourselves the chance to prove it.Read more

  • TravelerThe Great Divide
    Day 44

    Day 43-45 Indianna pass to Ojo

    August 23, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Crossing the New Mexico boarder and I am into my 7th and final state of the trip. The end is in sight. I have never been one to follow the flock, or the path that society dictates is “correct”. Sat at a little town called Platoro I realised I have done this route my way from the start. I have laughed, sobbed, found alternatives when our group was in a pickle, survived solo, struggled up passes and actually managed not to come off the bike once, which anyone who has cycled with me on a mtb knows this in itself is an achievement. Hurricane Hillary is currently sweeping across the west coast, causing severe rain on the south of the route and potentially could make the New Mexico dessert impassable by bike. Sat on a veranda with a cold beer given to me by the owner Nick and chatting to a fellow hippy rider “or die” I started to realise what I was about to accomplish. I was being called “Bad Ass” it made me a little embarrassed as I just see myself as a regular mum of two, getting up each day for a bike ride. My daughter had planned to be in US at the end of the month and one thing this trip has taught me is people, family and those closest to you are all that really matter in life. Time spent with them. So I decided once I cross the New Mexico boarder I would head to Santa Fe and that would be the end of my biking journey. Meeting my daughter is too important to miss. I will have achieved what I set out to do and cycled across America. Overcome mental and physical challenges everyday, and decided I will write that book!Read more

  • TravelerThe Great Divide
    Day 41

    Day 40-43 Salida - Indianna Pass

    August 20, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    You have to get to a point where your mood and direction doesn’t shift based on the actions of someone else. I left Salida with a renewed determination to get to New Mexico. The next climb was a monster, the highest and toughest on the whole route. Indianna Pass, standing at an impressive 11,958 ft above sea level in the Rio Grande National Forest, Colorado, the road to the summit is completely unpaved. The road is pretty steep but not impossible. You know those dreams where you can’t run and it seems like you are in quick sand?, that is how it felt at times. I was looking at the road thinking this should not feel this hard. When I eventually did reached the top, it was above the tree line, it didn’t look as if I was at the top of a mountain, more like I had arrived at a golf course surrounded by mountains. Instead of immediately descending, I wanted to spend the night at the summit under the stars, but the wind was at 20mph, Undeterred I set up my tent in a place to try to avoid the high winds. Making my dinner on my little stove then hanging the rest of my food in a tree so the bears didn’t eat it, I felt a sense of achievement for continuing on and excitement for the night that lay ahead. Settling down for the evening, a huge white Pyrenean sheep dog came bounding over. These dogs are raised with the sheep to protect them from predators, so they can be notoriously vicious. This boy however just wanted a love. He sat outside my tent protecting me like one of this flock all night. The stars that night were incredible, totally no light pollution and sleeping under the Milky Way. By far the best and cheapest hotel I have ever stayed in. And so for the decent and onwards to Platero I go and New Mexico here I come.Read more

  • TravelerThe Great Divide
    Day 39

    Day 35-39 Steamboat Springs - Salida

    August 18, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Hit a brick wall. Exhausted physically, mentally and emotionally, seriously considered quitting. Leaving Steamboat was sad but the trail was calling. The trail and the climb up to Peaks pass was amazing, both the scenery and the gradual incline on picturesque roads. Over the pass and due to the storms a few days earlier, all the rivers were all running very muddy, so it made filtering a little dubious. I stopped and asked a man putting a fence in a field where the nearest water supply was, he said we were welcome to go to his ranch for water and an emergency beer if we wanted. Whilst I was cycling with my amigo Mike we agreed and followed him up a 2 mile drive to his ranch. Sat on the veranda drinking cold beer out of the mid day sun was a great welcome unplanned detour. After an hour of drinking and chilling out, we headed to Kremling our next stop over. Messages from home made me super emotional, I tried to put things out of my mind, but sometimes 8 hours in the saddle can make the mind can work over time. The next two days from Kremling to Silverthorn then to Hartsel were an emotional overload for me. Too much reflection on the past, not enough living in the present. Both the road, the climbs, the head wind and my thoughts were playing heavy. Camping by a dumpster in Hartsel I called my mum and a few close friends, who put my hat back on straight. Headed to Salida I has a fresh mind, but not fresh legs. The road was tough, washboard, muddy, hilly with a strong headwind that made 50 miles seem like an eternity. Speaking to new friends that I have made on the route, I realised that the path you think is mapped out for you isn’t always the best one. A deviation or what the universe presents to you, often unplanned could be a pleasant surprise. The rest of the trip may not take the planned GDMBR route, but it will certainly be an adventure. Watch this space.Read more

  • TravelerThe Great Divide
    1
    Day 35

    Day 31-34 Rawlins to steamboat springs

    August 14, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Time to let go and let my hair down. Leaving the Basin, I headed into and quickly out of Rawlins. Not one of the nicer places the route passes through. Sadly it was a concrete highway in and out of the run down town nicknamed “the prison”. My next planned stop was the famous Brush Mountain Lodge, It was too far to get to in one push so a night wild camping was on the cards, which proved to be quite the challenge. I made a fire and ate dinner watching the sky turn red, as soon as I got into the tent the thunderstorm started to rumble. All night it rained with lightning. When I did finally fall asleep I woke early thinking I was in a swimming pool in Spain!. No such luck, the amount of rain meant my tent leaked. Getting to Brush mountain lodge after waking up wet was like arriving at an oasis. Kristin, the host totally makes the place, it’s so chilled sitting on the veranda with a cold soda, chatting chains, seats and tyres! The following day I arrived in Steamboat. An amazing, buzzing little ski town, so beautiful I decide to take a zero day and really enjoy it. After the morning reading by the river, I visited the spa for a well needed manicure and pedicure, then off to the hot springs for a soak and a massage. (My idea of a day off!) Whilst walking through town to the Hot-springs, I noticed a sign saying free line dancing classes that night. Why not I thought to myself, when in Rome! Fully fresh and feeling like a new woman I headed to the bar. It’s an odd feeling going into a bar alone as a single woman, but I really fancied the line dancing. As soon as I entered and people heard the British accent and I soon made some new friends, lots of cowboys and girls. The atmosphere was amazing. It was 1am before the dancing stopped and the bar threw the remaining few of us out. Spending the night being swung round, and dancing with heel kicking, Stetson wearing, tall cowboys was so much fun. Was it because that day I had made the conscious decision to let go and move on, or was it the pamper day, personally I believe if you feel good then your exude confidence, so perhaps a combination of both. Either way I haven’t laughed like that in a long time. Enjoy the video…..Read more

  • TravelerThe Great Divide
    1
    Day 32

    Day 29 - 30 The Basin

    August 11, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Days like these are why we ride. Leaving the comfort of Wild Bills Cozy Cabin after an amazing home cooked breakfast by Miss Carmella, I felt ready for the Basin. It is advised not to cross the Basin alone in case of any issues. I had planned to cross with Mike and Steve who rolled in late last night. Setting off with a full camel bag and an additional 2 litres of water, the weather was perfect. Blue skies and a tail wind. I felt like I was flying along the track with the butterflies and dragon flies fluttering along beside me. The scenery was spectacular, table top mountain ranges, with striations of yellow, orange and purple. It was very green and there was lots of wild sage, amongst yellow and purple flowers, as far as the eye could see. The track in front of me seemed to never end, every summit or corner the trail just continued. About 5 miles into the Basin I got a flat front tyre. Thankfully my squidgy inner tubes in my “tubeless tires” meant a quick pump up and I was back riding. I had already decided to spend two days in the basin wanting to taking advantage of sleeping out under the stars. Finding the perfect spot high on a ridge we pitched our tents. The wind soon calmed down, leaving us with the most wonderful sunset to eat dinner, a freeze dried meal of Pad Thai, even that tasted good! Setting my alarm for 1am I crawled into my tent exhausted, with a massive smile on my face. These are the days we cycle for. When the alarm went off I jumped out of the tent, the sky was clear with no moon, perfect to see the stars, out in full. With no ambient light and nothing and no one anywhere to be seen, I could see two strands of the milky way. It was so clear and appeared almost close enough to touch. I saw a shooting star, made a wish that the pain of heartbreak would finally disappear and promised myself that tears will now be replaced with more days and memories like this. Blissful real life with truth and beauty.Read more

  • TravelerThe Great Divide
    Day 29

    Day 25-28 Lava Mountain to Atlantic City

    August 8, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Leaving Lava mountain and two more of our group head out solo, maybe we will catch up further down the road, who knows. Life on the trail is pretty transient. People cross your path for a day, others weeks, some a few minutes just to say hi, much the same as life. Each with a lesson to learn from. I am a “through biker”doing the complete trail, headed south bound (known as SOBO) hoping to reach New Mexico, others are North bound (NOBO) heading up to Banff. Others are section riders, each with their own purpose and reasons for being on the trail. Non of us ever really taking note of the day of the week, just the weather and the next climb ahead of us, enjoying the present moments we share. After the storms I took the Wild River route to Landers, going over the Chief Washakie trail. It was absolutely stunning, passing through red canyon pass. In total for the last three days I have climbed nearly 9000 feet and only covered 155 miles. The hills, headwind and rain make cycling days long and hard. When we reached Landers, it was time to replace both of my tyres, my glasses, helmet, and cycling shorts. Then one of the amigos got sick with food poisoning, halting his journey for a few days. I pushing on to Atlantic City. It was an all seasons day, setting off in the sun, finishing in the rain at Wild Bills place. The town is a dirt track town and Bill has 10 cabins with wood burners. Perfect for drying off. Tomorrow I start The Great Divide Basin, an area of land in the Red Desert of Wyoming where none of the water falling as rain to the ground drains into any ocean, directly or indirectly. With no habitants or resupply places and two limited water sources its 135km of baron landscape, making it one of the most treacherous parts of the journey. Currently I am tucked up in bed, dry and warm, watching the fire. Reflecting on the journey and my life so far, those who remain constant and those who have passed through, those who are temporary and those who have lessons to teach me. Maybe some paths will cross again in the future and some will stay longer than expected. Who knows. I will enjoy the moments and the time we have. I will never have this day again, only the memories of it.Read more

  • TravelerThe Great Divide
    11
    Day 26

    Day 22-24 island Park - Lava Mountain

    August 5, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌩️ 16 °C

    Rest days and rainy days in Yellowstone! So many people on the journey get obsessed with getting to the next point, however when the rain sets in it makes for tough and sometimes miserable times on a bike. A friend told me of waking up floating in his tent the morning due to the rain. When the thunderstorm and torrential rains set in, it was not pleasant. I managed to get to island park and I decided this was the time to take a rest day. I booking into a nice hotel, a bathroom, shower, toilet, fresh water and towels, then taking a hot tub felt like such a luxury. The rain was set to be in for the next few days. The “official” GDMBR route doesn’t go through any of Yellowstone national park, (3,472 square miles or 2,221,766 acres of it). So for me the rain seemed like an excellent opportunity to take a rest day and discover. A wonderful trail angel, Matt offered us all a free room in his hotel and to take us through Yellowstone park the next day. What an experience. I got to see “old Faithful” guizer, but not too much wildlife. Arriving in Colter Bay 2 other very wet riders joined our group and between us we rented a cabin in the woods. We ate exchanged stories and played games. The company on this trip has really made it a special experience. The next day we all headed off into the Grand Tetons national park. Wow! Seeing lava mountain after a 13 mile constant climb was amazing. The castle like striated rock formation, towering above me, just like the postcards I remembered seeing. It was here in front of me. Sometimes following stepping off the route that you think is planned for you can bring about unexpected and pleasant surprises. Don’t be afraid to venture into the unknown or push the boundaries of societal norms, you may be surprised by the outcome.Read more

  • TravelerThe Great Divide
    Day 24

    Day 19-21 Grant - lima- Island Park

    August 3, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Routine. After 21 days on the road, each day, has its own routine, and it’s own little adventure. I rise at around 6am, pack up my sleeping bag, pad and put on my cycling gear. Making my breakfast of oats and coffee on my little jet boil stove. Taking a wash in the local water source or with wet wipes, then packing away the tent and loading up the bike. The first 10 miles back in the saddle is always a challenge, my whole body screaming “not again!” But I soon get used to it. Cycling through some of the most beautiful landscapes on mountain tracks to Lima was a delight. Stopping for a welcome ice pop, meeting up with fellow cyclists on route. Sharing stories (and snacks), the friendships between cyclists and hikers sharing the same route is uniquely beautiful. My “tramily” (trail family) is growing, we are now a 4. Chris, Mike, kari and myself. Many of the towns we pass through have populations of less than 200. For me it’s like being dropped back in time to a 1950’s cowboy movie. I love it! Although the campsite at Lima next to the highway with the gale force winds made for a rough night. Each night I set up the tent again and if I am lucky there is a local place to eat. If not I eat one of my freeze dried meals. Peddling to Island park was a tough couple of days off grid. My body was tired and the roads were unforgiving. In parts the road was so rough, hilly and rocky, with washboard surfaces it sliced Mike’s back tyre. Luckily Chris was a dab hand with glue and a patch! Lacking any shade we set up my tarp to share lunch together. Moments like this make it all worth while. Sitting in absolute beauty with like minded friends sharing peanut butter wraps and skittles! Crossing the boarder from Montana into Idaho felt like a milestone. The weather has taken a turn for the worst. So far we have been lucky with sunshine and blue skies. Today storms hit and it’s raining heavily, three days of bad weather in the local area is forecast with localised flooding. After the rain there will be sun, there is life after the pain. Some people cycle in the rain, others get wet. Decisions are to be made on the next steps. Watch this space!Read more

  • TravelerThe Great Divide
    Day 20

    Day 16-18 Helena - Grant

    July 30, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Home. In the last three days I have ridden over 300km and climbed over 8000ft, (no wonder my backside is sore again!), passing some amazing homes and getting my thoughts wandering to the meaning of home. Travelling from Helena to Grant, through Butte and Wise River, I have seen some different places where people live. Canada and north Montana had Mansions by lakes and exclusive log cabins in the woods, as we travel further south it’s RV’s, huts, wood houses, ranches and communes, all places where people have chosen to make their home. Home for me has always been a person, not a place Whether for you home is a person or physical building, one thing most of us experience in life is a change in one or the other. I have been on trail for three weeks now and it’s interesting to see how riders are reacting to being away from their homes and loved ones. Many are home sick, cutting their journey short due to work commitments or the longing of home. It’s a horrible feeling missing home, that person/place of warmth, comfort, where you feel loved and safe. But you don’t experience life staying warm on the sofa. To be out solo can be very lonely at times, despite the other cyclists we are all alone. Everything here is huge, the cars, the houses, the landscape, the mountains. The vastness of Montana has really made me feel small. It’s beautiful and lonely riding for miles on these roads. I suppose I have been home sick for about a year, since the amazing person I called home didn’t feel the same anymore, I am lucky I have my wonderful girls and family and friends I can speak to when I get internet. Who do you call home? Whomever they are give them a cuddle from all of us out here, who can’t give that cuddle to our loved ones we call home tonight.Read more

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